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Berber Guest House 
Visiting the sand dunes in the Sahara is part of most trips to Morocco. Usually this involves a long drive from Fez, across the Middle Atlas and down to Erg Chebi. Well, according to some reports, in the future you might not have to travel so far too see them, as they are on the move.
In an interesting article in the Mail & Guardian Online, (Sand dunes creep up on Morocco's palm trees) Abderrahim El Ouali reports a bleak outlook for the locals.
Here is an extract:
Visitors to Morocco have often been tempted by pictures with the proverbial palm tree somewhere in the frame. But fewer and fewer of these trees are now around, and at this rate of decline the visitors of the future might not find any at all.
The picture is changing; it is now of the Sahara desert advancing into once-green stretches. More than 22 000ha of arable land disappear under the desert every year now in Morocco, according to official figures.
Desertification is now threatening all of the country. The Ministry of the Environment has said that almost 93% of Morocco is affected by aridity.
Date palms are the most ravaged by desertification. At the end of the 19th century Morocco had an estimated 15-million date palms, according to a study by geographer Ahmed Harrak. That number has now slipped to 4,5-million.
In losing date palms the local population "loses the main source of income, and is consequently forced to abandon the land and leave", says M Achlif, a member of the independent Moroccan Association for Development and Solidarity.
Many Moroccans believe they can do little because the main causes of advancing desertification appear to be natural. "North Africa is mostly an arid or semi-arid region," geographer Bouazza Zahir says. "For every 1 000 square kilometres, Morocco has 700 square kilometres of arid land."
Land could now be lapsing into arid conditions more rapidly as sources of water are getting reduced, Zahir said.
Read the full story here. Morocco's Sand Dunes.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Tuesday, October 31, 2006
A day trip from Fez
For those with a reasonable amount of time in Fez, day trips are a great way to take a break from the Medina. The usual destinations are Meknes and Volubilis. However today we would like to suggest another town in the Middle Atlas with a country souq. Every week in Morocco there are more than 800 country souqs held. Usually the name of the souq is the name of the day on which it is held. So being Tuesday, we headed to the Tuesday souq at Azrou.
Travelling by grand taxi ( about 500 - 600 dirhams for the day) six of us went via Imouzzer to the resort and university town of Ifrane where we paused for coffee. Most of the tour parties stop at the first hotel (Les Chamoix), but we would suggest going a little further into the town and trying one of the more reasonably priced cafes. Ifrane is a little like a European alpine village and the architecture will remind you of a Switzerland.
Friendly local outside Ifrane (see footnote)On past Ifrane you travel through cedar and oak forest ( we stopped to take a look at the wild life in the cedar forests)) to Azrou. The name is Berber for "rock" owing to a strange volcanic outcrop just outside the town. At 1250 metres it can be chill so go prepared.
The Tuesday Souq is hard to miss, as from early morning the people stream into the open area outside the town in their hundreds. Just inside the gates are some of the cheapest carpets ( compared to Fez) although the quality is variable. Bargain hard and you should be able to get something worthwhile. Look out for the red carpets with geometric motifs as these are the speciality of the Beni M'Gid Berbers who gave up the nomadic lifestyle and founded the town.
In the centre of the town is a strip of restaurants serving basic Moroccan dishes, but be prepared to pay tourist prices. A street meal that would usually cost six of us around 100 dirhams cost double that as we were charged for the usually complimentary olives and salad. Still, the chicken was delicious.
The Berber village of Ain Leuh, 30 km South of Azrou, is the venue for a Middle Atlas arts festival in July. Country markets are held here on Mondays and Thursdays.
Pics - Suzanna Clarke
Footnote: No monkey was harmed in creating this post!
In light of the fact that JULIA ROBERTS courted controversy this week when she posed for photographs with chained monkeys in Morocco we would like to say that the monkey in our photograph was an unchained pregnant female beside the road in the Middle Atlas. She agreed to pose after falling in love with our friend Mark's wristwatch.The problem started for the Oscar winner when she took time out of filming CHARLIE WILSON'S WAR to enjoy the sights of Marrakech. Roberts succumbed to the tourist attraction of cuddling up with performing Barbary monkeys in the city's famed Djemaa El Fna.
Animal rights groups and respected guides such as Lonely Planet encourage tourists to refrain from paying to pose with the macaques, who are kept in chains in the bustling city all day and are removed from their natural habitat in the nearby Atlas Mountains.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Monday, October 30, 2006
Fez Medina - post Ramadan.
With Ramadan over, the Fez Medina is getting back to the normal busy pace of life. The tour buses are back - ferrying groups from France, Spain and Italy. The Brits are also here in droves. Viewing from a vantage spot near the Bab Bou Jeloud is like watching a passing parade from the United Nations. Those in big groups trail along behind guides, trying to catch a word or two of what he's saying. Those either more savvy or with more cash are travelling in small groups of four or so, allowing them to get the full benefit of the guide's knowledge.
The tour guides of Fez are experts on the Medina and if you have done enough homework to ask the right questions, you will find them wonderfully erudite. However, if you simply trail along in their wake, you will get the standard descriptions of a few well known buildings. Today we spotted a couple of the female guides and although they are resented by some of their male colleagues, they are extremely good at their jobs.
The local expats have also been out in force. Jon and Jenny from the Fez Renovation Blog are back in town and looking well rested after their break, but still busy on the publicity trail, posing for an English women's magazine. Hopefully they will have a chance to crank up their blog again soon.
Diane, who has started work teaching English was spotted striding down the Tala'a Sghira, as was Louis of the Louis-Fes Blog was also enjoying the fine weather after the rain. As he says in his blog... "Not a lot to report as the workers are still on a Ramadan break should be back by the weekend to crack on to the second phase of putting the house back together. Its been raining here for a few days the first for ages which brings the Medina to a bit of a standstill and has us frantically covering open roofs with plastic to keep carpets dry."
The house buyers and renovators are back in town. Michael from England was seen happily enjoying a coffee in the Cafe Firdous while waiting for his first day of work with his builder. We wish him all the best for the months ahead. Linda and Allen have started the "decapo" ladies at work stripping the paint from their doors and Fred and Katinka are over the moon at having completed the restoration of their wonderful house - Riad Laaroussa. Have a look at their website.
From England, new arrival Jennie is having her first look at the property market and is excited about the prospect of using Fez as her base for humanitarian work in other parts of Africa.
From Ireland, Mark, Yvonne, Nathan and Nisha are staying at Riad Zany - having the "best holiday of their lives".
There is other gossip about - but we decided that you really don't want to know....
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
The tour guides of Fez are experts on the Medina and if you have done enough homework to ask the right questions, you will find them wonderfully erudite. However, if you simply trail along in their wake, you will get the standard descriptions of a few well known buildings. Today we spotted a couple of the female guides and although they are resented by some of their male colleagues, they are extremely good at their jobs.
The local expats have also been out in force. Jon and Jenny from the Fez Renovation Blog are back in town and looking well rested after their break, but still busy on the publicity trail, posing for an English women's magazine. Hopefully they will have a chance to crank up their blog again soon.
Diane, who has started work teaching English was spotted striding down the Tala'a Sghira, as was Louis of the Louis-Fes Blog was also enjoying the fine weather after the rain. As he says in his blog... "Not a lot to report as the workers are still on a Ramadan break should be back by the weekend to crack on to the second phase of putting the house back together. Its been raining here for a few days the first for ages which brings the Medina to a bit of a standstill and has us frantically covering open roofs with plastic to keep carpets dry."
The house buyers and renovators are back in town. Michael from England was seen happily enjoying a coffee in the Cafe Firdous while waiting for his first day of work with his builder. We wish him all the best for the months ahead. Linda and Allen have started the "decapo" ladies at work stripping the paint from their doors and Fred and Katinka are over the moon at having completed the restoration of their wonderful house - Riad Laaroussa. Have a look at their website.
From England, new arrival Jennie is having her first look at the property market and is excited about the prospect of using Fez as her base for humanitarian work in other parts of Africa.
From Ireland, Mark, Yvonne, Nathan and Nisha are staying at Riad Zany - having the "best holiday of their lives".
There is other gossip about - but we decided that you really don't want to know....
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Saturday, October 28, 2006
Moroccan News Briefs #28
Moroccan News Briefs published in The View From Fez draw on open source material, contributions from readers, as well as material from Maghreb Arabe Presse (MAP), Morocco Times and official Moroccan Government press releases.
Six killed in floods western Morocco
Six people were killed, on Wednesday, due to a river flood in the region of Safi (Atlantic coast), local sources reported Friday.
According to the same source, the people, who were siblings, died after the cab they were riding was swept by a flood on the so-called Ghshioua river, 50 Km southern Safi, while the driver is reported missing.
The combined efforts of local authorities, inhabitants and the rescue services made it possible to recover the bodies, certain of which have been carried over ten kilometers away.
As The View from Fez reported on Wednesday, four people were killed and two more are missing, following the torrential rains that hit the neighboring province of Essaouira.
Moroccan carrier to fly Brussels-Marrakech twice weekly.
The Moroccan « Royal Air Maroc » carrier is flying as of the end of March 2007 two weekly flights to link Brussels and Marrakech in partnership with Atlas Blue airliner, said Ahmed Benrbia, RAM representative to Benelux.
RAM is increasing its flights to Benelux countries to service the Moroccan community, tourists and businessmen in these European countries, said Benrbia adding his company is also reinforcing African destinations.
Benrbia told the Moroccan News Agency of the RAM projects on the dedication day of the new RAM office in Brussels, operational since July.
The RAM run Brussels-Casablanca air line is expected to fly 200,000 passengers by the end of 2006, with a monthly average of 18,000 customers, according to figures given to MAP.
The Brussels-Casablanca line operates six flights in average daily, including code share flights with the Belgian SN Brussels company. RAM services 10 weekly flight on the line and is contemplating to up its flights to 12 as of November.
The line also services additional flights in peak periods.
Benrbia affirmed RAM has been ready for the open sky system "for the past ten years" through the development of the Casablanca hub and the improvement of services and security in line with international standards.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Six killed in floods western Morocco
Six people were killed, on Wednesday, due to a river flood in the region of Safi (Atlantic coast), local sources reported Friday.
According to the same source, the people, who were siblings, died after the cab they were riding was swept by a flood on the so-called Ghshioua river, 50 Km southern Safi, while the driver is reported missing.
The combined efforts of local authorities, inhabitants and the rescue services made it possible to recover the bodies, certain of which have been carried over ten kilometers away.
As The View from Fez reported on Wednesday, four people were killed and two more are missing, following the torrential rains that hit the neighboring province of Essaouira.
Moroccan carrier to fly Brussels-Marrakech twice weekly.
The Moroccan « Royal Air Maroc » carrier is flying as of the end of March 2007 two weekly flights to link Brussels and Marrakech in partnership with Atlas Blue airliner, said Ahmed Benrbia, RAM representative to Benelux.
RAM is increasing its flights to Benelux countries to service the Moroccan community, tourists and businessmen in these European countries, said Benrbia adding his company is also reinforcing African destinations.
Benrbia told the Moroccan News Agency of the RAM projects on the dedication day of the new RAM office in Brussels, operational since July.
The RAM run Brussels-Casablanca air line is expected to fly 200,000 passengers by the end of 2006, with a monthly average of 18,000 customers, according to figures given to MAP.
The Brussels-Casablanca line operates six flights in average daily, including code share flights with the Belgian SN Brussels company. RAM services 10 weekly flight on the line and is contemplating to up its flights to 12 as of November.
The line also services additional flights in peak periods.
Benrbia affirmed RAM has been ready for the open sky system "for the past ten years" through the development of the Casablanca hub and the improvement of services and security in line with international standards.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Thursday, October 26, 2006
Torrential rain causes deaths in Morocco
Torrential rains struck Morocco over night. In Fez, the thunderstorms were spectacular and the heavy rains caused some localised flooding.
