Favourite Fez Restaurants Reopen

Last weekend the much loved restaurants, Fez Cafe and The Ruined Garden, reopened for the first time since March 2020 

Locals and visitors turned out to celebrate. The garden section of Fez Cafe restaurant was fully booked, and it was clear to see enjoyment and relief that the social life of the city is slowly returning to a semblance of normal. 

"It's a really happy time," said one of the owners, Paul Biehn. "I'm working, and it's exciting and creative. Plus, finally, I am meeting many new people, and seeing old friends." The hotel on the same site, Jardin des Biehn, has also reopened. 

"For everybody it has been a struggle", said Paul. "Plus my father left us in May last year."

Paul's late father, the renowned collector and author, Michel Biehn, was a significant presence at Fez Cafe, and could usually be seen welcoming guests and dining there. Paul's mother, Catherine, continues the family tradition. 

"I am very happy to keep this place alive," said Paul. "To make it more my own somehow; because my father was a very big personality. But it's not about me, it's about this place. I love to do this job: to take care of this place, because it's so big and complex and there is no end. It's kind of fun." 

A new development is that Paul is now working in the kitchen. "I love desserts, and also I try to add more vegetarian dishes...Our menu is always evolving."  

Both Fez Cafe and The Ruined Garden are set in beautiful gardens, which have become more luxuriant while the doors have been closed to the public. 

The Ruined Garden, behind Riad Idrissy in Sidi Ahmed Chaoui, is again offering its Moroccan menu with a contemporary twist, with drinks including fresh pomegranate juice. The staff greeted me enthusiastically, pleased to see a familiar face after such a long period of inactivity. "It feels good to be back," said one of the waiters. And indeed it did. 

Fez Cafe is open daily for lunch at 1.30 pm and dinner at 6.30 pm. (Current curfew is at 11 pm.)

Location: 13 Akbat Sbaa, Douh, Fez Medina.  

Reservations: +212 (0) 535 635 031 or +212 (0)6 62 59 90 54. Riad +212 (0)6 64 64 76 79. 

Website: www.jardindesbiehn.com

The Ruined Garden is open daily for lunch from 1 pm, drinks from 5 pm and dinner from 6 pm. 

Location: Behind Riad Idrissy, in Sidi Ahmed Chaoui, Fez Medina. 

Reservations: +212 (0)643 230 045   

Website: https://ruinedgarden.com

Photography and story: Suzanna Clarke

SHARE THIS!

Morocco to Close Restaurants, Cafes Monday Evening

A lot of Moroccans are going to be experiencing culture shock! The Ministry of Interior has informed citizens that restaurants and coffee shops will close in Morocco starting at 6 p.m. today until further notice.

Cafes are already very quiet in Fez Medina

The decision is the latest in a series of preventive measures to limit the spread of the novel coronavirus, COVID-19.

In addition to restaurants and coffeeshops, public hamams (traditional baths), movie theatres, clubs, gyms, sports stadiums, and theatres will also close until further notice.

Mosques to close

Morocco has also decided to close all mosques throughout Morocco amid the mounting fears of the spread of the Coronavirus.

The Academic Authority for Fatwa in the Supreme Scientific Council announced their decision to close all mosques amid the spread of the novel coronavirus (COVID-19) starting today.

The decision does not only affect Friday prayers but all the five daily prayers, the statement said.

Latest figures
Health authorities in Morocco confirmed the country’s 29th case of the novel coronavirus (COVID-19) today.

The ministry said that approximately 135 people tested negative for the virus in Morocco.

The number of positive cases jumped from 18 on Saturday, March 14, to 28 on Sunday, leaving people in the country anxious about a possible state of emergency.

SHARE THIS!

An App For Visitors to Fez

Fez: A geolocation application to boost tourism

The Regional Tourism Council (CRT) in Fez has just launched a geolocation application. "Downloadable from App store, this tool can locate restaurants, travel agencies, hotels, and craft locations," says Yassir Jawhar, delegate chairman of the CRT.

According to Yassir Jawhar, "tourists could easily go to geolocated locations, give their opinion, buy a service or a product at the lowest cost". "Through this application, the CRT is allied with the objectives of digitalisation launched by the ONMT," adds Jawhar.

Note that an interactive site and a new tourist guide of Fez are being finalised. There is a press trip planned for early March, which will promote the new facets of the destination.

SHARE THIS!

Drinking Water in Morocco - Bottle or Tap?

