Sunday, March 09, 2014

The Art of Writing Fez


An intensive writing course will be held in the richly stimulating environment of the Fez medina from November 16 - 21



Conducted by three successful authors, Sandy McCutcheon, Suzanna Clarke and Lisa Clifford, The Art of Writing in Fez offers morning and afternoon lectures on writing and evening live Skype sessions with publishing professionals across the globe.

"Fez is a city that is full of sights, sounds, smells, textures and an overall ambience that thrills a writer," says Lisa. "It’s a place that makes you want to write, it inspires expression. Writers often need to take themselves out of their normal, everyday lives to feel afresh. Some of my best plot line ideas have come from being in a new environment that somehow seems to wakes me up. That’s how I feel about Fez. What a dream – to write in Fez!"


Lisa Clifford

The writing retreat will focus on character, structure, unleashing your creativity and an opportunity to learn the tips and tricks of travel writing. It explores writing from a sense of place – how to immerse your readers in your chosen location through the use of sight, sound, smell, taste and touch – all senses heightened by the evocative surrounds of Fez. It will be held in the former Pasha's summer palace, Jardin des Biehn.

Following a career in radio, television and print journalism in Australia and America, Lisa Clifford moved to Italy and wrote The Promise – an Italian Romance and Death in the Mountains published by Pan Macmillan. She is the author of Walking Sydney and her latest book, Naples – A Way of Love, was published in October 2013 by Penguin. Lisa contributes opinion pieces, guides and lifestyle articles on Italy to The Australian, The Australian Financial review, Gourmet Traveler and a range of other magazines and newspapers.

The Art of Writing in Fez follows on from a series of well attended writers' retreats that Lisa has run in Tuscany. "Running top quality, writers retreats was something I had wanted to do for a long time," she says. "I’ve been an expat writer for many years and found that spending hours at my desk alone whilst living the life of the solitary writer made me rather lonely. I began to travel often to join other writers in the UK or US, to be with people who felt fulfilled through writing. Then I decided to run writers retreats myself, only I wanted to design programmes that gave either emerging or established writers a handle on every aspect of improving their craft.

"I also wanted to provide them with opportunities to meet publishers and agents; to give writers the chance to pick professional’s brains (so to speak). By the time I started the Art of Writing I knew many successful international writers who, upon asking, were extremely enthusiastic to teach. After four books I very much wanted to help others write their story and crack the publishing world."




Sandy McCutcheon
The other tutors are long term residents of Fez. Sandy McCutcheon is the author of twelve novels, twenty-three plays, two musicals, a libretto, a memoir, a children’s book and also non-fiction and poetry work. 

He has worked in commercial and public radio in Australia, New Zealand and Finland, including 15 years as the presenter of ‘Australia Talks Back’ on Australia’s Radio National.



Suzanna Clarke is an author, photographer and journalist. She worked as a photographer, reviewer, travel and feature writer for The Courier-Mail in Queensland, Australia for eleven years, and then spent four years as Arts Editor. Her work has been regularly published by major Australian newspapers and national and international magazines. She has an MA in Creative Writing from the Queensland University of Technology and worked part-time as a lecturer in Non-Fiction Creative Writing for three years.


Suzanna Clarke with Mustapha the builder

Suzanna's non-fiction book A House in Fez, published by Penguin, has also been published in the United Kingdom, the USA, Korea and Poland. She now works as the Cultural Co-ordinator for the American Language Center in Fez.

"People often ask me about my experiences living in Fez, and how difficult they were to translate to the printed page. I've learned so much since I've been living here about the culture and the people, I want to share how some of those experiences and ways of conveying them with other writers. Another aspect of telling stories is taking photographs, and I will also be giving tips and tricks on this."

Lisa explains that, "My job is to get people on the road to telling their story, whatever story that may be....I’ve seen enormous benefit for emerging and established writers in gathering together in a group with creative writing teachers and others to learn. And I’m not talking about attending a course where you go home at the end of the day. I’m talking about getting together in a group to eat, learn, hike, drink and simply hang out together with no distractions for a week."

No matter what your genre, the Fez workshop aims to lift your ability to write well. Whether you simply love writing, have a stalled project in hand or need stimulating time to work out the seed of an idea, the goal of your time in Fez is to improve on all levels. The course is applicable to fiction, memoir, travel journalism, historical, romance, creative non-fiction and blogging.




For further information about the Art of Writing in Fez  CLICK HERE. 


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Rock the Kasbahs


Watching a performance at last year's Fes Festival 

Renowned choir director from Sydney, Stuart Davis, is returning to Morocco from June 11 - 24 with a group of singers to make music in the medinas of Fez, Marrakech and Essaouira. They will also immerse themselves in two fabulous world music festivals, in Fez and Essaouira. For those who enjoy singing, it's possible to join the tour. 

