Fes Festival 2018 - Accommodation Still Available

The Fes Festival starts on June 22nd and if you have not booked a place to stay, now is the time to do it.

During the festival accommodation is normally at a premium, but a quick internet search reveals that there are still places available. This is not expected to last.

According to Booking.com there are 237 available properties. AirBnb is advertising almost 300 rooms.

It is good advice to rent a place inside the Medina, rather than in the Ville Nouvelle, as this avoids transport hassles getting to concert venues. Staying in the Medina is essential to enjoy the full Fez experience.

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Airbnb and Booking.com to be Taxed in Morocco

According to the US site Bloomberg, Airbnb and Booking.com will be taxed in Morocco from 2019. It is seen as a victory for Moroccan hoteliers and travel agencies, and will result in a possible price increase for users of both booking platforms

The new tax, effective in 2019, is expected to delight professionals in the Moroccan tourism sector who have been denouncing the lack of tax fairness for several months.

According to Medhi Taleb, central director in charge of regulation, quality and development at the Ministry of Tourism, quoted in the article of our colleagues, "undercover inspectors will work in collaboration with officials of the Ministry of Tourism as well as responsible for the tax authorities to ensure the application of this measure".

According to the same source, the authorities will also help Moroccan online travel platforms to offer attractive offers to strengthen their presence on international sites such as Booking.

A tax that has proven itself in Europe

With the implementation of this new measure, Morocco will join the list of countries that apply taxes to such platforms. A list that already includes France, Spain, Germany or the United States.

In large cities in France for example, where the number of nights is limited to 120, professionals who provide a booking service or rental of accommodation online are subject to the tourist tax. For the year 2017, Airbnb will for example pay €13.5 million to local authorities in France.

On December 8, the French National Assembly decided that from January 1, 2019, municipalities may increase the tourist tax on this type of accommodation.

Such a tax should, eventually, bring money back to the Moroccan state, as 60% of the 10 million tourists who arrive in Morocco plan their trips on the Internet.

But, as in France, the collection of this tax will inevitably have repercussions on the users. The site of Airbnb states: " In the cities or regions where Airbnb has agreements with local authorities, Airbnb calculates the applicable local taxes and removes them from travellers at the time of Airbnb then pays the collected taxes to the relevant tax authorities on behalf of the hosts ".

The tax is welcomed by hoteliers and travel agencies in Morocco who have denounced the present situation as unfair competition. For Samir Kheldouni, CEO of Chorus Consulting, specialising in supporting tourism investors, this tax is a victory.

" Airbnb is an indispensable tourist actor in Morocco, but it is perfectly normal that it be taxed in the same way as the conventional hotel business.This situation of unfair competition was no longer acceptable, " he says.

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Essaouira Struggles With Illegal Renters

Tourism officials say that the industry is being undermined in Essaouira by the informal sector operators such as Airbnb. Illegal renters are said to be avoiding tax and local regulations

Airbnb is a paid community rental and reservation platform for private homes created in 2008 by two Americans. In 2015, the website already contains more than 1.5 million ads in 34,000 cities including Essaouira. With a few clicks, you will have find hundred listings of riads, villas, guest houses, country houses, and apartments in Essaouira. Yet, the city has only 150 legally classified tourist accommodation establishments.

Essaouira is not alone in its struggle. A recent article in the Huffington Post pointed out similar problems in New Orleans. Global tourist destinations like San Francisco, New York, Berlin, and Amsterdam have passed restrictions on the use of the service to protect neighbourhoods from becoming hollowed out. Some regulations are far stricter than others, and in some cases they have sparked legal battles. The laws typically limit how often you can rent out your home. In Europe, some cities fine Airbnb when homes are listed illegally. Enforcement varies.

The problem is exacerbated by there being no restraint on booking. Simply check out the Internet to get contacts and prices. Some establishments are charging over 3000 DH per night. Money, a lot of money, is circulating across borders in the accounts of owners who manage their (illegal) business via the Internet and telephone.

According to the law (Law 80-14) relating to tourist establishments and other forms of tourist accommodation, a tourist establishment is considered to be any establishment of a commercial nature, which receives a passing or staying clientele and provides it with an offer of accommodation, and services, in whole or in part, catering and animation.

