Thursday, April 17, 2014

Fez Hamadcha Sufi Troupe ~ May Visit Australia


Exciting news came this week that one of the most popular Sufi Brotherhoods in Fez has been invited to appear at the largest music festival in the Southern Hemisphere - the Woodford Festival in Australia. The festival runs for a week and entertains around 130,000 people. The appearance of the Hamadcha Sufis and other Moroccan events will also help attract more Australian visitors to Morocco

Due to financial constraints the entire tariqa will not be able to travel, but rather a small group will make the long journey "down under". There is still fundraising to be done, but if successful the troupe would perform in Australia between December 26 2014 and January 1st 2015

If the tour goes ahead the group will be lead by Abderrahim Amrani Marrakchi and include musician and anthropologist Frédéric Calmès who will act as the group's translator.

Hamadcha leader Abderrahim Amrani Marrakchi (centre) with the troupe
Frédéric Calmès playing the gimbri


Also appearing with the troupe will be English singer Faith Barker. Faith, who studies at Cambridge University, has been performing with the Hamadcha since last year when she was astonished to be asked to "come and sing at a festival in Meknes".


Faith Barker  - a wonderful addition to the troupe
Yesterday the Hamadcha performed privately at Riad Zany and took part in a photoshoot to promote the tour to Australia. The tariqa have performed at festival in Europe and Africa and their exciting and infectious style will certainly be a hit in the antipodes.

Rachida El Jokh ~ taking care of incense and ritual cuisine

Previous Appearances
-Festival of Fez, June 2009.
-Warchane-slam the malhoun Festival, Essaouira, May 2009.
-Festival-Sufi culture, Fez, April 2009.
- "Morocco, 12 centuries of history", UNESCO, Paris, November 2008 .
-Festival of Sacred Music, Fez, June 2008.
-Sufi Culture Festival, Fes, May 2007.
-Festival in the city of Sacred Music Festival in Fez, in June 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005 and 2006.
- Festival Bronsom paradise, Netherlands, July 2004.
-Festival of Sacred Music-Berlin, Germany, December 2003.
-Music Festival for Peace in Valencia, Spain in April 2003.
-Latitudes Festival-Maghreb-Villette, Paris, May 2002.
-Festival of World Sacred Music, Fes, Morocco, June 2002.
-Festival-Mediterranean Bari, Italy, August 2001.
-Festival-cultural Mediterranean, Sicily, Italy, August 2000.
-Festival of Popular Arts in Marrakech, Morocco, 2000.
-Time-Morocco, Café de la Danse, Paris, December 1999.
-Alabama Birmingham International Festival, USA in April 1999.


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Wednesday, April 16, 2014

The Qadiriyya Sufi Brotherhood at the Fez Sufi Festival


The Qadiriyya Sufi Brotherhood

The Qadiriyya (Arabic: القادريه, Persian:قادریه, also transliterated Qadri, Qadriya, Kadri, or Qadri), are members of the Qadiri Sufi order (tariqa). This derives its name from Syed Abdul Qader Gilani Al Amoli (1077–1166 CE, also transliterated as "Jilani") who was a native of the Iranian province of Mazandaran. The order relies strongly upon adherence to the fundamentals of Islam. The Qadiri Order pays particular attention to the outward practices of Islam as determined by the Sunna (documented practices and customs of the Prophet). Qadiris are very well disciplined, known for “inner” jihad, and are often cited as examples of saintly living. The dervishes are also
known for protecting Islam and freedoms of Muslims in the distant outposts of Islam such as in Algeria, Kosovo, and Chechnya.

The order, with its many offshoots, is widespread, particularly in the Arabic-speaking world, and can also be found in Turkey, Indonesia, Afghanistan, India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, the Balkans, Israel, China, East and West Africa. The Tariqa Boutchichiya is a branch of the Qadiriyya that originated in North-east Morocco in the 18th century. The famous traveller and writer Isabelle Eberhardt also belonged to the Qadiri order.

The symbol of the order is the rose. A rose of green and white cloth, with a six-pointed star in the middle, is traditionally worn in the cap of Qadiri dervishes. Robes of black felt are also customary.

