Monday, June 30, 2008

What was he drinking?




Our eagle-eyed story scouts were amazed and bemused when they came across an article in the "Chronicle of Higher Education" by one Mark Levine. He had penned a piece for the "Chronicle" under the headline Muslim Metal

Bands crank up multiculturalism in the Islamic world

By MARK LEVINE

The first time I heard the words "heavy metal" and "Islam" in the same sentence, I was confused, to say the least. It was around 5 p.m. on a hot July day in the city of Fez, Morocco. I was at the bar of a five-star hotel with a group of friends having a drink — at $25 a piece, only one —.
...

Now stop right there! $25 USD for a drink in a bar in Fez? Hang on, let's just check that out...At today's currency rates that is 182.174 Moroccan dirhams. Yes, one hundred and eighty-two dirhams! Now, when we last checked you could buy about five or six bottles of wine with that money, nine beers and... well, you get the point. We once had a kir in a five star establishment that was 80 dirhams...

We tried to find out more, but The Chronicle of Higher Education wanted a $40 subscription....

COCKTAIL COMPETITION

We would love to hear from readers as to what drink in the great city of Fez costs 182 dirhams?

So let your imaginations run wild and design us a Mark Levine Cocktail. (oh, and let us know what it costs)

The winner gets a 20 dirham Flag Special at the Batha.

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Sunday, June 29, 2008

The whole town is talking "Al Jazeera".




Front page news in Fez and indeed around Morocco is the Al Jazeera story. It has become front page news in Morocco with most newspapers devoting their headlines and editorials to the channel's coverage of the protests in the southwestern port city of Sidi Ifni and the trial of Hassan Rachidi, its bureau chief in Rabat, on charges of providing false information. The trial is scheduled to begin tomorrow. Ahmed El Amraoui in Rabat reports


While some lashed out at Al Jazeera, accusing it of circulating false stories to tarnish the image of the country, others stood by the channel. Relations between Morocco and the Doha-based channel have deteriorated sharply of late. First Al Jazeera was banned from broadcasting a daily news bulletin on North Africa.

The decision according to Khalid Naciri, Moroccan communication minister and official spokesman of the government, was due to technical and legal issues. "There's no room for giving this decision a political dimension," Naciri was quoted as saying at a news conference following a weekly cabinet meeting.

Ties further strained when Al Jazeera, quoting a human rights group, reported that some people had been killed in a clash between angry protesters and security forces in Sidi Ifni on June 7.

The Moroccan government strongly denied the report.

Though Al Jazeera reported the government's denial, its bureau chief in Rabat was indicted for publishing erroneous news. His trial has been set for July 1.

Shunning Al Jazeera

Morocco's official news agency MAP published a column by Abdel Karim Al Mousse in which he strongly criticised Al Jazeera's refusal to apologise.

"Al Jareeza, which has claimed since its foundation twelve years ago, the inviolability possession of absolute truth after God, is still resisting admission of mistakes it has committed in covering Sidi Ifni events," he wrote.

"If Al Jazeera has chosen to admit, its grave professional mistakes could have been forgiven."

Arabic newspaper Annahar Al Maghribia struck with more critical tones, accusing Rachidi of being a secret agent of Algeria and condemned Al Jazeera for seeking an "escape forward".

"It is an escape forward. Instead of apologising for its repeated professional mistakes against Morocco, Al Jazeera has chosen to proceed in committing more mistakes to cover its subjective handling of a very normal event."

Against the stream

In stark contrast, another Arabic newspaper Aljarida Aloula accused the government of targeting journalists.

"Whenever the government finds itself in a situation it does not know what to do, it arrests journalists," it wrote.

Columnist Jamal Badouma said: "If Al Jazeera was taken to court for publishing false information, I do not understand why Abbas Al Fassi, the Moroccan prime minister, and the state-owned TV channel 2M are not taken to court as well based on the same grounds?

"Is it not denial of protests taking place in Sidi Ifni also false information?"

The daily also carried a story saying that lawyer Khalid Soufiani had decided to defend Al Jazeera for free.

Al Ousboua Assahafi, a weekly newspaper, reported: "Rachidi sues Annahar Al Maghribia for defamation."

TelQue, a Casablanca-based French daily, wondered whether Morocco would join the path of some other Arab countries in severing its relations with Al Jazeera, and described the current standoff as becoming "the talk of town".

"Al Jazeera, which is largely watched from Tangier to Sidi Ifni, has become a sort of the talk of town. For weeks the two sides have been engaged in politico-juridical row, with none of the protagonists seems ready to throw in the towel," it wrote.

Another French language newspaper Le Journal carried a Q&A interview with Mohammed El Oifi, a specialist in Arab media, who categorically denied that Al Jazeera had committed any professional mistakes in its Sidi Ifni coverage.

While the Arabic daily Al Massae reported about a campaign launched on the FaceBook website in solidarity with the Al Jazeera bureau chief under the slogan "We are all Hassan Rachidi".

The newspaper said that the campaign was kicked off after Moroccan authorities deprived Rachidi of his press accreditation.

"Two days after the launch of the campaign, organisers received around 100 supportive signatories from all over the world." it said.

In another edition, Al Massae quoted a powerful general as jokingly asking Rachidi at a reception recently hosted by the British embassy in Rabat: "Are you still at large?"

The latest Maghreb Arabe Press report:


"No Deaths documented."

According to the chairman of the International Federation for Human Rights (FIDH), Souhayr Belhassen, No death or rape cases were documented" in the southern city of Sidi Ifni, where recent clashes between police forces and demonstrators resulted in the injury of 20 demonstrators and 28 law enforcement officers. She was speaking at a a press conference held in Rabat to present the results of FIDH head's visit to Morocco and the 2007 FIDH report.
Belhassen underlined, however, that investigations in Sidi Ifni revealed "torture cases", a practice that, chairman of the Moroccan organization of Human Rights, Amina Bouayach said, "was not systematic and no cases of disappearance have been recorded during these events,"

The Sidi Ifni incident took place when an unspecified number of youths had been, since May 30, besieging the port, preventing 89 trucks loaded with 800 tons of fish from leaving the facility, which prompted authorities to intervene.