Should you drink bottled or tap water? Research shows: in six years, bottled water consumption has doubled in Morocco. Bottled water is found to be contaminated with plastic particles and tap water in Fez is perfectly safe to drink

The bottled water market is growing for several reasons. First, there is a change in the consumption habits of Moroccans increasingly aware of a healthy and balanced diet. Amongst tourists there is a longstanding misconception about Morocco's water purity. Owners of some accommodation riads have expressed concern at the amount of plastic waste generated by the use of bottled water and are pointing out to visitors that tap water is safe.

The development of leisure and travel has led to an increased consumption of coffee at hotels and restaurants. Operators in the sector have worked to raise awareness of the importance of consumption of natural mineral waters.

The packaging has also evolved, so the last few years have seen the launch of flavored water, sport caps, 5 litre bottles, bottles for water fountains, in addition to glass packaging.

The emergence of brands of table water sold at significantly lower prices reinforces the demand of certain consumers whose buying orientation is based on price. The market share of foreign brands remains very modest because of their relatively high selling price.

Bottled water VS tap water

According to a survey conducted by Marketphone, a subsidiary of Sunergia and whose results were published on November 7, 17% of Moroccans consume exclusively or mostly bottled water against 83% who opt for tap water. 6% of the population consume only bottled water, 11% consume it most often while 20% often consume tap water and 63% consume only tap water.

Despite the recent boycott, Moroccans have a preference for the products of the Oulmès Mineral Water Company, says the Sunergia study. According to the survey, 62% of respondents say they consume exclusively or most often bottled water from the company.

It appears that the favorite brands of Moroccans, after the products of Mineral Waters of Oulmes, are Ain Saiss and Sidi Hrazem . Despite the boycott, the structure of the sector in terms of market share has not changed, ensures the investigation.

"Whatever the purchasing power or socio-professional situation, today bottled water is not a luxury product but clearly a consumer product," the study concludes.

"As a result, the competition promises to be tough between the giants of the sector in the years to come", warn the authors of the survey, believing that these companies "will have to be innovative to stand out and reach consumers with good profiles.

In Fez there is good news for those concerned about the overuse of bottled water. The View From Fez recently had Fez tap water tested and the results are encouraging.

And it was not just in the Fez Medina. Rose Button had the water in Moulay Idriss tested and found the tap water to be fine to drink.

And for those on the coast?  Morocco’s Head of Government, Saad Eddine El Othmani, has assured consumers that water produced from Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdellah Dam in Rabat is safe to drink.

“You are in good hands when it comes to drinking water,” he said. The Bouregreg water facility supplies the populations of Rabat, Sale, Temara, Mohammadia and Casablanca.

El Othmani pointed out that: “All workers are strictly prohibited from bringing in bottled water, since they drink the water that was treated at the station and that they have watched over its filtration themselves.”

Saad Eddine El Othmani, drinking water from Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdellah Dam 

“I can only salute the people responsible at this station because they are invisible soldiers, unknown to the public, that conduct important patriotic work and take all the precautions to insure the security, safety, and health of the citizens,” El Othmani said.

The Head of Government assured citizens that the laboratory conducts analyses that follow the standards set by the World Health Organization (WHO) in coordination with the Ministry of Health.

First opened in 1969, the Bouregreg water facility is considered the first and largest water purification station in Morocco and provides drinking water to nearly seven million citizens.

Bottled water bottles are a massive pollutant

However, there is some bad news for those preferring bottled water. 

On Wednesday results of tests on the world’s leading brands of bottled water have found that nearly all bottles contain tiny plastic particles.

Over 250 of the top bottled water brands were tested in nine countries, including Lebanon, India, and the United States, during a research project commissioned by journalism organisation Orb Media and led by Sherri Mason, a professor of chemistry at the State University of New York in Fredonia.

The most common plastic fibres found include polypropylene, nylon, and polyethylene terephthalate (PET), which are used during the industrial bottling process.

Researchers found an average of 325 plastic particles in 93 percent of bottled water samples from several brands–Aqua, Aquafina, Dasani, Evian, Nestle Pure Life, San Pellegrino–with the highest level found in a bottle of Nestle Pure Life water, registering 10,390 particles per litre.

“We found [plastic] in bottle after bottle and brand after brand. It’s not about pointing fingers at particular brands; it’s really showing that this is everywhere, that plastic has become such a pervasive material in our society, and it’s pervading water – all of these products that we consume at a very basic level,” Mason told BBC News.

The study reveals that levels of plastic fibres contained in these bottled water brands could be twice as high as those found in tap water, referring to a previous study conducted by Orb Media, which showed that plastic particles were also present in tap water.

