Happy Christmas from Fez

The View From Fez wishes all our readers around the world a peaceful and happy Christmas

May it be a time of sharing and happiness

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Moroccans Celebrating Christmas? - Opinion

In the West the  celebration of Christmas has become mired in confusion and commercialism and that "spirit of Christmas" has reached Morocco. While many are embracing some aspects, for other Moroccans the festival is an anathema  

Christmas time for a young Moroccan in Fez

"We don't need Christmas in Morocco," one Moroccan Riad owner told The View from Fez, 'In fact a lot of my guests say they are coming to Morocco to escape what they call the "Christmas madness". One European woman said that there were Christmas commercials on TV way back in the beginning of November!"

Ask many tourists arriving in Morocco at the moment and they will tell you that they wanted to get away from the commercial hype and secular "celebrations" of Christmas. In England, USA, Australia and in many European countries, the Christmas season gets under way weeks before the actual date and its biggest impact is on the national economies and personal credit cards.

For devout Christians, Christmas can be observed in simple ways, but each year it becomes more and more secular and divorced from its roots. Sadly, it is this style of Christmas that has arrived in Morocco. And, it will be no surprise that Christmas is embraced far more strongly by the younger generations. At the same time many young Moroccans are forgetting elements of their own culture.

At Christmas, Americans and British people express their love to their soul-mates, while we Moroccans underestimate the value of love in our human relations - Omar Bihmidine

In many respects Morocco is following the same path as the early Americans version of the festival  F.W. Woolworth the supermarket king quickly saw the commercial possibilities in importing Christmas ornaments from Germany where, he reported, they were “made by the very poorest class.”

Tinsel, toys, candleholders, candles, candies, garlands and wooden ornaments found ready markets. Louis Prang, a German immigrant and the inventor of a chromolithography process, presided over a workforce of hundreds of young women in Massachusetts who hand-coloured Christmas cards - elegant new greetings intended to be sent cheaply to family and friends everywhere. Department stores, novel emporia that tantalised Americans with goods in every size and quality, became cathedrals of commerce, important suppliers of the gifts necessary to take home for family and friends.

Tinsel, toys, candleholders, candles, candies, garlands on sale in Morocco

By the late 19th century, Christmas ruled over two intertwined domains: the private and public. The lights, sounds and sentiment that symbolised and celebrated home and family had moved outward into public streets and stores. There are now street decorations in some parts of Morocco.

A Marrakech mall

The media has always loved Christmas with its countless business opportunities. When Godey’s Lady’s Book, the most widely read magazine in the nation at the time, published an image of a family gathered around a small tree set atop a table, the idea of a Christmas tree soared in popularity. Woodsmen started heading into the forests each December to cut evergreens to sell on street corners.

Since the celebration focuses on the secular aspects of Jesus (PBUH), some conservative Muslims frown upon the act of celebrating Christmas, arguing that is a sort of “bid3a”, a fad that has not been taught by Prophet Mohamed (PBUH).

Most modern Moroccans do not have this attitude. Yet opinions vary widely. Some say that Christmas is an occasion for them to greet their Christian friends. Others see it as a way of showing tolerance, while others are less than impressed with the commercialisation and also reject it on cultural and religious grounds, saying that Christmas does not represent Moroccan Islamic culture and celebrating it is synonymous with blindly adopting others’ lifestyles and cultural aspects.

Writing for Morocco World News a couple of years ago, Omar Bihmidine, an English teacher from Sidi Ifni, made an interesting observation. "Moroccans wonder why they do not celebrate this well-deserved holiday, given that it builds more friendship and consolidates ties. One of the much-cherished characteristics of Christmas is that people celebrating it exchanging wishes, gifts, and keepsakes. In response to conservative Muslims, some Moroccans explain that romance which Moroccan culture nowadays lacks is a seminal feature of Christmas. At Christmas, Americans and British people express their love to their soul-mates, while we Moroccans underestimate the value of love in our human relations." 

A number of Muslim scholars decree that Muslims must not go astray by imitating Christians with regard to their celebrations. Hence, many Moroccans do not celebrate it, particularly because of the secular nature of the celebration and its allusion to the Nativity of Jesus. Some other Moroccans, the intelligentsia in particular, believe that as long as Americans wish Moroccans Happy Eid or Ramadan, it is incumbent to give our own sincere greetings and wish them “Merry Christmas” in return.

In Islam, Muslims are supposedly not allowed to wish “Merry Christmas.” But, some Moroccan Muslims believe that as a way of evincing our understanding of others’ cultures, there is no harm in sharing with Americans or the British their happiness. What is totally disapproved among Moroccans is blind emulation by today’s Moroccan youth who celebrate Christmas without having the slightest idea of what it is about. It is also a pity that some Moroccan youth are more enthusiastic about Western celebrations than about their own.

In fact, Moroccans are still divided over celebrating Christmas. Frowning upon the adoption of others’ lifestyles while forgetting one’s own is their common denominator. At this point, I believe that Moroccans have properly extended their arms to others’ culture, especially as most Christians will not say no to uttering and reciprocating with a “Merry Christmas”. Moroccan Muslims, instead of offering you a gift, think it would simply suffice to wish you all a “Happy Christmas.”