Stuart Davis's choir Timbre Flaws, who toured Morocco last year

The 2014 tour follows on from a successful one last year that Stuart made with his 32 voice Australian choir Timbre Flaws.

"We took every chance we could to sing for Fez locals," Stuart says. "It was an incredible week. Highlights included joining one of the Sufi groups onstage after walking with them in their candlelight procession through a seething mass of Moroccans to get to the stage, and also performing at the ALIF riad for a group of Moroccan students. The response far exceeded anything we expected, one student actually proclaiming she was 'our biggest fan' after viewing us on YouTube.

"The week in Fez was simply brilliant, I'm hard pressed to remember any other week of my life in which so many things happened, many of them once-in-a-lifetime experiences.

The choir in Fez
"The evening concerts in the Batha museum were entrancing, smaller concerts in riads were stunning, and our own performances - everywhere from a grimy workshop deep in the medina singing for a dozen local rations, to a flashmob at Bab Boujloud which had restaurant owners and diners clapping along - were unforgettable.

"If you like to sing, fancy a bit of an adventure, and if you want to hear music from around the world in an unforgettable, medieval medina, this might be your thing," he says.

Some of the 2014 Fes Festival highlights will be Rokia Traoré, Mor Kabasi, Tomatito, Hot 8 Brass Band of New Orleans, Zakir Hussain, Raza Khan, Lior Elmaleh and Buddy Guy.

For more info: marta@worldexpeditions.com.au or enquiries@worldexpeditions.co.uk

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Friday, March 07, 2014

When Music is the Best Medicine - Audiopharmacy!


A concert by Audiopharmacy will be held the Complexe Culturel Houriya (next to the Tagemouati Mosque) at 8 PM on Monday, March 10th.  The concert is free.  The American group from California is sponsored by ALC-ALIF Fez and the US Embassy. Everyone is most welcome


"AudioPharmacy consists of multicultural band members who are dedicated to creating an eclectic blend of live world instrumentation, turntable scratches, and conscious, thought-provoking lyrics.  Although Hip-Hop continues to be a strong foundation, what makes this music truly unique is how the voices & sounds of many world cultures are fused together into the signature Audiopharmacy sound."



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Thursday, March 06, 2014

Friday Performance in Fez by Megumi Matsubara


The wonderful artist, poet and performer Megumi Matsubara is giving a free performance along with Emma Dusong. Megumi has completed a highly acclaimed season at the Marrakech Biennial (see our story here)  and this may be the only performance in Fez. The event starts tomorrow (7th March) at 1900h at Dar Batha - Megumi is not to be missed!  


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Wednesday, March 05, 2014

Marrakech Biennale 5 - Where Are We Now?


The Marrakech Biennale 5 opened on February 26 and continues until March 31. There are masses of exhibitions, performances, talks, films and other events in the packed schedule. Suzanna Clarke reports for The View from Fez


Megumi Matsubara with her photographs taken at Jnan Sbil in Fez

The theme of Marrakech Biennale 5 , Where are we now?, is explored by more than 70 artists in four different disciplines - Visual Arts, Literature, Cinema and Video and Performing Arts.

One of those exhibiting is Japanese artist Megumi Matsubara, who has a solo show The Blind Dream, at a recently renovated 400 year old apartment in the Marrakech Medina, Douiria Mouassine in Derb El Hammam.

The Blind Dream is an exquisite solo show, where Megumi interacts with the light and space of the ancient apartment. As you enter, you see a series of nine colourful photographs of flowers on a round mirror table.

"It's all about light," says Megumi. "I took these at different times of day at Jnan Sbil, the public garden in Fez. I kept visiting at different times of day to see the effect. It's more about the light than the flowers. These flowers are illuminated for a very short time, in contrast to the age of the gardens."

Megumi has created small rainbows of light through the apartment with the use of thin pieces of perspex placed on light sources.

In one of the other rooms are 16 images of the red room of Palais Mokri in Fez, where she spent a night to document the colour red. In a room dedicated to moonlight, The Entrance is a quiet photograph from the Sahara Desert. Megumi says, "It invites viewers to the world of blindness, with one's eyes wide open."

In the back room is a music piece translated from Braille characters to the sound of lute. There is also a new limited edition book, The Tale of the Japanese and the Mosquito, the first published volume of a series of eight stories written by Megumi during her stay in the Sahara Desert. It's a delightfully whimsical story, full of evocative images, about the adventures of a Japanese girl and her cat in an ancient labyrinthine city that sounds remarkably like Fez.

Megumi Matsubara discusses her work

The Marrakech Biennale was founded 10 years ago by Vanessa Branson and continues to be directed by her. "It was born as a response to world events," she says. "Western governments seemed to be painting the entire area of North Africa and the Middle East with the same broad brush of distrust and paranoia. There was a real need to find a platform to debate ideas and ideologies. What better way to do this than through the arts?"