According to Article 5 of the Act, which clearly defines the nine types of tourist accommodation establishments, the opening of an establishment of this type is subject to an operating license issued in accordance with the procedures laid down by regulatory authorities. In addition, the operating permit may only be granted when the tourist accommodation establishment has been provisionally classified, the terms and conditions of which are fixed by regulation. The law could not be more demanding as regards the respect of size, safety, hygiene, and energy efficiency standards for any construction, transformation or extension project of this type of establishment.

In Article 43, Law 80-14 sanctions vary from 50 to 500 thousand dirhams for opening tourist accommodation establishment without obtaining the operating authorisations provided for by law.

Hicham Jbari, mayor of Essaouira, says that the municipality has made an effort on the legal, institutional and administrative level, to deal with this problem, with a revision of the specifications governing the conditions for opening tourist accommodation establishments, constitution of a commission of external relations and tourism to study the files of the applicants of regularisation, and mobilisation of commissions of control for a better supervision of the sector.

Measures announced by the mayor encourage all the illegal owners working to regularise their situation while committing to provide them with the necessary assistance.

UNFAIR COMPETITION FROM THE INFORMAL SECTOR HAS PROFOUND AND NEGATIVE EFFECTS ON BOTH THE INTERESTS OF PROFESSIONALS AND THE REPUTATION OF THE DESTINATION

In addition to the huge tax losses registered by the state and the municipality because of this situation, the security risk remains very high due to the lack of a declaration of arrivals by informal accommodation establishments.

Restaurants in the tourist catering sector are also said to be operating in an informal way - without authorisation.

According to Law 80-14, a catering establishment is classified as a "tourist restaurant" according to the procedures and according to the minimum dimensional, functional, hygiene, production of service and operating standards set by regulation. Therefore, any operator of a tourist restaurant must take out insurance, constantly ensure the qualification, the good behaviour and the morality of the staff during the exercise of his work, ensure the promotion of the prices, deliver to each customer an invoice or a receipt
.
"Fair competition never hurts; it motivates us and pushes us to improve our services. On the other hand, the unfair competition of the informal sector has negative and profound effects on both the interests of the professionals and the notoriety of the destination. The fiscal, social and hygiene differential with the structured establishments remains enormous in the absence of a rigour which could help Essaouira to leave the era of the souk towards a structured and better organised tourist restoration," lamented a tourist restaurateur pointing out the popular cafes, snacks and grills that offer tourism catering without the conditions or authorisation.

And now, the good news...

At the same time the city is getting a boost by being ranked by Lonely Planet as one of the "Top 10 Best Value Destinations to Visit Around the World in 2018".

Every year, the publisher of the Lonely Planet Travel Guide selects the best cities, destinations, regions and tourist countries in the world. This year, the "Best in Travel 2018" guide places the city of Essaouira in 6th position of "Best Value Destinations", offering the best value for money.

At the top of this list is the city of Tallinn Estonia. In second place, the guide recommends visiting Lanzarote Island (Spain). It is followed by Arizona (USA), La Paz (Bolivia), Poland and Essaouira, the only Arab and African destination to be present in this prestigious ranking.

With its natural, historical and cultural assets, Essaouira, a cosmopolitan city, has become a popular tourist destination. Its medina, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the island of Mogador, its port, dating from the eighteenth century and its beaches, allowing the practice of water sports, make the province an exceptional tourist destination and quality.

Essaouira is known for windsurfing and kitesurfing, thanks to the strong winds that blow almost constantly in the bay and the annual organisation of a stage of the Kitesurf World Cup.

The Medina of Essaouira, formerly known as Mogador, is an exceptional example of a fortified city of the mid-eighteenth century, surrounded by a wall Vauban style. His kasbah is also an architectural marvel.

In recent years, the city has organized the Gnaoua festival and other major artistic and cultural events, including the Atlantic Andalusia Festival, which attracts music lovers from all over the world.

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Tangier's El Minzah Hotel in Trouble

The El Minzah is not only a hotel but also an iconic monument. Since it was opened back in 1930,  it has numbered the rich, the famous and the notorious amongst its guests. Now, it is struggling to survive

Following an inspection by the tourism commission of control, the El Minzah has been stripped of two of its five stars.

According to the Ministry of Tourism, inspections revealed serious shortcomings, particularly in the kitchens where they found lack of maintenance as well as a severe lack of hygiene and food safety. Several shortcomings and deficiencies were also found in accommodation.

The Commission decided to grant the hotel fifteen days for it to comply with the hygiene and food safety requirements. Failure to meet the standards within this time will result in the hotel being closed. In the meantime it is reduced to a three star hotel.

