A Moroccan Dreams a "House of Silk"

For the last six years Mouaniss, a thirty-two year old Moroccan living in Fez, has had a dream. His dream would, to most of his friends have seemed fanciful - he wanted to build and run his own guest house in the Fez Medina. His story is a wonderful example of how with hard work, the right attitude and determination, dreams can sometimes come true. The View from Fez sat down and had a chat with Mouaniss about his guest house Dar Sondos - the House of Silk

Mouaniss in Dar Sondos

TVFF: So, what was your first job?

Mouaniss: I left school at seventeen and worked in an antique shop. Mostly I was doing the dusting and cleaning. After that I spent time working on the street, selling souvenirs to tourists.  Following that I started to get work with foreigners who had come to the medina in order to restore houses.

TVFF:  Your English is very good. Did you learn it at school?

Mouaniss:  No. I wasn't taught English, but rather picked it up while working with tourists. Then, when I began to work with foreigners I improved a lot. English is very important now and I was lucky to learn it as most people were still only speaking French and Arabic, so finding work was not too difficult. It is a very good thing for the Medina that there are now a few foreigners owning houses and they all contribute to preserving the Medina. Also for me, I really enjoy my contact with them.

TVFF:  You first had the idea of owning a guest house six years ago. When did you actually start work on the project?

Mouaniss:  Three years ago a friend and I decided the time was right. However it was not an easy thing to do, especially as we didn't have the resources foreigners normally have. The project took two and a half years of work. I ran out of money and even had to sell my motorbike. But  (humdullilah) eventually we got the job done and opened Dar Sondos three months ago.

TVFF:  So what was it like welcoming your first guests?

Mouaniss:  I must admit I was a little nervous, but thankfully there was no problem. An Indian couple from New Delhi arrived with their child and enjoyed their stay. Since then we have had a steady flow of guests. People are happy because the house is so close to the edge of the Medina and easy to reach by taxi with luggage.

Sofia - always happy to help

TVFF:  And who do you have helping you?

Mouaniss:  I am fortunate to have Sofia working with me. She is well educated and speaks very good English, French and Arabic. Guest have all commented on how friendly and helpful she is.

TVFF:  Have you more dreams you would like to fulfil?

Mouaniss:  At the moment I am just content and happy that my dream came true. However, in the future... maybe another riad. Inshallah.

TVFF:  Inshallah.

Dar Sondos can be contacted at dar.sondos@gmail.com
Or visit the website:  Dar Sondos

Photographs: Suzanna Clarke 

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Ryad Salama Opens in Fez

Today The View from Fez was lucky enough to get a preview of the latest guest house to open in Fez. Ryad Salama (le luxe autrement) is not a traditional Medina house, but rather a superbly renovated riad that combines many styles. Too often a mixture of styles can end up as a confusing mess. Not in this case. The time and thought that has gone into its design has produced an elegant gem of a house that feels more like a home than a guest house.

The creative mind behind this enterprise is Michel Trezzy, a man with a lifetime of experience in the luxury end of the international hotel market along with forays into gourmet food and wine. He has worked in Dubai, in Boston, Florida, Disney Europe outside Paris and was the general manager of the Cascades Hotel at Sun City, South Africa.

Michel Trezzy is a generous and friendly host with a wonderful knowledge of good food, New World wines and, naturally, of Fez. Long-time residents will know of Michel from his time as a partner at Ryad Mabrouka. Arriving in September 2000, he spent a year and a half restoring Ryad Mabrouka and turning it into a successful business.

Michel has now opened his own guesthouse, Ryad Salama. The house was constructed early last century by one of the true aristocrats of Fez, Mohammed Chergui. Sadly it had fallen into disrepair and so this renovation was no quick fix. “When I first entered the house, I knew it was what I wanted and I had a vision of how it could be,” Michel reflects. It has taken much thought and five years of work to bring Michel’s vision into reality.

The location of the Ryad, so close to the major streets and accessible from Ain Azleten car park, make it a perfect base for exploring the Medina. In addition it has free Wifi and air-conditioning. Every one of the suites – delightfully named, Chocolatine, Clementine, Almondine, Aubergine, Eglantine and Capucine – have private balconies offering views of the central courtyard.

And this central courtyard is a work of art; the pool and beautiful gardens give the interior such a sense of peace and tranquillity that it is all too easy to forget there is a world outside. This is no accident, but the result of careful planning. As Michel says "My first impression of Fez was that it was both peaceful and amazing. What was amazing was that the people in the Medina can live in the Medina and have no need to go out of it. It is the same with the houses. Every house has a curved entrance so that the interior is not immediately visible, but comes as a surprise."