The study also found particles in beer, honey, table salt, and seafood, as the oceans are increasingly polluted with plastic waste.

To date, the implications of ingesting these microplastics on human health is still unknown. However, after the study’s findings, the World Health Organization has now told several media outlets that it is launching its own review into the potential risks.

In better news, the African Development Bank Group (AfDB) has approved a €117 million loan to finance investment into making drinking water available in Morocco.

The project “aims to secure access to drinking water through new investments in treatment processes and drinking water supply networks” in Morocco, AfDB wrote in a statement on November 6.

The board of directors of the African Development Bank Group (AfDB) said it approved the loan on Monday, November 5. The project will target 2.5 million people in Guercif in the northeast, Zagora in the east, Al Hoceima in the north, Tangier, and Beni Mellal in central Morocco.

Mohamed El Azizi, the bank’s director-general for the North Africa region, described the bank’s contribution as “strategic.” “Guaranteeing access for all to high-quality drinking water is the prerequisite for any form of sustainable development,” El Azizi said.

The program, which plans to ensure sustainable access to drinking water, meets two of the bank’s five highest priorities: “Improve the quality of life for the people of Africa” and “Industrialize Africa.”

For Leila Farah Mokaddem, the bank’s Morocco country manager, the project “will contribute to further improving the quality of life of millions of Moroccans.” “Taken together with our investments in education, agriculture and energy, it will facilitate the emergence of new poles of development,” Mokaddem added.

The project, according to AfDB, is in line with the objectives of the National Emergency Water Sector program and relevant sustainable development goals. The project is also aligned with the priorities set in the 2016-2020 investment plan of Morocco’s National Electricity and Drinking Water Agency (ONEE).

In June, the head of ONEE in the Fez region, Mohammed Berkia, said that office is adopting projects to improve the potable water supply in Al Hoceima through 2035.

Berkia said the projects would cost an estimated MAD 714 million. The government has budgeted MAD 900 million for the project, which will launch by the end of the year.  Berkia’s statements came three weeks after King Mohammed VI instructed the government to build river and hill dams to help alleviate water scarcity in rural Morocco.

The King appointed a commission led by Head of Government Saad Eddine El Othmani to find appropriate solutions to the problem. The monarch called on the commission to establish desalination plants and to ensure sustainable water in agricultural fields.

In March 15, El Othmani announced that the government would introduce a national water plan through 2050 to solve water shortages in Morocco.

According to the AfDB, the fifty-year partnership between Morocco and the bank includes more than 160 projects and programs with a total fund of more than $10 billion. More than 80 percent of the funding has been devoted to basic infrastructure in energy, water, transport, agriculture, and social development.

SHARE THIS!

Fez For Visitors - Daytime Eating During Ramadan

Many tourists stay away from Morocco during Ramadan, saying that it is hard to find places to eat during the day. Fortunately Fez does not have that problem. But a walk through the Medina shows that while there are plenty of food and drink outlets, there are few visitors eating in public

A guesthouse breakfast

Fortunately for non-fasting visitors, the guesthouses normally serve delicious breakfasts. There are a few cafes that serve breakfast of good simple food with coffee, tea or orange juice.

A cafe breakfast

Around Batha there are plenty of cafes with no need to wait - however, even after midday they are often deserted. This is not the case in the evening when the restaurants and cafes are full of locals and tourists.

Fortunately the markets have a plentiful supply of food

And for those wanting something substantial, there is always The Ruined Garden, Cafe Clock, Eden at Palais Amani and Fez Cafe.

Cafe Clock

Ramadan is a good time to visit Fez - and you certainly won't starve!

SHARE THIS!

Breaking the Fast in Fez

Just before the cannon sounds to signal the breaking of the fast, the streets of Fez are almost completely deserted. There is a silence throughout the normally bustling Medina...

Once the cannon and the call to prayer are heard, the atmosphere changes. The streets around Batha come alive as locals and tourists fill the restaurants and break their fast.

Restaurant owners and workers find themselves eating as they work. The street restaurants soon fill up and latecomers have to wait for a vacancy before they can eat and drink.

After the first food and glasses of water or orange juice are consumed the atmosphere changes as people relax and the conversations begin. 

SHARE THIS!