However, on the Atlantic coast, some 65 mm of rain in the area around Essaouira drowned four people with another two still missing. More than 60 head of cattle were also swept away when the Temanar river flooded.
The rains also caused major damage to many houses and shops. Streets in Essaouira were flooded and many other roads were also cut off.
A clean-up has began with help from the civil protection and local authorities.
More rain is expected between now and Saturday, but not expected to be as severe.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
However, on the Atlantic coast, some 65 mm of rain in the area around Essaouira drowned four people with another two still missing. More than 60 head of cattle were also swept away when the Temanar river flooded.
The rains also caused major damage to many houses and shops. Streets in Essaouira were flooded and many other roads were also cut off.
A clean-up has began with help from the civil protection and local authorities.
More rain is expected between now and Saturday, but not expected to be as severe.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Wednesday, October 25, 2006
Morocco - two Top Ten destinations for 2007
Trying to guess what travel destinations will be hot in 12 months time is a difficult task. If you are in the tourist trade, such information can help you structure your business affairs to take advantage of the trend. TripAdvisor have done just that, and the good news for Morocco is that it scores twice in the top ten, with Marrakech and Fez.
According to TripAdvisor, their engineers have developed a proprietary algorithm to discover what are the world's top tourist destinations. Called "travelcast", the algorithm looks at several criteria including changes in search activity and postings throughout one of the world's largest travel community, www.tripadvisor.com .
The TravelCast then predicts the rising stars in travel and the destinations that are losing steam. So, what are the emerging hotspots for 2007? Pamukkale, Turkey, Marrakech, Morocco and Puno, Peru top the list of rising stars. What hotspots have lost their luster? Miami, Honolulu and Acapulco, among others. The complete world top ten is provided below.
"Nearly 4,000 travelers have spoken about their vacation plans and preferences for 2007 and perhaps the most intriguing discovery is that adventures in the great outdoors has trumped luxuriating at the spa," said Michele Perry, director of communications for TripAdvisor. "We'll closely monitor our new TravelCast algorithm for predicting the hottest travel destinations in the world and we'll offer updates on the latest travel buzz throughout the year."
TripAdvisor TravelCast Top Ten Hot World Destinations for 2007
1. Pamukkale, Turkey
2. Parga, Greece
3. Ayr, Scotland
4. Campeche, Mexico
5. Marrakech, Morocco
6. Naxos, Greece
7. Puno, Peru
8. Soller, Spain
9. Salvador, Bahia, Brazil
10. Fes, Morocco,
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Most viewed posts - October 2006
Each month we track the most popular posts so that we can get an idea of what you like to read about. Here are the top posts from October.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Tuesday, October 24, 2006
Harley Davidson Rally arrives in Morocco
There are many ways to see Morocco and at this time of the year with Ramadan over and the mild weather arriving, a motorbike would take a lot of beating. Last year a group of 86 Harley riders from Spain toured the country. This year it is the turn of the riders in the 13th edition of the Harley Davidson race in Morocco and the Lyon-Dakar rally. The 18-day rally, started in the French town of Lyon on October 20 with a 900.000 Euro budget.
After riding from Tangier to Meknès on Monday the tour continues through the towns of Beni Mellal, Marrakech, Tiznit, Tan Tan, Dakhla and Laâyoune. Participants in the race come from Germany, Belgium, Canada, France, Netherlands, Italy and Switzerland.
The competition, sponsored by the "Difa" operator and the "têtes dans les étoiles" association, were welcomed yesterday at the Sahrij Souani historical and tourist site by the town's authorities. The Meknes program of the bikers and racers includes visits to the historical and tourist sites and monuments of the town.
The tour which is to help promote Moroccan tourism will leave Morocco and head for the Senegalese capital city through the Moroccan Sahara and Mauritania.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Monday, October 23, 2006
European Film Weeks to be held in Morocco
The European Commission in Rabat have just announced that the 16th edition of the European Film Weeks will be held in Morocco from November 21st to December 8th.
It will be held in in a variety of locations - Tangier, Rabat, Casablanca, Safi and Agadir.
This year the Film Weeks will feature directors such as the Spanish director, Pedro Almodovar, Ken Loach, the extraordinary Finn, Aki Kaurismaki, screenwriters representing the "rising generation" such as Lucas Belvaux, Emanuele Crialese, Christophe Honore and films of young directors such as Jamila Zbanic, Andreas Dresen and Bohdan Slama. Short films from the Southern bank of the Mediterranean are also envisaged in the programme.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
It will be held in in a variety of locations - Tangier, Rabat, Casablanca, Safi and Agadir.
This year the Film Weeks will feature directors such as the Spanish director, Pedro Almodovar, Ken Loach, the extraordinary Finn, Aki Kaurismaki, screenwriters representing the "rising generation" such as Lucas Belvaux, Emanuele Crialese, Christophe Honore and films of young directors such as Jamila Zbanic, Andreas Dresen and Bohdan Slama. Short films from the Southern bank of the Mediterranean are also envisaged in the programme.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Morocco's king pardons 617 prisoners.
King Mohammed VI granted free pardon to 617 people condemned by various courts of the Kingdom, on the occasion of Id Al Fitr, marking the end of the Holy month of Ramadan and to be celebrated in Morocco on Tuesday, this year.
Some of the pardoned prisoners have been in prison, while others were free. The pardons varied from the cancellation of the remaining imprisonment terms to the reduction of the prison time, as well as the commutation of life to limited time imprisonment.
The Sovereign also sent congratulation messages to Islamic heads of state on the occasion of the Id, that is celebrated in the world according to the Islamic calendar based on the lunar system.
King Mohammed VI underscored the mutual destiny of the Islamic peoples and the duty for Moslems to “secure the protection of their authentic identity” and to bolster their cooperation relations.
He affirmed Morocco's stance in favor of the just causes of the Arab nations, including Palestine, Iraq and the reconstruction of Lebanon, as well as national ones, particularly the country’s territorial integrity and national unity.
The religious celebration is to be observed on Tuesday in Morocco, according to a press release of the “Habous and Islamic Affairs” department, which stated that religious and government authorities did not spot the rise of the lunar crescent on Sunday, which makes the celebration fall on Tuesday.
The Islamic months are calculated according to the cyclic rise of the moon that occurs on the 29th or the 30th night of the month. The nations in the far East usually celebrate the Id a day earlier than the ones in the West due to the calculation system.
The View from Fez hopes you have a wonderful Id Al Fitr
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Some of the pardoned prisoners have been in prison, while others were free. The pardons varied from the cancellation of the remaining imprisonment terms to the reduction of the prison time, as well as the commutation of life to limited time imprisonment.
The Sovereign also sent congratulation messages to Islamic heads of state on the occasion of the Id, that is celebrated in the world according to the Islamic calendar based on the lunar system.
King Mohammed VI underscored the mutual destiny of the Islamic peoples and the duty for Moslems to “secure the protection of their authentic identity” and to bolster their cooperation relations.
He affirmed Morocco's stance in favor of the just causes of the Arab nations, including Palestine, Iraq and the reconstruction of Lebanon, as well as national ones, particularly the country’s territorial integrity and national unity.
The religious celebration is to be observed on Tuesday in Morocco, according to a press release of the “Habous and Islamic Affairs” department, which stated that religious and government authorities did not spot the rise of the lunar crescent on Sunday, which makes the celebration fall on Tuesday.
The Islamic months are calculated according to the cyclic rise of the moon that occurs on the 29th or the 30th night of the month. The nations in the far East usually celebrate the Id a day earlier than the ones in the West due to the calculation system.
The View from Fez hopes you have a wonderful Id Al Fitr
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Moroccan thriller - hits the spot.
"Rather than demonising Islamic terrorism, particularly Palestinian, McCutcheon opens a window into their desperate situation. This may well be the way forward in spy thrillers."
The reviews have started to come in for The Cobbler's Apprentice - the thriller with large sections set in Morocco and particularly in the Medina of Fez.
Jeff Popple, writing in the Canberra Times says:
The best of the current crop of terrorist novels is The Cobbler's Apprentice, by Australian author Sandy McCutcheon. This intelligent novel blends the machinations of the spy novel with the action and geopolitics of the international thriller to produce a credible and truly scary read. McCutcheon has a good grasp of modern-day politics and has concocted a clever plot that grips the reader's attention from the opening page to the final twist.
This is no black and white account of terrorism but an intricate, mufti-layered tale that captures the complexity of the war on terrorism and the people caught up in it. This is McCutcheon's finest novel to date and the best spy thriller I have read in some time.
Patricia Escalon writing for the Australia Council The Program says:
A spook thriller in the post-millenial jihadi era, The Cobbler's Apprentice keeps a furious pace, reeling in the reader from the opening sentences.
As a thriller, The Cobbler’s Apprentice hits the spot almost unerringly. Each chapter raises the stakes, compelling the reader to continue until the last page.
The bazaars in Fez heave around us. The smells assault our nostrils in our imagination. Funnily enough, we identify with Sami, our young mujahedeen. McCutcheon paints a very human portrait of Sami, one that reveals the motivations behind suicide bombers and the extremes that drive them to violence. Rather than demonising Islamic terrorism, particularly Palestinian, McCutcheon opens a window into their desperate situation. This may well be the way forward in spy thrillers.
Ross Fitzgerald writing in The Australian:
SANDY McCutcheon's latest fictive offering has a lot going for it. From Canada and the US to England, Cuba and Morocco, The Cobbler's Apprentice follows a young Palestinian, Samir Al-Hassani, who after being arrested in Iraq is held at Guantanamo Bay prison, from which he almost miraculously escapes. This sets up the book's basic tension: who is pulling the strings? Is it Samir's fellow jihadis, the Israeli secret service, the CIA and other agents based in Washington or a combination of the above?
The novel's central conceit -- terrorism and counter-terrorism via bacteriological warfare -- works extremely well. Along with airborne anthrax, pneumonic plague is one of the most virulent means of causing large-scale human casualties: the prospect of carriers infecting masses of people, especially in urban areas in the West, is terrifying indeed.
McCutcheon is most compelling describing the back streets of Morocco, especially the labyrinthine laneways of Fez. As a long-time Western agent reminisces, "Morocco had become one of his favourite destinations. Three times he had spent vacations touring the country, and twice agency business had taken him to Casablanca. Although he enjoyed most places in the country, it was Fez, with its extraordinary medina and old gardens, that lured him back time and again."
The Cobbler's Apprentice succeeds where many such novels fail.
The character of young Samir as a biological weapon of mass destruction, now aimed at those who released him, is utterly unforgettable, as is the determined and fully rounded photojournalist Nicolas Lander.
Jan Hallam writing in the Sunday Times says:
Sandy McCutcheon is one of a few mass market Australian novelists to tackle terrorism.
His recent thriller, Black Widow, looks at the aftermath of the 2004 Beslan siege, while his latest, The Cobbler’s Apprentice, follows a terror suspect, Samir Al-Hassani, who leaves Guantanamo Bay and becomes an agent of mass destruction.
It’s a gripping read because of its eerie prescience. In McCutcheon’s professional hands, it will also have you reading on the edge of your seats.
Samela Harris Adelaide Advertiser
This book is nothing less than a rip-roaring action thriller with politicians and thugs, scientists and spies — and an unnerving sense of the possible.
Weekend Gold Coast Bulletin
In a word: Compelling!