El Minzah is now only 3 stars

Opened in April 1930 by  Scottish aristocrat,  Lord Bute, this hotel is distinguished by its Moorish style. Over the years El Minzah and its famous Caid's Bar have played host to the actors Rita Hayworth and Rock Hudson, the designer Yves Saint-Laurent and writers Tennessee Williams and Paul Bowles. Filmmaker Bernardo Bertolucci shot part of his Bowles inspired film The Sheltering Sky in the halls of El Minzah, as were some scenes of the recent Spanish series The Time Between Seams.


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Fez Accommodation Owners Face Difficult Times

Is half the tourist accommodation in the Fez Medina about to disappear? Tourist numbers are down in Fez (see story here) and accommodation owners are facing uncertain times. A new system of classifying tourist accommodation is a major cause of concern

There are currently 107 classified guest houses and many maisons prêtes à louer (fully furnished rentals). For many, their main source of reservations come through the accommodation website Booking.com.

In June, owners of tourist accommodation who advertise on Booking.com received a notification that, to continue operating, they needed a new identification number which would be issued by the Moroccan tourist authorities. They were informed that their advertisements would be deleted as from August, 1, 2016 if they failed to supply this number.

However, many owners are caught in a tricky situation - they are unable to ensure their properties qualify in order to obtain the identification number as there are, as yet, no criteria for doing so.

Laurence, the owner of a fully furnished rental of three rooms, which has been operating since 2009, echoes what many owners are saying, "I am extremely worried about the future of my business. Ninety per cent of my turnover is made via Booking.com".

This situation has a long history. In December 2008, at a meeting organised by the Wali with the foreign owners, the director of the CRT (Regional Tourism Committee) of Fez announced that the long awaited law allowing the classification of small guest houses of three and four rooms was about to be released. In the meantime, the authorities invited the owners to adjust to the standards of maisons prêtes à louer which were presented as a legal and compliant solution.

At that same meeting, the president of the A.R.M.H (Regional Association of Guest Houses) approved this type of classification and gave his full support to owners who satisfied the fiscal and administrative conditions for this category.

Eight years after that meeting, the law proposed by the authorities has been approved by the parliament. However, the details are yet to be released. Until they are, accommodation owners in the Fez Medina do not know how to comply with the new requirements of the tourist authorities. This puts in jeopardy the businesses and livelihoods of Moroccan and foreign owners, and hundreds of their employees, in the Fez Medina.

Mayor of Fez, Mr Driss Azami Idrissi has shown leadership

A further complication is that there appears to be confusion with the CRT and the ARMH mixing up illegal accommodation and maisons prêtes à louer. The ARMH  has even suggested in the media the idea that ALL the houses unclassified by the tourist authorities are illegal and thus unsafe and unchecked.

Fortunately, there has been leadership shown by top figures in Fez's administration. In response to the dismay of the owners of maisons prêtes à louer, the Mayor of Fez, Mr Driss Azami Idrissi, organised a meeting about this sensitive issue with the concerned parties.

He made a commitment to contact his counterpart at the Ministry of the Tourism to get an extension of the deadline notified by Booking.com, while waiting for the details of the new law.

Fez has a desperate need to increase tourism and offering a wide range of accommodation gives a better choice for visitors. 

Background history:
2008 The View From Fez 
2009 The View From Fez

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Fez's Unique Hotel Sahrai Opens

The newest five star hotel in Fez officially opened on Monday November 17. Hotel Sahrai is the vision of co-owner Anis Sefrioui, and fulfils a life long dream

Hotel Sahrai's manager, Guillaume Binder, and co-owner Anis Sefrioui 

"When I was growing up in Fez, there was a old house on this site, with arcades. I always dreamed to build a hotel here," says Anis Sefrioui.

He was speaking at the opening of the Hotel Sahrai, last night, which was attended by a selected coterie of invited guests, including Moroccan Minister for Tourism Lahcen Haddad.

"We want Fez to be a high end cultural destination," said Mr Haddad. "This hotel is part of that, but we need more like it. It's an excellent mix of traditional Islamic design and is very modern also, with a wonderful view of the Medina."

Moroccan Minister for Tourism Lahcen Haddad

It took five years of negotiation for Mr Sefrioui to purchase the property, located on the hill between the new city and the Medina, and another three years to design and build it.

The realisation of Mr Sefrioui's vision is made even more significant, as the hotel's manager, Guillaume Binder, is an old friend from his days of studying hospitality in Lausanne in Switzerland. "We met on the first day of our studies, and we've been friends ever since," says Mr Sefrioui.

