Friday, April 30, 2010

The trouble with Tripadvisor



“Find write-ups by professionals whose judgments you trust and rely on that. . . . I would never rely on the judgment of amateurs.” - Arthur Frommer, founder of Frommer’s travel guide laying it on the line about Tripadvisor.

Over the last few days The View from Fez has been emailed by several riad and guest house owners with comments about problems with Tripadvisor.

Here is what one correspondent had to say: "Let's say you open a new guesthouse in Fez (or indeed, anywhere) and of course you want it to do well. So you get all your family and friends to write in to Tripadvisor to say what a marvellous place it is. But then your next-door neighbour opens a guesthouse too, so you get all your family and friends to write in to Tripadvisor again, to tell them what an awful place that is. In a nutshell, Tripadvisor can be manipulated. I'd say heed the warnings, but take the gushings with a pinch of salt."

And another one: "I have just booked with a place "Riad ....".Stupidly I read the reviews on Tripadviser, and 100% disagree with what was said. It was the most appalling stay anywhere. Just wondering if the Riad's reputation is common knowledge, I would really appreciate it, if you had any thoughts on it"

The well known travel magazine Travel & Leisure has published on “Who can you trust,” detailing fake negative and positive reviews appearing on tripadvisor.com for New York hotel that had not yet opened! As travel blog beatofhawaii.com has noted “Perhaps TripAdvisor’s motto, 'get the truth, then go,' needs to be changed to, 'try to find the truth, and go.'”

Award-winning business journalist Barbara E. Hernandez, writing on Bnet, has this to say: I think most people understand that these Web sites which solicit volunteered comments often cater to those with the most extreme views on either end — it skews to people who really liked the place or really disliked it. In some instances, where the negative reviews were unfair, the hotel owner may feel there’s no alternative but to post to try to balance out the review. But that, is a slippery slope.

One of the big problems TripAdvisor is having is that hotel employees are posting negative reviews of competing hotels simply to lower their rankings. Other companies are offering public relations “services” to improve or inflate rankings. It’s no surprise then that TripAdvisor has a warning sticker near these hotels. As always, buyer beware.


Even more bizarre is a report from the New York Times: One recent TripAdvisor review of the agrotourism destination Schrute Farms awarded four stars, lavishly praising the food, while another yielded just one star, casting aspersions on the owners’ sanity. This wild disparity is especially odd because Schrute Farms doesn’t even exist.

The farm “belongs” to Dwight Schrute of the NBC series “The Office” 


The Times of London has kept a keen eye on tripadvisor.com and other travel "review" sites:

These examples are just the tip of an iceberg. The entire industry of reviewing hotels and restaurants is in the midst of a revolution that risks leading customers up the path to Fawlty Towers.

The traditional published guides, often compiled by independent inspectors, are struggling, while online sites where checks are few are proliferating.

A London Sunday Times investigation has shown:

1) “Guests” who have never even stayed at a hotel can boost or depress its rating by posting fake reviews.

2) Poorly rated establishments can lift their reputations from one to four stars in a matter of hours by posting fictional positive reviews.

3) Some establishments attempt to damage the reputations of rivals. So tough is the competition that even top hotels and restaurants would consider placing fake reviews to maintain their status.

The best advice is to remember that real travel guides have traditionally been compiled by professional writers who visit hotels and restaurants incognito and fiercely guard their impartiality. There are some great guides around, so if you are planing a trip to Morocco, we suggest you go get one and save yourself the possibility of misleading information.

Moroccan Photography Competition #22

"Caro on the scales" - Photographer Chris Gilchrist


Thursday, April 29, 2010

Sting in Morocco!



"Morocco will get the foretaste of my upcoming world tour with the Royal Philharmonic Concert Orchestra of England," British musician, singer, songwriter, activist, actor and philanthropist, Sting said on Tuesday. Omar Er-rouch reports from Rabat.

"In the Mawazine festival in Morocco, I'll be playing with the Moroccan Royal Symphony Orchestra and it will be the foretaste of my upcoming world tour," Sting announced during a live call conference from New York City.


The rock legend, whose newest passion is the orchestra, will be touring the world as of June accompanied by the Royal Philharmonic Concert Orchestra. A tour that will run through Christmas.

The Moroccan symphony orchestra "have already the arrangements and they are practicing. By the time, I'll get there, everything will be working well," the Inductee on the Hollywood Walk of Fame said.

Mawazine Festival: big rendezvous, big names

The British singer said the Mawazine Festival Rhythms of the World has become an important rendezvous that attracts big names. "I know some big names will be playing there: Carlos Santana, Stevie Wonder, Elton John," he underlined.

"I know I will be in a good company," he said. Other names such as Micheal Bublé, Harry Connick Jr and BB King will also be on the different stages of the festival, which will run from May 21 through 29.

The 59-year-old singer said the festival is "an opportunity for meeting music from around the world." "Modern music will be mingled with Arabic music, Rai music, so we'll get a flavour of North Africa."

“I’m very much looking forward and excited to appear before the Moroccan public,” he said, adding that the festival gives him a “very good experience to work with the Royal Symphony orchestra of Morocco. A new experience.”

Gordon Matthew Thomas Sumner, better known by his stage name Sting, will be playing selections from across his career, including such Police classics as “Roxanne,” “Next To You,” “Every Little Thing She Does Is Magic” “Every Breath You Take,” along with solo favourites including “Englishman In New York,” “Fragile,” “Russians,” “If I Ever Lose My Faith In You,” “Fields Of Gold,” and “Desert Rose.”

Morocco, a good setting for clip shooting

“Morocco is a good location for clip shooting,” Sting said. “light is beautiful, the weather is beautiful, the architecture is beautiful,” he added. Talking about the possibility to shoot a video clip in Morocco, Sting said that “it’s something possible. I love the country; it is picturesque and beautiful.”