The brotherhood's teachings emphasise the struggle against the desires of the ego. Gilani described it as "the greater struggle" (jihad) This has two stages; first against deeds forbidden by religious law and second against fundamental vices such as greed, vanity, and fear. A true seeker of God should overcome all desires other than wishing to be taken into God's custody.

Mostar at night - photo Suzanna Clarke

The Brotherhood is very active in Sarajevo and Mostar in Bosnia. During the war in Bosnia they formed fighting units of Dervishes that became renowned for their heroic defence of the Bosnian heartland.



The Concert

On another balmy night in Fez the Qadiriyya gave a wonderful display of their dervish skills. Entering quietly and with a respectful bow to the audience the almost thirty strong troupe took their places with the men in green of black jackets on the lower level and those in cream or white on the stage.

Not chanting but singing - with almost angelic voices

After chanting dhikr (prayers) the men on the lower level began to chant in deep guttural tones while two men on the stage soared above them with tones that by contrast seemed almost angelic.

Those that whirl - with their traditional tall hats.
Two the left and right of the lower group were the young men who began to turn slowly until, increasing in tempo their long white skirts billowed out. It was a moment many in the audience were seeing for the first time and their appreciation and awe was palpable.


It was a sight that will probably only be rivaled by the Turkish Dervishes from the Tariqa Khalwatiyya who sat quietly in the audience admiring the Bosnians and knowing that their evening comes tomorrow.

Tariqa Khalwatiyya watching the performance


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Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Tariqa Charqawiyya ~ a Hit at the Fez Sufi Festival


In the 2013 Fes Festival of Sufi Culture the Charqawiyya gave one of the most popular performances and once again a good crowd were on hand to greet them at the Batha Museum. The group is renowned for its infectious high energy ceremonies


The Tariqa did not disappoint. After a quite opening chant of “la illaha il Allah”, the two box drummers of the thirteen man troup upped the tempo which captured the slightly smaller crowd at the Batha Museum.


The Charqawiyya are a branch of the Shadhiliyya, a North African Sufi order out of which many of the present day Moroccan Sufi brotherhoods have sprung. The Charqawiyya are in actuality an offshoot of a prior order annexed from the Shadhiliyya, namely the Jazuliyya, and take their name from Muhammad al-Sharqi (d.1601), a descendent of the 2nd caliph, ‘Umar ibn al-Khattab. Sometimes the Charqawiyya are known by the full name: Charqawiyya Jazuliyya-Shadhiliyya.


Based historically in Boujad, a Moroccan town bordering the Atlas mountains, they are known for their political activism, beginning in the 17th Century with their support for Sultan Moulay al-Rashid (d.1672), the founder of the ‘Alaouite dynasty of Moroccan kings, which still rules to this day.


Tomorrow 9pm (Wednesday): The Tariqa Qadiriyya from Bosnia Herzegovena

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Moroccan News Briefs #113


Moroccan TV pushes for better representation of women

The Moroccan channel 2M recently unveiled a  charter which it has established, for the enhancement of the image of women in the media. Recognizing that in the media in general does not adequately reflect the role of women in society, and diversity of responsibilities they assume, 2M has established an ad hoc committee that has worked for nearly a year with the various stakeholders, in a participatory and innovative approach .

This helped develop a a pilot project aimed at creating a positive ripple effect on to other media.

According to Salim Sheikh , CEO of 2M, "the persistence of negative female stereotypes in the media is an obstacle to self-esteem and promoting the rightful place of women in Moroccan society".

"2M , by its historical role as citizen chain and its status as a major public media leader, a pioneer role in the field of promoting gender role . It is a long process that requires the involvement of everyone, " he said.

Moroccan women occupy leadership responsibilities in the media. In fact, over 40 % of journalistic body 2M is composed of women. They also benefit from encouraging visibility with more than 40 % of transmissions broadcast being dedicated to women.


Fighting for gender equality in Morocco

Morocco World News reports that over the weekend Moroccan women organized a March in Rabat to denounce the government’s lack of will to implement the provisions of the constitution on gender equality.