The hotel was designed by rising talent Paris-based interior designer Christopher Pillet. "He achieved the objective of making a contemporary hotel with a specifically Moroccan identity," says Mr Sefrioui. It uses local materials, such as Taza stone and hand carved plaster, but with creative, modern flair.

There are 50 rooms, with views of Fez and the Atlas mountains, a large outdoor swimming pool, rooftop bar and lounge bar, a Givenchy spa and two restaurants. Relais de Paris offers a continental menu - it's rumoured a renowned international chef is starting there soon - and Amaraz has gourmet Moroccan dishes.

Unique and unusual artwork, inspired by Moroccan crafts, adorns the hotel walls and entry hallway. At last night's opening, the work of conceptual artist Eric Van Hove was on display. "He's used a Mercedes engine as inspiration, and got Moroccan craftspeople to replicate it using traditional materials," said Stephen di Renza, creative director for Jardin Majorelle in Marrakech. "The work has been bought by Dartmouth College in the US, but I believe it will first tour to I'Institute du Monde Arabe."

Above and below: artwork by Eric Van Hove, inspired by a Mercedes engine

For further info on Hotel Sahrai: CLICK HERE

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Morocco - the view from abroad

A recent article in an Australian weekend newspaper is a reminder of how enduring cliches about Morocco can be. Moroccan tourism authorities have a vested interest in maintaining an Orientalist view of the country, however, the truth is far richer and may appeal even more to travellers.

If you were a reader of the Sun Herald newspaper in Australia, you could be forgiven for thinking that the only place worth visiting in Morocco is Marrakech. Of its last eighteen travel stories, all were about Marrakech.

"PART CIRCUS, PART HISTORY LESSON... MOROCCO IS A SOUL-STEALING PLACE" - Sunday Life 

A recent list of the "Top Ten Exotic Locations" for 2013 had Morocco at number nine. But what consitutes exotic?

ex·ot·ic [ig-zot-ik]
adjective
1. of foreign origin or character; not native; introduced from abroad, but not fully naturalized or acclimatized: exotic foods; exotic plants.
2. strikingly unusual or strange in effect or appearance: an exotic hairstyle.

A family of Moroccans from Errachidia, finding themselves in Australia on Sydney's Bondi Beach would certainly find it exotic. It is also certain they would find the Mardi Gras, Aboriginal cultural performances and countless other Australian attractions extremely exotic. Yet a search through Australian tourism websites shows that the word "exotic" is not a selling point.

"Set in a luxurious private compound, overflowing with whimsical sculptures, on the outskirts of Marrakesh, Harem is not your usual spa retreat. Sure, it evokes Moroccan exotica and, of course, it offers healthy food, foot baths and facials, but it is primarily a place of discovery, of surprise."

And there is a new "exotic" Morocco - that of the glamours world of the Palmeraie, a twenty minute drive from Marrakech. This high-end destination is getting a lot of media attention because many of the hotel and spa owners can afford to sponsor trips for journalists. But, is it a "Moroccan experience"?

On the plus side is the growth of boutique tourism where small companies arrange holidays and tours that have specific interests at their heart. This is a growing area in Morocco with tours based on music, art and architecture, culinary adventures, design, photography and painting all now available.

Overseas bookings are up 20 per cent on last year. 'Hawaii and Thailand are completely booked out due to the strength of the Aussie dollar and the recent events in Fiji. And I've never seen Bali so busy. - David Goldman of Goldman Travel in Bondi Junction

AdvertisementApart from the strong dollar, he said many high-end travellers were finding better value for money overseas. ''We're finding that people want a bit of a culture fix,'' he said. ''

So, with the exchange rates so good, Australians are travelling more. But when asking a bunch of friends about destinations, they almost all opt for "safe choices"...nothing exotic. Ironically, they are more likely to be mugged in Rome, ripped off in Paris or encounter bomb threats in London than have negative experiences in Morocco.

The fact that Morocco is usually a safe destination and one suitable for solo women travellers is being recognised and there are now dozens of "retreats", "surf workshops", "yoga weeks" and "spa holidays" being advertised.


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You Are Welcome in Morocco Ms Putin!

Vladimir Putin’s youngest daughter, Yekaterina is apparently about to tie the knot with her Korean boyfriend Yoon Joon-won in Morocco sometime soon. Derek Workman writes that one Marrakech riad has taken the initiative and offered the Russian President, or his daughter, a room.