“I’ve spent a lot of time in Morocco, I have been to Rabat, Marrakech and Casablanca,” the rock star said. “I’m very familiar with the people, they’re very friendly, a great audience,” he added. “I like coming to Morocco, I have been there several times, I came on holidays many times. I have many friends. I’m looking forward to it,” Sting said.

“I have a relationship with music in North Africa, it tastes greatly,” Sting said, adding that “I love Darbouka.”

Talking about Arabic music, he recalled his duo experience with Cheb Mami in “Desert Rose”, saying that it “was very successful.”

The winner of sixteen Grammy Award said that he has no other projects of duos with Arab singers for the moment, but it’s something that can happen. “You never know,” he underlined.
He also noted that the way Arab musicians sing is very interesting, adding that “it’s a difficult skill, it’s something that I want to learn, I enjoy learning things.”

Sting and Royal Philharmonic Concert Orchestra to tour the world

Sting will be hitting the road for a world tour this summer accompanied by the Royal Philharmonic Concert Orchestra, performing his most celebrated songs re-imagined for symphonic arrangement. The Royal Philharmonic Concert Orchestra will be conducted by Maestro Steven Mercurio.

The tour kicks off on June 2nd in Vancouver and will perform in New York, Boston, Dallas, Houston, Philadelphia, Portland, Seattle, and Washington before returning back to Canada, with stops in Toronto and Montreal. The tour will take him also throughout the UK and Europe.

English native Sting has been at the forefront of rock and pop music for almost forty years. He started as a lead singer and bassist with rock/pop band “The Police”, and he has also achieved great success as a solo artist.

Composer, singer, actor, activist Sting has won universal acclaim in all these roles, but he defies any easy labelling. He’s best described as an adventurer, a risk-taker. As he himself said, “I love to put myself in new situations. I’m not afraid to be a beginner.”

Husband and father of six, masterful guitarist and bassist, a devoted Yoga practitioner, and now a writer who published his memoirs in 2004, Sting has made a career, in fact, of new beginnings.

Details:  9th Mawazine World Rhythms Festival, Morocco, May 21st-29th 2010


Moroccan Photography Competition #21


Toubkal (normal South Cwm route) with Timesguida and Ras Ouanoukrim in the back right - Photographer - Des Clarke

If you would like to submit a   photograph  taken in Morocco, please email it in jpeg or gif format to fes.riad@gmail.com and put "photo entry" in the subject line.



A  regularly updated collection of all the  photographs is now available   on The  View from Fez Photo  Journal


Wednesday, April 28, 2010

Rick's Cafe, Casablanca

UPDATE: November 26  2012 - the 70th anniversary of the film Casablanca - Have a great night in Casablanca at Rick's ! (See our latest 70th anniversary story here)

"Come to Casablanca and live the dream", says Kathy Kriger, owner of Rick's Cafe in Casablanca. And if you're a fan of the film, it's a wonderful way to spend an evening.



Now into it's seventh year, Rick's has become an institution in the city. The mythical saloon from the 1942 film Casablanca is housed in a beautiful art deco building built against the walls of the old medina, and has been styled to look just like the movie. Sculpted arches, Syrian brass lamps with beads and plants create a superb atmosphere, and of course, there's a pianist - not Sam, but Issam, from Rabat. The film plays silently on screens on the first floor, adding to the ambiance.


But it's not just some touristy gimmick - the setting is excellent, service superior, and best of all, the food at Rick's is some of the best in the whole of Morocco. The menu specialises in Casablanca's fresh fish, vegetables and fruit.

Rick's Cafe owner, Kathy Kriger

"When I was planning it, I described Rick's Café as more than a restaurant and bar", says Kathy Kriger, an American woman who's lived in Morocco for 12 years. "It captured my passion for architectural preservation, decoration, food, music and entertaining - and got built because of my perserverance and optimism. The development took two years - lots of laughter, lots of tears, and opened on March 1, 2004 to rave reviews. Rick's Cafe was already an institution thanks to the immortal film Casablanca, and the spirit of Rick's has some of the mythical quality of the movie".

Play it, Issam!

Recently The View from Fez Tour of Morocco chose Rick's as the venue for their final night in Morocco. It was an evening to remember with great service and ambiance as well as superb cuisine. A rare treat!

Find Rick's at 248 Boulevard Sour Jdid in Casablanca's Medina. Ph 0522 27 42 07/08
Rick's Cafe Website

Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Moroccan Photograpy Competition #20




 Sufi night at Riad Zany - Photographer Dominick Nisbett


Dominick says:  "The heads of the different brotherhoods I took at the Sufi evening at Riad Zany in Fez."

If you would like to submit a   photograph  taken in Morocco, please email it in jpeg or gif format to fes.riad@gmail.com and put "photo entry" in the subject line.


A  regularly updated collection of all the  photographs is now available   on The  View from Fez Photo  Journal

Monday, April 26, 2010

Assistance for house collapse victims



The latest tragedy of a house collapse (see news brief story here) is sadly one of several recent events. Over the past few weeks there have been a number of house collapses in the Fez Medina. However, the good news is that there is a community organisation that assists the victims. The voluntary organisation "Association Secouristes Volontaires de Proximité" so far have three groups in the Medina at Bab El-Guissa, Batha and R'Cif.

The initiative, a joint venture between the local community associations in the medina, the Fez Municipality, ADER (the Agency for the Dedensification and Rehabilitation of the Fes Medina), the Department of Civil Protection and the Swiss Direction de Developpement et Cooperation, also run training in disaster relief, first aid and other courses, for people in local communities.

The group also assists victims of flooding during heavy rain periods. At the moment the association has no formal structure for raising money or donations, but plans are under way to create more community awareness of what the association can offer. They are currently looking for a management assistant.