Moroccan women organized the march in Rabat

Between 1,000 and 1,200 people marched on Sunday morning in Rabat in response to the call launched by Civil Coalition for the Implementation of Article 19 in the Moroccan Constitution. Demonstrators, who came from all corners of the country, including from distant cities such as Laayoune and Guelmim, denounced Benkirane government’s policy that “blocks the establishment of legal mechanisms guaranteeing the rights of women,” particularly those contained in Article 19 of the Constitution. Demonstrators demanded the elimination of all forms of violence and discrimination against women and girls.

Article 19 of Moroccan Constitution, adopted by referendum in July 2011, clearly calls for gender equality and yet its implementation is taking very slow steps.

Article 19 states that: “Men and women have equal civil, political, economic, social, cultural and environmental rights and freedoms as listed in this article and in the rest of the constitution as well as the conventions and international treaties duly ratified by Morocco in conformity with the constitution’s provisions and the kingdom’s constants and its laws. The state shall work towards the establishment of parity between men and women. Therefore, it has assigned a specialized authority to ensure parity between men and women and fight against all forms of discrimination.”


Tourism represent 9.7% of GDP in 2024

According to a new 2014 report: "The economic impact of tourism and travel" by the WTTC (World Travel and Tourism Council ), tourism and trips to Morocco will grow significantly in 2014.

Tourism's direct contribution to GDP accounted for 76 1 billion dirhams, or $ 9.5 billion ( 8.6% of total GDP) in 2013 and is expected to increase 8.1% this year. This share would experience an average annual growth rate ( CAGR ) of 5.6% between 2014 and 2024 to represent term 141 500 000 000 dirhams ( DH), or 9.7 % of GDP.

The tourism sector had a direct workforce of 814,000 people in 2013, or 7.6 % of total employment. This contribution is expected to increase 6.1% in 2014 and 2.7% annually to 2024, to reach 1.13 million direct jobs (8.8% of total employment).

For indirect jobs, the WTTC expects an increase of 6.4 % in 2014, 1.91 million jobs. In the coming 10 years, 1.31 million indirect jobs will be created thanks to tourism and travel .


District Police in Casablanca nab a gang of scammers

National Brigade of the PJ in this Casa have caught a gang, reported to be the authors of many scams. These alleged suspects were arrested in possession of numerous falsified documents and hardware ( a scanner), says a police source. This band of seven alleged crooks has been raging across the country and scammed finance companies.

The seven under police guard

Their technique: after falsifying documents, including identity cards, the crooks have created "fictitious" companies with business registers also falsified. With these documents they managed to deceive banks into giving credit for the acquisition of luxury cars.

Though captured in Casablanca, the leader of the "mafia network" is from the south. He is said to be an expert in document forgery.

 "The members of this criminal gang admitted falsifying a dozen cards to date. With these false documents, the suspects were able to create 14 companies and build business registers to obtain bank loans. This allows them to feed an underground pathway for acquisition of luxury cars (twenty) they flowed thereafter at ridiculously low prices,  says the local Police Chief

Subjected to intensive interrogations, the suspects have admitted the facts alleged against them.

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Small Earthquake Felt From Fez To Ifrane


An earthquake in the Fez region was felt over a wide area this morning. The earthquake, which was described as moderate, shook windows and furniture and woke many people in the area. No aftershocks were recorded and no casualties or material damages have been reported.

Magnitude : 4.5
Local Time : 2014-04-15 08:56:47
GMT/UTC Time : 2014-04-15 07:56:47
Depth (Hypocenter) : 2 km

A smaller earthquake measuring 3.8 on the Richter scale was recorded the same day last year (Tuesday April 16, 2013) in Ifrane province (60 km from Fez).

The worst recent earthquake recorded in Morocco was that of the coastal city of Al Houceima, on the northern edge of the Rif Mountains. The tragic earthquake was of magnitude 6,4 MI, and caused about 628 deaths, 926 injuries, the destruction 2,539 homes, and more than 15,000 people were left homeless.