"Through the arts, you can discuss contemporary issues without causing offense, you can play around with concepts, change your mind, develop a critical language...Engaging in contemporary culture indicates that a country celebrates free thinking and is confident in its future."

Marrakech Biennale founder and director Vanessa Branson

The artistic director of the Biennale is Alya Sebti, and the Dutch-Moroccan curator Hicham Khalidi is curating the visual arts section.

Using the question Where are we now?, the visual art component examines issues of contemporary identity, providing the opportunity to question current events and what is happening socially and politically.

The art works are spread between the venues of the 16th century Palais Badii, which was
commissioned by the Sultan Al Mansour in 1578, Dar Si Said, which houses the Museum of Moroccan Arts, and the former Bank Al Maghrib in the middle of the Jemaa El Fna square. They are all locations which complement each other and show the rich architectural heritage of the city.

On Sunday there was a well attended question and answer session with film director Stephen Frears, whose latest film Philomena, starring Judy Dench, was nominated for an Oscar.


English film director Stephen Frears
Interviewed by documentary maker Alan Yentob, Frears was a lively and entertaining guest, with a self-deprecating sense of humour. His films, such as My Beautiful Laundrette and Dirty Pretty Things, fit well into discussions about identity.

"Laundrette was about children of empire," he explained, "While Dirty Pretty Things focused on immigration - people coming over who had nothing to do with Britain."

Frears said he never searched for particular themes when choosing a film script. "I do films based on real life," he said, "I am perplexed as anything (that they are so successful)."

He downplayed his role as a director, saying that with good actors, "All I have to do is stand at the back and light the touch paper - let good actors do their job."

"It's easy to make a depressing film. The comic bits are necessary."

The crowd at Riad El Fenn for Stephen Frears' talk
The Marrakech Biennale 5 runs until March 31. To see the schedule and for further information CLICK HERE. 

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Cafe Clock Opens In Marrakech


The new Cafe Clock has just opened in the kasbah of Marrakech, and is a vibrant cross-cultural space, offering tasty food and stimulating entertainment 

Mike Richardson in the new Cafe Clock

It's taken 14 months for the new Cafe Clock to go from a vision to a reality, and owner Mike Richardson is thrilled by the result. "It's got a completely different look from the Fez Cafe Clock," he says. Downstairs is a light filled space with contemporary art work on clean white walls, while upstairs is a terrace with seating areas, views over Marrakech, and the Clock Cooking School.

Mike, right, with his workers from Fez - left to right, Miriam, Khalid, Bouchra, Tariq & Melissa

Mike has brought several of his well-trained staff from Fez to Marrakech, including chef Tariq and manager Khalid. He already has 16 part-time staff for the Marrakech operation, with 24 running the Fez operation.

The new Cafe Clock is located in the kasbah section of the city, along the street from the Saadian Tombs. "We decided on the kasbah very quickly," says Mike. "There are lots of cafes in the medina, but there is nothing in this part of town. We talked to a lot of people who had fond memories of the kasbah, so we decided this was the place to be."

Downstairs interior of Cafe Clock
The comfortable terrace of Cafe Clock

Like Cafe Clock in Fez, the new Marrakech space will offer much more than simply food. As well as being a meeting and hang out space, it will have regular concerts and jam sessions, yoga and oriental dance classes, and story-telling sessions every Thursday from 5 - 7 pm.

Traditional storyteller Ahmed Ezzarghani

Story telling is a particularly important part of Moroccan tradition, and a 1,000 year old art that is rapidly disappearing - swamped by global culture. At the Clock, traditional storytellers, such as Ahmed Ezzarghani,(above) will tell stories in Darija, as they have for many years in the famous Jemaa El Fna. Their apprentices will tell stories in English. "So we will have three stories in Darija and three in English", explains Mike.

The new Cafe Clock is also an exhibition space. Currently on show are photographs and paintings of and by street artists, supplied by the Yakin and Boaz Gallery in Casablanca. 

Photograph by the Yakin and Boaz gallery

Mike has also been collecting quirky naive paintings by a local artist, and has a collection of these on display.



Delicious food will, of course, be a major feature of the experience. The menu is similar to that of Fez Cafe Clock, with the herbed chicken sandwich, maakouda (potato cakes), and orange and almond cake all making an appearance. The renowned camel burger is also on the menu, although it has been surprisingly difficult to source the camel meat, says Mike. "You know how in Fez there are about three places that sell it in the souk? Well, we couldn't find that here. We've had to get it from a souk outside Marrakech and buy it in bulk."