The aims of the Association are to support the response capacity of the Societe Civile by providing a wider and stronger network which will increase the safety of people living in various parts of the medina and just outside. There are five such groups within this disaster management system. The first 72 hours after natural disasters are most crucial, and the Association is to make the population aware of risks and increase collaboration between professional rescue teams and develop better lines of communication.

Moroccan Photography Competition #19


Woman on rooftop - photographer Harry Eyre

Harry says: A lady reading a magazine on her rooftop. the picture was taken from the roof of a neighbouring riad. It seems to capture an odd moment in the Medina. The lady is enjoying a quiet time while only a few yards away is the madness of Jmaa el Fna.It struck me as somehow quite Moroccan but not one that a tourist would usually see.

If you would like to submit a   photograph  taken in Morocco, please email it in jpeg or gif format to fes.riad@gmail.com and put "photo entry" in the subject line.

A  regularly updated collection of all the  photographs is now available   on The  View from Fez Photo  Journal



Morocco News Briefs



INDIAN DANCE
The Indian music and dance concert presented by Culture Vultures at Riad Lalla Zoubida entranced a large crowd this weekend.

Siross and Yona

photos: Gerard Chemit

TENNIS CHAMPIONSHIPS

The Sony Ericsson WTA Tour starts in Fez today with the Grand Prix of HRH Princess Lalla Meryem at the Henri Lecomte Tennis Academy. There are 32 players competing for a prize of US$220 000.

Carla Suárez Navarro leads the field, the first time she has ever held the No.1 seed at a Tour event (she has been the No.2 seed before though, at Bogotá the last two years). It is the Spaniard's first time playing this clay-court tournament and she hopes her one-handed backhand will take her to her first title, her best previous results being runner-up finishes at Marbella the last two years.

Hot on Suárez Navarro's heels will be Patty Schnyder and Anabel Medina Garrigues, the No.2 and No.3 seeds, respectively. Both Schnyder and Medina Garrigues have won a multitude of Tour titles - Schnyder 11, Medina Garrigues nine - Medina Garrigues is also the defending champion here. Schnyder begins against a qualifier while Medina Garrigues begins with a wildcard.

MICROLIGHT ACCIDENT CLAIMS TWO LIVES

Two French nationals were killed when a microlight aircraft they were aboard crashed in Morocco on Friday, officials said.

"The two passengers were of French nationality," an official in Ifrane province, 240 kilometres (150 miles) east of Rabat, told AFP, without giving further details.

The microlight was travelling from Ouarzazate to Fez when it crashed near the hamlet of Dayet Oua, striking a house but not causing any other casualties, the official said. An inquiry has been launched into the cause of the accident.

COLLAPSE OF MEDINA HOUSE (UPDATED)

News has just reached us of a house off the Tala'a Kebira in the central medina collapsed late last night, killing several inhabitants. First reports suggested that as many as ten people may have lost their lives. Later reports told of four deaths and six injuries. One of the dead is known to be a young girl. The two-floor house which sheltered two families was in a state of advanced dilapidation, authorities said, adding that a probe was opened to determine the exact conditions of the collapse.

MARCHE MAROC

Peace Corps volunteers in Rabat announce the third of their series of Marche Maroc Craft Fairs, which benefit the artisans they work with all over the country.
The Craft Fair will be held May 7-9 at the American Club in Rabat, and attendees need to be on a master list for security reasons. Anyone interested in attending can apply at: MarcheMarocExpo@yahoo.com

MOROCCAN JEWISH LEADERS UNHAPPY

Jewish leaders in Morocco are reportedly unhappy after the government demolished a historic Jewish building, the Benchimol hospital in Tangier.. According to reports from Tangier, the government razed the community-owned structure. The land still belongs to the community.

According to government officials in Rabat, the building was condemned and the demolition had been scheduled for months. The fact that the destruction occurred over Passover left the small Jewish community angered at what they called the government’s “insensitivity.”

Ironically, the demolition was done with the consent of the Jewish community.

SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT CONFERENCE
An International Symposium on Regionalisation and Sustainable Development will be held on 6 and 7 May at the Palais de Congres in Fez.

Organised by The South North Center in collaboration with the City Council, the Wilaya and the Fez-Saiss Association, the symposium will discuss the advanced regionalisation project proposed by Morocco, as well as take a look at a few international experiences.

In his speech on November 6, 2008, HM King Mohammed VI announced "a process of advanced and gradual regionalisation" for Morocco. On January 3, 2010, he appointed 21 members of the Advisory Commission of Regionalisation, which will reveal its findings toward the end of the year. In that same speech, the monarch wished to "involve all the forces of the nation to the overall design effort for this project."

The objective of this symposium is to review the other experiences of regionalisation, particularly those of Germany, Turkey, Spain, the United States and France and make recommendations on the proposed regionalisation of Morocco. The goal is also to create a network of specialists and experts for further coordination, discussion and reflection on the subject.

Participants in the symposium will be experts, academics and representatives of civil society in Morocco and several countries. See the full programme here.
For more information, contact Dr. Moha Ennaji, Director of the Symposium, at mennaji2002@yahoo.fr


MOROCCO'S SECRET SQUIRREL

The Barbary ground squirrel (Atlantoxerus getulus) lives in rocky habitats from sea level to 4,000 metres (13,000 feet) in the Atlas Mountains and is often hard to find. The photograph of the female was taken this week a few kilometres from Zagora. The presence of a fox in the area had the squirrel on full alert.

Photo: Sandy McCutcheon. 


Friday, April 23, 2010

Weekend events in the Fez medina


There's a lot going on this weekend in the medina:

Saturday 24 April:

Culture Vultures presents an opportunity to try your hand at Arabic Calligraphy with master calligrapher, Mohamed Charkaoui. This session is from 09h30-noon at Fes et Gestes in Ziat and costs Dh250.

Sunday 25 April:
If you enjoy the exquisite grace of Indian dance, get to Riad Lalla Zoubida at 23 Derb Salaj, Zerbtana, Batha, at 16h30 for a Kathak performance by Yona and Siross. It costs Dh30, including tea.