Following the June 7 clashes, the Moroccan House of Representatives (Lower House) announced the setting up of a parliamentary commission to probe the incident "following the contradictory information and rumors circulated about this incident."

The Qatari TV station, Al Jazeera, had reported that six to ten people died following the intervention of the police forces, whereas Brahim Sballil, a member of the Moroccan Human Rights Center (CMDH) reiterated “false accusations" concerning the Sidi Ifni events, citing cases of death, disappearance, and rape.

Commenting on what happened before the Parliament, Interior Minister, Chakib Benmoussa made it clear that a total of 182 people were arrested, the majority of whom were released except for 10 people who were brought before justice.



New commercial centre for Fez



Have you been wondering what is going on behind the hoardings on Avenue Allal Fassi?


Fez is to have have two new commercial centres, one in the new city at Champs de Course and the other on the road running down the hill from McDonald's to the medina. For this latter development, the two petrol stations on Avenue Allal Fassi are already being demolished, and the small business making cane furniture has had to move. Behind that little business is quite a large community of shack-dwellers that's invisible from the road; who knows what will become of the people living there?

The scrubby hills to the south of Avenue Allal Fassi will be the home of a new development due to open at the beginning of 2010. In the 22 000sq m centre, there will be a 6 000sq m Label' Vie supermarket, 80 shops and a food-court with 10 restaurants. The developers are Best Real Estate. Click here for a sneak preview of what it will all look like.

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Saturday, June 28, 2008

Caftan Fashions at The Clock


A fashion show of caftans by Sefrou haute couture designers Nany Cerise was recently held on the terrace at Cafe Clock. Helen Ranger was there for The View from Fez. 


This green velvet caftan embroidered in gold started the proceedings. It reappeared later with a gold lace takshita (long jacket worn over the caftan) encrusted with 'emeralds'. There were some beautiful designs in bold colours, augmented by the passementerie (elaborate embroidery and tiny buttons) that Sefrou is famous for.


Crowd-pleasers included a floaty pink floral, a dramatic black with silver embroidery and large silver buckle on the belt, a cherry ice satin with maroon velvet trim and a stunning lemon and lime. Not to be left out, the men wore handsome outfits too, one in black and one in white with brown embroidery, particularly on the stand-up collar.


The models were all from Sefrou, coached by local Peace Corps workers, and were very professional.

The Nany Cerise boutique is in Sefrou, ph 061 52 27 71 or 066 73 52 80.


photo credits: top, Helen Ranger; all others Omar Chennafi




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Friday, June 27, 2008

Interfaith Dialogue - Saudis 1 Morocco 14



Writing for the BBC, Magdi Abdelhadi has an important story that shows how far ahead of the rest of the Islamic world Morocco really is. While when Saudi Arabia held its first ever conference on interfaith dialogue, Morocco was hosting its 14th festival of World Sacred Music. Here is Madgdi Abdelhadi's story courtesy of the BBC


Artists from all over the world converged on its ancient city of Fez, to the east of the capital Rabat. While the Saudi gathering was made up of only Muslim clerics discussing a framework for future dialogue with Christianity and Judaism, Morocco has for years been opening its arms to musicians from all over the world.

The aim of the Fez festival is to promote better understanding between cultures and faiths through exposure to some of the most sublime expressions of faith - sacred music.

The difference between the Saudi and Moroccan approaches to dialogue between faiths could not have been more stark, a reminder that notions of the Muslim or the Arab world are in fact an oversimplification of what is fundamentally a complex and heterogeneous reality.

Religion and society

"Religion is too important to leave to clerics alone," says the president of the festival, Mohamed Kabbaj, echoing a famous phrase by Napoleon Bonaparte about war not being left to the generals. "Writers and philosophers should also have their say on the role of religion in society."

Throughout the 10-day long festival and alongside the daily concerts, Western and North African writers, artists and academics met every morning to debate various aspects related to the role of the sacred in society and the arts.
I want the event to shed light on Islam as a civilisation, not only an ideology, but as a civilisation that has philosophical, artistic, urban, architectural and humanistic sides - Faouzi Skalli, Former president of festival
When I ask Mr Kabbaj whether Morocco is in a better position than other Arab or Muslim countries to host such event, he answers with an unqualified yes. He argues that not even Turkey - a part of which is in Europe - has had Morocco's long history of close ties with Western Europe.

The Moroccan coast on the Mediterranean is only a short distance away from Europe's southern borders. Both geography and history qualify Morocco to play the role of a bridge between the East and West.
Spiritual capital

The city of Fez in particular speaks with the weight of history behind it. This year's festival coincided with Fez marking its 1,200th anniversary. The old town - were the main shows of the festival took place - is designated a world heritage site by Unesco.

Fez was for centuries the spiritual and cultural capital of Morocco and the Islamic empire that flourished in Andalusia, today's Spain, for centuries.

The city has the oldest university in the Arab and Muslim world, al-Qarawyeen. Luminaries of the golden age of Islamic civilisation, such as the Jewish philosopher Maimoindes and Ibn Khaldoun, once lived and studied here.

Against the magnificent backdrop of one of its ancient gates, Bab al-Makina, artists from Africa, Asia and America performed. The programme included for the first time joint performances of Muslim and Christian devotional music, thus underlying the fundamental message of the festival.

Sufi chants from Pakistan by Faiz Ali Faiz and his ensemble - known as the Qawwali - shared the stage with one of America's best known Gospel music artists, Craig Adams of New Orleans. It was a thrilling performance that brought together some of the most vibrant devotional music from both faiths.
Elites talking?