Tariq demonstrates how to prepare an ice-cream sundae

Cafe Clock Marrakech will make their own bread, and they are also making ice-cream on site. Flavours include red fruit sorbet and mango lassi.

"The Bollywood" - one of the delicious ice-cream sundaes on offer

Find Cafe Clock Marrakech at 224 Derb Chtouka, ph +212 5243 78 367. 
Info: CLICK HERE. 


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Fez Women Getting the Gloves on


Today's photograph of the day is an interesting challenge to the stereotype of muslim women we see in western media . It was taken at the Red Dragon martial arts club in the Ville Nouvelle of Fez by John Horniblow


The View from Fez welcomes contributions for our photo of the day series. Our contact details can be found via link at the top of this page. See more Photos of the Day here

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Saturday, March 01, 2014

Humanitarian Aid or Evangelism?


Youssef Sourgo writing for Morocco World News asks the question "Are there any evangelists in the Rif?"

The problem of some foreign Christian organisations using aid, English language lessons or tourism projects as a cover for evangelism has long been a problem in Morocco. While it is perfectly acceptable for Christians to worship at local churches, active attempts at converting Moroccan Muslims are forbidden. Time and again, radical Christian groups have run into trouble for their activities including smuggling in bibles in Arabic.

A young American student caught offering a Moroccan a bible in Arabic

Youssef Sourgo reports that the newspaper, Al Massae, has published the results of a recent investigation in the Northern Moroccan Rif region

The investigation, published by the daily newspaper this weekend, began after a complaint was lodged by a Sheikh in a popular area of Al Hoceima against an American citizen there.

According to the testimonies provided by the inhabitants of the region, Al Massae reports that the Americans residing in the town of Ait Kamra settled after the earthquake that struck the city of Al Houceima, in order to provide direct assistance to people who were reconstructing their homes at that time.

According to Al Massae, there are several indicators that suggest the Americans there were engaging in evangelist rituals. Some of these indicators are the buildings without a permit where they reside, as well as their insistence on staying in the area.

According to the Moroccan newspaper, the Spanish were the first to practice Proselytism in the Rif region through certain humanitarian activities, such as providing support to associations.

The investigation conducted by Al Massae has placed question marks on the real purpose behind the humanitarian activities carried out in some remote areas. Whether or not these activities are related to the so-called presence of Proselytism in the region is still an unanswered question.

Last month, Moroccan authorities arrested an American citizen suspected of engaging in missionary activities in the city of Al Houceima. The suspect had lived in the region since the 2004 earthquake.

This story thanks to Morocco World News


Here is a list of earlier stories on evangelical work in Morocco;

Teaching English or Evangelising?

German Evangelist Flees

Evangelists Target Morocco

Smuggling Bibles

New Christian Crusade in Morocco

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Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Music Lovers Mourn the Passing of Paco de Lucia


Back on Sunday, June 09, 2013. the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music presented a wonderful concert by Paco de Lucia. Now comes the sad news that the master of the Spanish guitar died in Mexico at the age of 66



Paco de Lucia dazzled audiences with his lightning-speed flamenco rhythms and finger work. Born Dec. 21, 1947, de Lucia — whose real name was Francisco Sanchez Gomez — was best-known for flamenco but also experimented with other genres of music. One of his most famous recordings was Friday Night in San Francisco, recorded with fellow guitarists John McLaughlin and Al Di Meola in 1981.

During the 1960s and 1970s, he formed an extremely popular duo with late flamenco singer legend Camaron de la Isla.

His 1973 rumba Entre Dos Aguas (Between Two Waters) became one of the most popular recordings in Spain.

De Lucia was awarded the Culture Ministry's Fine Arts Gold Medal in 1992 and the prestigious Prince of Asturias prize for the Arts in 2004.

A spokeswoman for the town hall of de Lucia's native Spanish town of Algeciras said de Lucia family members had told them the artist died of a heart attack. She said he began to feel unwell while on a beach in Cancun with his child and died while being taken to a local hospital.



The official spoke on condition of anonymity as town hall regulations do not allow her to be identified publicly

Describing the death as unexpected and premature, Spanish Education and Culture Minister Jose Ignacio Wert said he was "a unique and unrepeatable figure."

Paco de Lucia was an inspiration to many Moroccan musicians including Fez oud and guitar player and coordinator of the ALC-ALIF Music Club, Hamza El Fasiki. who learned his guitar technique by watching video clips of of Paco's playing.

"His guitar has been silenced - he was my teacher, companion in music, a creative inspiration and motivation ... I feel sad" ~ Hamza El Fasiki.

Paco de Lucia signing Hamza's guitar in 2013

Hamza was saddened by Paco's early death. "I followed everything about the way he played - his philosophy, the way sat, His finger action, even the way he cut his nails. He will be sadly missed."

Paco's signature on Hamza's guitar


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