Copies can be purchased by following this link: Gleebooks Online.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Sunday, October 22, 2006
Elegant restaurant in Fez
There are several high class restaurants in Fez with correspondingly high prices. Others boast good food but the decor is so "Arabian Nights" that it feels like you are dining in a museum or movie set. Thankfully, The View from Fez can now suggest a new place to eat that combines great ambiance with reasonably priced delicious food. The restaurant is Dar Anebar and it is certainly worth a visit
Finding Dar Anebar is easy, which is a big plus in the Medina. Located in Derb Miter, off Zenjefour, the guest house and restaurant is only five minutes walk from the Palais Jamai hotel.The entrance to the restaurant is a striking dark tadelakt hallway that opens onto a spacious courtyard, complete with fountain, obligatory rose petals and fine zellij tile work. The salons off to each side of the courtyard offer intimate dining while the courtyard itself is delightfully restrained. No crowding of tables to maximise profits, but rather very few discrete tables creating an atmosphere both intimate and spacious. The decor is vivid and interesting without being garish. There is suitable background music, but at a sensibly low level so that conversation is possible.
The service was friendly, helpful and discrete - and the wine list interesting. The first course of Moroccan salads were of better than usual quality and an interesting variety. The diners I was with were seasoned Fez foodies and so held back on the salads, knowing that the main course was still to come. It should also be mentioned that the food arrived after a suitable pause and without the long wait that often occurs in restaurants around the world.
The only problem with the main course was that all of us decided on the same dish, so I can't report on the chicken with preserved lemon and olives, the couscous with vegetables, the Bastilla (with fresh pigeon) or the lamb with prunes. Our entire table heard that lamb with figs and almonds was on offer and were rewarded for their choice by a serving of the most tender lean lamb - and it did taste like lamb, rather than mutton. The figs and almonds were a perfect accompaniment.
The final course was a traditional sweet bastilla with nuts and milk custard - simply delicious. Coffee followed and when we eventually strolled out into the mild night air it was with the satisfaction of having had a very good meal in elegant and peaceful surroundings.
For a look at their fine accommodation: Dar Anebar
Contact details:
Phone for reservation 035635785
Email: info@daranebar
If you have any doubts about finding your way there, the very amiable owner, Ahmed Azami will usually arrange for someone to guide you.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Saturday, October 21, 2006
Remembering Abdelkrim Mouhafidi and Abderrahim Boualam
The kidnapping of two Moroccans in Iraq on October 20 a year ago brings back vivid and painful memories of the incident. All year the Moroccan government has been seeking the release of the two employees of the Moroccan embassy in Baghdad.
At the time of the kidnapping of Abdelkrim Mouhafidi and Abderrahim Boualam, who have lived in Iraq for twenty years, a Moroccan delegation of high level was immediately dispatched to Jordan.
Moroccan authorities have been working since that fateful day for the release of two nationals abducted at the time when going back to Iraq from Jordan, where they travelled to get their monthly salaries.
After it’s arrival in Amman, the Moroccan delegation had met many official and unofficial contacts with various political, religious, security and media organisations and people having links with the “Salafists Jihadists” movement in the Middle East.
Morocco still continues its investigation and various contacts in spite of the death announcement made by “Al Qaida” in Iraq and the absence of information concerning the two hostages.
Boualam was recruited by the embassy as a driver in 2002, while Mouhafidi has been in Iraq since 1982 and employed in the embassy since 1993 as a maintenance man.
On November 6, 2005, King Mohammed VI strongly condemned the kidnapping of the two Moroccans and described the abduction as "hideous crime." "I must strongly condemn the despicable kidnapping, by terrorist gangs in Iraq…”
The kidnapping was also condemned by Great Britain, France, the Iraq Sunni Council, the Organization of Islamic Conference (OIC), the Arab league, the Egyptian Islamist movement “Moslem Brotherhood,” the Moroccan Higher Council of Ulema (religious authority), in addition to Moroccan political parties, trade unions and civil society.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Tangier property market - new resort
Although there are those who voice doubt about the long term impact of Morocco's extraordinary property boom, the goldrush continues. The danger is that parts of the Moroccan coastline could end up as bad as those in Spain which after a huge boom are now falling out of favour. Maybe Morocco will be the "new Spain" - if so it is to be hoped that the developments will not simply become enclaves of Brits having little or no contact with the local people.
The latest news is that the Brits are coming and in some numbers. Not buying traditional houses, in the medinas, but apartments in resorts and (sadly) gated communities. Plans for a new beachfront resort near Tangier on Morocco's Mediterranean coast have been unveiled by Saffron Villas Ltd, a UK company that specialises in property in Morocco.
La Baie Resort, which comprises more than 350 two and three bedroom, two-bathroom apartments, is the first residential development of its kind in the Tangier city area. According to Gerry Jones, joint managing director of Saffron Villas, it will appeal to investors and second home buyers.
La Baie Resort, which will have a secure gated community as well as a commercial centre with its own shops, bars and restaurants, will include a large swimming pool, tennis courts and a day nursery.
According to Gerry, investors will be attracted by the continuing growth in capital values in northern Morocco where off-plan prices for investment properties are rising by around 29 per cent annually.
She said: "At La Baie Resort we anticipate that prices will rise by between 30 per cent and 35 per cent a year, with a sharper rise when the project is completed in 2008."
A rental management company with an office within the resort is being set up to handle lettings for investors who, predicts Gerry, could achieve peak week rentals of as much as £700 for a three-bedroom apartment.
"There are other good financial reasons to invest in a property in Morocco," says Gerry, whose firm can advise on the arrangement of 70 per cent mortgages locally. "Buyers can benefit from exemption from rental income tax for five years, no capital gains tax if the property is sold after 10 years, and no inheritance tax."
For holiday home owners at La Baie Resort, access from the UK is easy. It takes less than three hours to fly from Britain to Tangier Airport - soon to be a new destination for budget airlines - which is only 15 km from the resort.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
The latest news is that the Brits are coming and in some numbers. Not buying traditional houses, in the medinas, but apartments in resorts and (sadly) gated communities. Plans for a new beachfront resort near Tangier on Morocco's Mediterranean coast have been unveiled by Saffron Villas Ltd, a UK company that specialises in property in Morocco.
La Baie Resort, which comprises more than 350 two and three bedroom, two-bathroom apartments, is the first residential development of its kind in the Tangier city area. According to Gerry Jones, joint managing director of Saffron Villas, it will appeal to investors and second home buyers.
La Baie Resort, which will have a secure gated community as well as a commercial centre with its own shops, bars and restaurants, will include a large swimming pool, tennis courts and a day nursery.
According to Gerry, investors will be attracted by the continuing growth in capital values in northern Morocco where off-plan prices for investment properties are rising by around 29 per cent annually.
She said: "At La Baie Resort we anticipate that prices will rise by between 30 per cent and 35 per cent a year, with a sharper rise when the project is completed in 2008."
A rental management company with an office within the resort is being set up to handle lettings for investors who, predicts Gerry, could achieve peak week rentals of as much as £700 for a three-bedroom apartment.
"There are other good financial reasons to invest in a property in Morocco," says Gerry, whose firm can advise on the arrangement of 70 per cent mortgages locally. "Buyers can benefit from exemption from rental income tax for five years, no capital gains tax if the property is sold after 10 years, and no inheritance tax."
For holiday home owners at La Baie Resort, access from the UK is easy. It takes less than three hours to fly from Britain to Tangier Airport - soon to be a new destination for budget airlines - which is only 15 km from the resort.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Moroccan property boom - another view
Mawassi Lahcen, writing for Magharebia in Casablanca has an interesting article on the Moroccan property boom - pointing out thatMoroccan property is becoming more attractive to foreigners.
In recent years, owning a second home in Morocco has become fashionable for Europeans. The trend has led to major price increases for Moroccan property.
Mohamed Adil Bouhaja, president of the Association of Estate Agents in Marrakech, told Magharebia that European demand includes all areas of the market at all price ranges.
Nuredin Al-Sharqani, director of Al-Oufa Property, says foreign demand for Moroccan property has helped make locals aware of their country's land value. He told Magharebia current prices are not actually exaggerated and that Moroccans had undervalued their land.
"Our real estate market has become incorporated into the international market and the comparison that investors are making is not only between cities and regions side by side in Morocco, but also with the markets of competing countries," said Al-Sharqani, adding, "I believe that this is still the beginning and prices will continue to rise – at least until we reach the level of prices in the south of Spain, which underwent the same kind of development."
Read the full article on Magharebia.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
In recent years, owning a second home in Morocco has become fashionable for Europeans. The trend has led to major price increases for Moroccan property.
Mohamed Adil Bouhaja, president of the Association of Estate Agents in Marrakech, told Magharebia that European demand includes all areas of the market at all price ranges.
Nuredin Al-Sharqani, director of Al-Oufa Property, says foreign demand for Moroccan property has helped make locals aware of their country's land value. He told Magharebia current prices are not actually exaggerated and that Moroccans had undervalued their land.
"Our real estate market has become incorporated into the international market and the comparison that investors are making is not only between cities and regions side by side in Morocco, but also with the markets of competing countries," said Al-Sharqani, adding, "I believe that this is still the beginning and prices will continue to rise – at least until we reach the level of prices in the south of Spain, which underwent the same kind of development."
Read the full article on Magharebia.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Mass tourism in Morocco.
Over the last few months several of the writers on The View from Fez have expressed concern over the possible downside of mass tourism. Articles have appeared in newspapers across the world, including the New York Times. Today we have an excerpt and a link to, John Thorne, writing in the Dallas Morning News.
John has added his voice to those concerned about the impacty of mass tourism on Morocco:
TARFAYA, Morocco – In this fishing village on Morocco's southern coast, French writer Antoine de Saint-Exupery dreamed of the faraway worlds visited by his immortal character, the Little Prince. Eighty years on, the haphazard cluster of salmon-colored buildings and the crenelated shell of a Spanish fort still ooze charm.
But Shaibata Merebbi Rebbo – a native son, local history buff and contact for the United Nations Development Program – feels the wide world pressing down on his home. He worries that Tarfaya's drowsy sepia-tinted existence risks being obliterated by mass tourism as Morocco's skies open to European budget airlines.
"The rhythm of mass tourism is very quick," he said. "All the things that used to be beautiful will change."
Read the full article here: Dallas Morning News.
Our earlier story: Morocco - the impact of mass tourism
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
John has added his voice to those concerned about the impacty of mass tourism on Morocco:
TARFAYA, Morocco – In this fishing village on Morocco's southern coast, French writer Antoine de Saint-Exupery dreamed of the faraway worlds visited by his immortal character, the Little Prince. Eighty years on, the haphazard cluster of salmon-colored buildings and the crenelated shell of a Spanish fort still ooze charm.
But Shaibata Merebbi Rebbo – a native son, local history buff and contact for the United Nations Development Program – feels the wide world pressing down on his home. He worries that Tarfaya's drowsy sepia-tinted existence risks being obliterated by mass tourism as Morocco's skies open to European budget airlines.
"The rhythm of mass tourism is very quick," he said. "All the things that used to be beautiful will change."
Read the full article here: Dallas Morning News.
Our earlier story: Morocco - the impact of mass tourism
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Friday, October 20, 2006
Ryanair - postpones Moroccan service.
Ryanair are probably too big to care about public opinion. One wonders what it would take to make them blush. Bad check in procedures, closing flights and leaving travelers stranded and failure to reimburse tax on cancelled flights are just some of the complaints leveled against what is otherwise a very successful airline.
To add to the Ryanair's woes comes the news that many travelers who have booked on their new Moroccan flights are likely to be stranded without suitable alternatives. One of our readers had booked to return from Morocco to Europe flying Ryanair and is now unable travel as they can not get a return flight.
Ryanair said it has postponed the opening of new routes between Morocco and France and Germany after an agreement to create a common airspace between the European Union and Morocco was delayed.
The airline said that in order for it to open the new routes, all member states of the EU must sign a preliminary agreement aimed at creating a common European airspace which includes Morocco.