On a similar but less sparkling note was another joint performance the following night by Greek Orthodox choir, the Athens Tropos Byzantine Choir, with a Syrian Sufi ensemble, al-Kindi, led by Swiss convert to Islam Julien Jallaledine Weiss.

The sonorous tones of the Greek choir offered a sombre contrast to the powerful and lush Syrian orchestra in a show dubbed as Muslim and Christian homage to Mary, the mother of Jesus Christ.

But despite the lofty goals of the festival and the impressive shows put on by foreign and local groups, the event has its critics. Some say that far from being a wide open dialogue between faiths, it is in fact a narrow exchange between the liberal Moroccan elite and its Western counterpart.

But organisers say that extremists are not interested in dialogue. They also point out that efforts have been made to make the festival more inclusive by organising free concerts for Moroccans who can not afford the evening performances at Bab al-Makina, where tickets cost around $80.

Moroccan singer, Abdelwahhab al-Doukali, voiced a similar kind of criticism. Speaking to journalists ahead of his concert, Mr Doukali said local and visiting artists never get the time to really know one another and exchange views simply because of lack of resources. Visiting artists usually arrive for their performance then head home.

Cultural tourism

But a more serious criticism comes from the former president of the festival and its chief architect, Professor Faouzi Skalli of Fez University. He fears that commercial interests are driving the agenda, turning the festival into yet another tourist attraction.

Throughout the festival, a free Sufi concert is held every night - a very popular event for both Moroccans and foreign tourists.

Dr Skalli acknowledges that cultural tourism can play a role in promoting world peace, but fears that commercial interests can reduce Sufism - which he believes is a more tolerant and open interpretation of Islam - to folklore, a touristic curiosity.

This would divest the festival of its original objective of promoting better understanding between faiths, according to Dr Skalli.

To counter this tendency Faouzi Skalli has launched a new initiative, the Fez Festival for Sufi Culture.

"I want the event to shed light on Islam as a civilisation, not only an ideology, but as a civilisation that has philosophical, artistic, urban, architectural and humanistic sides," he said says.

"All of this comes from what is in fact an enormous legacy of Sufi Islam in Asia, black Africa and the Arab world. The aim is to offer a better understanding of Islam as a civilisation with its own profound ideas, its own literature and music."

The city of Fez, he says, is a microcosm of that form of civilisation, where Christians, Jews and Muslims once lived and worked together during the golden age of Islamic civilisation in the Andalus.

Language of Christ

Noting that there were hardly any Arab journalists from the Middle East to cover the event, I ask him whether the voice of Fez is loud enough to reach the eastern part of the Arab world.

He answered that it was not, because Wahhabi Islam is still dominant there. In fact, the monolithic and literalist interpretation of Islamic tradition practised in Saudi Arabia continues to gain ground among Muslims around the world because of Saudi financial muscle.

But despite the criticism it is hard to underestimate the festival's enormous potential for being a venue where creativity and faith can meet and exposure to new ideas can take place.

A performance by Lebanese singer Ghada Shubeir, (pictured above) was one to remember.

Accompanied by the Qanoon, an Arabic string instrument, she chanted Christian hymns in Syriac (a liturgical language used in some Middle Eastern churches which is related to Aramaic, the language spoken by Jesus Christ).

The performance was incredibly crisp, and its spiritual roots stretched back hundreds of years.

Ms Shubeir said after the concert it was the first time she had been invited to perform in a Muslim country.

On the sixth night of the festival, a Tunisian group put up a stunning performance in the form of a Sufi Hadra (a recital with powerful drum beats that can leave participants in a trance) mixing oriental and Western instruments such as the piano and the saxophone.

Led by Tunisian Lutfi Bushnaq the group included female performers, thus breaking with the traditional male-only ensemble for devotional music in Muslim societies.

Photo credit: Sandy McCutcheon


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Myths and Mistakes - Morocco that isn't!




One of the truly sad things about geography is that you can't just change it to suit yourself. However, when it comes to Morocco, it hasn't stopped a lot of otherwise intelligent people doing so. For example take the wonderful book by the reputable publishers Thames and Hudson, called The Flavours of Arabia. Now this is no cheap paperback but a high priced coffee-table delight. Except for one glaring mistake. The subtitle of the book is "cookery and food in the Middle East". Fine except the cover photograph shows a friend of ours standing in his shop in front of a photograph of the late King, Hassan II. Yes, in Morocco. Now last time I looked Morocco was not in the Middle East. Mind you that hasn't stopped historians, geographers and cookery books for lumping it in with the UAE and Lebanon.

Then there is the climate. Morocco is in Africa, right? And as everyone seems to think, it is always hot. Talking with the company who runs the biggest and best accommodation service for Fez ( fes riads ) they tell me that they often get requests for riads with swimming pools at Christmas time. Well, they are welcome to swim, but do watch out for hypothermia as temperatures can get below freezing for a couple of months around Christmas and it snows. Yes, snow in Morocco.

While we are banging on about myths - take the recent post on a little blog called Morocco Travel Information whose claim is: A Morocco travel guide with historical, cultural and geographical information about Morocco, including sightseeing suggestions and more. Fine, except that they posted this astonishing post: I'm in Agadir, Morocco at the moment. It's a small town on the Pacific about four hours south of Marrakech. On the Pacific, eh? Must be something to do with global warming....

If it wasn't so silly, you would have to laugh.

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Thursday, June 26, 2008

11th Gnaoua World Music Festival in Essaouira





Half a million visitors are expected to attend the 11th Gnaoua world Music Festival, which kicked off on Thursday. Each year it is bigger and better and the reason for that according to festival director, Neila Tazi?

How to describe the energy and motivation we find each year to put on the Essaouira Gnawa and World Music Festival? From all over the world come musicians and the public, eager to join in this unique celebration.