Remarkably the prices at this guesthouse are truly affordable, and as an opening special offer Michel is offering very good discount packages for all rooms, a night’s accommodation, welcoming drinks plus a superb French-Moroccan “fusion” dinner for only 1700 dirhams. A second night is offered at a large discount. This offer is only available from June 10 until September 10.

Always keen to hear about food, we asked Michel about the menu:

Gravelax de saumon à l’huile d’argan et zest de citrons confits (Michel's own homemade gravadlax of salmon with argan oil and zest of preserved lemons)

Filets de St Pierre aux cèpes de la forêt de Mamora (fillet of Saint Pierre with ceps mushrooms from the Marmora forest)

Epaule d’agneau au miel et à la cannelle (shoulder of lamb with honey and cinnamon)

Pastilla aux mangues (mango pastilla)

Filets d’agrume aux amandes caramélisées (citrus strips with caramelised almonds)

And Michel Trezzy is optimistic about the future. “We have had downturns in the past, after 9/11, after the Casablanca bombings and of course the present instability in some parts of the Arab world. But given the peaceful nature of Fez, the extended airport and stability in the region, Fez will again become a prime tourist destination.”

Contact details:
Tel (00 212) 535 635 730
Email: contact@ryadsalama.com
Website: www.ryadsalama.com
Ryad Salama can be booked through Fez Riads where you will also find a map of the location.

Mazagan Beach Resort opens with a bang

South African entrepreneur, Sol Kerzner, has launched his latest project in El Jadida, 90km south of Casablanca. The Mazagan Beach Resort opened this week.

opening party fireworks

Mr Kerzner is famous for his extravagant resorts, where no expense is spared. Travellers to Southern Africa might have come across Sun City, the Lost City and others in South Africa, some of his first ventures. But over the years, his resort empire has expanded to include the Bahamas, Dubai, Mexico, the Maldives, Mauritius and Cape Town. Now it's Morocco's turn.

Heather Kerzner, actress Lindsay Lohan and Sol Kerzner

The opening night was impressive. 1500 guests were treated to fireworks, a fantasia, dancers, drummers, musicians and snake charmers. In the promotional video on the resort's website, all seem bowled over by the display and the building itself.

Eric Fellner, Naomi Campbell and Vladislav Doronin enjoy the party

The resort is set on 250 hectares next to a 7km beach, and boasts a 5-star hotel with 500 rooms. There's an 18-hole golf course designed by Gary Player, a spa, casino, nightclub, conference centre and eleven restaurants.

Moroccan hospitality?

If you have an early flight out of Casablanca, or arrive in the country late at night, it makes sense to stay at a hotel conveniently situated at the airport. With a new Atlas Hotel about to be built in Fez, The View from Fez has been looking into the performance of the Atlas Hotel at Casa's Mohamed V airport. Helen Ranger reports.

The three-star Atlas Hotel at Mohamed V airport, Casablanca

The Atlas Hotel is the only one at Casablanca airport. While the hotel group's own website has no description of Atlas hotels situated in Agadir, Ifrane, Marrakech as well as at the airport, you can book through asia.com where the blurb states "Atlas Airport Hotel in Casablanca has opulent guestrooms that have all the amenities that are found in any three star hotel. The in-room amenities include mini bar, satellite television, international direct dial telephone, hair dryers, writing tables and many others. All the rooms have cozy beds featuring soft pillows and blankets. This modern hotel offers a homely atmosphere. The rooms are spacious and are decorated with carpets, rugs and curtains made from fine fabric. The serene ambience of the rooms make it the ultimate comfort zone where you would like to retreat after a long day.

Every room has an attached bathroom with modern bath amenities. Luxury toiletries are found in the bathrooms. The ensuite bathrooms are regularly cleaned by the hotel staff keeping in mind the hygienic factor."

All well and good, until you read the reviews. Mr Hayes from the UK stayed there in February, and wrote:

"The room was filthy. The hotel staff were unhelpful and rude. The lunch buffet was a joke. I would not feed my dog the food they served ... Needless to say, I will never travel through Morocco again for business or any other reason!!!"

Sarah Reynolds of the US echoed these thoughts with:

"It was absolutely filthy. One of the worst rooms I have ever stayed in. They have not cleaned the bathroom floors or shower in years. They didn't even have a towel in the bathroom. Everything was broken, I was sure we would come home with bugs in our bags. It has fancy photos and high price tag, but if at all possible, do not stay at this hotel."

Mr Compen from the Netherlands was blunter. "Warning: don't stay here!"