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Monday, April 14, 2014

Nacer Khemir's "Looking for Muhyiddin" Screened at Fes Sufi Festival


The Fes Festival of Sufi Culture took a break from the chanting last night to watch a screening of a film by Tunisian filmmaker Nacer Khemir

Looking for Muhyiddin is a film about the great mystic Sheikh Muhyiddin Ibn Arabi. The film begins as a man returns home to bury his mother. In order to keep a promise he made to his father to hand over the “amana” to a certain Sheikh Muhyiddin Ibn Arabi, he begins a journey that takes him to ten different countries. Along the way viewers learn the most important aspects of Islam.

With the expected showers arriving, the organisers of the Sufi Festival made the right call in switching the venue from the Batha Museum to Dar Batha belonging to the French Institute.

Dar Batha - a delightful venue but too small for the number of people wishing to attend

However, the lack of advance notice caused some people to arrive late and the very small venue could not hold all of those wanting to see the film. Rumour has it that there may be an extra screening on Wednesday - we will keep you posted.

The large screen at the French Institute gave everyone inside a good view

Those lucky enough to get a seat were treated to a remarkable journey through cultures and languages as the search for the spirit of Ibn Arabi unfolds. It is an delightful, thoughtful and at times moving piece of cinema.


It was the filmmaker Nacer Khemir's intention that anyone who sees this film gets a very clear idea of what Islam is and when Khemir was asked what is the Islam of Ibn 'Arabi? he responded with a poem from Ibn Arabi.

"My heart is now capable of taking on all forms.
It is a pasture for gazelles and a monastery for monks,
a temple for idols, and the Kaaba for pilgrims.
It is the tables of the Torah, the book of the Koran,
it practices the religion of love wherever its caravans take it.
Love is my faith, my religion."

Khemir says this is "a pretty accurate explanation of Islam: it is about a little-known vision of Islam. Given all the confusion surrounding Islam, it was important to me to spread the thoughts of this sheikh. He brings clarity to this confusion".

Nacer Khemir (Arabic: ناصر خمير‎) was born in 1948 in Korba in Tunisia, and has had a long career as a writer, artist, storyteller, and filmmaker. Khemir has a dozen publications and his work has been displayed in places such as the Centre Georges Pompidou, the City of Paris’ Museum of Modern Art and other European cities.

Among his films are works such as The Story of the Land of God or The Dove’s Lost Necklace, which won the Special Jury Award at the Locarno International Film Festival, in Italy, the First Award at the Belfort International Film Festival, in France, and the Special Jury Award at the Francophone Film Festival of Saint-Martin.

In 1984, he won the First Award at the Festival of Three Continents in Nantes, France, for his film The Searchers of the Desert. He also won the Opera Prima Award at the Festival of Carthage (Tunisia), the Palme D’or at the International Film Festival of Valencia and the Critics Award of the Mostra di Venezia.

Nacer Khemir


Details

Looking For Muhyiddin ( Tunisia 2012 )
Direction: Nacer Khemir
Screenplay: Nacer Khemir
Director of Photography: Alexendre Leglis, Hazem Berrabah , Moez Chaabane ,Nacer Khemir, Pascal Poucet ,Soufiane Ben Haddada
Sound: Dana Farzanehpour, Khaled Ben Younes, Mouhamed Ali Chiboub , Vincent Villa, Yoland Decarsin
Music: Shiraz Jerbi
Editing: Nacer Khemir , Abir Messaoud
Cast: Gabriele Manndelkhan, Denis Gril, Nacer Khemir

Tomorrow evening (Tuesday) at the Batha Museum at 9pm: Samaâ with the Tariqa Charqawiyya

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Yoga Weekend in Fez


Jardin des Biehn is holding a yoga weekend on the 19th and 20th of April with Rima Toutain




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Sunday, April 13, 2014

The Tariqa Boutchichiyya and Tariqa Siqilliyya at the Fes Festival of Sufi Culture 2014


Tariqa Boutchichiyya
Sunday night's offering at the Batha Museum was by Tariqa Boutchichiyya and Tariqa Siqilliyya. They are two distinctly different groups in origin and in style, but they delivered a true Sufi experience for yet another enthusiastic audience

Preparing the incense
The Tariqa Boutchichiyya presented a younger generation
Festival Director Faouzi Skali was enthralled

The evening opened with the Boutchichiyya Brotherhood who came on stage with a surprisingly young generation of singers.  While they didn't have the strength and depth of the more experienced members of the Brotherhood, there were some superb singers who will no doubt have a strong part to play in the continuing growth of this Brotherhood. And, as the evening progressed, the energy level grew and mesmerised the audience.