For more information on activities or bookings contact culture.vulture1@rocketmail.com or telephone 06 45 22 32 03.

And if you haven't seen it yet, don't miss the art installation at the ALIF Riad in Batha by artists M'barek Bouhchichi and Eric Saline.

Architectural responses at the ALIF Riad

This is a remarkable use of the traditional riad space. ALIF recommends seeing the work at dusk when the light changes the installation. The opening hours are 16h30-21h00 daily, and from 10h00-12h30 on Saturday and Sunday mornings.

For more information, call Jess at 0645 223 203.

Moroccan Photography Competition no. 18


This entry for The View from Fez Moroccan Photography competition comes from Nora Fitzgerald.


It's entitled Desert March. Nora says, "I'm an American woman who has lived in Morocco almost her whole life. This year I finally made it out to the desert with my husband, two older kids, and in-laws. The highlight was a camel ride by the light of the full moon out to the oasis camp where we spent the night. This picture was taken by my husband the following day as we made our way back to civilisation. It's really just you, your camel, and rolling sand dunes as far as the eye can see."

If you would like to submit a photograph taken in Morocco, please email it in jpeg or gif format to fes.riad@gmail.com and put "photo entry" in the subject line.

A regularly updated collection of all the photographs is now available on The View from Fez Photo Journal

Wednesday, April 21, 2010

Launch of gay magazine - a first for Morocco


An on-line gay magazine, Mithly, was launched this month in Morocco. This is the first gay publication in an Arab country.


Published in Rabat, the magazine is 'a breath of fresh air for a gay community that's criminalised and discriminated against', says www.gaymaroc.net. According to Islamists, homosexuality is considered 'counter to the future of humanity'.

The name 'Mithly' is a play on words, meaning both 'homosexual' and 'like me' in Arabic. The magazine, found at www.mithly.net, contains articles, local and international news, short stories and poetry. It does not contains explicit photographs.

It has not been possible to print a hard copy of the magazine, but the founders of the monthly magazine expect a large internet readership. According to them, the magazine is first and foremost an opportunity for those in a suffering community to express themselves. 'It's a healthy catharsis for a fringe segment of the population that is persecuted both by the State and by conservatives', they say.

It's also a brave move. Next month's issue will broach another taboo subject - that of the high level of suicides amongst Moroccan gays.

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Volcano ash: latest


Around 60% of flights from northern Europe are expected to begin again from today, Tuesday 20 April.


A small number of flights have already taken off after five days of inactivity caused by the spread of volcanic ash from Iceland. Planes have been departing from Paris, Amsterdam and Frankfurt among others - though many flights are still grounded.

However, not all the news is good. A new ash cloud spreading from Iceland has meant that most of UK airspace, including London, remains closed. The UK's air traffic control authority, Nats, says it is unlikely that the main airports in London will reopen on Tuesday.

EUROPEAN AIRSPACE 11h00 today, 20 April
BELGIUM - Airspace open. Limited service
UK - Airspace open over Scotland and Northern Ireland. Limited airspace over north of England. London airports remain closed
FRANCE - Limited flights from Paris to international destinations. Most airports open
GERMANY - Airspace closed, with some exceptions, until 18h00 on Tuesday. Lufthansa planning to operate 200 flights
IRELAND - Airspace remains closed
ITALY - Airspace open. Handful of flights resumed in and out of Milan
NETHERLANDS - Airspace open. Passenger flights arriving and departing in Amsterdam
SPAIN - Airspace open; all airports operating
SWEDEN - Airspace open
SWITZERLAND - Airspace open
DENMARK - Airspace above 16,600ft open. No landings
NORWAY - Airspace closed
POLAND - Airspace closed

A Nats statement said the situation remained "dynamic" and that "the latest information from the Met Office shows that the situation today will continue to be variable".

In an effort to try to take control of the situation, EU transport ministers have created a core no-fly area, a limited-service zone and an open-skies area. The Eurocontrol air traffic agency in Brussels says that some 14,000 of Europe's 27,500 daily flights are expected to fly on Tuesday.

The deputy director of operations, Brian Flynn, said: "The outlook is optimistic that bit by bit, hopefully in a few days' time, the situation will be restored to normal movement of air passengers in Europe."

Swiss and northern Italian airspace has reopened. The Swiss authorities said test flights had shown a considerable reduction in the amount of ash in the atmosphere and posed no threat to passenger safety.

Flights have resumed out of Paris' Charles de Gaulle and Orly airport, which are operating at about 30% capacity.

The German carrier, Lufthansa, says it is planning about 200 flights on Tuesday, taking advantage of special permission to fly visually rather than relying on instruments and keeping in constant touch with air traffic controllers.

In Spain, where all airports were open, the government has offered to let Britain and other European countries use its airports as stopovers to get passengers moving again.

Meanwhile, the EU Commissioner for Transport, Siim Kallas, has rejected criticism that the EU took too long to respond to the crisis. Addressing the European Parliament in Strasbourg, Mr Kallas said that all decisions were taken in accordance with existing and established rules.

Mr Kallas said that officials had had to delay decisions until "the ultimate truth" of the situation was known following test flights on Sunday.

He said the matter was not "in the hands of arbitrary decisions", but that the lives of people were at stake.

Sunday, April 18, 2010

Spanish couple killed in Asilah


The seaside town of Asilah, just south of Tangier, was today the scene of the murder of a Spanish couple.


The English-language website, Barcelona Reporter, tells of a man and a woman, whose identities have not yet been released, who were stabbed during the night by a stranger who stole their money and passports.

According to police sources, the alleged murderer also stole the couple's car. However, later that night he collided with a truck, which led to his arrest.