The View from Fez checked out the hotel on Tripadvisor too, where reviews range from praising the shuttle bus to the airport to complaints about high prices and "Bad service, lousy food, worst beds, snotty workers, the only reason to stay would be because it is close to the airport. They have amenities, but not always available. The food in the restaurant is lousy and the waitstaff are terrible. You pay too much for crap. Avoid if at all possible".

Now while you can't always rely on sites like Tripadvisor as they can be manipulated, there are enough bad reviews on both of these sites to convince us to stay in downtown Casablanca, even if it means getting up before dawn to take an early train shuttle to the airport.

New Atlas Hotel in Fez

What is of great concern here is the new Atlas hotel that's being built on the approach road to the medina of Fez. Will this government-run hotel be as bad as the one in Casa? How do such appalling standards reflect on the country's ambitious plans for an increase in tourism to 10 million visitors by 2010?

Moroccans are justly famous for their hospitality - come on, Atlas, wake up and provide the kind of food and service that weary travellers need!

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Marrakech highspots

In Marrakech recently, The View from Fez team dropped in at Dar Cherifa to view their latest exhibition.

In a stunning 17th century house, this cafe literaire has lots of books to pore over and regularly holds exhibitions - right now it's photographs by Francoise Atlan, perhaps better known for her performance of Catalan, Ladino and Sephardic song. Dar Cherifa is a wonderful space to escape the bustle of the medina and enjoy tea or lunch on the patio or up on the roof terrace.

tea at Dar Cherifa

Dar Cherifa is also home to Marrakech Riads which has a range of beautifully restored and simply furnished guesthouses in the Marrakech medina. With prices starting at Dh550 per room per night, these make a good-value option.

a bedroom at Dar Baraka

Part of the same group is one of Marrakech's finest restaurants, Dar Zellij. Dinner here is a special treat, with soft oud music, scattered rose petals, excellent service and memorable food.

One of the dishes on offer is trid, a Marrekchi speciality that we haven't found anywhere else. Layers of fine pastry similar to the warka used for b'stilla, are wrapped around gently-spiced meat - in this case, pigeon - and coated with smen (not unlike ghee, or clarified butter). It's a hearty dish and definitely worth a try.

dinner by candlelight at Dar Zellij

For more information, see the Marrakech Riads website or book accommodation through Fez Riads.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Fes Festival of World Sacred Music: have you booked?

With only a little over two weeks to go before the Festival of World Sacred Music, bookings for accommodation in Fez are down on last year, reports Helen Ranger.

Riad Charqi is full for the Festival

Fez Riads told The View from Fez that many of the cheaper pensions as well as some of the well-established guesthouses are full, but there's still lots of availability. One riad owner reported several cancellations, though whether this is due to the financial crisis or fear of swine flu is not clear. Another reason could be the Festival's programming which is, perhaps, less inspiring than some year's, though the afternoon concerts look worth attending.

There are still a few private houses to rent, and opportunities at mid-range riads, starting at around 85 Euros per double room per night. Luxury suites are plentiful too. Staying in a riad guesthouse in the medina is definitely the best way to attend Festival events, which all take place in the medina.

This interesting house is still available for the Festival

Tickets
We're told by Objectif Maroc, the ticketing agency in Fez, that Festival ticket sales are also down on previous years, but there's still time to order them. Concert tickets range from 9-56 Euros depending on the performance and seat location; a full pass that will get you into all events including the Fes Meetings, costs 310 Euros for the whole week.

Fez Riads has a ticket collection service - make use of this if you'd like your tickets delivered to your guesthouse in time for your arrival.


Tags:Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Dar Zerhoune in Moulay Idriss

Take one mountainside house in a charming village medina, add lots of light and a flash of artistic flair, and you get a superb retreat that's ideal for a break away from the imperial cities of Fez and Meknes.

While in Moulay Idriss, The View from Fez was invited to preview Dar Zerhoune, the new hotel that's the brainchild of Rose Button and Mike Richardson of Cafe Clock. High up on the hill, the house has stupendous views across the mountains, the plains around Volubilis, and down to the river.

Relaxing on the terrace and gazing
across the valley is highly therapeutic.

The bedrooms are well-equipped to sleep three or four people, there's a comfortable sitting room, and meals are available. Prices are extremely reasonable - a dorm room is Dh180 per person per night and a double with en suite bathroom is Dh450, including a delicious Moroccan breakfast. You'll be well looked after by Faisal and his father.

The hotel is light and airy.

The house is full of interesting Moroccan design features

Maybe the greatest pleasure was to sit on the terrace in the sunset, watching the changing colours of the houses as the sun set far across the plain beyond Volubilis.