However, the signing of the agreement, originally slated for the beginning of October, has now been pushed back to November 17, it said. It failed to say why or who pushed it back.
New routes between Morocco and Frankfurt and Marseille will now open on December 1, rather than the end of October for Frankfurt flights, and November 8 for Marseille flights, as was originally planned.
The airline claims that passengers who have already booked onto the routes will be reimbursed or will receive alternative tickets, however customers talking to the View From Fez say they have not been offered an alternate flight - yet. Not good enough Ryanair.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
To add to the Ryanair's woes comes the news that many travelers who have booked on their new Moroccan flights are likely to be stranded without suitable alternatives. One of our readers had booked to return from Morocco to Europe flying Ryanair and is now unable travel as they can not get a return flight.
Ryanair said it has postponed the opening of new routes between Morocco and France and Germany after an agreement to create a common airspace between the European Union and Morocco was delayed.
The airline said that in order for it to open the new routes, all member states of the EU must sign a preliminary agreement aimed at creating a common European airspace which includes Morocco.
However, the signing of the agreement, originally slated for the beginning of October, has now been pushed back to November 17, it said. It failed to say why or who pushed it back.
New routes between Morocco and Frankfurt and Marseille will now open on December 1, rather than the end of October for Frankfurt flights, and November 8 for Marseille flights, as was originally planned.
The airline claims that passengers who have already booked onto the routes will be reimbursed or will receive alternative tickets, however customers talking to the View From Fez say they have not been offered an alternate flight - yet. Not good enough Ryanair.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Tunnel linking Spain and Morocco - Update.
Back in November 2005, The View from Fez reported on moved to link Africa and Europe by constructing and undersea tunnel for high speed trains, an idea first suggested by King Hassan II many decades ago.
The Spanish government signalled its interest, earmarking 4 million Euros for further advancing the idea after initial technical studies confirmed the feasibility of the project. The tunnel will not come cheaply with conservative costings putting the figure around five billion Euros and be paid for by the EU, the private sector and Spain and Morocco.
The studies, undertaken by the two public companies, the National Company of the Strait studies (SNED) and SECEGSA, concluded that a tunnel of 40 km should run between Tarifa in Spain and Malabata Region, near Tangier. About 28 km of the tunnel will be constructed under water, and the rest on each side of the Strait's ground.
The Spanish government was looking at starting the project in 2008 with completion by 2020, however, according to a report in the British Guardian newspaper, work could begin in 2007 but the date for services to start running has been moved back to 2025.
Moroccan Rail operator ONCF’s managing director, Mohamed Rabie Khlie, has been very upbeat about the project saying that plans mooted years ago for a tunnel from Europe to Africa across the strait of Gibraltar were still on course, meaning trains may one day travel direct from Madrid to Marrakesh.
“A Moroccan-Spanish committee is working very hard on this issue and it’s going very well,” he said. “We feel quite a clear willingness on the Spanish side to push things forward.”
Detailed geological studies have been undertaken with the first results to be published early next year. One problem that has already emerged is the presence of large areas of clay near the Moroccan coast and the need for new drilling techniques to cope with the undersea currents at the confluence of the Mediteranean and the Atlantic
According to the Guardian, Spain and Morocco have commissioned preliminary engineering studies and called on the renowned Swiss tunnel engineer Giovanni Lombardi to draw up a project outlining how work could proceed.
Exploratory tunnelling could start after his report, which will be based on recent detailed studies of the geological patterns under the strait, is handed in next year. "We are just beginning the work, but I would say this is more difficult than the Channel tunnel," Mr Lombardi told the Guardian. "The main difference is the depth of the sea but the geological conditions are also different."
The first plan looked at constructing the tunnel at the narrowest point between Spain and Morocco but was abandoned as the depth of 900 metres was too great meaning that to create a gradient for trains the tunnel would have to emerge miles inland at both ends. A new route is being investigated at a point where the seabed is only 300 metres and which would run from Malabata Point, near Tangier, to the area around Punta Paloma in Spain.
Other problems to be solved are the many different rock strata on the seabed and the need to protect the tunnel from earthquake. The two most destructive earthquakes have hit Lisbon in 1755 and Agadir in 1960.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Wednesday, October 18, 2006
Low cost airline to start Casablanca-Paris Orly flights
Yet another low-cost airline "Jet4You" is cashing in on the growing interest in Morocco. The airline will start seven new weekly flights linking the French airport Orly to Casablanca as of October 29. .
According to chairman Jawad Ziyat "Jet4you is the first low-cost operator to fly the Casablanca-Paris-Orly air line along with Corsair."
Since its inauguration flight on February 26, the company serviced 679 flights linking the cities of Marrakech, Fès and Agadir to Paris-Orly, and Marrakech to Nantes and Bordeaux, the company chairman highlighted, adding that up to September 30, the company flew some 92,255 passengers, reaching a 79% seat fill capacity and a 72% punctuality rate.
The airline projects to transport 160,000 passengers in the first year of its operation before reaching 900,000 in 2008 and 1.7 million in 2010.
The company’s euro 5.5Mn capital is owned at 40% by tourism word leader and 5th European carrier TIU group, and at 60% by Moroccan shareholders.
The company was created in the wake of the "Open Sky" agreement signed recently by Morocco and the European Union to liberalize the sector in Morocco.
A new route linking Paris to Ouarzazate will be established by the end of October.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Fez Medina - a visiting blogger's view.
Few of the visitors who blog about Fez seem to take the time to give a detailed account of their experience. Happily, a blogger ( Travellerblogue ) has done just that. Although her(his?) observations are from only a couple of days in the Medina, she certainly seems to have spent his time well and seen more than most. While we might argue with her about street food ( we find it delicious) - in general Travellerblogue has a good eye for the Medina. Take time to read the full post and the others on the blog - but first - here is an excerpt:
Day Without Guide. Our first day we decided we would tackle the medina by ourselves, with the trusty Rough Guide in hand. We accomplished this fairly well. We set out from the Riad Louna and headed towards the major landmark, the Kairaouine Mosque. This is fairly easily accomplished as Rue Talaa is pretty much a straight shot. Along the way, we admired the Bou Inania Medersa and generally observed the bustling alleys. We then took a little detour through Place Seffarine and eventually gave in to a fellow offering to take us to see the tanneries. So we climbed our way up to one of the shops with views over the tanneries, took some photos, declined to purchase leather goods, and made our way back down.
Then we did some aimless (not quite lost) wanderings for a few hours and snaked our way through the souks (collections of alleys selling or making certain kinds of goods: Dyers' Souk, Brass Souk, Leather Souk, etc.) and finally made our way back to the riad. Now, all of this was quite doable and Fes el Bali is contained by city walls, so you can only get so lost.
Full post is here: Adventures in Morocco: Fes.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Day Without Guide. Our first day we decided we would tackle the medina by ourselves, with the trusty Rough Guide in hand. We accomplished this fairly well. We set out from the Riad Louna and headed towards the major landmark, the Kairaouine Mosque. This is fairly easily accomplished as Rue Talaa is pretty much a straight shot. Along the way, we admired the Bou Inania Medersa and generally observed the bustling alleys. We then took a little detour through Place Seffarine and eventually gave in to a fellow offering to take us to see the tanneries. So we climbed our way up to one of the shops with views over the tanneries, took some photos, declined to purchase leather goods, and made our way back down.
Then we did some aimless (not quite lost) wanderings for a few hours and snaked our way through the souks (collections of alleys selling or making certain kinds of goods: Dyers' Souk, Brass Souk, Leather Souk, etc.) and finally made our way back to the riad. Now, all of this was quite doable and Fes el Bali is contained by city walls, so you can only get so lost.
Full post is here: Adventures in Morocco: Fes.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Tuesday, October 17, 2006
House in Fez medina fails to sell.
Back in September, The View from Fez reported the sale of what sounded at the time like a highly inflated price for a house in the Fez Medina. Dar Tisaa was reported to have sold to a Russian buyer for 300,000 Euros. We now understand that this price may not have been accurate.
Dar Tisaa is an attractive dar that has been renovated tastefully with a fish pond in the courtyard and a great roof terrace view of the medina. The renovations have created three delightful suites, each with private bath.
As we pointed out at the time, the supposedly amazing price was in no way reflective of the normal Medina prices. It should be remembered that a house in Fez can be bought from 10,000 at the low end with most houses ranging from 20 to 200 thousand. In a recent survey of websites we came up with an average of around 56,000 Euros.
We can now report that the original sale that we reported has fallen through and prospective buyer is rumoured to have purchased another house.
Meanwhile, Dar Tissa is said to be under negotiation with another purchaser.
At the moment it is a case of "buyer beware" as house prices can vary from agent to agent. We recently came across a case where a British buyer was quoted between 95 and 100 thousand Euros which when they checked another property agent's website was priced at between 70 and 80 thousand Euros.
Hopefully the high price bubble will burst as buyers become wiser about the tricks of the trade in the medina.
Our original story is here: Record house prices in Fez Medina
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Travel writing about Morocco - part nine.
Continuing our review of travel writing about Morocco we came across an article in the Sydney Morning Herald by Sarah Maguire. Sarah had been on a package tour as a guest of the company, so she obviously enjoyed herself despite paying an outrageous price for a small carpet and missing out on the wonderful street food in Fez.
Sadly the writing does not delve beneath the surface and she hasn't checked her facts - the Fez Medina has grown to 12,000 alleys instead of the usual 9,500 and is a century younger than usual - not all that important really and maybe even what she was told by a guide intent on frightening his clients.
Here is an excerpt:
ON A COACH tour, you figure that when your guides issue repeated warnings about the risks that lie ahead, they are aiming them at the most mentally challenged in the group. Because if they warned us once, they warned us a thousand times as we entered the ancient medina in Fez: do not take your eyes off the rest of the group. Otherwise, a 9th-century maze of 12,000 lanes, alleyways and dead-end streets would swallow us up, and no one - not even our omnipresent, all-knowing tour guides - would know where to find us.
And it was not the only misfortune awaiting the tourist: ignore the shout "balak" ("get out of the way") at our peril, we were told, for if we heard it a second time, it would be too late: the mule and his burden, charging through the medina with his driver in a scene more than a thousand years old, would be upon us.
Neither the threat of getting permanently lost nor being fatally trampled deterred any of our group, no matter how old or slow. We were on a 10-day Insight Vacations tour of Morocco, 35 of us from around the Western world, and none of us was going to miss the legendary Fez medina. Besides, we had a guardian angel, a medina local named Mohammed who skirted the group like a sheep dog, urging "please, watch your step" at just about every one we took.
And that is the advantage of an escorted coach tour in a place where the culture is so different it can be intimidating, and where the street food can make you sick and the harassment overwhelm you. You are looked after. Almost like a baby
Read the full story here: SMH Travel Section
Earlier Travel Writing stories:
Travel writing eight
Travel writing Seven
Travel Writing Six
Travel Writing Five
Travel Writing Four
Travel Writing Three
Travel Writing Two
Travel Writing One
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Morocco at the crossroads?
Anna Mahjar-Barducci, a Tunis-based Moroccan-Italian journalist, writing in THE DAILY STAR (Lebanon), has an interesting look at Morocco's political choices as it heads toward the elections in 2007. Anna was a correspondent in the Occupied Territories during the second intifada. Her commentaries are regularly published in the Italian daily Il Foglio.
In her article Anna uses the debate over the controversial film Marock to examine the role of Islam in modern Morocco. Here is an excerpt:
As Morocco prepares for the next parliamentary elections in 2007, the electoral-campaign battle has already begun, and intellectuals and civil society are wondering which Morocco the population will choose. The elections will represent a battle between two main political forces: the liberal-socialist bloc and the Islamist Party of Justice and Development (PJD).