World Class Water Park and Hotel Opens in Fez

The province of Moulay Yacoub, known for the virtues of its thermal water, is fast becoming a destination of attractions and recreation. Developer, Hassan Belamkaddem, has invested more than 140 million DH for the construction of a gigantic water park, "Rim Aquatique", on the road to Meknes, not far from the centre of Ras El Mae

Spread over an area of ​​6 hectares, the project includes three swimming pools, an artificial beach, 46 luxury suites, two restaurants with a capacity of 600 seats, a go-kart track, a garden, a playground, in addition to a park with trees.

"As I am originally from this province, I wanted to make a big investment to create an economic activity and offer work to young people," says Hassan Belamkaddem (pictured left). The centre provides for the creation of 500 jobs.

While the structural part is completed, the finishing of the guest rooms is in full swing. "We have imported Egyptian showers, Russian children's games and other equipment, such as water slides, from around the world. The "Rim Aquatique" project required 4 years of research, work and realisation.

"Its goal is to attract domestic and foreign tourists, "says Belamkaddem. The challenge, he says, is to build a modern recreation centre that meets international standards, especially in terms of safety. The project dedicated to families is the first in the region.

"We have a large pool, a learning pool with sledges, static waves, a play lagoon, a Jacuzzi, changing rooms, toilets, an infirmary, as well as administrative, storage and household complex," underlines the management of the project.


The opening to the public was on Saturday, May 5, 2018, a few days before the start of the summer holidays.

See more video here: Rim Aquatique

SHARE THIS!

Chinese Tourists in Morocco - Update

Following the decision in May 2016 by King Mohammed VI to exempted Chinese nationals from visa to visit the Kingdom, the Chinese began to arrive. At the time some tourism operators suggested that Morocco was not well prepared for mass Chinese tourists

In the last half of 2016 more than 40,000 Chinese tourists arrived, 300% more than in 2015. In the first half of this year, nearly 50,000 Chinese nationals visited China Kingdom, traveling mainly to Casablanca, their destination city, then to Fez and (surprisingly)  Ouarzazate.

Chinese tourists in Ouarzazate

The arrival of mass Chinese tourists is not without its problems and the country has to adapt to the demands of Chinese tourists who require, for example, Mandarin-speaking guides - a rarity in the Kingdom.

A number of travel agencies say that Morocco is not sufficiently ready to welcome these tourists in the best conditions. It is not just the lack of Mandarin speaking guides, says Hayat Jabrane, founder of Goal Voyages, and former general secretary of the National Confederation of Tourism (CNT). "Hotels need to offer Chinese menus, have Mandarin speaking staff. Even signage in the airport, and integrate Mandarin on the entry cards in Morocco and police cards in hotels."

Marketing-China claims that the Chinese "they like to discover the foreign kitchen, but prefer to eat Chinese in the morning and the evening ".

Chinese travellers have a preference for rooms equipped with wifi and a system of reception for iPod or iPhone. The quality of the food and drink also counts for the Chinese travellers who, despite their worries, are often tempted by the flavours of the countries they visit.

A hotel operator in Fes, who also asked for anonymity, told Telquel recently, " Chinese tourists are more suspicious than European tourists,  they come from so far away that it is normal that they are more anxious. We are also suspicious when traveling in Asia. They do not eat at the restaurant, sometimes they bring their own sheets, most of the time their program is organised long before they arrive. However, the most important thing is that at the end of their stay, they have the confidence to talk about it and in turn attract other Chinese tourists".

The Great Wall Chinese restaurant in Fez

Chinese businesses quickly saw opportunities and have already opened a genuine Chinese restaurant in Fez.

To identify the needs of the Chinese consumer, it is important for tour operators to understand the expectations of the visitors.  Hayat Jabrane says that " the Chinese tourist is looking for discovery, adventure, promoting heritage, culture, nature and shopping ." The lack of infrastructure around the tourist sites as well as the lack of diversity of Chinese restaurants are also problems that must be remedied. These are small details that are nevertheless very important" .

Morocco's intentions are clear: to welcome the largest number of Chinese tourists in the years to come. Asked by the 2M channel at the beginning of June 2016, Tourism Minister Lahcen Haddad said that " the Chinese market is an important market, it is a market of 130 million tourists. We want, in the long term, 5 to 10 years, to capture a million ".

From June 6 to 16, 2016, a Chinese delegation of senior Chinese travel agency officials and media from Beijing, Shanghai and Guanghzou visited the cities of Casablanca, Rabat, Marrakech, Tangiers, Chefchaouen and Fez, Along with senior officials of the ONMT.

The Chinese channel CCTV, followed by more than 700 million Chinese, has made several documentaries  featuring Morocco. In addition the Chinese news agency Xinhua, contributed greatly to the influence of the city of Ouarzazate by running several reports on the Chinese channel CCTV.