You are welcome here any time, Ms Putin!

"The Russian President supposedly visited Marrakech this week to sort out the hush-hush wedding of his daughter, that will probably take place La Mamounia Hotel. All I can say, Vlad dear, is that if La Mamounia is over-booked I’m sure we can help you at Villa Dinari."

They may not get the booking, but they certainly gain points for trying!

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Last Minute Accommodation in Fez for the Fès Festival

Over the last couple of day The View from Fez has received a number of requests for information about accommodation during the Fès Festival of World Sacred Music. Most of the riads and guest houses are full, but we have discovered a small number of places available.

If you intend to stay for the full festival, then there is also the possibility of a 20% discount at some, but not all of the guest houses.

Should you need to find a place to stay, then please email us at theviewfromfez@gmail.com and we will put you in touch with the guest house owners.

Please also ensure that you have booked your festival tickets. You can do so online here: Fès Festival.

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TripAdvisor - Maintain a Healthy Scepticism

TripAdvisor.com is a travel website that claims to assist customers in gathering travel information, posting reviews and opinions of travel-related content and engaging in interactive travel forums. TripAdvisor was a pioneer of user-generated content. The website services are free to users, who provide most of the content. Its sites have regularly claimed it has "reviews that you can trust" and that it had "more than 50 million honest travel reviews". Sadly this is not true and UK's Advertising Standards Authority has ordered TripAdvisor to rewrite some of its marketing claims.  

Concerns over what the ASA described as consumers being fooled by fraudulent posts have been around for a long time. Back in 2006, after getting complaints from readers The View from Fez warned travellers to be cautious about using TripAdvisor. Then, in April 2010 we published (see story here)  the results of a London Sunday Times investigation that showed:

1) “Guests” who have never even stayed at a hotel can boost or depress its rating by posting fake reviews.
 2) Poorly rated establishments can lift their reputations from one to four stars in a matter of hours by posting fictional positive reviews.
 3) Some establishments attempt to damage the reputations of rivals. So tough is the competition that even top hotels and restaurants would consider placing fake reviews to maintain their status.

In November 2011 The Times revealed that more than 80 hotel and B&B owners claimed to have been blackmailed by guests who threatened to write bad reviews if they didn't get paid. The Times continued its critique of TripAdvisor in today's edition, saying that "fake reviews have forced restaurants and hoteliers out of business and caused great distress to bed and breakfast owners."

In September 2010 a group of over 420 hospitality operators considered taking TripAdvisor to court over unfounded and unedited reviews posted by the website’s visitors.

Now the Advertising Standards Authority has laid down the law to TripAdvisaor and says the ruling served as a warning to all sites with user-generated material. It said that two hotels and the online reputation firm Kwikchex, which represented others, had complained that the claims were misleading since they could not be substantiated. The advertising body said it acknowledged that reviewers were asked to sign a declaration that their reviews were real and that they had no incentive or competitive interest with the places commented on.

“Don't major on trustworthiness if fake reviews can appear” -  Guy Parker ASA chief executive 

The ASA ordered the site to not claim or imply that all its reviews were from real travellers, or were honest, real or trusted. "This should be regarded as a benchmark ruling which applies to all web sites which make claims about the reliability of their user-created content," said the ASA's spokesman Matthew Wilson.

ASA Chief executive Guy Parker said that advertising rules policed by the authority applied to companies' claims on their own websites. "This is a classic example of the sort of thing that members of public are complaining to us about," he said. "Advertisers must apply the same scrutiny to their websites, as they do to their campaigns in paid-for space. And don't major on trustworthiness if fake reviews can appear."

The tripadvisor.co.uk homepage now contains no reference to the word "trust" and simply describes itself as "the world's largest travel site". However, its international tripadvisor.com address - which is accessible in the UK - continues to describe its content as the "world's most trusted travel advice" in the corresponding part of the page. It adds elsewhere that "you'll find real hotel reviews you can trust".

TripAdvisor has responded saying that there is a “healthy scepticism” of user reviews in general and that “mitigated the effect of any fraudulent content that might occasionally come to a user’s attention”. In its submission to the ASA TripAdvisor said due to the non-transactional nature of its model it was not possible to verify every reviewer by reference to credit card or reservation details.

Meanwhile, major hotel chains are opting to avoid the trust problem completely by adding customer reviews to their own websites with a majority opting for verified reviews rather than incorporating TripAdvisor reviews. Starwood, Marriott and Four Seasons have all launched customer reviews on their websites since October 2011 and others are planning to do the same.