In the run-up to the polls, newspapers are full of debate about constitutional reforms and the overwhelming role of the monarchy. The liberal class that is trying to push Morocco toward modernization encounters two obstacles: the monarchy, which must be given credit for accepting to reform the Family Code and allowing greater freedom of speech in recent years; and, more importantly, the Islamists, who are preventing any changes in traditional Moroccan society.
During my last visit to Morocco, I was very eager to watch the latest hit: the movie "Marock" - a word play on Maroc (French for Morocco ) and rock music - by young film director Leila Marrakshi. The movie brings to light the division within Moroccan society - which is in a way reflected in the wider Arab and Muslim worlds - between modernism and obscurantism, between liberals and Islamists, and between pluralism of religion and the prevention of it.
See the full story here: Morocco faces a choice between modernism and obscurantism
The debate over MAROCK
Link: The film site on the web
Tags: Morocco, Film Cinema, Film
In her article Anna uses the debate over the controversial film Marock to examine the role of Islam in modern Morocco. Here is an excerpt:As Morocco prepares for the next parliamentary elections in 2007, the electoral-campaign battle has already begun, and intellectuals and civil society are wondering which Morocco the population will choose. The elections will represent a battle between two main political forces: the liberal-socialist bloc and the Islamist Party of Justice and Development (PJD).
In the run-up to the polls, newspapers are full of debate about constitutional reforms and the overwhelming role of the monarchy. The liberal class that is trying to push Morocco toward modernization encounters two obstacles: the monarchy, which must be given credit for accepting to reform the Family Code and allowing greater freedom of speech in recent years; and, more importantly, the Islamists, who are preventing any changes in traditional Moroccan society.
During my last visit to Morocco, I was very eager to watch the latest hit: the movie "Marock" - a word play on Maroc (French for Morocco ) and rock music - by young film director Leila Marrakshi. The movie brings to light the division within Moroccan society - which is in a way reflected in the wider Arab and Muslim worlds - between modernism and obscurantism, between liberals and Islamists, and between pluralism of religion and the prevention of it.
See the full story here: Morocco faces a choice between modernism and obscurantism
The debate over MAROCK
Link: The film site on the web
Tags: Morocco, Film Cinema, Film
Monday, October 16, 2006
Fez Medina Blogs
A particularly astute and regular reader of The View from Fez emailed with the observation that many of the previously active blogs about Fez seem to have slowed down or faded away.
So we investigated and can say that some indeed seem to have faded somewhat, but others are simply taking a break during Ramadan.
Another great source of Moroccan news in general and from time to time Fez used to be the online journal Morocco Times ( not to be confused with the wonderful blog by Liosliath - Morocco Time). We have been unable to get any information as to why the Morocco Times it has ceased producing new stories. The last update on their site was Monday October 3. We hope it is only a temporary glitch and that they are up and running again soon.
The Fez Restoration Blog is taking a break while the guys are on an extended holiday in England. We expect them back soon.
So if you can't find all the news on Fez - then take a quick trip to Rabat and enjoy the musings of the Cat : Cat in Rabat.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
So we investigated and can say that some indeed seem to have faded somewhat, but others are simply taking a break during Ramadan.
Another great source of Moroccan news in general and from time to time Fez used to be the online journal Morocco Times ( not to be confused with the wonderful blog by Liosliath - Morocco Time). We have been unable to get any information as to why the Morocco Times it has ceased producing new stories. The last update on their site was Monday October 3. We hope it is only a temporary glitch and that they are up and running again soon.
The Fez Restoration Blog is taking a break while the guys are on an extended holiday in England. We expect them back soon.
So if you can't find all the news on Fez - then take a quick trip to Rabat and enjoy the musings of the Cat : Cat in Rabat.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Ramadan observations from Fez
As Ramadan draws to a close, spare a thought for the one group of Moroccans for whom Ramadan is especially difficult- cooks! Imagine you are working in the kitchen of a hotel, or guest house where foreigners are staying and every day from 7 in the morning you have to prepare food and serve it to tourists.
Apart from the entire business of watching others eat while you are fasting, there is the added problem of not being able to do the one thing every chef relies upon - tasting the food. Is there enough salt, pepper, cumin? Should there be a dash more red wine in the Coq au Vin?
And wine and beer of course are another issue. While all good Moslems abstain (well most of them) - everyone, almost without exception, refrains during Ramadan - yet here we have table loads of French, English and Dutch tourists, eating and drinking but also - smoking!
It has been interesting in Fez to watch the tourists who are respectful, going to the very back of restaurants so that their eating, drinking and smoking can not be seen from the street. There have been exceptions. One feral couple, dressed in flesh and breast revealing clothing, squatting on the curb, munching on a sandwich and coke, cigarettes in hand. Not respectful.
There are only a few days left of Ramadan, so please, if you are in an Islamic country - try a little respect.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Morocco's property boom continues.
The year 2005 saw a new trend in Morocco. Over half of the huge tourist influx were British and such was their experience that many of them decided to purchase either modern apartments or villas or traditional houses (dars or riads) in Marrakech and to a lesser extent the medina of Fez. This has lead to an estimated fifty per cent increase in prices across the board.
In the case of Fez this has a downside in that many medina houses are now unaffordable for local people. However it is not expected that the influx will be such as to create the kinds of problems seen in Marrakech which now has a large population of foreigners who enjoy little interaction with the local inhabitants.
At the top end of the Moroccan property market there are also some major developments. Yesterday saw the start of the first phase of the "Gateway to Morocco" project, being undertaken by the Dubai based Gulf Finance House (GFH. ). The project is estimated to be worth $1.4 billion (USD).
The first phase of the project comprises Royal Ranches Marrakech and the Royal Resort in Tangiers.
According to a report in the the Gulf News, GFH and the walis of Tangiers and Marrakech signed an agreement in July to develop the first phase of the Gateway to Morocco project in the presence of King Mohammad VI. This significant initiative marked the entry of GFH into Morocco as a key partner working towards the socio-economic development of the kingdom.
Abdul Rahman Al Jasmi, deputy CEO of GFH and deputy chairman of Royal Resort Cap Malabata and Royal Ranches said: "The Moroccan economy is experiencing a noteworthy growth as a result of the enthusiasm and continued efforts demonstrated by the Moroccan leadership. Through this support, Morocco has been able to play a bigger part regionally as well as globally.
"Furthermore, Morocco has been the first amongst the Arab countries to take a proactive role towards economic freedom and privatisation. It has effectively made its presence on the global economic scenario through several joint agreements and partnerships including the World Trade Organisation (WTO) and the free trade agreement with the United States."
Tangiers has also witnessed a real estate boom due to healthy influx of foreigners and tourists. The city is leading the development front for the northern area cities with the execution of big infrastructure projects such as the massive Mediterranean port, the free trade industrial and commercial zones and the roads network. Also, the city is known for its natural beauty where its highland provides a meeting point for the Mediterranean and the Atlantic Ocean.
More than several GCC and international companies have invested a total of $20 billion in various real estate and tourism projects in Morocco.
This will strengthen the capacity of Moroccan hotels to absorb 10 million tourists expected by 2010.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
In the case of Fez this has a downside in that many medina houses are now unaffordable for local people. However it is not expected that the influx will be such as to create the kinds of problems seen in Marrakech which now has a large population of foreigners who enjoy little interaction with the local inhabitants.
At the top end of the Moroccan property market there are also some major developments. Yesterday saw the start of the first phase of the "Gateway to Morocco" project, being undertaken by the Dubai based Gulf Finance House (GFH. ). The project is estimated to be worth $1.4 billion (USD).
The first phase of the project comprises Royal Ranches Marrakech and the Royal Resort in Tangiers.
According to a report in the the Gulf News, GFH and the walis of Tangiers and Marrakech signed an agreement in July to develop the first phase of the Gateway to Morocco project in the presence of King Mohammad VI. This significant initiative marked the entry of GFH into Morocco as a key partner working towards the socio-economic development of the kingdom.
Abdul Rahman Al Jasmi, deputy CEO of GFH and deputy chairman of Royal Resort Cap Malabata and Royal Ranches said: "The Moroccan economy is experiencing a noteworthy growth as a result of the enthusiasm and continued efforts demonstrated by the Moroccan leadership. Through this support, Morocco has been able to play a bigger part regionally as well as globally.
"Furthermore, Morocco has been the first amongst the Arab countries to take a proactive role towards economic freedom and privatisation. It has effectively made its presence on the global economic scenario through several joint agreements and partnerships including the World Trade Organisation (WTO) and the free trade agreement with the United States."
Tangiers has also witnessed a real estate boom due to healthy influx of foreigners and tourists. The city is leading the development front for the northern area cities with the execution of big infrastructure projects such as the massive Mediterranean port, the free trade industrial and commercial zones and the roads network. Also, the city is known for its natural beauty where its highland provides a meeting point for the Mediterranean and the Atlantic Ocean.
More than several GCC and international companies have invested a total of $20 billion in various real estate and tourism projects in Morocco.
This will strengthen the capacity of Moroccan hotels to absorb 10 million tourists expected by 2010.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Saturday, October 14, 2006
Jazz in Riads - Third Fez Jazz Festival.
Jazz in Riads has been chosen as the name for the third Fez Jazz Festival will be held between November 16th and 18th. There has been some concern about lack of publicity and the availability of translations of program materials, but it does seem the event will still go ahead.
The event is organised by the regional Council of Tourism in collaboration with the Association of Riads de Fès. The event will feature Moroccan, American and French artists, including Carle Bobbish from Kansas, Ron Guterrez, saxophonist Dave Brandom, Hollie, Boulou, Elios Ferré, and saxophonist and flute player Abdu Salim.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Morocco to launch Amazigh language TV channel.
Marisa Larson, writing for National Geographic, says that "though Berbers are the original inhabitants of North Africa, no one really knows where they came from. Genetic evidence seems to indicate that the Berbers are descended from several waves of immigration into the area, some dating as far back as 50,000 years. These immigrants came from diverse areas such as the Caucusus and the African coast of the Red Sea. Since Berbers are a mixture of different ethnic groups, the term "Berber" refers more to the language spoken and not necessarily to a specific race.
Berbers are first mentioned in writing by the ancient Egyptians who fought against the Lebu (Libyans) on their western borders. In 945 B.C. the Lebu conquered Egypt and founded the 26th dynasty. Berbers also led the Islamic conquest of Spain in A.D. 711. Famous Berbers include the Roman emperor Septimus Severus; Ibn Battuta, the Moroccan traveler and explorer; and French soccer star Zinedine Zidane."
Over the years Berber culture has struggled for recognition in Morocco but now comes a breakthrough that will hopefully raise the Berber profile considerably. Moroccan Communication Minister, Spokesman of the Government, Nabil Benabdallah announced yesterday that within one year he would be launching a television channel in the Amazigh language.
According to a report carried by the Maghreb Arabe Presse, At the end of a periodical meeting with the institute of the Amazigh culture (IRCAM), the minister told the press a commission of experts will be set up to consider questions related to the funding, programming and broadcast of the channel.
Besides the ministry and the IRCAM, the commission will include members from the two national TV channels, SNRT and 2M. The meeting also discussed the implementation of the commitments of the two channels to broadcast 30% of their programs in the Amazigh language. This will certainly come as good news to the large number of Moroccan Amazigh speakers in the regions of the Atlas and the Rif mountains.
See our earlier stories:
Being Berber - a question of cultural identity in Morocco
Morocco's Other Languages
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Friday, October 13, 2006
More villas and apartments for sale in Morocco
Not everyone wants to buy and restore a traditional riad in Morocco. For some, Morocco is simply a great place to have a villa or appartment where the family can holiday and the rest of the year it can be let out.