Tariqa Siqilliyya

Suitably warmed up by the Bioutchichiyya, the crowd were ready for the "wall of sound" that the twenty strong Siqilliya produced. Dressed in white robes, and either white caps or red fez, the Siqilliyya gave a generous and “participative samaà ”. Though they had no drums, a strong rhythm was kept throughout, the sheikh, Mohamed Bennis, directing from the centre with a subtle nod here, a hand gesture there.

The style was much more melodic and they gave new energy to the oft-repeated  “la illaha il Allah”.

The Tariqa Siqilliyya were not only intense and moving to listen to, but their invitation to the audience to participate was taken up with enthusiasm. Their music, with its hints of polyphony, soared and swooped around the venue and, judging by the response from the audience their style is extremely popular.

Haj Mohamed Bennis 
“Allah, Allah, Allah Allah ya Mawlana Allah, Allah, Allah  Bifadlika Kuli.”
The tempo grew and grew with the audience clapping and swaying, awash with the rapture. It was a fine night to be in Fez.

Older members of the Brotherhood giving their all

Some Background on Tariqa Boutchichiyya and Tariqa Siqilliyya

The Siqilliyya brotherhood
The origin of the Siqiliyya seems to be shrouded in mystery. The book, Confreries Musuleman au Maghreb (Muslim Orders of the Arab West), which is s good source of background information on the different orders, is silent on the Siqilliyya. Festival Director Faouzi Skali says that they are a Moroccan offshoot of the whirling dervish group the Turkish Khalwatiyya,

A particularly interesting theory suggested by The View From Fez suggests that there is a strong Sicilian influence upon the order, hence the name Siqilliyya, from the time when Muslims first ruled, and then lived largely peacefully under Christian rule in Sicily, in the mid-10th to mid-13th Centuries. It is an interesting and plausible theory, which might explain why the songs of the Siqilliyya are so different from almost every other Sufi group.

Whilst their twirling Turkish Khalwati cousins provided the greatest spectacle, these brothers involve the audience most fully of all the orders, and it is usual for a large part of the audience to accept the sheikh’s active to request to join in the chanting of “Allah” and “La illaha il Allah”. You will hear the cry of  “na’m” or “aywa” (both “Yes!) at breaks in the singing, and regular bursts of spontaneous, uncontrolled applause after a solo.

The Batha Museum packed to capacity

The Boutchichiyya Brotherhood
The Boutchichiyya Brotherhood are from the small town of Mardagh, near Berkane, in north-eastern Morocco and has become an important pilgrimage destination. The sheikh is Sidi Hamza el Qadiri el Boutchichi and the brotherhood is active in many countries, particularly in the UK.

The Boutchichiyya are an offshoot of the Qadiriyya tariqa, one of the oldest Sufi orders, which was brought to Morocco (initially to Fez) by the descendants of the two sons of ‘Abd al-Qadir from the 16th Century. The Boutchichiyya take their name from the 18th Century sheikh Sidi Ali al-Boutchichi, a Qadiri who was given the title “al-boutchichi” because he used to serve “cracked wheat” (bou tchich) to the poor who came to his zawiya.

The Brotherhood of the Samaa Qadirya Boutchichiya performs a sacred music, and produces a spiritual state "where celestial music becomes audible," says Moroccan musicologist Abdelfettah Benmoussa. "It combines the primordial sound and the absolute divine word. Through the practice of Samaa, it becomes possible to experience the depths of being in universal harmony".