Will the ruling and the adverse publicity have any effect on TripAdvisor? Most people The View from Fez talked to thought not. As one English owner of a rental property told us, 'Unfortunately there are a lot of tourists who are what we call Starbuck's tourists - they are like lemmings, following the herd. It doesn't matter what country they are in they want Starbucks coffee, McDonalds burgers and their only travel research is on TripAdvisor.'

Christina, a veteran traveller told us "I was already suspicious about TripAdvisor reviews after the last place I stayed in Fez had one hundred percent positive responses. This ruling confirms my suspicions."

For the true TripAdvisor sceptics, there is a website :http://tripadvisorwatch.wordpress.com/

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From Ruin to Riad

A newly opened riad in the Fez Medina offers a garden of earthly delights.

Owner of Riad Idrissy, John Twomey

Dynamic is the word that springs to mind when meeting John Twomey. The night after holding a huge party, he is hosting a large dinner at his new guest house in the Fez Medina, Riad Idrissy and is on the phone to London with a contractor about installing a kitchen in his new restaurant there. Meanwhile he is also monitoring what is going on at the 250 year old pub he already owns. In between juggling all this, he is regaling his guests with jokes too risque to be recounted. At 41 years old, Irishman Twomey is making the most of his event-filled life.

"There are two ways of living - vegetating and getting on with it," he says. Naturally, he is passionately aligned with the latter group. "I am aware of the length of time I've got left, so believe you should live everyday like it is your last."

Born in Dublin, Twomey spent twenty years fencing for Ireland - for a decade he was the National Fencing Champion. "I've lived in Germany, Spain, Estonia, Hungary and spent a lot of time in France," he says. Along the way, he picked up a bevy of languages, including Russian and Estonian. Then he got involved in starting a bank, "so I was able to enjoy careers in banking and fencing hand-to-hand".

But when he moved to London in 1996, he went off on another tangent altogether. Twomey fell in love with the Ten Bells pub in Spitalfields, an old area of the city  notorious for the Jack the Ripper murders. The heritage-listed Ten Bells was built in 1753 and had previously been run by Jamie Oliver's great-great grandfather.

"Restoring the pub was good training for a 500 year old building in Fez," Twomey says.

Interior of Riad Idrissy

Twomey first came to Fez on an exploratory trip with Mike Richardson, the proprietor of the renowned Cafe Clock in Fez and Scorpion House at Moulay Idriss. By the end of their first weekend, both had purchased properties.

It's taken six years to restore Riad Idrissy to a high standard. Complementing the traditional painted wood and intricate plaster carving that are a significant feature of the interior, are an eclectic collection of objects from around the African continent.

One of the many objects from around Africa

The guest house, which has just opened, has four guest rooms with ensuites. Twomey has bought a bit of London luxury to Fez, with heated towel rails and anti-fog mirrors. "You can come for the weekend and spend it in one of our bathrooms," Twomey quips.

Four guest bedrooms are decorated in different styles

A distinctive feature of the property is the ruined riad behind the grand traditional house. When Twomey puchased the site, it was under several metres of rubble. When cleared, this revealed tiled floors and Pompeii-like remants of walls. Riad manager, Robert Johnstone - who worked in senior roles at prestigious London restaurants The Ivy and The Wolseley - has converted this area into a delightful garden, where meals can be served.

A section of the garden created from the adjoining ruined riad

Twomey clearly has a talent for creating situations that bring people together. Riad Idrissy promises to be both a retreat and a place where many more enjoyable gatherings will be held.

For more details, see riadidrissy.com or email Robert Johnstone on erskine.johnstone@hotmail.co.uk 

Story and photos by Suzanna Clarke

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Ryad Salama Opens in Fez

Today The View from Fez was lucky enough to get a preview of the latest guest house to open in Fez. Ryad Salama (le luxe autrement) is not a traditional Medina house, but rather a superbly renovated riad that combines many styles. Too often a mixture of styles can end up as a confusing mess. Not in this case. The time and thought that has gone into its design has produced an elegant gem of a house that feels more like a home than a guest house.

The creative mind behind this enterprise is Michel Trezzy, a man with a lifetime of experience in the luxury end of the international hotel market along with forays into gourmet food and wine. He has worked in Dubai, in Boston, Florida, Disney Europe outside Paris and was the general manager of the Cascades Hotel at Sun City, South Africa.