For people seeking this more modern lifestyle, a British website Property News is reporting that detailed plans are expected to be unveiled soon for what has been dubbed Morocco’s Golden Mile - the beachfront development Alcudia Smir near Kabila on Morocco's Mediterranean coast. Alcudia Smir is located 45 minutes by road from Tangier International Airport, midway between the coastal towns of Fnideq - a small typically Moroccan town with fishing activities and eating areas - and M’diq. This is already a bustling area for tourists, due to its location between the Rif mountains and a stunning beach.
The View from Fez understands that more than 2000 villas and apartments in one, two and three bedroom configurations will be on offer and well as leisure facilities and a hotel.
According to Property News, "The resort, a mixture of residential and touristic apartments, penthouses and villas, pre-installed for air-conditioning, will benefit from a commercial centre with shops, bars and restaurants as well as the facilities of the resort hotel."
Alcudia Smir has golf courses and marinas within easy reach. It will also have easy access to the new Mediterranean port close to Ceuta, the Spanish enclave.
The development of Alcudia Smir is being undertaken by FADESA, Spain’s second largest developer which is also behind Morocco’s first Plan D’Azur resort at Mediterrania-Sadia. FADESA, which has a reputation for building quality properties in Morocco at affordable prices, has just pre-launched the new resort.
Prices are expected to rise as the resort progresses, reports Gerry Jones of Newbury-based Saffron Villas Ltd, the UK’s leading Morocco property specialist which has been appointed to sell the properties. They are expected to appeal both to second-home buyers and investors.
Currently off-plan prices start at €75,000 for a 48 sq m one-bedroom apartment, rising to €112,000 for a three-bedroom home with a floor area of 87 sq m.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Killer lettuce slays Moroccan Camels?
Back in 2003 HM King Mohammed VI donated ten camels to Peru as a part of a Moroccan mission to boost trade and diplomatic links. Since then the animals have been enjoing life in the coastal city of Ica where the desert climate is close to that of the Sahara - except with the ocaisional sea breeze.Sadly, the View from Fez, must now report that two have died and a third is sick. The remaining seven are under observation.
And the cause of these camel fatalities? The humble lettuce. Yes, eating your greens, may not be as healthy, as our parents insisted - especially if you are a camel. The head of Ica's animal hygiene unit, William Raffo, says "The animal feeders gave the camels Peruvian lettuce because they thought it contained a lot of protein. Unfortunately it was also high in nitrates, which may have proved fatal."
Abdelilah Nejjari, from the Moroccan Embassy in Lima, is reported by Reuters news agency as saying - "It seems like an epidemic."
RPP radio reports however, said the illnesses were caused by "fresh alfalfa".
Caretakers are worried about the lives of the remaining four beasts that consumed the greenery. They admitted they are not experienced at raising or treating camels and have asked for specialists to be sent from Lima to examine the animals.
Let's hope that a quick change of diet and a little Ramadan fasting will have the surviving camels back in top form.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Thursday, October 12, 2006
Koranic Calligraphy on tour in Morocco
If you are in Tetouan or Fez in the next two weeks, look out for a wonderful display of Koranic calligraphy. The first stop of an exhibition titled "Quranic Arts: Authenticity and continued creativity-Iranian experiences" started its tour on Wednesday in the city of Tetouan in Morocco.
On the sidelines of the event, Iranian artists participating in the exhibition met with the head, professors and students of Moroccan National Institute of Fine Arts.
The exhibition includes works from different types of calligraphy, different techniques of writing Quran on wood, leather, metal and glass, as well as illumination.
Iran's National Museum of Quran and a Quran publisher named 'Quran Book City' as well as Iran's embassy in Rabat are sponsors of the exhibition.
The exhibition is to be held in Tetouan and Fez cities in Morocco during fasting month of Ramadan
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
On the sidelines of the event, Iranian artists participating in the exhibition met with the head, professors and students of Moroccan National Institute of Fine Arts.
The exhibition includes works from different types of calligraphy, different techniques of writing Quran on wood, leather, metal and glass, as well as illumination.
Iran's National Museum of Quran and a Quran publisher named 'Quran Book City' as well as Iran's embassy in Rabat are sponsors of the exhibition.
The exhibition is to be held in Tetouan and Fez cities in Morocco during fasting month of Ramadan
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Tuesday, October 10, 2006
Travel writing about Morocco - part eight.
In part eight of our series on travel writing about Morocco we return to Tangiers and good article by Lewis Jones in the UK Telegraph. In a piece that avoids many of the cliches about Morocco, Jones even gives us a taste of history. Here is an excerpt:
The Corinthians came, followed by the Romans, who called it Tingis, then the Arabs and the Portuguese. Samuel Pepys, who governed Tangier for Charles II (who had it as dowry from Catherine of Braganza), said it was no better than a brothel, which in his terms should have been a compliment, but wasn't.
During its years as the International Zone (1923-56), jointly controlled by France, Britain, Spain and Italy, it was a byword for wickedness and intrigue. The film Casablanca was originally set here - Tangier was twinned with Lisbon as the spy capital of wartime Europe - but Hollywood didn't like the name.
After the war, it achieved a louche glamour as Bohemia's bolthole of choice. Jane and Paul Bowles presided. William Burroughs set much of his fiction in the Zone. Allen Ginsberg, Truman Capote... Barbara Hutton, David Herbert all lived and worked here. It is a place of disconcerting proximities and contrasts, of shifting borders. So far as geography goes, it is in Africa, but its view is entirely of Europe - the stretch from Gibraltar to Cape Trafalgar. One side of town was built by the French, with elegant radial boulevards, embassies and banks, bars and nightclubs. The other side is Moorish, a walled maze of alleys and souks, sprawled over a steep hill above the harbour on the Mediterranean side, with Atlantic cliffs on the other side. More confusingly still, Tangier has two climates.
For social climbers, behind and above the city is the "Mountain", as they call a hill here (Lady Diana Cooper called Tangier "the City of Molehills"), where the air is fresh, and royalty and eminent interior designers have houses. But despite its glamorous aura, generations of western travellers experienced Tangier as the world's most hassle-ridden city, a place infested with touts, hustlers, pederasts, drug-peddlers, pimps, conmen and blackmailers. However, since the millennium, the new king of Morocco - Mohammed VI - has put a stop to all that. Some of the chaps loafing and smoking in the cafés (still essentially old boys' clubs) are secret policemen, specifically enjoined to get medieval on the now much-dwindled tribe of hustlers. These days the few pests who remain have a dejected and hunted air.
The medina, or Old Town, is small by Moroccan standards. Each urban district, by law, must have five things: a bakery, a fountain, a hammam (public bath), a mosque and a school. Old Fès has 117 districts, Tangier has 10. But it's still big enough to get lost in, indeed it is hard not to, and the experience is thoroughly recommended. To stroll through its tumbling, vertiginous labyrinth of alleys and lanes, glimpsing the fountains, gardens and courtyards of houses, palaces and mosques (forbidden to non-Muslims), immersed in the sights, sounds and smells of the markets, and stumbling into the brilliant light of a stately square, is to experience a dream cityscape, a form of atavistic time travel. London and Paris used to be like this, in scale and liveliness.
Read the ful story here: City of scandals and sandals
Earlier Travel Writing stories:
Travel writing Seven
Travel Writing Six
Travel Writing Five
Travel Writing Four
Travel Writing Three
Travel Writing Two
Travel Writing One
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
From Morocco to Moscow - we mourn Anna Politkovskaya
Far away from Morocco an event has taken place that should touch us all. A fellow journalist and writer, Anna Politkovskaya, was murdered on October 7th. The RIA-Novosti news agency, citing police officials, reported that Politkovskaya was shot twice, the second time in the head. Few people believe that this was anything other than yet another attempt to silence her. Anna's body was found in an elevator in her Moscow apartment building at 18/13 Lesnaya Street. A pistol (a 9mm Makarov) and bullets were found at the site of the crime. Her killer, a young man - dressed in black - was caught on a A CCTV camera as he approached the drab apartment building. No arrest has been made and the Russian government (as usual) say they will hold a "wide-ranging investigation".
While I was researching the novel Black Widow in 2004, I was concerned for Anna’s safety, when on a flight from Moscow to Beslan she became dangerously ill with symptoms of food poisoning after drinking tea offered to her. She had hoped to arrive in North Ossetia during the school hostage drama in Beslan to mediate the crisis. Her colleagues suggested the incident was an attempt on her life and I believe she had been deliberately poisoned to stop her from reporting on the crisis. As a mark or respect at the time, I included the incident in the novel.
There was never any question about her bravery. When Chechen militants took hundreds of hostages in a Moscow theatre in October 2002, Anna was one of the few people to have entered to negotiate with the rebels.
Joel Simon, executive director of the New York-based Committee to Protect Journalists echoes the thoughts of many writers around the world. ‘Anna was a hero to so many of us, and we'll miss her personally, but we'll also miss the information that she and only she was brave enough and dedicated enough to dig out and make public, and that's a loss that I'm not sure can ever be replaced.’
Politkovskaya's death is the highest-profile killing of a journalist in Russia since they July 2004 slaying of Paul Klebnikov, editor of the Russian edition of Forbes magazine.
Russia has become one of the deadliest places for journalists. Twenty-three journalists were killed in the country between 1996 and 2005, many more in Chechnya and according to CPJ. at least 12 have been murdered in contract-style killings since Putin came to power.
Politkovskaya had been receiving threats since 1999 after she wrote articles claiming that the Russian armed forces had committed human rights abuses in Chechnya. Despite these threats she continued to write and in 2003 published A Dirty War: A Russian Reporter in Chechnya. She is also a co-contributor to A Small Corner of Hell: Dispatches from Chechnya, published in 2003. Her most recent book, Putin's War: Life in A Failing Democracy, is to be published in paperback in December this year.
Jiri Grusa, President of the writers’ organisation International PEN paid tribute: ‘Anna Politkovskaya is a courageous writer known for her criticism not only of the Chechen war but also of the totalitarian backlash characterizing the latest developments in Russia. Her death raises serious concerns and confirms all the fears. We protest in the strongest terms the situation in Russia that has allowed this to occur.’
Anna, who was only 48, leaves behind her daughter Vera and son Ilya. The sympathy of the writing community around the world goes out to them.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Morocco lowers oil prices.
Good news for motorists or those coming to Morocco intent on hiring a car comes from Morocco's government who have lowered oil derivative prices between 1.5% and 6% because of the continuing decrease of crude oil prices on international markets.
Maghrebia news site is reporting that Morocco needs to import most of its energy escalated its trade deficit 15.6% in the first eight months of the year. The trade deficit for petroleum derivatives, accounting for 17.8% of total imports, jumped 20.1% due to rising prices of crude oil on international markets.
Earlier this month, the government unveiled a plan to lower prices of oil products if the downward trend on world markets remained in place. The move is expected to reflect positively on Morocco's inflation, which accelerated to 3.7% in August.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Maghrebia news site is reporting that Morocco needs to import most of its energy escalated its trade deficit 15.6% in the first eight months of the year. The trade deficit for petroleum derivatives, accounting for 17.8% of total imports, jumped 20.1% due to rising prices of crude oil on international markets.
Earlier this month, the government unveiled a plan to lower prices of oil products if the downward trend on world markets remained in place. The move is expected to reflect positively on Morocco's inflation, which accelerated to 3.7% in August.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
False Guides Fade in the Fez Medina.
In a number of posts over the last year The View from Fez has commented on the way that false guides have decreased in numbers. For years the Fez Medina was plagued with faux guides to the point where travel guides such as the Lonely Planet issued warnings about them and every traveler had a story to tell of being hassled.
So where have all the false guides gone? According to figures from the Tourism Squad some 312 were arrested in 2004 and in 2005 they managed to capture 1167 false guides. In the last three months 194 false guides have been arrested and brought to justice.