According to Hayat Jabrane, although the promotion of Morocco's destination in China by the ONMT has produced good results, it " remains insufficient compared to the number of provinces in China in which Morocco is not known at all.  Moreover, " a direct airline would be ideal, accompanied by promotions in the form of cultural events in China with significant presence of the local press.

The numbers

For the city of Casablanca, there were nearly 25,000 Chinese arrivals in the first half of 2017, for nearly 35,000 overnight stays. Fez gained more than 6,500 arrivals for more than 10,000 overnight stays, while the city of Ouarzazate totalled more than 15,000 overnight stays for arrivals exceeding 10,000 over the same period.

According to the Observatory of Morocco, 28% of Chinese tourists visit Morocco on the recommendation of relatives, while 56% trust the media.  Of these, 35% travel as a couple, 20% as a group, and 26% as a whole family. 74% of Chinese visitors say they are satisfied or very satisfied with their experience in Morocco.


SHARE THIS!

Fes Festival - Food Guide

One of the delights of the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music is the opportunity to explore the cuisine for which Morocco is justifiably famous. For visitors to Fez, here are some of our suggestions for top places to enjoy fine food. We offer seven of our favourites. If you are attending the whole festival, try one per day and you'll still have a couple of days to spare for some street food!

Moroccan food is incredibly diverse, thanks to the country’s interaction with a variety of cultures and nations over the centuries, including Amazigh (Berber), Moorish, Arab and Mediterranean influences. Spices feature extensively in Moroccan cooking and there is a centuries-old art to their careful balancing.

The Ruined Garden

The Ruined Garden is in the garden of Riad Idrissy and is a delightful, relaxed oasis. It will be opening its doors each day between 13.00 and 21.30.

The Ruined Garden is a delight

The Ruined Garden lunch menu will have will be more tapas this year and in the evening there will be the most famous Fez speciality - Pigeon B’Stella - a filo pastry pie stuffed with pigeon meat, spices, egg and toasted almonds with an orange and tomato salad and cinnamon and sugar. There will be no need to order a fixed price menu as it will be a main course dish. The Ruined Garden is still one of the few places in Fez to offer this on an a la carte menu (200 DH).

There are also a couple of dishes that are worth taking the time to order in advance.

Worthy of special mention is the slow-cooked (7 hour) lamb 'Mechwi' - 240 DH for 1 kilo (32 oz). It is a good dish to share and comes with a saffron, garlic, cumin and vegetable tagine (each extra kilo costs 180 DH).

Sephardic Saffron Chicken - 280 DH for one chicken, enough for two or three people. (Ask if you are a bigger group and need a larger bird.) This is poached with saffron, chickpeas, garlic, onion, eggs and stuffed with spiced minced beef.

Ice creams are also on the menu and to drink there is salty lemon and sprite and coke floats.

Contact: 06 49 19 14 10 or riadandgarden@gmail.com
13 Derb Idrissi, Sieje, Sidi Ahmed Chaoui. Ph 06 49 19 14 10  http://www.riadidrissy.com/

Moroccan mint makes the world's best mint tea

The Eden at Palais Amani

Gastro Pop-up in the Fez Medina - The Eden at Palais Amani. This is a boutique hotel just inside the Medina in Fez and another excellent place to eat. The Eden restaurant introduces guests to the diversity of Moroccan cuisine through the types of dishes found in Moroccan homes. The menus are revitalised with a twist of creativity and sophistication and brought to your table by their acclaimed chefs.

As part of the 23rd edition of Fez’s Sacred Music Festival, Eden will be running a three day Gastronomy Pop-Up event, in collaboration with Food and Friends.

Food and Friends are a duo - both born in Belgium; one with Italian/Indonesian roots the other Moroccan.

Carlo worked for years in Belgium, in iconic Michelin star restaurants such as Comme Chez Soi, De Slagmolen, Clos St Denis and De Bijgaarden. Noureddin has been running a hotel in Belgium with his partner. Today, Noureddin's sense of hospitality blends with Carlo's culinary talent and together they form Food and Friends.

They are passionate about high quality food from fresh and seasonal local products. Together they work on many private dining projects and are also involved in gastronomic pop-up events in Morocco and Belgium.

From the 12th to 14th May (inclusive) Food and Friends will be showcasing a delightful tasting menu available at lunch and before and after concerts.