We are driven by our passion for music and genuine encounters, our desire to preserve some innocence and dreams in a harsh world. For four days we create a world with values we believe in: simplicity and the basic things in life.

Artists have a gift for reminding us that being kind, taking the time to listen to others and loving one another are at the very heart of our lives. Songs urging us to stop creating discord and helping those in need are sending us messages of wisdom and peace.



The Gnaoua Festival plans to surprise its faithful and cosmopolitan audience this year. Crossing the symbolic course of 10 years and 500 000 festival-goers, the festival is offering a rich programme, reaffirming its incentive to emphasize the Gnaoua heritage in all its varieties and to invite the best world and jazz artists to come and perform in the unique and magical town of Essaouira.

The festival will first honour the gnaoua musicians with a new stage, which is dedicated to them at Bab Doukkala, allowing the ardent supporters of the Gnaoua rhythms to meet with the stars, from Hamid El Kasri to Abdelkébir Merchane, for 100 % Gnaoua concerts, as well as the traditional lilas in the exceptional Gnaoua Zaouia every evening at midnight for the purists.

World and jazz musicians will perform every evening on the stage of Bab Sebaa, offering a combination of the best current sounds: from the unexpected Trio Joubran, featuring three oud-playing brothers, to the English genius of bluesman Justin Adams, as well as the incredible Toumani Diabaté and the Korean traditional percussions of the Salmunori Group.

The Moulay Hassan stage will receive today’s most famous groups of very diverse styles, from the bubbling jazz of Eric Legnini to KyMani Marley’s reggae as well as the well-known jazzman Wayne Shorter and his quartet. Crowning this exceptional programme off: a concert by the National Orchestra of Barbès, a real ‘musical pot’, at the closing of the festival on Sunday. Moulay Hassan will also be the meeting place of Gnaoua and World music for fusion concerts, where new sounds arise from the meeting of the guembri and castanets with the finest instruments from all over the world: percussion, trumpet, saxophone, kora, piano …

On the smaller stages in the medina, the new generation of maâlems, embodied by Saïd Boulhimas who was sensational last year during the concert of the" Band of Gnaoua ", will accompany the established maâlems such as Allal Soudani, Saïd El Bourqui and Abdeslam Belghiti, to offer to the festival-goers the best Gnaoua music during both the day and evening concerts. Still in the same spirit of open dialogue established by the Festival, the Al Khayma place and the Marché des Grains will also be open to other traditional Moroccan musical genres - Ganga, Haddarates and Hmadcha.

Fans of electronic fusion and contemporary Moroccan music will be thrilled by two dedicated areas: the Pepsi stage and the Méditel stage.

10 concert sites from which everyone can choose according to their taste, 10 different but complementary programs forming the details of a unique puzzle, that of a pioneering and cosmopolitan festival. The quality of the music which has long won its spurs, will be as excellent as ever and the festival will once again meet the challenge to touch hundreds of thousands of people with the sounds of the most wonderful music!

In a nutshell.

Themed "a new decade of musical sharing and vibrations," the event, which runs until Sunday, features several artists from around the world, such as Wayne Shorter, Mustapha Bakbou, Hamid El Kasri, Allal Soudani, Abdelkébir Merchane, Mahmoud Guinea and Omar Hayat.

Also expected to appear are Justin Adams, Toumani Diabaté, Joubrane brothers, Korean band "Samulnori Molgae", Eric Legnini and Ky-Mani Marley.


Gnaoua are the descendents of slaves originating from Black Africa, who established brotherhoods throughout Morocco. They are made up of master musicians (maâlem), metal castanet players, clairvoyants, mediums and their followers.


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Export of Moroccan Oranges drops 2.5%


Moroccan Oranges - mouthwatering!

Export of Moroccan citrus decreased by 2,5% last season. 570,000 tons were exported against 584,000 tons last year. The small citrus decreased from 316,000 tons to 272,000 tons, being a decrease of 14%. The Clementine and the Nour, both being regarded as small citrus, decreased from 210,000 tons to 182,000 tons (-10%) and from 92,000 tons to 60,000 tons (-35%) respectively.

Oranges showed an increase in general (+8%) from 265,000 tons to 284,000 tons.
The most important variety is Maroc Late showing an increase of 9%. 168,000 tons of this were exported this year, whilst last year this was 156,000 tons.
More than 50% of the citrus export went to Eastern Europe this year, followed by the EU with 35%, which went mainly to France, Germany and Great Britain. Citrus was also exported to the United States and Asia. Tests are being undertaken in Asia, mainly in China and Japan.

The decrease of Moroccan citrus is the result of heavy competition of Spanish, Turkish and Egyptian varieties. Especially the Egyptian competition is very agressive and as a result very competitive prices are winning more and more influence on Eastern European markets.

In order to assist the Moroccan growers Aspam and the Moroccan Government signed a contract agreement during April. The program aims to reach a production of 2,8 million tons in 2020, this being an increase of 130%. Export will have to increase by 150% to 1,3 million tons in 2020. On the local market 1,4 million tons will have to be traded. In order to reach these targets 30,000 ha of orchards will have to be renewed and 20,000 ha of new trees be planted.

Photo credit Sandy McCutcheon

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Wednesday, June 25, 2008

In her own words - Kleo from Dar Attajalli


Restoring and renovating a house in the Fès Medina is not for the faint hearted as anyone who has done it will tell you. Over the last few years The View from Fez has brought you stories of the trials and tribulations of the new Medina dwellers and now it is timely to have a look at those who have done the hard work. Regular readers will be familiar with Kleo Brunn (see one of our earlier stories here: "Kleo with a K"). Recently we caught up with Kleo and asked her how things have turned out. Here is what she has to say...