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Festive Fez Food

A few places remain at the best restaurants to eat in Fez on Christmas Day and New Year's Eve. See them listed in alphabetical order, below. But be quick!

Dar Roumana

Fireside at Dar Roumana

Celebrate the festive season at Dar Roumana in an atmosphere of cosy luxury. Blending the exotic beauty of a Moroccan courtyard, with elements from home such as a roaring open fire, mulled wine and the scent of pine from a real Christmas tree, you will have the best of both worlds.

On offer are set-six course menus for 600 dh, crafted from the best available local ingredients by skilled French chef Vincent. Dishes on Christmas Day include porcini soup with argan oil and crispy bacon; a choice of John Dory fish or seared lamb tenderloin for mains and dark chocolate pudding for dessert.

The menu on New Year's Eve includes homemade porcini ravioli, sea bream with pea puree and langustine bisque, seared lamb tenderloin, with bitter chocolate tart for dessert.

The main dining room at Dar Roumana

Enhancing the ambience will be a six-member Moroccan band led by a talented oud player. Be quick, they are almost fully booked for Christmas Day and New Year's Eve.

Contact: 06 60 29 04 04 or info@darroumana.com.

Fez Cafe

Sparkling ambiance at Fez Cafe

The colourful and cosy Fez Cafe at Jardin des Biehn is putting on a delicious spread for Christmas Day and New Year's Eve.

Their five course Christmas Day menu includes grilled scallops on a bed of artichokes and argan oil; duck confit, mille-feuilles of fish and cardoons with anchovy and shrimp juice, with a selection of Christmas desserts.

The New Year's Eve menu includes a glass of champagne, foie gras and fig compote with vanilla and a glass of port, mushroom and royal shrimp risotto; lamb shank with dried fruit, with chocolate cake for dessert.

 Both menus are 759 dirhams, with soft drinks included. (Wine is available at an additional cost.) Musical ambience will be provided an oud and a flute player.

Contact: 0664647679 or contact@jardindesbiehn.com

Riad Karawan

The comfortable and stylish terrace of Riad Karawan 

The latest luxury riad hotel to open in the Andalous quarter, Riad Karawan is open for scrumptious Sunday brunch and afternoon teas during the week. From December 25, they will be open for lunch on their terrace, which has a spectacular view over the Medina, the Ottoman-inspired courtyard, or in their romantic dining room. Their lunch menu includes foie gras; filet of duck; filet of St Pierre or whatever type of fish is best in the market, and a dessert course. Two courses with a glass of wine cost 175 dh and three courses with a glass of wine cost 250 dirhams.

Contact: 05 35 63 78 78 or karawanriad@gmail.com

The restaurant at Riad Karawan

Maison Moi Anan

Tranquility and great Thai food

The best Thai food in town - indeed many towns - is at the recently opened Maison Moi Anan off the Talaa Kbira, where designer and Thai chef extraordinare, Anan, cooks up a storm. Using the freshest of local ingredients, supplemented by imported herbs and spices, the subtle and authentic blend of flavours is an unexpected but exciting experience to find in the Fez Medina.

Anan's eight course Christmas Day menu includes "Sleeping Beauty shrimp, with snowman scallops", duck and pineapple red curry, and fish of the day with aubegine in green curry. The set menu is 400 dirhams, excluding wine.

Contact: 06 28 88 79 09 or 05 35 63 57 13 or anan_sorsutham@yahoo.com

Resto 7

Elegance and fine food at Resto 7

The food renaissance at Restaurant Numero 7, (commonly referred to as "Resto 7"), has been brought about by an innovative program of chef's residencies. The most recent team to grace the kitchen are Harry Cummins, from England, and Laura Vidal, from Canada, who are running the restaurant until the end of January. Winning accolades for their pop-up restaurants at numerous cities around the globe, the pair offer creative, unexpected and mouth-watering menus of an extraordinarily high standard.

For Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, their "beldi market market tasting menu" (determined by available ingredients), will be 675 dirhams, and their New Year's Eve and New Year's Day menu will be 775 dirhams. And do try sommelier Laura's divine vermouth, flavoured with local fruits and spices.

Contact: 06 69 42 77 849 or reservationsat7@gmail.com

The Ruined Garden

Intimate atmosphere and great food at The Ruined Garden

Over winter, the atmosphere of the The Ruined Garden restaurant is enhanced by the braziers and cosy fireplace. As well as their regular lunch time offerings, such as double-fried doughnut filled with home-smoked salmon and egg, served with warm Moroccan salads, over the Christmas period they also have the Fassi celebratory dish of Mechoui - seven hour slow cooked lamb, stuffed with plums or apricots and spices. This needs to be ordered one day in advance.

They are also holding a New Years Eve function. A welcome cocktail, four course dinner and a
glass of sparkling wine at midnight is 660 dirhams, excluding wine. There will be drums and trumpets, and pots and pans to herald in the New Year.

Contact: 06 49 19 14 10 or riadandgarden@gmail.com

... and Seasons Greetings from The View from Fez! 

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