For more information please contact Amilia Baha at salespalaisamani@gmail.com or +33 6 87 09 98 63 and for bookings please contact reservations@palaisamani.com

Cafe Clock - home of the camel burger

Cafe Clock

Over the last 10 years Cafe Clock has become a significant feature of Fez social and cultural life. It is is especially the place to head for the camel burgers. Service is efficient and the menu has something for everyone. Their coffee is particularly good. Cafe Clock is open 9am to 11pm and will have their regular events - storytelling, jamming and Sunday concerts. Workshops will also be available - Clock Kitchen, Calligraphy, Oud and henna.

Call into the Clock at 7 Derb el Magana off the Tala'a Kbira, to check out what else is happening there during the festival. https://www.facebook.com/Cafeclockfes/

Fez Cafe Restaurant 

Nestled within the grounds of the well known riad, Le Jardin des Biehn, is a surprisingly vast garden, designed in Andalusian style and encompassing both flower-lined walks and produce for the kitchen. The cafe, with its pastel coloured walls and doors open to the courtyard, is one of the most relaxed in Fez. The food drawing equally on Moroccan cuisine and that of Mediterranean France, is Fez fusion with  highlights including salmon tapenade, duck b’stella or the spiced goats cheese salad. They stock some reasonably priced local wines.

The colourful and cosy Fez Cafe at Jardin des Biehn has a gorgeous interior and also an outdoor garden setting. A great place to chill out between events.

Contact: 0664647679 or contact@jardindesbiehn.com

Nur

The opening of Nur restaurant in Fez was greeted with much excitement. For good reason. Chef Najat Kaanache presents seven courses of fine food with creativity and flair.

Nur presents fabulous food in creative ways

The Nur experience is such that it is probably best to reserve for a night when you are taking a break from the music, or heading to the Sufi performances at 11pm.

Find them at 7 Zkak Rouah in the Medina - make a reservation: phone: +212 6 94 27 78 49

Dar Roumana

Dar Roumana is a guesthouse on the north side of the medina, close to parking at Bab Guissa. it has wonderful medina views from the terrace and a great chef. Dar Roumana normally offers Fes Sacred Music Festival Special Pre-concert dinners.

Dar Roumana has a great atmosphere

Dar Roumana 30 Derb el Amer Zkak Roumane, Fes Medina  +212 660 29 04 04 (mobile) +212 535 741 637 www.darroumana.com

Maison Moi Anan

With his distinctive flair, fashion designer and chef Anan Sorsutham creates genuine Thai dishes, as if you were a guest in his home in Thailand.

Using the freshest of local ingredients, supplemented by imported herbs and spices, the subtle and authentic blend of flavours is an unexpected but exciting experience to find in the Fez Medina.

Maison Moi Anan is located in a traditional Fez house, which is tastefully decorated. On the ground floor is the boutique, where Anan’s latest fashion designs are on display. Upstairs offers a range of dining options from an elegant dining room, to a plant festooned terrace, to two intimate rooms that can be shared by up to six guests.

Find Maison Moi Anan at 30 Zkak El Ma, Chrablyen,
http://maisonmoianan.com
Tel: 06 52 49 73 91 / 05 35 63 57 13

Street Food

*STREET FOOD is good - take your pick of any of the sandwich places around Bab Boujloud and the market at the top of Tala'a Kebira. Choose your filling from the display and watch as it's cooked on the grill. For around 30 DH, you'll get half a round loaf, or a small baguette, stuffed with grilled chicken, tomatoes, onions and olives, or beef and liver, or merguez sausage. Chips or fried eggs are an optional extra. Many of the stalls also do vegetarian options with fried aubergine slices or green peppers.

*SELF-CATERERS are in for a treat with markets at the Bab Boujloud end of Tala'a Kebira and the huge market in R'cif. All sorts of meat (except pork, of course), fish and a wide array of fruit and vegetables are on display. Cheese is limited to a softish white variety wrapped in leaves - very tasty, too. You will find a wide range of recipes in The View From Fez Cookbook

*BAB BOUJLOUD: there's a wide selection of restaurants near the famous Blue Gate, from the well-known Thami's to Abdou's Restaurant Fassia, Restaurant Bouyyad, Rachid's and the Kasbah and several others. Choose one where the seat covers appeal to your sense of style (gold with large bows, polka dots or zebra stripes?) and enjoy a fairly standard range of Moroccan traditional dishes. A three-course meal with water or mint tea will set you back around 100 DH.

Feeling hungry? Then bookmark this page!

SHARE THIS!