The investigators of the case remain in the victims' house. They were a middle-aged couple who lived in Madrid and who had been taking holidays for the past ten years in this tourist town. The alleged murderer, who was not injured in the accident, has already been moved to Tangier for questioning.

The crime scene has a significant police presence, including members of the Judicial Police who have come from Casablanca, locals said. Asilah is a resort much frequented by the Spanish, many of whom have purchased second homes.

In Morocco with Prince of Persia


Disney's new Prince of Persia: The Sands of Time, to be released on 28 May, was filmed in Morocco, around Ouarzazate, Marrakech and Merzouga.


This costume/adventure movie was directed by Mike Newell, produced by Jerry Bruckheimer and stars Jake Gyllenhall, Ben Kingsley, Gemma Arterton and Alfred Molina.

The story revolves around Gyllenhaal's character, a rogue prince, who joins forces with a mysterious princess to prevent an ancient dagger from releasing the Sands of Time — gift from the gods that can reverse time and allow its possessor to rule the world.

The View from Fez came across these quirky facts at tv.com:

AIM HIGH — The first shooting location for Prince of Persia: The Sands of Time was at an altitude of 8,200 feet in the mountain village of Oukmaiden in the High Atlas Mountains, surrounded by indigenous Berber communities. The cast and crew had to acclimate themselves before proceeding with the demanding action sequences filmed there.

SANDS OF TIME, INDEED — The production battled ferocious sandstorms in of Ouarzazate, Morocco.

HEATED — Morocco offered 100+-degree Fahrenheit temps during production. Massive, air-conditioned tents were erected at the Lycee Hassan II school in Marrakesh. One, which was the size of a football field, housed wardrobe, hair and makeup for the film's background players. And adjoining tent was built just for washing and drying. It was a mind-blowing 124 degrees on the last day of Moroccan filming (Merzouga Sand Dunes outside of Erfoud). According to Morocco Facilities Manager Gregoire Mouveau, during filming in that country the Prince of Persia company consumed 1,114,894 bottles of water.

OSTRICHES — Typical warnings on call sheets in Morocco: 'PLEASE DO NOT TOUCH THE OSTRICH ON SET TODAY' or 'BEWARE – SNAKES & SCORPIONS CAN BE FOUND AT THIS LOCATION UNDER AND AROUND THE ROCKS. BE CAUTIOUS.'

IT TAKES A VILLAGE — In Morocco, there were a combined 1,350 cast and crew members, including 800 local Moroccans. Adding the 500 people working in post-production, the total cast and crew amounted to more than 1,850.

SNAKE DUDE — A local Moroccan was hired to clear the shooting areas in the desert of a vipers and scorpions. Donning a t-shirt emblazoned with "Snake Dude," he was easy to spot.

LOCAL LANDMARKS — The Nasaf marketplace and city gates were built adjacent to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Ait Ben Haddou, but the original structure was untouched by the filmmakers.

DAGGERS — Some 20 different versions of the Dagger which holds the Sands of Time were fabricated for the film — from the "hero" version, made of steel, to latex versions, created for stunt sequences.

OSTRICH RACES AND ROMANCE — The only other ostrich race scene other than the one shot for Prince of Persia was for another Disney movie — the 1960 version of Swiss Family Robinson. The moment in which Alfred Molina, as Sheikh Amar, kisses his favorite ostrich on the neck was completely unscripted. "I thought I would either get my eye poked out," notes Molina, "or that I would get away with a funny moment."

STRAIGHT TO THE SOURCE — The film's parkour adviser is none other than France's David Belle, who actually invented parkour.

A NUMBERS GAME — The exterior set of Alamut, designed by Wolf Kroeger, was constructed around the actual 700-year-old walls of the village of Tamesloht, 20 kilometers southwest of Marrakesh. It required 30 miles of scaffold tubing and 400 tons of plaster, with 350 members of the construction crew. The colorful frescoes and mural paintings which adorn the set were painted in seven weeks. The Alamut Eastern Gate set built at Pinewood Studios' "007 Stage," also designed by Wolf Kroeger, required 3,000 eight-by-four-foot sheets of wood, 70,000 feet of three-by-one inch timber, and 40 tons of casting plaster for moldings. It was constructed in a relatively brief 14 weeks.

ARMED AND DANGEROUS — Armorer Richard Hooper and his department fabricated 3,500 individual items, including swords, shields, spears, axes, arrows, bows, quivers, scabbards, bow cases, daggers and Hassansin weapons.

EPIC A.D. — Working on the film for a few days at Pinewood Studios in England was legendary British assistant director Michael Stevenson, who knows a thing or two about epics having worked on Lawrence of Arabia, The Fall of the Roman Empire, Doctor Zhivago, The Charge of the Light Brigade and Barry Lyndon.

COSTUMES — With more than 7,000 costumes created and fabricated for the film, costume designer Penny Rose's wardrobe department exceeded that of the Pirates of the Caribbean films, which she also served as costume designer.

TRICKS OF THE TRADE — The patchwork coats worn by Alfred Molina as Sheikh Amar were made from Indian bedspreads sewn together. Their shredded look, revealing the different layers of fabric, was achieved by rubbing cheese graters across the coats. Other costumes were aged by throwing them into a cement mixer with stones.

MULTI-CULTURED COSTUMES — Costume designer Penny Rose discovered fabrics used for the film's costumes in locales as diverse as India, Thailand, Italy, France, Malaysia, China, Great Britain and, of course, Morocco.

THE UNCLE'S NEW CLOTHES — The character who has the most wardrobe changes is not Tamina, played by the beautiful Gemma Arterton, but Nizam, portrayed by Sir Ben Kingsley.

And we'll add another quirky fact of our own: despite hundreds of Moroccans involved in the making of the film, there's no cinema in Ouarzazate for them to see the results of their efforts!

Sufi Festival update


The combined effects of flights cancelled due to volcanic ash over Europe and bad weather in Fez have conspired to make events at the Fes Festival of Sufi Culture run less than smoothly.