Kleo Brunn

In the heart of the fascinating Medina of Fez, Morocco’s oldest imperial city, in a unique location in a quiet alleyway and within 5 minutes of a guarded parking-lot you find the guest house Dar Attajalli. Only some steps away are the historical sights and lively alleys of the bazaar where spices, antiques and perfumes of the Orient are offered for sale.


This historic house which has been home to the Alaouites descendants is a small palace and architectural jewel. Careful and meticulous restoration with natural materials and a lot of heart and soul of the German proprietor brought Dar Attajalli back to its former splendour.


Let yourself be enchanted in this oasis of tranquillity by the gentle ripple of the courtyard fountain and the scent of cedar wood. Enjoy the amazing mosaic, plaster and wood work and the stunning mural fountain in the courtyard.


Together with the individual suites, you can chill in the classy “salon marocain” with a book from the library or using the internet. Go upstairs to enjoy the rooftop winter garden with its tea kitchen and dining area, or lounge on the ample roof terrace with its lush flora and stunning view over the magical medina.


Dar Attajalli offers 4 tastefully furnished and exquisitely decorated suites each of which has its own unique personality, style and colour. All guest accommodations include private en suite bathrooms. To ensure you sleep soundly we have provided high quality bed linen and extra long mattresses.


The copious breakfast as well as the food in general is organic, locally sourced, fresh and first choice quality.

Contact details:
(Please note that Kleo is having a summer break and will be happy to respond in September!
)

Dar Attajalli
2, Derb Qattana
Zqaq Rommane
30200 Fès

Maroc


contact@attajalli.com
www.attajalli.com

Photo credits: Tom Fakler - interiors. photo of Kleo - Sandy McCutcheon

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The rocky road to Amazigh television.


There are an estimated 23 million Amazigh, the majority of whom are Sunni Muslim . The largest populations are in Morocco and Algeria, in addition to smaller numbers in Tunisia, Libya and Egypt. The Amazigh have been living in North Africa for nearly 4,000 years. Some 75 percent of the Moroccan population is Amazigh who say their language and culture are not properly acknowledged by the authorities and this has caused friction with the Moroccan government.

They were named Berber by the Arab invaders, but this is perceived as a derogatory term. Now,according to a story published on The Media Line, representatives of Morocco’s Amazigh community are demanding they be granted larger representation in the Moroccan broadcast media.

A joint statement from several rights organizations said they were protesting against what they called a perpetual policy of discrimination and marginalization from the government. According to the statement, “Officials are insisting on not fulfilling their obligations as far as the existing television station programming is concerned.”

Morocco’s Ministry of Communication promised that an Amazigh television channel could be set up during 2007 but several obstacles have prevented this plan from being realized. Moroccan authorities say the money allocated for this purpose, some 160 million dirhams ($21 million) is not enough to establish a professional high-quality channel.

Officials, they say, maintain the programming is of low quality, that there is a shortage of journalistic staff and that there is no agreement on the language that will be applied in this programming. The Amazigh say all these reasons are baseless.

Thanks to The Media Line.

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Imam causes stir over TV remarks.




While most people agree that Fez is a conservative city a local imam has gone too far according to some locals. The imam in Fez has caused controversy by making remarks in contradiction of Moroccan law and the 2005 reforms of Moroccan family law (known as the Mudawana) when he suggested that a European who converts in order to marry then abandons Islam should be killed.

In an interview broadcast on Arabic satellite TV network al-Arabiya Sheikh Mohammed al-Tawil pointed out that marriages between Moroccan women and European men who are not Muslims are forbidden under Islam. "This kind of marriage, between Moroccan women and European men, is forbidden by the Qu'ran and the Sunna," the imam said."A Muslim woman may not marry an unbeliever while a Muslim man may marry Christian and Jewish women."

However, according to al-Tawil, Moroccan women may however marry European men who convert to Islam shortly before the wedding. "Islam only required two witnesses for someone to be able to convert and such a marriage is valid," he said. "If a European then decides to abandon Islam, Mohammed's words apply to him: those who renounce their own religion must be killed, as they are an apostate."

It is this last statement that has been condemned but fortunately such views are not widely held and the tide of history is on the side of the Family Law -each summer in a growing number of local women are reportedly marrying young European men. Almost 6,000 such marriages were registered in Morocco in 2007, almost all of them in the summer - an almost six-fold increase over the previous decade.

A total 4,320 Moroccan men married foreign women last year.

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Cherry Festival Fashion @ the Clock!




Join us this Saturday at 6pm for the premiere of Clock Couture. Designer of Sefrou's 2008 Cherry Festival fashion show, Nany Cherise brings to Clock's catwalk her latest contemporary line of bespoke Moroccan tailoring. Free!


Saturday 28 June : 10 a.m. – 12 a.m.
Clock Language Conversation Group : French
50 Dh ( Discount Vouchers Available)

Saturday 28 June : 6 p.m.
Clock Couture : Fashion Show
( Free )

Saturday 28 June : 4:00 p.m
Introduction to Moroccan Arabic.
This lecture will focus on basic Moroccan Arabic (Darija) and
practical information on Moroccan culture. Basic greetings,
introductions and pleasantries will be taught and their origins
explained, as well as gestures and mealtime etiquette.
Sabul Assalam Centre and Clock Culture
( 25 dh )

Sunday 29 June : 3 – 5 p.m.
Calligraphy @ the Clock : Discover the sacred art of arabic
calligraphy with artist and teacher Mohamed Charkaoui.
(New price - 250 dh : Discounts Available)

Sunday 29 June : 6 – 7:30 p.m Sunday Sunset Concert
Abdlewahed : Flamenco guitar ( 20 dh )

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The 13th Rabat Film Festival


The 13th edition of Rabat's "auteur cinema festival" kicked off with tributes to Adel Imam and Ahmed Bouaanani. All this at a time when Moroccan cinemas are closing their doors due to lack of interest by movie-goers and despite an increase in national production. A study released by the Moroccan Film Centre prior to the festival showed nearly 60% of Moroccans do not go to the cinema. The Renaissance cinema in Rabat, which closed in February, is expected to re-open in July to mark the end of the auteur cinema festival.