Nur - A Fez Restaurant Review

The opening of the Nur restaurant in Fez was greeted with much excitement. For good reason. Chef Najat Kaanache presents seven courses of fine food with creativity and flare

Najat Kaanache

While there is no menu to select from, the choice is the number of courses. Having no notion of what they are makes for an interesting, if somewhat confusing, experience.  The lack of a wine list, however, is a flaw. The wine on offer turned out to be one of the very cheap Moroccan labels at a price per glass that was around the same price as a bottle in the local liquor outlets. It was not at a quality that mirrored that of the food. Another visitor was charged 300 dirhams for a bottle of Guerrouane!

On the night The View From Fez sampled the fare on offer, we opted for the four courses and were greeted with some of them being so small as to hardly be worthy of the name. The first, a tiny glass of pomegranate juice (delicious), was insignificant - we thought it was a complimentary amuse-bouche. Sadly not.

The second course was a standout - an artistically presented salad that resembled a work of art and tasted as fresh and delicious. It was (in contrast to the "first course") generous. The third course was a very small portion of salmon with an arrangement of potatoes and other vegetables. It was beautifully presented but a triumph of art over content. Unfortunately the salmon was lost, drowned beneath a sea of green sauce.

The final course, which we initially thought to be a dessert, turned out to be a a rich and tasty portion of chicken in chocolate sauce. Again, delicious, but small.

There is no doubting the quality of the food, however, being at a price point well above comparable quality restaurants such as Dar Roumana, makes it less attractive for locals who regularly dine out. Fortunately there are now many options, Hotel Sahrai, Palais Amani, The Ruined Garden, Fez Cafe, Maison Blanche, Dar Roumana, Maison Moi Anan and more.

Service was friendly but slightly confusing for mere anglophones as we were unable to discover what was on offer in advance; essential when ordering an accompanying glass of wine.  Even a chalkboard description of the menu would be an improvement. Failing that, a description of each course by the waiter so that the customer can order which courses he or she wants.

Talking to locals in Fez, they agree that the Medina needs restaurants and chefs like Najat and it is hoped that after their settling in period they offer a reasonable wine-list, and a menu which offers  more affordable options - even if slightly less artistic. In the end, food is not just to be looked at, it is to be eaten. The Fez restaurant market is very seasonal and during the quiet times, a restaurant needs solid support from the locals.

SHARE THIS!

China Awards Morocco "Best Potential Destination"

The 6th annual Global Times Forum held recently in Beijing showed that Morocco's wooing of the Chinese tourists is paying dividends.  Morocco has been named “Best Potential Destination” by the influential Chinese daily Global Times, ahead of France or Thailand

欢迎来到摩洛哥

Moroccan tourist authorities hope that the award will attract larger numbers of Chinese tourist to the Kingdom.

According to the Moroccan Office of Tourism (ONMT) the “Best Potential Destination” prize is awarded each year and takes into consideration the ease of  visa procedures, the numbers of tourists and Chinese tourists’ satisfaction, with the destination.

The big factor in the increase in Chinese tourists was the decision by King Mohammed VI to abolish visas between the two countries. As a result 42,000 Chinese tourists visited Morocco in 2016, an increase of 300%.

By the end of November 2016 arrivals from China increased sixfold following the decision to eliminate a visa requirement for Chinese tourists, despite the lack of a direct flight between the two countries.

Morocco World News reports that before the elimination of the visa, Morocco only received between 800 to 1,000 Chinese tourists monthly. In contrast, in 2016, 6,000 to 7,000 Chinese tourists visited Morocco per month, totalling  80,000. Morocco hopes to increase visits from Chinese tourists to 100,000 in 2017.

Chinese visitors to The View From Fez are increasing every month, searching for background information on Morocco. They now (surprisingly) rank in the top ten countries visiting The View From Fez! For their benefit we offer a few basics.

Getting to Morocco

There is no direct flight between China and Morocco. You can fly from Beijing to Doha, Dubai, Paris, Istanbul, Cairo, London, or Amsterdam, then transfer to a flight to Casablanca. There is a small airport in Rabat, which is used for both civil and military operations. Visitors usually get to Rabat from Casablanca, where the country's busiest airport is located, by train, minibus, cars or taxis.

Currency

The dirham is the Moroccan currency which you can purchase with dollars or euros at the local airports or banks. The Chinese yuan cannot be exchanged for dirham at local banks. Dollars and euros are also acceptable at big hotels and restaurants. Remember to convert dirham back to dollars or euros at local banks if you leave the country through Casablanca airport because there is no currency exchange service after you go through airport security.

Language

 French is a very useful language in Morocco and the second most widely spoken language after Arabic. Increasingly, well-educated young people can also speak good English.