Faouzi Skali chats to Jalal Eddine Weiss

Founder Faouzi Skali's wish to begin the conference in the garden of the Batha Museum was frustrated by a downpour, and the afternoon eventually took place in the Prefecture hall opposite.

Later that evening it was discovered that the concert had been moved to the Jnan Palace Hotel in the Ville Nouvelle. And a superb concert it was, given by Sheikh Habboush from Syria and Jalal Eddine Weiss.

Whirling dervish

The conference this afternoon, Sunday, was cancelled because several speakers were unable to come to Fez. The evening concert will again be held at the Jnan Palace. The schedule of events for tomorrow, Monday 19 April, is as yet unclear.

Photos: Omar Chennafi

Volcanic ash update


Flight restrictions caused by volcanic ash have been extended to at least 19h00 this evening, Sunday 18 April.


Planes were first grounded at midday on Thursday amid fears that particles in the ash cloud generated by the volcanic eruption could cause engines to shut down. Prof Brian Golding, head of forecasting research at the UK's Met Office, said it looked like the ash would remain over the UK "for several days".

"We need a change of wind direction that stays changed for several days and there is no sign of that in the immediate future," he said.

A plume of ash 8.5km (5.3 miles) high was visible in Iceland on Saturday.

British glaciologist Dr Matthew Roberts, who is working at Iceland's Met Office, said the volcano was now producing less ash.

"However, there is still volcanic ash in the atmosphere and there's a lag effect between material being emitted from the volcano and the ash plume drifting into European airspace," he said.

The disruption has affected hundreds of thousands of travellers since Wednesday, when the Eyjafjallajoekull volcano began erupting.

Meanwhile, Dutch airline KLM and German airline Lufthansa have carried out test flights in their countries' airspace to see if it is safe for planes to fly.

KLM said a Boeing 737 and its engines were being inspected for possible damage, with a view to getting permission from the aviation authorities to start up operations again.

The BBC reported that the disruption risked becoming a "major business and economic disaster", and that a number of European airlines face financial difficulties.

In Fez, guesthouses have been reporting many cancellations from guests not able to fly to Morocco, while many others are stranded here and can't get home.

Saturday, April 17, 2010

Moroccan News Briefs



Sufi Festival begins today, 17 April
The Fes Festival of Sufi Culture begins today with an introductory lecture at 15h30 at the Batha Museum the medina. Founder and Director of the Festival Faouzi Skali will ask 'What is Sufism?'.

The opening concert tonight at 21h00 at the Batha Museum will feature Sheik Habboush and Jalal Eddine Weiss (tickets Dh200 at the door).

See the full programme here, although there have been some changes.


Moroccan Jewish Day at Al Akhawayn University



The University in Ifrane will hold its second Moroccan Jewish Day on Wednesday 21 April, with the theme "Judeo-Moroccan heritage in creating Moroccan arts".

The conference will be hosted by a wide range of guests such as Mr. Andre Azoulay, adviser to His Majesty the King, Simon Levy, director of the Judeo-Moroccan Heritage Museum of Casablanca, Samuel Kaplan, US ambassador to Morocco, and the presidents and representatives of Jewish communities in different regions of Morocco (Fez, Sefrou, Oujda, Marrakech, Essaouira and Casablanca) and the Jewish communities of France, Canada and the United States.

The program also includes an exhibition of art objects, from the Foundation of the Jewish Moroccan Heritage Museum and a musical evening.

Organising the day is the student Mimouna Club, established in 2007 to encourage students to discover Jewish-Moroccans who has always been part of the history of Morocco. The Club also aims to discover the Jewish traditions in their differences and similarities with Muslim traditions in the Moroccan context, and especially to introduce Moroccan Judaism as a model of coexistence between Jews and Muslims in the Arab world.

Mimouna is the name of a Jewish-Moroccan traditional feast which celebrates freedom, community, friendship, life and hospitality among Moroccan Jews and their Muslim fellow citizens, the statement said.


Quo vadis Merinides Hotel?

Rumour has it in the medina that this eyesore of a hotel on the hill above Fez has been sold and will be razed to make way for a super-star hotel in the mould of the extra luxurious Mamounia in Marrakech.
The Merinides, which has splendid views over the medina, gets pretty poor reviews from guests on forums such as Tripadvisor, so perhaps this would be good thing. Certainly no-one will be sorry to see the block-like 70s architecture go.



Morocco to achieve the Millennium Development Goals by 2015

Morocco is among the few countries that will achieve the Millennium Development Goals (MDGs) by 2015, head of Morocco's statistics office Haut Commissariat au Plan (HCP), Ahmed Lahlimi Alami said, writes Mokhtar Thabet for Global Arab Network.

This conclusion was confirmed by many studies and analyses carried out by the United Nations, the UN Development Programme and HCP, Lahlimi underlined during a workshop on the presentation of the 2009 national report on MDGs.

Recalling that Morocco was able to reduce the 1990s growth and human development deficits, he noted that the achievements made in terms of economic, social and urban infrastructure contributed to the decentralisation of the nation's economy and a better distribution of jobs, incomes and basic social services.

The large-scale anti-poverty programme "National Initiative for Human Development" (INDH) has contributed to minimizing the rates of unemployment and poverty during the last decade through improving the living conditions of the populations, particularly in rural areas, he said.

Lahlimi noted that though Morocco's economy has shown relative resilience due to the effects of the global economic crisis, it lost 0.9% of its GDP growth rate in 2008 and 2.4% in 2009.

Moreover, Morocco's economy expanded by 7.8% year on year in the final quarter of 2009, taking the full-year rate of GDP growth to an average of 5.2%, said the UK think-tank, the Economist Intelligence Unit (EIU).

Terming as "impressive" the fourth-quarter growth rate, the think-tank said value-added output from the agricultural sector swelled by 26.9%, while output from mining and energy rose by 10.2%.