According to the squad 77 of the false guides were arrested in September while 54 were pulled out of the Medina in July and 63 in the month of August.
The Tourism squad, which works both in uniform and plainclothes, aims at ensuring security for tourists and to discourage all sources of nuisance such as false guides, beggars, itinerant merchants.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
So where have all the false guides gone? According to figures from the Tourism Squad some 312 were arrested in 2004 and in 2005 they managed to capture 1167 false guides. In the last three months 194 false guides have been arrested and brought to justice.
According to the squad 77 of the false guides were arrested in September while 54 were pulled out of the Medina in July and 63 in the month of August.
The Tourism squad, which works both in uniform and plainclothes, aims at ensuring security for tourists and to discourage all sources of nuisance such as false guides, beggars, itinerant merchants.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Monday, October 09, 2006
Maps of Fez Medina.
Over the last few days we have had a dozen or more requests for maps of the Fez Medina. Sadly, we are not running a commercial business selling maps - but we are happy to suggest that the best available map is the one in a wonderful publication called From Bab to Bab - there is also a French edition.
See the details here: BAB TO BAB
For those who want a quick look at a large map of the Fez Medina - the best site is supplied by Fez-riads.com. The map page is HERE
Here is our previous post about Fez Maps: Maps of the Fez Medina
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
See the details here: BAB TO BAB
For those who want a quick look at a large map of the Fez Medina - the best site is supplied by Fez-riads.com. The map page is HERE
Here is our previous post about Fez Maps: Maps of the Fez Medina
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Fez Medina - a sense of community.
One of the most pleasurable things about living in the Medina of Fez is the wonderful sense of community that displays itself - especially in times of trouble. Yet, most often it is the Moroccans coming to the aid of foreigners - stranded tourists, or ex-pats with a problem. Tonight however, the tables were turned.
The View from Fez was just shutting down the office for the night when an almighty banging started coming from the little street outside the back door. After five minutes we decided to go and investigate. The tiny one room factory across the alley was locked and the owner was frantically attempting to break a formidable looking padlock, by banging it with a rock. As the lock was attached to a heavy metal door, the noise was extremely loud and reverberating through the streets.
One benefit from having a house full of workman and doing a renovation is that there is always a stonemason's hammer and heavy stone chisel on hand. We located them and presented them to the owner of the factory. Within minutes the lock was broken and we opened the door. To our surprise all his workers were inside and we resisted asking the question: "why are they locked in?" - In any event they were relieved to see us and it was smiles all round.
The factory owner invited us to see the fine work being done and, of course, it just had to be ... they were making the famous Fassi hat - the Fez.
The workers breathed a sigh of relief, the owner went to look for a new lock and we went home confident in the fact that we now had new friends who, if we ever lock ourselves out, will be first to offer their help.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
The View from Fez was just shutting down the office for the night when an almighty banging started coming from the little street outside the back door. After five minutes we decided to go and investigate. The tiny one room factory across the alley was locked and the owner was frantically attempting to break a formidable looking padlock, by banging it with a rock. As the lock was attached to a heavy metal door, the noise was extremely loud and reverberating through the streets.
One benefit from having a house full of workman and doing a renovation is that there is always a stonemason's hammer and heavy stone chisel on hand. We located them and presented them to the owner of the factory. Within minutes the lock was broken and we opened the door. To our surprise all his workers were inside and we resisted asking the question: "why are they locked in?" - In any event they were relieved to see us and it was smiles all round.
The factory owner invited us to see the fine work being done and, of course, it just had to be ... they were making the famous Fassi hat - the Fez.
The workers breathed a sigh of relief, the owner went to look for a new lock and we went home confident in the fact that we now had new friends who, if we ever lock ourselves out, will be first to offer their help.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Maroc Telecom in partial float.
Reports reaching us here in Fez indicate that the Moroccan government may be looking to sell a small percentage of its shares in Maroc Telecom, sooner rather than later. The figure being suggested is about360 million Euros (about $450mn).The sale could be handled in the near future by the Casablanca Stock ExchangeThe move comes at a time when there is mood in the government to of a more general privatisation trend and would see the government sell 4 percent of its 34.1 percent ownership. A French group, Vivendi Universal, owns 51 percent of the mobile operator.
Maroc Telecom recorded an 11.6 percent in turnover to €990mn ($1.2bn) for the first half of this year
The information was confirmed by reliable sources in the Ministry. They added that “selling the rest of Morocco's share of Maroc Telecom, of which Vivendi Universal hold 51%, is a fact.” According to the same sources there is a “governmental programme of privatization,” which includes Maroc Telecom. And this “decision does not pose any legal problem.”
A senior official said that “the process of selling is underway, but the bargain will not be concluded before 2007.”
According to an economic analysts, the proclamation of the step so early is due to the government's intention to speed up privatization so as to provide financial resources that can finance the pressing economic reform, especially after the announcement of HM Mohammed VI's Human Development Initiative.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
High climbing visitor to Fez
Norwegian Inge Sollerud is an SAS airline pilot, a great traveler and mountaineer. His climbing has taken him across the globe to places as far apart as Australia, Bolivia, Norway, France and Spain. He has been visiting Fez with his partner Hilde Skjaerstad who hails from Bergen. Here he talks to The View from Fez.
View from Fez: When did you first come to Morocco?
Inge: In 2002. It was an accident really, I didn't have time to get a visa for Libya! I had also wanted to go Ethiopia - but the transport in the country is so poor I could not have seen much in the limited time I had, so about 12 hours before I flew I picked Morocco. I really like traveling in Moslem countries - the people are friendly, the architecture is fascinating and the food is great. Also, because Morocco is so well set up for tourists and transport, I knew I could see a lot in the short time I had available.
View from Fez: And your initial impressions?
Inge: I liked it a lot. There was a bit of a hassle with hustlers in the tourist areas, but then, you expect that. Casablanca was disappointing because it was simply like any other large city. But once I got to Marrakech and then the High Atlas I really enjoyed it. Marrakech felt like I was finally seeing Morocco - away from the tourist areas it was wonderful. The fact that locals mix so freely with tourists in the evenings in the main square was remarkable.
View from Fez. And the High Atlas?
Inge:I was surprised by the number of French climbers - but I am a person who likes mountains. The view from the top of the Moroccan mountains was sensational.
I climbed Jebel Toubkal - the highest mountain in North Africa at 4165 metres - there is a metal structure on top, so I climbed that as well. Actually the climb up the mountain was really only a hike and I did it in soft hiking boots. I came across the remains of an old DC3 American spy plane that crashed into the mountain in the 1950s - as a pilot I found it fascinating to be standing where the plane had flown straight into the mountain. In the Todra Gorge there is a lot of good rock climbing but I didn't have time to do it on that trip. You could certainly visit for a good couple of week's climbing.
As to the rest of the country, on that first trip I was impressed with the kasbah in Rabat - it took me by surprise and had a strangely Greek feeling to it. I also loved the trip into the desert and the dunes even though it was a very touristy thing to do.
View from Fez: When did you first come to Fez?
Inge: At the end of the first trip I came for only three days including a side trip to Volubulis. Fez struck me as chaotic and the hustlers were too ready to show you where to go. These days it is much better and hardly happens at all. The crack down by the tourist police has been very effective, thankfully.
There are so many fabulous things to see in Fez and you can so easily walk past something without knowing it's there. You do need someone with local knowledge, or a lot of time to explore. I think that visitors should get off the main streets and get lost! This is my second trip to the Medina and I love getting lost and having to find my way out. Those narrow alleys with so many people... and the hidden little squares that you discover are simply wonderful
View from Fez: Will you come back for a third trip?
Inge: Yes - As long as I have friends here. There are so many places in the world to see - but Fez is a must.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Sunday, October 08, 2006
Fez Medina - Hot gossip.
Recent visitors to Fez are to be commended for arriving during Ramadan. Aside from the tour parties of French and Dutch tourists there have been some notable arrivals - intrepid German couples, a party of five New Zealander's on a tour of Medinas and a male super-model from New York.
Henry Hargreaves lives in New York, but comes originally from New Zealand. Unusually for a New Zealander he managed to break in to the international modelling world and for several years was probably the most versitile model on the world catwalks.
Here's what the critics had to say about Henry. He always seem to have something up his sleeves- even his editorial looks- they are so varied that one often wonder if the model is one and the same. Not many male models of his generation could look like that. Although quite new to modeling, he has already appeared for Kenzo, Jill Sander, YSL, and some very prestigious editorials.
Now that the Lacoste ads are displayed worldwide, the handsome Hargreaves is indeed destined for most prominence on the ramp and beyond.
Beyond is a big place and instead of leaving the industry Henry has embarked on a new career as a fashion photographer.
So? What did he think of the old Medina of Fez? He loved it and is even considering coming to Morocco to do fashion shoots.
The amazing thing about Henry was his ability to quickly find his way around the Medina. Not one to stick to the well beaten paths, he plunged in at Bab Guissa and found his way to Cinema Amal in R'cif - amazing when you think of how many people tend to get lost. One thing is certain - Henry will be back.
Another interesting visitor is a very experienced climber from Norway, who also happens to be an international airline pilot. He and his partner are visiting Fez during Ramadan and we will tell you more about them in a future story.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Henry Hargreaves lives in New York, but comes originally from New Zealand. Unusually for a New Zealander he managed to break in to the international modelling world and for several years was probably the most versitile model on the world catwalks.
Here's what the critics had to say about Henry. He always seem to have something up his sleeves- even his editorial looks- they are so varied that one often wonder if the model is one and the same. Not many male models of his generation could look like that. Although quite new to modeling, he has already appeared for Kenzo, Jill Sander, YSL, and some very prestigious editorials.
Now that the Lacoste ads are displayed worldwide, the handsome Hargreaves is indeed destined for most prominence on the ramp and beyond.
Beyond is a big place and instead of leaving the industry Henry has embarked on a new career as a fashion photographer.
So? What did he think of the old Medina of Fez? He loved it and is even considering coming to Morocco to do fashion shoots.
The amazing thing about Henry was his ability to quickly find his way around the Medina. Not one to stick to the well beaten paths, he plunged in at Bab Guissa and found his way to Cinema Amal in R'cif - amazing when you think of how many people tend to get lost. One thing is certain - Henry will be back.
Another interesting visitor is a very experienced climber from Norway, who also happens to be an international airline pilot. He and his partner are visiting Fez during Ramadan and we will tell you more about them in a future story.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Saturday, October 07, 2006
SPIRIT OF FÈS U.S NATIONAL TOUR 2006
Here is a reminder to all American readers of The View from Fez, that a special treat is on its way - The Spirit of Fès has started its tour of the USA. We will attempt to bring you reports and hopefully some photographs of the tour - inshallah.
The Spirit of Fès is the international component of the celebrated Fès Festival of World Sacred Music and its companion Fès Forum. Its mission is to broaden the dialogue begun in Fès about ways in which art, culture and spirituality can offer a humane response to pressing global issues. The Tour will travel to 15 cities in 7 states from October 7 - 29 to connect to American communities and audiences.
Renowned artists from the Christian, Hindu, Jewish and Muslim traditions collaborate together to honor the human spirit with their unique cultural traditions. Performers include the Daqqa Roudania of Taroudant from Morocco, Aruna Sairam from India, Moroccan – American Jewish vocalist Gerard Edery, Lebanese - American percussionist Jamey Haddad, New Yorker Susan Hellauer and Palestinian - American multi- instrumentalist Zafer Tawil.
October 7 - Washington, D.C.
Smithsonian Institution, Freer Sackler Gallery – Meyer Auditorium
October 10 - Philadelphia, PA
Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts – Perelman Theater
Performance – 7:30 p.m.
Educational Components:
Lecture/Demonstration – Day of Performance
Artists Colloquium – 6:30 p.m.