Look after yourself!

Moulay Idriss can be very hot in summer. Drink plenty of water, wear a hat, cover your arms and take some sun screen. This is especially inportant if you are visiting Volubilis as well.

The Details:

Getting there.
Take the train from Fez and get off at the 2nd stop in Meknes. (ticket 52 dirham for 1st class). Take a small taxi to grands taxis station. Ask for Moulay Idriss. Cost for two people is 60 dirhams or if you share it - 10 dirhams per person.

In Moulay Idriss, leave the taxi and walk up the hill to the main square. Here you will find cafes and down one particular side street a lot of small street restaurants that serve good cheap food.

At the top of the square are steps leading to the Moulay Idriss Mausoleum, which on Muslims may enter. However you can take the stairs at the side of the entrance way and climb to the top of the city for a fabulous panoramic view.

Staying:
Staying overnight and using Moulay Idriss as a base for visiting Volubilis is recommended. Book in advance +212 (0)618108175.

Visit Dar Zerhoune at www.buttonsinn.com or book through Fez Riads

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Day trips from Fez - Moulay Idriss

Moulay Idriss (click on any image to enlarge!)

Moulay Idriss is perched a few kilometres above Volubilis, near Meknes. The View from Fez team took the train from Fez to Meknes (40 minutes) and then shared a grand taxi from the French Institute (Dh10 each) up to the village. The drive takes around 20 minutes and winds through spectacular countryside that's awash with colourful spring flowers. An important pilgrimage site, the village has an interesting main square with shops selling incense, prayer beads and candles for the faithful, and the main street is full of restaurants and cafes for watching the passing parade.

First thing we did was climb a lot of steps...

pausing every few feet to take in the views down the side alleys.

Along the way we found a lot of doors and behind one of them we found Mike Richardson from Cafe Clock in Fez.

Behind other doors we discovered secret gardens and it was from these places that we began to get a sense of the photogenic nature of Moulay Idriss. In almost every direction the view was superb.

We were now high enough to look down on activities below us, but of sadly not as high as a couple of girls right at the top, who watched our slow progress with much amusement.

All the exploration had left us very hungry and finding the downhill journey a lot easier, we made it in record time to the small street of cafes off the main square.

An eye out for passing trade.

Not only was the food excellent, the street was perfect for indulging in the Moroccan national pastime - people watching. Where else would you see a man walking by with a plough on his shoulder?

This story continues on The View from Fez Photo Journal

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Tourism boom in the Fez Medina

Tourists from around the world pour into Fez

Global financial crisis? What crisis? Good question if you happen to be in Morocco at the moment. Despite ( or maybe because of) the economic downturn in the USA and Europe, travellers are descending on Morocco in droves. Official figures will not be available for some months, but even to a casual observer it is obvious that Morocco in general and Fez in particular are doing extremely well at the moment. Many of the tourists say they were attracted by the relatively low cost of a Moroccan holiday compared to many other destinations.

The Fez Medina cafes are crowded

Just prior to the Easter holiday weekend the level of enquiries for accommodation was a torrent rather than the usual steady stream. As one guest house owner in the Fez Medina told The View From Fez, "If I had another half a dozen properties I could fill them all."

Backpackers and tour groups enjoying the warm weather in Fez

Fes Riads, the premier service for finding riad and guest house accommodation in Fez, also has experienced a huge upswing in enquiries. According to Helen Ranger, principal of the company, "It is tragic to disappoint so many people who left it until the last moment to book. It is not only the moderately priced properties that have filled up, but also across the broad spectrum of what's on offer."

Other observers have also attributed the upswing in tourist bookings to the popularity of the Sufi Festival

Ms Ranger went on to comment, "April is very busy but there are still opportunities for accommodation in May leading up to the Sacred Music Festival. Festival time will be hectic and then thankfully there will be riads and guest houses available through June, July and August."

The moral of the story is: don't leave booking your accommodation until the last minute.

More on the festivals in Fez
Fez Festival of Sufi Culture
Sacred Music Festival

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Travel guilt versus bragging rights.

One of the saddest and most bizarre notions we have come across in travel writing recently has just surfaced in the online USA Today. It revolves around a new phenomena called "travel guilt" - the idea that travelling is somehow wrong during the so-called financial crisis.

She had planned to visit the Medina in Fez, the souks in Marrakesh and the mosques in Casablanca. But the Moroccan vacation would have set Nancy Yale back $15,000 for her family of five. And after laying off a full- and part-time employee last fall, the travel agency owner in Fairfield, Conn., decided to scrap the December trip.