The 13th Auteur Cinema Festival in Rabat kicked off on June 21st with tributes to the famous Egyptian actor Adel Imam (pictured above) and renowned Moroccan director Ahmed Bouaanani.
who were welcomed with a standing ovation from the audience at the Mohammed V Theatre in Rabat. Imam, who starred in numerous comedies both on the silver screen and the stage, is one of the best known actors in the Arab world. Some of his latest films poked fun at the Islamist mindsets in Egypt. Bouaanani is a pioneer of Moroccan auteur cinema. Scheduled to run for 11 days, the festival will also feature sessions on Turkish auteur filmmaker Nuri Bilgecenan and the French version of the genre by Philippe Fauc. The programme plans to act as a window onto world cinema, with films from twelve countries, as well as several Maghreb masterpieces cinema.

Speaking at the tribute ceremony, Imam described the art of filmmaking as the conscience of nations and peoples, representing a bulwark against all forms of extremism. He said he was happy with the tribute, which coincides with the celebration of a century of film-making in Egypt.

Festival chairman Abdelhak Mantrache described Rabat's auteur cinema yearly event as a key event for Moroccan and international film fans, especially since the inauguration of the Grand Prix Hassan II award. He also said that the city plans to turn this auteur cinema festival into an international meeting since this film genre embodies the values of modernity and cultural pluralism.

According to the Ministry of Communication, the festival will earn the Moroccan capital a name as a meeting-place for arts and cultures.

Twenty films will participate in the auteur cinema competition, including two from Morocco. The jury will be presided over by Morocco's Abdelmajid Archich, with 8 other members from Greece, Spain, France, Iran, Guinea and Morocco.

Workshops for young film makers.

Michel Alexandre from France and Moroccans Ali Safi and Hatim Belaabass will host two workshops for young filmmakers on screenwriting and documentary film making respectively.


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Tuesday, June 24, 2008

National Festival of Amazigh Culture




The fourth annual Festival of Amazigh Culture will be held in Fez from 3-6 July. Directed by Dr Moha Ennaji, Director of Arab Studies at Rutgers University in the US and full professor at Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdellah University, the Festival comprises a conference and a cultural programme.

Moha Ennaji

On January 8, 808, Moulay Idriss II initiated the building of Fez, thereby laying the foundation for the modern state of Morocco. Himself the fruit of an Arab-Amazigh marriage, he embodied one of the constants of the Moroccan personality that marks the rich and complex history of its extraordinary cultural heritage.
The Festival is organised by the Fes Saiss Association and the Spirit of Fes Foundation in partnership with the Royal Institute of AmazigheCulture, the BMCE Foundation and the South North Centre, and has as its theme '1200 years of Symbiosis and Unity of Moroccan People'. It aims to highlight the historic and social significance of Arab-Amazigh cultural dialogue and the role of culture in the process of democratisation, with plans to consolidate intercultural dialogue, social cohesion and a democratic culture.

Here is the programme of music, poetry and exhibitions:

Thursday 3 July
21h00 at Bab Makina
Amel Tafsout (USA)
Djemal Allam (France)

Friday 4 July
19h30 at Boujloud Square
Abder Oulahlou (Algeria)
Cherifa Kersit (Morocco)

21h00 at Bab Makina
Mohamed Mabrouk (Morocco)
Amazigh Costumes display
Oussan Troupe (Lybia)

Saturday 5 July
18h00at Saadiens Sports Centre
Fantasia

19h30 at Boujloud Square
Amarg Fusion (Morocco)

21h00 at Bab Makina
Fatima Tabaamrant (Morocco)

Sunday 6 July
16h00 at Al Houria Complex
Play 'Tillas' (Association Tafoukt)

18h00 Saadiens Sports Centre
Fantasia

19h30 at Boujloud Square
Saida Titrit (Morocco)
Giuanne di Thiesi Troupe (Italy)

21h00 at Bab Makina
Moha Ou Lhoussein Achiban, Ahidous (Morocco)
Mustapha Oumguil (Morocco)

Exhibitions at the Palais du Congres:
books, Amazigh carpets, ceramics and art
Exhibitions at Bab Makina: art by young painters, Amazigh carpets, jewellery and art

The International Conference will take place at the Palais du Congres. For more information and the conference programme, see the website http://y.ennaji.free.fr/festivalamazigh/accueil.htm



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Monday, June 23, 2008

TUI Travel buys 60% of Jet4you


German Carrier TUI Travel has acquired 60% of the shares of the Moroccan low-cost carrier "Jet4you". According to a Jet4you official, the shares purchase came following a partnership agreement between the two parties.

According to the same source, TUI travel could not buy more than 50% of the Moroccan company before Morocco ratified the Open Sky agreement, which allowed Moroccan and European airport authorities to let TUI be part of Jet4you shareholders.

Since its inauguration flight on February 26, 2006 the company has serviced 679 flights linking the cities of Marrakech, Fès and Agadir to Paris-Orly, and Marrakech to Nantes and Bordeaux. The company has flown some 92,255 passengers, reaching a 79% seat fill capacity and a 72% punctuality rate.

TUI Travel PLC is an international leisure travel company, operating in 180 countries and serving 30m customers. It is headquartered in Crawley, West Sussex, England. It was created by a merger of the tourism division of TUI AG, which owns 51% of the company, and First Choice Holidays PLC. TUI AG is an internationally active group with the sectors of tourism and shipping. In both these divisions TUI commands a leading market position: number 1 among the European travel companies and number 5 in the world of container shipping. In the financial year 2007 the turnover of TUI AG was €21.9 billion with total earnings of €616 million (underlying EBITA). On 31 December 2007 the headcount totalled 68,500 employees.