The Tariqa Boutchichiya have been at the forefront of a genuine revival of Sufism. Sidi Hamza Qadiri Boutchich, descendant of Moulay Abdelqader Aj Jilani, is a "Living Master" of the contemporary teachings of Sufism. The Brotherhood produced this revival under the leadership of Sheikh Al Haj Al Sid 'Abbas, then his son and successor Sidi Hamza. This renewal is distinguished by its ability to adapt to the changing socio-cultural contexts of our time.

The word tariqa in the name of a group, such as Tariqa Qadiriyyaq Boutchichiyya, literally means ‘the way’. In this context it means the Sufi way, literally a path, a road, which, when applied to Sufism will relate to a specific order, but they think of it as the way to God. A lot of Sufis will say there are many paths, and this is our path.


Much of what is performed is known as samaà - a form of Sufi music, and the literal translation from Arabic is "audition", to listen or to hear, but with spiritual connotations. It also refers to a ritual taking place in the zawiya, Arabic for the corner of a Sufi house or meeting place, which could be attached to a Mosque, and which would indicate that the original samaà used to meet in a corner.

Samaà is something that happens in the zawiya but is now becoming part of these cultural festivals. As Faouzi Skali says, rituals like this are an evening of community prayer, not a performance. This is what adds intensity to the experience as it is never really a performance for outsiders, more for the Sufi’s themselves, but has now become a staged thing that has entered the world music market and festival circuits. It seems that it is a very personal celebration between the group themselves but it has also taken on the modern role as a public performance of what they do. There are some differences, for example with the Moroccan-Andalusian style there will usually be some kind of orchestra, but in the zawiya the typical way of doing it is without instruments, so it’s often just vocalising.

The samaâ isn’t really considered singing, it’s more melodic vocalising. It has been called chant, but it can be translated in different ways. The word is inshad in Arabic, which can be translated as chant or melodic vocalising, it’s distinct from singing, which has other connotations. To our ears it’s very melodic and the melodic rules, the ways that you develop melody, are similar for both, but it has to do with place, time and the role of music, it’s so very difficult to give an exact definition.

Extra notes from Philip Murphy and Fitzroy Morrissey


Looking for Muhyiddin

Tomorrow night (9pm) at the Batha Museum - a film evening. Nacer Khemir's "Looking for Muhyiddin" A man returns home to bury his mother. In order to keep a promise he made to his father, he starts following the traces of Muhyiddin Ibn 'Arabi

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Saturday, April 12, 2014

Sufi Music from Spain, Morocco and Syria - The Poetry of Ibn Arabi


The first concert of the Fes Festival of Sufi Culture drew an over-capacity crowd to the Batha Museum. On a balmy Fez night the audience were treated to an extraordinary fusion of Flamenco and traditional samaa.
Photo: Maha McCutcheon (Click on photo to enlarge)

The blending of the mature voice of Curro Piñana and the that of the younger Marouane Hajji was a delight. It also gave insight into how the male voice improves with age. While taking nothing away from Marouane, Piñana produced a tsunami of sound with a rich depth that evoked pain, loss and the desire to find love with all the emotion that Flamenco can transmit.

Curro Piñana
Marouane Hajji

For his part, Marouane soared to new heights with stunning breath control and exquisite timing. The audience was enthralled. The two singers, accompanied by a beautifully played kamanja (spike fiddle), percussion and virtuoso Spanish guitar received a deserved standing ovation.

Hamam Khairy

The second part of the concert featured Hamam Khairy - "The voice of Aleppo". His flawless performance of Muwashahat was a much more traditional performance and though lacking the full ensemble he would normally perform with Hamam won the crowd over with his warmth and obvious love of the genre. It was a masterful performance.

Tomorrow at the Sufi Festival

Sunday, April 13, 2014:
10H (Musée Batha)
Roundtable: Tribute to Suad El Hakim

16H (Musée Batha)
Roundtable: In the Footsteps of Ibn Arabi

21H Concert (Musée Batha):
Samaa the Tariqa Qadiriyya Boutchichiyya and Tariqa Siqilliyya (Morocco)


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