安全旅行

SHARE THIS!

Travel Writing - Irish Times Criticised

Over the years travel writing about Morocco has improved. Gone are the stories rife with orientalist fantasy, or filled with warnings about being ripped off by unscrupulous vendors in the souks. However, the Irish Times recently ran a story by Michelle Walshe that has created a debate amongst both expats and locals

The headline - 'As a woman in Morocco you cover up, no matter what the guide books say' - immediately evoked a reaction on social media from readers.

Cafes are men-only domains. Shopping malls cater for Muslim not western women. The veil is not only in fashion, it is integral to the culture. As a western woman, you make adjustments. You don’t go out alone at night. In fact, you don’t go out alone at all. You cover up, no matter what the guide books say. And you speak French or you don’t manage. - Michelle Walshe

Shopping malls only cater for Muslim women? One response on Twitter pointed out - @IrishTimes And the shopping. How can one miss Zara, H&M, Mango, in heart of city? All next to cafes filled with men and women.

Marrakech resident Mandy Sinclair responds...Statements such as, "Cafes are men-only domains. Shopping malls cater for Muslim not western women. The veil is not only in fashion, it is integral to the culture,” are not only inaccurate but a laughable misrepresentation of the city. One doesn’t have to venture far to discover cafes lining the street with both men and women. And head on down to the central plaza (everyone knows it) on the weekend where international high street shops Zara and Mango are heaving with locals and you’ll soon find that the same clothes available in these shops are available in any other city around the world. I can speak from experience as I recently nipped in to Zara while back in Canada and during a weekend getaway to Barcelona.

"Cafes are men-only domains"

The comment about "covering up" also drew a response.

hey @IrishTimes I'm heading in my gym gear, unveiled, to a mixed gym for spin class. Ready to pull your misinformed article Marrakech yet?

"It has never been suggested to me, either explicitly or in material I have read about Morocco, that I should cover my head in any manner in order to fit in" - Canadian Expat Kathi Black.

Most general advice to tourists is to dress respectfully. While it is true that young women often find themselves the centre of unwanted attention, in general, Moroccan men are respectful to women. Most expats soon find they are recognised as part of the community and treated as such. Even in the Fez Medina, which is far more conservative than Marrakech, women feel safer on the streets than they would in many Western cities.

Mandy Sinclair backs that up. "What couldn’t be further from the truth is the blanket statement, “As a western woman, you make adjustments. You don’t go out alone at night. In fact, you don’t go out alone at all.” In fact, I’m waiting for my single female colleague to finish up for the day so we can meet at our favourite wine bar for after work drinks. I’ve felt safer in Morocco than I do in most European and North American cities."

Another expat, Kathi Black, agrees, "I live my life as I would in Canada. I live alone, work alone, and travel around the city and country alone. I exercise common sense safety measures of course. But I have never felt scared to leave my house alone".

Kathi also disagrees with the Irish Times story and the claim that Marrakech tries hard to be like the West. "Western countries like to call themselves “melting pots” and flaunt their “tolerant” views, but Morocco is quietly living those values and has been for centuries. Moroccans are extraordinarily proud of who they and would never try to be something else. They don’t try to be like the West, but they are in many ways, because of their French influence and in that sense they come by their Western influence and liberal thinking honestly, in an authentic way. But they also live unabashedly in their ancient roots. In Marrakech you can pass the morning in the shops of the local shopping malls, and the afternoon in cafes and restaurants as you wish, and the evening in the ancient medina among an exotic culture that in many ways hasn’t changed since the 7th century".

Kathi goes on to say, "As a guest in this country, I do my best to show graciousness toward my hosts. I attempt to communicate in French, a language I do not speak. I have learned a few essential phrases in Darija in order to show respect, but I have never had a problem not knowing the language. There are more than enough selfless locals who will give you the shirt off their back, a ride to the local agency, their translation services and split their lunch with you. It has never been suggested to me, either explicitly or in material I have read about Morocco, that I should cover my head in any manner in order to fit in.

For the record, French newspaper, Le Monde. has named Marrakech among the world’s top 20 destinations to visit in 2017. According to data from Morocco’s Tourism Observatory, more than 8.1million tourists visited Marrakech in the first nine months of 2016.

Kathi Black is the co-owner of the tour company Roaming Camels

Mandy Sinclair runs the popular blog Why Morocco? She also is the founder and managing director of Say Something Communications SARL and Tasting Marrakech food and cultural tours

SHARE THIS!