"I just didn't think it was prudent. It wasn't a good message," she says.

Call it luxury shame, stealth wealth or guilt downsizing. Even if you've "got it" — and maybe especially if you've got it — economic times like these are no time to flaunt it.

In a time when posh has become a four-letter word, forget about keeping up with the Joneses. It's more socially expedient to stay down with them. Economic turmoil is giving luxury a bad name, it seems, and not just among the private-jet set, either. The desire to tone down consumption is affecting how some Americans vacation — or at least how they say they vacation.

What is so off putting about this scrambled piece of logic that it is all about "me". Nancy Yale is more concerned about what her friends and employees might think of her than anything else. And the phrase "flaunting it"? Is that why some people travel? Such self-centred thinking does not take into account the good that travellers can do in countries like Morocco who depend so heavily on tourism.

At a time of economic downturn, spreading your wealth around would have been a good thing, Nancy. But, do check with your travel agent (oh, I see you are one), because most people with an itinerary like that could have found a fare and accommodation for less than $15000. Or is it that you need to stay in only five star accommodation so you can gain "cred" with your social set? And, Nancy, while we are on the case, try spring or fall, rather than December, the weather is so much better.

"Luxury shame is very real," says travel industry analyst Henry Harteveldt of Forrester Research. "When your neighbors are losing their jobs and you're doing well, you don't flaunt your success. Of course, there are still people who will continue to enjoy the fruits of their success. They may still rent the beachfront home and continue to fly in the G5 and tool around in the leased Bentley, but they're not going to go home and brag that that's what they did on vacation."

Maybe people need to travel for the rewards of cultural exchange, new experiences and not for the bragging rights?

The good news? According to the Fes Riads, the top accommodation specialists for people wanting to stay in genuine riads in the Medina of Fez, "I am getting more enquiries than ever".

Nancy, you should get over your guilt trip, give her a call - and save yourself a bundle.


Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Andalous Riad

Helen Ranger went exploring in the Andalous quarter and came across an interesting riad ...


The medina of Fez offers lots of places to stay north of the river, but when it comes to the Andalous quarter, this is the first one that Helen Ranger has come across. Owned by a trio of Brits, Riad Rmila is large and airy and has a spacious courtyard and garden with fountain. They'd like to rent out the house for holidays to finance the renovation of another house they've bought. This one has been well renovated, keeping the original tiles and plaster as far as possible, only augmenting them where necessary. There are two double bedrooms and two singles, and bathrooms are a treat; the one on the ground floor has a jacuzzi too.

Most visitors to Fez are familiar with the view of the Chaouwara tanneries. This house has a view of the pits from the other side, which puts a quite different perspective on things.

Best approached from R'cif, it's a ten minute walk from the taxi rank there. It's not for the faint-hearted, being in an area of the medina where you simply don't see any tourists ... yet. But there's a guardian to show you where the house is. It's interesting that just a couple of years ago, anywhere out of the Batha area was considered a bit risque, but houses in more and more areas of the medina are being bought up by westerners to convert into guesthouses or simply houses to rent for holidays.

You can find out more about Riad Rmila at Fez Riads or www.riadrmila.com.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

A sensual treat in Marrakech

Our resident food critic and gourmet guide has been on the road to seek out the great eating places around the country. This last weekend El Glaoui was in Marrakech and sent this report:

Marrakech is foodie heaven and so it is hard to pick favourites but when you mix in ambiance, price and cuisine you begin to get an idea of what is a good eating place and what is an overpriced establishment with boring food and nothing really to offer but pretension. However... however then there is the Brasserie Orientale Le Tanjia - or simply Le Tanjia for short.

Situated in Derb J'did in the Medina, it is easy to find and worth finding. The food is Moroccan, but with variations and some other dishes on offer. The salads are some of the best I have had.

What makes Le Tanjia worth visiting is the combination of atmosphere and friendliness of the staff. Service was prompt and while the drinks were on the expensive side, they were not as outrageous as many Marrakech eateries who seem to think that every visitor is a Texas oil billionaire or a French merchant banker. No, Le Tanjia was good on price - value for money.

The crowd were a mixture of locals, the young and the adventurous. It was a fun evening and a place I would visit again.

Details:

14 Derb J’did – Hay Essalam
Mellah, Medina – Marrakech
Phone + 212 (0) 24 38 38 36 / +212 (0) 24 38 42 42
Fax +212 (0) 24 38 38 40
Mobiles +212 (0) 61 42 74 22 / +212 (0) 63 51 99 92
letanjia@yahoo.fr

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news