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Sunday, June 22, 2008

Marrakech palm groves under threat


The famous Marrakech palm groves - once a magical oasis of flowers, animals and farmers - are shrinking as drought and development take their toll. According to Alfred de Montesquiou, writing in the Houston Chronicle, the impact of mass tourism and investment by jet-setters, Paris glitterati and some 16,000 other foreigners now with second homes in and around Marrakech, has been to increase some land prices by 100% in a decade.


Although the site is listed as World Heritage its swaying palms are yellowing and sickly, parched by drought that climate change experts predict may worsen as the planet warms. Here is an excerpt from Montesquiou's article.

Government-encouraged mass tourism, land developers, golf courses and rich Europeans' closed-off luxury villas are squeezing out farmers from the grove. For generations, farming families here lived almost in symbiosis with the palms, harvesting their fruit and shelter while tending to the trees. Most now have gone or been evicted, pushed out by lack of work or tourism driving land prices up.

The pace of destruction is staggering.

In 1929, Morocco's then-French rulers measured the palm grove at about 40,000 acres — an area nearly 50 times that of New York's Central Park. By 1998, it had declined to nearly 30,000 acres. Since then, the grove has shrunk by nearly half, to an estimated 16,000 to 19,000 acres. Water is a major problem, for both the trees and the people who have long lived under them.

Staggering prices


Marrakech has become a top tourism destination. Even small plots in the palm grove now fetch as much as $1.5 million, creating pressure to sell to promoters. "Even one century of cultivation couldn't match the price owners can get for their land," says Youssef Sfairi, head of a nongovernment group trying to preserve the grove. His association, Amal Palmeraie, would translate from French and Arabic as "Hope for the Palm Grove."

As a UNESCO heritage site, the grove is supposed to be protected by Morocco. Marrakech City Hall, Morocco's government and private partners have committed the equivalent of $13 million to replant 400,000 palm trees by 2012.
The plan, launched by Morocco's King Mohammed VI and headed by one of his sisters, has already brought the number of palm trees from 100,000 in 2006 to over 260,000, but most of the new trees are being planted in touristic zones near Marrakech instead of throughout the palm grove.



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Saturday, June 21, 2008

Travel Writing about Morocco - #20



The upsurge in interest in Morocco among Americans is continuing. Despite the weak US dollar, the number of visitors is up and the hits on The View from Fez coming from the United States is growing daily. Also on the increase is the number of stories in the US media and the quality of the writing, while not outstanding, is at least conveying useful information.

Jude Townend, writing in the Orange County Register, has this to say...

Morocco is probably best-known to American travelers for cities like Fez, Casablanca and Marrakech. But this country in the northwest corner of Africa is actually a place of dramatic variety. On a two-week or even one-week visit, it's feasible to fit in a trip to a major city or two, in addition to exploring rural areas.

You might explore undulating desert dunes, the magnificent Atlas Mountains, or a tranquil beach like those found near Agadir. Or visit the Volubilis Roman ruins near Meknes, the dinosaur footprints near Azilal, or eerily quiet Berber villages around Imlil, at the base of Mount Toubkal.

The ancient city of Fez is known for its architecture, alluring medina (the old part of the city) and Karaouine Mosque and University, dating from 859. In Marrakech, by day you can explore the Saadian tombs and the luscious Marjorelle Garden, and by night the famous Djemaa El Fna square, with its food stalls, entertainers and peddlers.

In Casablanca, the modern, giant Hassan II mosque looks like it's melting into the sea at sunset. And for fans of the famous 1942 Humphrey Bogart movie, head to Rick's Cafe, opened by American Kathy Kriger in 2004, a marvelous evocation of the film.

Despite State Department travel cautions on potential terrorism, the number of American visitors to Morocco is slowly increasing. In 2007, 131,000 Americans visited, up 13 percent from 2006. The country is a popular destination with European travelers.

"Americans like Morocco – they get a taste of the Arabic world, without having to go to the Middle East," said Yassine Naciri, a hotel worker in Marrakech,


Read Jude's article here: Medieval to Modern in Morocco.


Photo credits: Sandy McCutcheon

Travelers to Morocco must possess a passport valid for six months from the date of entry into the country. Visas are not required for American tourists traveling in Morocco for less than 90 days.

For longer stays, Americans are required to obtain a residence permit and a special visa. For additional information, travellers should contact the Embassy of Morocco, 1601 21st St. N.W. Washington, D.C. 20009. or phone (202) 462-7979


Check out our earlier travel writing stories:

Travel Writing Nineteen
Travel Writing Eighteen
Travel Writing Seventeen
Travel writing Sixteen.
Travel Writing Fifteen.
Travel Writing Fourteen.
Travel Writing Thirteen.
Travel Writing Twelve.
Travel Writing Eleven.
Travel Writing Ten.
Travel Writing Nine
Travel writing eight
Travel writing Seven
Travel Writing Six
Travel Writing Five
Travel Writing Four
Travel Writing Three
Travel Writing Two
Travel Writing One

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Friday, June 20, 2008

Human Rights in Morocco


Since King Mohammed VI acceded to the throne in 1999, Morocco has made important progress in promoting democracy and respect for human rights - Observatory for the Protection of Human Rights Defenders.

In its annual report 2007 about the situation of human rights in the world, issued on Thursday in Geneva, the observatory, a joint programme of the International Federation for Human Rights (FIDH) and the World Organisation Against Torture (OMCT), underlined that "the reform of the Family Code (moudawana) in 2004 was one of the reforms undertaken by Morocco."

"The introduction of legislative reforms and the establishment of the Equity and Reconciliation Commission (Instance équité et reconciliation - IER) in January 2004 have also been marks of the profound change the country has experienced in recent years," said the report.