Manufacturing and construction activity grew by 3.8% and 6.1% respectively, said the EIU, adding that following this strong performance, Morocco was upgraded to investment grade by ratings agency Standard & Poor's in March.

Changes in agricultural output can have a significant effect on private consumption, added the think-tank, noting that the non-agricultural sector's role will increase over the longer term as manufacturing develops and construction expands on the back of government housing and infrastructure projects.

Friday, April 16, 2010

Volcanic ash affects flights to Fez


On one of the busiest weekends this year in Fez, guesthouses are reporting cancellations as flights from northern Europe are grounded.

Eyjafjallajokull eruption, 27 March

Lonely Planet reports that airports in the UK and on mainland Europe are closed due to concerns over volcanic ash drifting from Iceland's Eyjafjallajokull glacier. London, Paris, Frankfurt and Amsterdam are all affected.

Volcanic ash is a major hazard to aircraft. The presence and location of the plume depend upon the state of the eruption and the winds.

The estimated ash cloud over Europe at 18:00 GMT on 15 April (UK Met Office)

There has been extensive air travel disruption following the second eruption. The eruption occurred beneath glacial ice and the cold water from melting ice chilled the lava quickly causing it to fragment into glass, creating small glass particles that get carried into the eruption plume. This, together with the magnitude of the eruption, created a glass-rich plume in the upper atmosphere, very hazardous to aircraft.

So what does a pilot do when up against a volcanic cloud? The first trick is to know it's there, which is tougher than it might seem. Volcanic plumes generally are not picked up on weather radar, so pilots have to rely on other tools to spot them, like a color-coded tracking system that assigns every known volcano a colour based on its level of activity. Green is normal, yellow raises the threat, and red signifies an imminent eruption. From there, pilots check the wind direction to gauge where the plume will blow and make a call—either over or around—based on their altitude. "You definitely want a good 10,000 feet between you and the cloud, and even then you'd want to be cautious," says veteran international airline pilot, Robert Schapiro. Planes generally fly at about 35,000 feet, so small eruptions don't pose a significant problem. Major eruptions, which can reach up to 60,000 feet, are more troublesome. The ash cloud from the Iceland eruption is hovering between 20,000 and 30,000 feet.

Thursday, April 15, 2010

Dance at the Fez Festival of World Sacred Music


The Fes Festival of World Sacred opens this year with the Royal Cambodian Ballet on 4 June, at Bab al Makina.

Royal Cambodian Ballet

This Khmer form of dance was almost completely obliterated during the Pol Pot regime, but has now been recognised by UNESCO as a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.

Opening night at the Festival is always a gala affair, usually attended by HRH Princess Lalla Salma. This particular concert should offer all the glitz needed for a special night. The performance is choreographed by HRH Princess Buppha Devi, herself a former dancer. Although retired now, she works as director of the 300 dancers of the Royal Ballet.

Accompanied by the tinkling of xylophones and a euphony of gongs and drums, the Apsara dancers, dressed in their tightly fitted silk tunics embroidered in gold and silver, barefoot but with elaborate headdresses and glistening with jewelry, enter the stage to perform with incredible grace. Dancing holds great significance for the Khmer people and the government considers the Royal Ballet in particular to be a national treasure. Princess Buppha Devi, along with the Ministry of Culture, is helping to ensure that its traditions will flourish in the next century.
HRH Princess Buppha Devi

INDIAN DANCE
More dance will follow on the afternoon of Saturday 5 June at the Batha Museum, when the athletic young Gotipuras of Raghurajpur Heritage Village in Orissa, India, will perform.

Gotipua dancers

Gotipua (meaning boy) dancers dressed as girls originated in the 17th century, possibly because women were not supposed to perform in public. These dancers are not allowed to dance inside the temple, but occasionally within the temple precincts for special occasions. The group consists of four or five members with a guru, or teacher, in charge. The guru plays the harmonium and sings. There can also be a madala and a ginni player. The dance style is Odissi.

This particular group will perform Bandha Nritya dances which are acrobatic and involve difficult physical exercises which can be mastered only at a very early age; they can't be performed after adolescence.

Raghurajpur Heritage Village has been in operation for ten years, and almost everyone in the village is involved in arts and crafts. It's situated close to Puri in Orissa, an important pilgrimage site with its Jagganath temple.

SUFI DANCE
At 21h00 on Monday 7 June at Dar Pacha Tazi, Les Musiciens du Nil from Egypt will be performing. With them will be Tanoura dancers, a form of whirling.

Tanoura dancers

The Tanoura dancer places himself at the centre of the group with the others around him, like planets around a star. This represents the grandeur of the universe and the superb creativity of God. Accompanied by folkloric instruments such as flutes, drums and rebec (a simple form of violin), the songs can be invocations to God and eulogies on the Prophet as well as popular songs about peace, friendship and love.

Festival links:
Accommodation: Fez Riads
Programme in English
Ticket Collection and Delivery

Art Installation at Fes Medina riad


The ALIF riad in Batha is to host a unique sculptural exhibition, opening at 18h30 on Saturday 17 April.

Artists M'barek Bouhchichi and Eric Saline ponder the riad space

Entitled Architectural Responses, the exhibition features the work of Moroccan artist M'barek Bouhchichi and American artist Eric Saline. Jess Stephens, organising the exhibition on behalf of ALIF (the Arabic Language Institute in Fez) and the American Language centre, explains that the two artists eagerly accepted the challenge to create this sculptural installation, and calls it 'Fez' freshest art exhibition in 1200 years'.

While one might think that the specific architectural and decorative aspects of a traditional Moroccan riad is hardly a neutral starting point, the two artists feel that the space of a riad is like a forgotten work of art, a pre-mixed palette just begging to have life breathed back into it.