Michel Trezzy is a generous and friendly host with a wonderful knowledge of good food, New World wines and, naturally, of Fez. Long-time residents will know of Michel from his time as a partner at Ryad Mabrouka. Arriving in September 2000, he spent a year and a half restoring Ryad Mabrouka and turning it into a successful business.

Michel has now opened his own guesthouse, Ryad Salama. The house was constructed early last century by one of the true aristocrats of Fez, Mohammed Chergui. Sadly it had fallen into disrepair and so this renovation was no quick fix. “When I first entered the house, I knew it was what I wanted and I had a vision of how it could be,” Michel reflects. It has taken much thought and five years of work to bring Michel’s vision into reality.

The location of the Ryad, so close to the major streets and accessible from Ain Azleten car park, make it a perfect base for exploring the Medina. In addition it has free Wifi and air-conditioning. Every one of the suites – delightfully named, Chocolatine, Clementine, Almondine, Aubergine, Eglantine and Capucine – have private balconies offering views of the central courtyard.

And this central courtyard is a work of art; the pool and beautiful gardens give the interior such a sense of peace and tranquillity that it is all too easy to forget there is a world outside. This is no accident, but the result of careful planning. As Michel says "My first impression of Fez was that it was both peaceful and amazing. What was amazing was that the people in the Medina can live in the Medina and have no need to go out of it. It is the same with the houses. Every house has a curved entrance so that the interior is not immediately visible, but comes as a surprise."

Remarkably the prices at this guesthouse are truly affordable, and as an opening special offer Michel is offering very good discount packages for all rooms, a night’s accommodation, welcoming drinks plus a superb French-Moroccan “fusion” dinner for only 1700 dirhams. A second night is offered at a large discount. This offer is only available from June 10 until September 10.

Always keen to hear about food, we asked Michel about the menu:

Gravelax de saumon à l’huile d’argan et zest de citrons confits (Michel's own homemade gravadlax of salmon with argan oil and zest of preserved lemons)

Filets de St Pierre aux cèpes de la forêt de Mamora (fillet of Saint Pierre with ceps mushrooms from the Marmora forest)

Epaule d’agneau au miel et à la cannelle (shoulder of lamb with honey and cinnamon)

Pastilla aux mangues (mango pastilla)

Filets d’agrume aux amandes caramélisées (citrus strips with caramelised almonds)

And Michel Trezzy is optimistic about the future. “We have had downturns in the past, after 9/11, after the Casablanca bombings and of course the present instability in some parts of the Arab world. But given the peaceful nature of Fez, the extended airport and stability in the region, Fez will again become a prime tourist destination.”

Contact details:
Tel (00 212) 535 635 730
Email: contact@ryadsalama.com
Website: www.ryadsalama.com
Ryad Salama can be booked through Fez Riads where you will also find a map of the location.

A Pasha's palace in Fez

When Michel Biehn first came to Fez, he knew immediately that this was where he wanted to live. There was one caveat: he had to have a garden. This was no easy task, as houses in the Fez medina are built hard up against each other and there are few properties with gardens.

However, Michel and his wife Catherine were fortunate to find the summer palace of Pasha Tayeb el Mokri in Douh. While it took six months to buy the property, several more to find alternative accommodation for those living there, and two years of renovation, the result is a fabulous concoction of whimsy and fantasy. Adorned with treasures that Michel has collected all his life, the house surrounds the large garden planted with roses, citrus trees, olives, herbs and vegetables.

"We never lost confidence", reports Michel, "and the result is magical!"

Si Tayeb el Mokri was the son of Grand Vizier Mohammed el Mokri, and Minister of Finance under the reign of Moulay Hafid until 1912. Once Mohamed V came to power, Si Tayeb became Pasha of Casablanca from 1927 until his death in Fez in 1949.

Si Tayeb el Mokri

Si Tayeb was an interesting figure, and to this day local people have stories to tell about him. He was a powerful man, and even the coinage bore his image. But he was also a man of great taste and refinement. He was a traveller, a pianist and great lover of music. He was the first to import a grand piano to Morocco. Entranced by anything new, Si Tayeb was the first to have electricity in the medina, and installed a costly hydraulic sound system in his palace so that all rooms were supplied with the sound of musicians playing. His four wives, too, played violin and oud, and often gave concerts for their husband.

El Mokri had his own photographic studio. People say that he photographed everything around him, all his life, even the most intimate moments. But unfortunately, shortly before his death, he destroyed all the plates.