The document recalled that the goal of this commission was to provide a global policy for the issue of the serious human rights violations committed between 1956, the date of independence, and 1999, the date of the creation of the Independent Arbitration Commission, whose only mandate was that of compensation for victims. It added that "after two years of work, the IER presented its recommendations to the King, who ordered the immediate publication of the final report and entrusted the Advisory Council on Human Rights (Conseil consultatif des droits humains - CCDH) with its implementation."

Since then, compensation and health care has been put into effect for nearly 10,000 victims recognized by the IER, as has a programme of community reparation for regions and communities collectively affected by serious human rights violations, the report concluded.


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Thursday, June 19, 2008

Beautification of the Medina



There's lots of work going on in the medina, particularly in Serrajine near Bab Boujloud where all the pavement restaurants are, and along Rue de la Poste. Lumen takes a look:


Walls are being rebuilt with traditional bricks and then coated with harch and mahtoub. The result is very good.

Mamounie, or wooden trellis work is also being added, giving the street welcome shade. The old bamboo mamounie has been replaced with wood in the Attarine district of Tala'a Kebira, too, and looks very much better.


Pavement cafes at Serrajine

And the repair and refurbishing of the city walls continues apace. Down at Bab Guissa, the 12th century gate is undergoing renovation. The project of restoring six kilometres of the historic city walls and beautifying the infrastructure has been going on now for some 18 months and is estimated to cost 2.3 million US$. The aim is to improve the living conditions of the people living in the Medina, enhance the city's architecture and promote tourism in Fez.

Bab Guissa gets a revamp


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Summer Jam Festival in Casablanca



From midday to midnight of 5 July, the Summer Jam Festival will take place at the RUC Stadium in Casablanca.

Busta Rymes (above) from the USA will feature, along with a multitude of international stars such as Kelly Rowland, Fat Joe, Rim'k, Kat de Luna, Mohammed Lamine, Imad Kotbi, DJ Scream, DJ Youness B, Sammy A and Majd.

Aimed at Moroccan youth who don't get to see many live events, the concert features artists often heard on radio or seen on TV. The stadium holds 30 000 people, on the grass or in the stands.

Details:
Tickets: Dh200, VIP tickets Dh400 and VIP Gold tickets Dh600
Doors open at 09h00
Concert starts at midday and ends at midnight
Website: www.summerjamfestival2008.com



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Medina flowers



Some time ago, Fez Riads took on the task of transforming a drab medina square into a garden. The project is now complete.

Kissariat Sanhaji before ...

The traditional guesthouses that are represented on the Fez Riads website donate 2% of their guests' accommodation bill to finance projects in the medina. The guests are happy to know that some of their money is going towards such projects, and the guesthouses feel that they are making a contribution to the community in which they operate.

... and after

Ricky Martin has been responsible for composting and replenishing the concrete flower boxes with earth, and planting the bushes and trees. Ricky has a wonderful rooftop garden of his own at his house in Asilah and friends who saw it encouraged him to offer his talents for their own terraces. He now has several projects on the go and some very happy clients. Contact The View from Fez if you'd like to know more.

Ricky Martin

People who live around Kissariat Sanhaji are delighted with their new garden and sit out in the evenings to admire it. They are also fiercely protective of the plants and keen to water the garden. The next part of the project is to provide a lockable tap outside the barber's shop so that shopowners are not inconvenienced when the plants need watering.


Fez Riads thanks all the guesthouses for their generosity.

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Child Labour - Morocco takes more action.


According to Employment and Vocational Training Minister, Jamal Rhmani, some 3,367 children were removed from the job market, while some 13,126 others were taken care of in 2007. Speaking at the House of Advisors' question time, Mr. Rhmani said government programmes, carried out in conjunction with the international programme for the Elimination of Child labour, have also supported income-generating activities for the families of these children, whose number reached 600 in 2007.

Legislative and awareness-raising measures, in addition to field programs have helped Morocco achieve progress in fighting the phenomenon of child labour, he said.

According to official figures, the number of working children under 15 in Morocco is estimated at around 177,000.


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Wednesday, June 18, 2008

Death mars afterglow of Fez Festival.


Teklidi (traditional) rap artist Hicham Belkas, from the popular band Fnaïre sustained a fatal head while driving home to Marrakesh from the Fes Sacred Music Festival.


The 4x4 in which he was travelling overturned in a ravine and hit a tree. Authorities said the 23-year-old died after he was taken to the Ghassani hospital. Three other group members reportedly suffered minor injuries. At the time of the accident, Fnaïre were on their way home to Marrakesh after performing at the Sacred Music Festival in Fes on Friday and Saturday nights. The chairman of the festival went to the hospital to offer assistance upon learning of the accident, officials said.


Fnaïre have become extremely popular among young people not only for their accessible lyrics, but for their blending of modern and traditional music. Their performance that we saw at the Festival was a great success.

PERCEPTIONS OF MOROCCO - AMERICAN RAPPER HAS HIS 50 CENTS WORTH.

When you think of Morocco, you think of belly dancers and shit, but it wasn’t anything like that. The area we were in was war-torn.

Watching a recent in-flight movie on Emirates, I was struck by the line ... "The Moroccans are harbouring terrorists.." Sure it was only a film, fiction... but that kind of inaccurate and cheap jibe can have consequences.

And how about the rapper 50 cents who was struck by the war-torn setting of the location in Morocco and took shots he handed over to game director Aaron Blean when he was creating 50’s new battle video, Blood On The Sand.



Some of my experiences while filming in Morocco really stuck with me. When you think of Morocco, you think of belly dancers and shit, but it wasn’t anything like that. The area we were in was war-torn. I took a lot of photos, and I ended up giving them to the video game developers.” - Oh we can't wait, 50.



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