The idea began a couple of years ago when M'barek and Eric met in Tetouan and discussed the similarities in their work. For this installation, they'll be using everyday materials from the souks like paper, plastic sheeting and indoor/outdoor lights. They invite the public to participate in a living artwork - walk around, look at the work from different angles, interact with it, explore and touch it, and get a sense of the artwork.


Courtyard of the ALIF riad in Batha

Cultural Events at the riad
The riad was recently acquired by ALIF/ALC and Jess co-ordinates a wide range of cultural events. There's no charge, except for the Moroccan Arabic conversation clases which are Dh750 for six lessons, and everyone's invited. Here's the programme for the rest of April:

18h30 Thursday 15 April

Film screening : What a Wonderful World
(Moroccan Arabic with English Subtitles)

18h30 Saturday 17 April until 12 of May
Exhibition opening: Architectural Responses: Eric Saline & M'Barek Bouhchichi

19h00 Sunday 18 April
Poetry Soiree

18h30 Tuesday 20 April
Moroccan Arabic Conversation Course: Beginners

18h30 Wednesday 21 April
Moroccan Arabic Conversation Course 2/6: Intermediate

18h30 Thursday 22 April
Film Night: The Dove's Lost Necklace
(Moroccan Arabic with English Subtitles)

18h30 Monday 26 April
Percussion workshop and Malhoun Concert.

18h30 Tuesday 27 April
Moroccan Arabic Conversation Course 3/6: Beginners

18h30 Wednesday 28th April
Moroccan Arabic Conversation Course 3/6: Intermediate

The riad can be found at 6 Derb Drissi, Douh, Batha. For more information, phone Jess on +212 (0) 645 223 203.

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

Moroccan Photography Competition no. 17


Martin Salata has provided this entry to the photography competition, entitled Catnap.


Martin says, "I love your blog and check it on a daily basis, it is such a great resource. My fiancee and I took a trip to Fez this past February. We loved it so much, and plan to go back next year. We especially liked taking pictures of all the cats as you can see".

If you would like to submit a photograph taken in Morocco, please email it in jpeg or gif format to fes.riad@gmail.com and put "photo entry" in the subject line.

A regularly updated collection of all the photographs is now available on The View from Fez Photo Journal

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Ahl Touat Brotherhood deliver a superb evening in Fez



Prepartions at Riad Zany

Last night in Fez, The View from Fez hosted a Sufi Night for fifty invited guests. Photographs by Suzanna Clarke.




The piercing praise-songs of the Ahl Touat Brotherhood rang through R'cif as the Brotherhood made their way through the narrow alleys towards Riad Zany. What followed was an amazing night of wonderful music. The Ahl Touat group, led by Driss Abou Sabe el Zerhouni, were joined by Hamadcha leaders Mustapha Khalili and Abderrahim Amrani Marrakchi, Hamid Bouhalal of the Wouled Sihim we el Mokhtar, and Gnaoua maalem (leader) Abdennabi el Meknessi.

There was superb singing from the large crowd of participants at the lila. Among the many Moroccan guests were a group of Australian visitors who were amazed to have been fortunate enough to witness a truly authentic Sufi ceremony.




Click images to enlarge

Monday, April 12, 2010

Meknes to host international agricultural expo


A small section of the huge tented site

From the 28th of April to 2 May, the Imperial city of Meknes will host an international agricultural exhibition. When The View from Fez visited the site, preparations were well in hand. A large number of huge tented pavilions have been erected as well as numerous small ones.

The site, next to the famous grain storage silos built centuries ago by Moulay Ismael, is being paved, cleaned up and decorated in preparation, with work going on around the clock.

According to local sources there will be over 25 different countries taking part and exhibits will include everything from the latest agricultural and farming technologies through to livestock.

The scale of the exhibition is extremely impressive and should prove to be a major draw card for Meknes.

Sunday, April 11, 2010

Photography workshop in Fez


Renowned Magnum photographer, Antoine d'Agata, will be in Fez in October to present a photographic workshop.

Antoine d'Agata

The workshop will be held from 25-31 October in a Fez medina riad and will be limited to a total of 12 participants. Organisers 1000 Words explain that the purpose of the workshop will be to concentrate on a very personal approach to photography and certainly this will be a richly rewarding week for those who wish to push themselves.

Antoine d’Agata is one of the most unique and important photographers of our age. His imagery is characterised by an intense and highly subjective experience that pushes the limits of social documentary photography. Born in Marseille, 1961, he left France in 1990 to study at The International Centre for Photography in New York alongside Nan Goldin and Larry Clark. His work has been published in the books Insomnia, Vortex, Stigma and Agonie amongst others, and he has been exhibited internationally at galleries and festivals including Rencontres d’Arles, Noorderlicht, FotoFreo and The Photographers Gallery, London. He has been a member of Magnum Photos since 2004.

1000 Words Photography is an artist-led organisation that has promoted the work of more than 280 art photographers through publishing and exhibiting opportunities. The organisation´s flagship is 1000 Words, an online magazine dedicated to highlighting the best work in contemporary art photography worldwide. The 1000 Words Workshop is organised by Tim Clark, writer and editor-in-chief at 1000 Words and Michael Grieve, 1000 Words contributing editor and photographer.

“It isn’t the eye that photography poses on the world that interests me but its most intimate rapport with that world”
Antoine d’Agata

For more information on the workshop, see the website.

Moroccan Photography Competition #16


Photographer - Zoe Elkaim

Zoe says: This photograph was taken in the Fez medina. It seems to embody many of the juxtapositions that I saw in Morocco: ancient and modern, Arabic and French, practical and beautiful, airy lightness surrounded by slightly darker edges..

If you would like to submit a photograph taken in Morocco, please email it in jpeg or gif format to fes.riad@gmail.com and put "photo entry" in the subject line.

A regularly updated collection of all the photographs is now available on The View from Fez Photo Journal