But for all this, Si Tayeb had to get away sometimes from the formality of the Mokri Palace. So in 1906 he built himself a summer palace in an ancient garden full of olive and citrus trees. Here our Pasha would be able to relax, far from worldly cares, and surround himself with entertaining friends.

Over time, other buildings were erected around the garden to house his black servants - he only ever had black servants - and, so it's said, his numerous illegitimate children.

Today the estate has been beautifully restored as a guesthouse called Le Jardin des Biehn. The largest suite was once Si Tayeb's quarters - a sumptuous bedroom with its own halka (roof opening to the sky), two salons, a large bathroom, a poolroom with one hot and one cold tub, and its own entrance to the ancient hammam. One of the guest salons contains several photographs of the Mokris, as a family member living nearby gave them to the Biehns to adorn the house. The estate also houses the Fez Cafe, open to the public for lunch and dinner.

part of the Pasha Suite

see www.jardindesbiehn.com
reservations: www.fez-riads.com
Fez Cafe: tel 0660 669 479

Preview of new riad in Fez

Michel and Catherine Biehn opened the doors of their beautiful riad last night to celebrate the end of the construction phase of the project.

Le Jardin des Biehn is a large estate of around 2500sqm situated on Aqbat Sebaa in the Fes Medina. There's a beautiful garden (pictured above) with trees, flowing water and fountains. The guesthouse will have nine rooms arranged around the garden and is due to open within a month or so.

Michel Biehn

The house has been restored with care and decorated with flair and elegance, but retains its simplicity. M Biehn is a well-known antiquarian, decorator and collector specialising in fabrics and old costumes, and has published several books.

So far, only one room has been furnished, and it gives us an inkling of what's to come:




One end of the garden will house the Fez Cafe which will be open to the public. It will specialise in flavours of the orient - not only Morocco, but other countries such as Lebanon and Turkey - and will offer a daily menu of soup, salad, pasta, all marked up on a blackboard. As M Biehn has published some cookery books, we have high expectations! The Cafe has wonderful lighting and features the ubiquitous star image found all over the house.

There's even a football table, as Frederic Calmes discovered:

At the entrance to the riad is a gallery, where M Biehn intends to mount various exhibitions. Here are some of his own pieces on show at the moment:

We wish the Biehns every success and look forward to the opening of their exquisite riad.

All photographs: Sandy McCutcheon

Odd spot! Doorstep skiing in Fez

A South African website is offering an apartment to rent in Fez, only 60 yards away from the ski slope ...

At less than Dh3000 per week for four to six people, this sounds like a steal. Where exactly the ski slope is in Fez remains to be seen.

The nearest ski resort to Fez is Mischliffen, just over an hour's drive from the city. Not exactly 60 yards.

Oh, and a postscript: The number of people who have been asking us about the swimming beach in Fez... oh, dear. Do look at a map.

New hotel in Fez medina

The Palais Amani in the Fez Medina is a new hotel that's been open for just a few weeks. The View from Fez team went to investigate.

the courtyard

Situated in Blida with parking at nearby Oued Zhoune, the house is a large riad with nine suites and five rooms. There's a library, salon, hammam with massage room, dining room and rooftop bar and dining terraces.

Co-owner Jemima explains that the house is one of the largest in the medina. It was rebuilt after a landslide in the late 1920s which explains its pleasing art deco feel. The current restoration process took two years. The central courtyard has an enormous garden with citrus trees, and a particularly beautiful fountain.

The rooms are pure luxury. All have a private sound system and wifi, and beautiful linen. No expense has been spared with furniture (made in Marrakech), fittings and art. The bathrooms are sumptuous.

the bedroom in the grand suite

and its bathroom

Palais Amani has a spa with a large hammam with several rooms, including a well-appointed massage room. On offer are a variety of massage and beauty treatments. They have their own range of massage oils made with essences from the Ourika valley. In good weather, you might prefer a massage in the rooftop tented pergola.

The restaurant is open to non-guests. At midday, lunch is served on the roof terrace, and the menu includes Mediterranean dishes as well as Moroccan fare. Dinner is served in the dining room and offers Moroccan food.


On our visit, we sampled the lunch menu under parasols on the terrace. Fresh salads and home-made quiche, followed by coffee and excellent desserts came to Dh375 for two, including wine and a tip.

With room prices ranging from Dh1950 to Dh5500 for two per night in high season, the Palais is unashamedly luxurious and is a welcome addition to options for staying in Fez.