October 11 - Storrs, CT
University of Connecticut - Jorgensen Auditorium
Performance – 7:30 p.m.
Educational Components:
Artists Colloquium – Day of Performance
Jorgensen Auditorium, 6:30 p.m.
October 12 - Schenectady, NY
Art Center and Theater of Schenectady - Proctor's Theatre
Performance – 8:00 p.m.
October 13 - Purchase, NY
Purchase College, SUNY – Concert Hall
Performance - 8:00 p.m.
October 14 - New York, NY
Carnegie Hall: Co-presenter World Music Institute
Performance – 8:30 p.m.
October 15 – New York, NY
Panel discussion – Columbia University, 1:30 -3 pm
Topic - In the Spirit of Fès: Living our Values
Film screening – “Wajd” 3:30 – 5 pm, Columbia University
Sufi Music: Daqqa of Taroudant, 8 p.m., Dance New Amsterdam
October 17 - Buffalo, NY
Suny College At Buffalo - Rockwell Hall Auditorium
Performance – 8:00 p.m.
October 19 - West Lafayette, IN
Purdue University- Loeb Playhouse
Performance – 7:30 p.m.
Educational Components:
Master class with University students: Vocal Exchange – 1 pm
October 20 - Urbana, IL
October 21 - Urbana, IL
University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign – Tryon Festival Theatre
Performances - 7:30 p.m.
October 24 - Irvine, CA
Irvine Barclay Theatre
Performance – 8:00 p.m.
October 25 - Riverside, CA
University of California at Riverside – University Theater
Performance – 8:00 p.m.
October 26 - Los Angeles, CA
UCLA Center for the Performing Arts – Royce Hall
Performance – 8:00 p.m.
Educational Components:
Lecture/demonstration for school children: Royce Hall, 10:30 a.m
Jamey Haddad, Susan Hellauer, Aruna Sairam, Zafer Tawil and Daqqa
Artists Colloquium, Jamey Haddad, Susan Hellauer, Aruna Sairam, Zafer Tawil
World Arts and Culture university students
October 27 - Santa Cruz, CA
University of California at Santa Cruz – Music Center Recital Hall
Performance – 8:00 p.m.
October 28 - Chico, CA
California State University/Chico – Laxson Auditorium
Performance – 7:30 p.m.
October 29 - San Francisco, CA
Jewish Community Center of San Francisco – Kanbar Hall
Performance – 7:00 p.m.
Educational Components:
Panel Discussion: In the Spirit of Fes: Living our Values
California Institute of Integral Studies, 1:30 p.m.
NEW YORK PROGRAMS
Concert, Saturday, October 14, 8:30 P.M.
Carnegie Hall’s Zankel Hall
7th Avenue between West 56th and 57th Street
Tickets available online at Carnegiehall.org or Carnegie Charge (212) 247-9610: $42, $30
Renowned artists from the Christian, Hindu, Jewish and Muslim faiths honor the human spirit with their unique cultural traditions and explore intercultural collaborations. Performers include the Daqqa Roudania of Taroudant, Moroccan-American Jewish vocalist Gerard Edery, Lebanese-American percussionist Jamey Haddad, New Yorker Susan Hellauer, India’s Aruna Sairam and Palestinian-American multi- instrumentalist Zafer Tawil.
In collaboration with World Music Institute (worldmusicinstitute.org) and Carnegie Hall (carnegiehall.org)
Panel Discussion, Sunday, October 15, 1:30–3:00 P.M.
Columbia University
2960 Broadway at West 116th Street
501 Schermerhorn Room
Free and open to the public.
In the Spirit of Fès: Living our Values
Writers, scholars and civil society activists gather together to discuss how to sustain values and engage in imaginative action in an increasingly complex and turbulent world.
In a conversation inspired by the annual Fès Festival of World Sacred Music’s companion Fès Forum: Giving a Soul to Globalization, Taoufiq Ben Amor, Columbia University scholar, writer and musician; Benjamin Barber, scholar, writer, Founder – CivWorld and Interdependence Day; The Very Reverend James Parks Morton, Dean Emeritus of the Cathedral of St. John the Divine, and Founder - The Interfaith Center of New York; Olara Otunnu, former U.N. Undersecretary General for Children in Armed Conflict; Zeyba Rahman, Director North America, Fès Festival and Forum; and Imran Riffat, Brookings Institute Project on U.S. Relations with the Islamic World, and Finance Director, Synergos Institute, share experiences and reflections.
Moderated by Mustapha Tlili, Founder/Director, Dialogues: Islamic World-U.S.-The West at New York University
In collaboration with Alwan for the Arts (alwanforthearts.org); CivWorld (civworld.org); MEALAC Department – Columbia University; the Interfaith Center of New York (interfaithcenter.org); and Dialogues: Islamic World-U.S.-The West at New York University (islamuswest.org)
Film Screening, Sunday, October 15, 3:30-5:00 P.M.
Columbia University
2960 Broadway at West 116th Street
501 Schermerhorn Room
Free and open to the public.
Wajd/ Les Milles et Une Voix : La Musique de L'Islam
Directed by Mahmoud Ben Mahmoud
The documentary offers an in-depth look at Sufism as it is practiced in a number of different countries. The filmmaker visits a Sufi school in Tunisia (where his father was a respected Sufi practitioner); records a celebration of a Sufi saint in India; films the ecstatic dancing of the whirling dervishes of Istanbul; explores the writings of Rumi; visits a street party of Sufi followers in Cairo and attends a gathering of two million Mourides. Sufi disciples. Screened in several festivals including "New Territories" series at the 2001 Venice Film Festival and the NY African Diaspora Film Festival.
In collaboration with Alwan for the Arts (alwanforthearts.org); CivWorld (civworld.org); MEALAC Department – Columbia University; the Interfaith Center of New York (interfaithcenter.org); and Dialogues: Islamic World-U.S.-The West at New York University (islamuswest.org)
Concert, Sunday, October 15, 8 – 10 P.M.
Dance New Amsterdam, 2nd Floor, 280 Broadway (entrance on Chambers Street opposite City Hall)
Tickets available through Dance New Amsterdam (212) 625.836: $25
Sufi Night: Daqqa Roudania of Taroudant, Morocco
The Daqqa Roudania of Taroudant are craftsmen and tanners, who are initiates of the Islamic mystical Sufi tradition associated with their guild. Traditionally, diverse branches of the Moroccan craft community are tied to specific Sufi branches or “turuqs” (the plural of “tariqa” or tradition). This tradition mirrors that of European guild workers that began in the Middle Ages. It is a tradition that is alive even today with the guilds becoming affiliated with a patron saint.
The Daqqa Roudania of Taroudant, named for the southern Moroccan town they come from, are considered knowledgeable people who have founded the Daqqa ceremony with music, chant, dance, and percussion. The ceremony is considered a religious ritual, a concert and an important moment in the social life of the city. It integrates elements of popular music from the Berbers of Ahwach and Agwal. The Daqqa takes place during Achoura, the tenth day of the first Muslim lunar month of Muharram. The rituals of this very rhythmic ceremony are dedicated to the celebrated Sufi saint of Taroudant, Sidi Ben Sidi.
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www.spiritoffes.org
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Friday, October 06, 2006
Chameleon update: Number Five
Over the last few months The View from Fez has been running a low level campaign to convince owners of riads that they should rescue chameleons from the souqs and install them in their courtyard trees. Here at Riad Zany, we started off with two, but lost one to a passing bird of prey. Our surviving chameleon is alive, well and having a great vacation from the trees by exploring the scaffolding that the builders have constructed in the courtyard.
On the other side of the Medina, our Special Affairs Editor, Lumen, has a sadder experience. Here is her report.
THEM THAR VARMINTS! … or, be careful what you say. Be very careful.
Riad Lumen was graced with four chameleons rescued from Bab Guissa, who seemed to enjoy the garden. Occasionally there’d be one surveying the plasterwork or checking out the roof terrace. The trees are tall and dense, so often the chameleons wouldn’t be seen at all for days on end. That makes it all the more special when one becomes visible.
There’s a young man who looks after the riad when no-one’s here. August is hot and we all go away. Come every two days or so, said Lumen, just to water the garden and feed the cat. You could even leave it for three days, if you make sure the cat has enough water and biscuits. Oh, and make sure you water up into the trees too, for the chameleons.
When we returned, the young man wanted to be paid for coming to the house for three hours every day. This seemed a bit excessive, in view of the instructions Lumen had given him. Ah, but it took ages, he said. I spent hours spraying water up into the trees, but only got one of them. Sorry I couldn’t kill any more.
It seems now that only George is left as no others have been seen for some time, and even George is doing his leaf imitation and can’t be spotted. Which leaves Lumen with plenty of time to reflect on the benefits of good, clear communication.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
On the other side of the Medina, our Special Affairs Editor, Lumen, has a sadder experience. Here is her report.
THEM THAR VARMINTS! … or, be careful what you say. Be very careful.
Riad Lumen was graced with four chameleons rescued from Bab Guissa, who seemed to enjoy the garden. Occasionally there’d be one surveying the plasterwork or checking out the roof terrace. The trees are tall and dense, so often the chameleons wouldn’t be seen at all for days on end. That makes it all the more special when one becomes visible.
There’s a young man who looks after the riad when no-one’s here. August is hot and we all go away. Come every two days or so, said Lumen, just to water the garden and feed the cat. You could even leave it for three days, if you make sure the cat has enough water and biscuits. Oh, and make sure you water up into the trees too, for the chameleons.
When we returned, the young man wanted to be paid for coming to the house for three hours every day. This seemed a bit excessive, in view of the instructions Lumen had given him. Ah, but it took ages, he said. I spent hours spraying water up into the trees, but only got one of them. Sorry I couldn’t kill any more.
It seems now that only George is left as no others have been seen for some time, and even George is doing his leaf imitation and can’t be spotted. Which leaves Lumen with plenty of time to reflect on the benefits of good, clear communication.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Thursday, October 05, 2006
Buying or renovating property in Morocco - the Fez connection
Here at The View from Fez we have been receiving a lot of requests from people wanting to know about buying or renovating houses in Morocco. Our area of specialty is the ancient Fez Medina. If you are interested to find out more please search our site for the numerous articles on purchasing property or renovation.
We also have contact lists and good advice for those new to the Medina.
Another service we offer is photography of properties. If you have a house in mind and would like a specialist photographer to do a detailed study of the pros and cons of the building, contact us at fes.riad@gmail.com
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
We also have contact lists and good advice for those new to the Medina.
Another service we offer is photography of properties. If you have a house in mind and would like a specialist photographer to do a detailed study of the pros and cons of the building, contact us at fes.riad@gmail.com
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
The Jews of Morocco - a lesson in coexistence.
This week the Jewish Moroccan community hailed Morocco as being a land of religious coexistence.
"Our country will always remain an example of coexistence between Christianity, Judaism and Islam, and a land of tolerance where the faithful can freely and respectfully worship," said David Tolédano, Secretary general of the Israelite community in Rabat.
Speaking on the occasion of Yom Kippur, Toledano praised the kingdom's efforts to achieve development in various fields. Yom Kippur also known as "the Day of Atonement" is a Jewish holiday marked by fasting and prayer for the atonement of sins.
Morocco is presently home to around 6000 Jews living in the four corners of the North African country.
A short history of Jews in Morocco
Legend has it that Moroccan Jews have been here since the days of King David. In the south of Morocco, three days journey from Sousse - there is a boulder on which is engraved -“Joab, son of Zeriah, drove the Philistines to this point.” Joab ben Zeriah was one of King David’s captains. And so it has been concluded that Moroccan Jews have been in this North African country since the day of King David.
Jews seldom led a serene existence in Morocco for they were subject to the whims of their Moslem rulers. In 809, the Caliphate issued a number of decrees against the Jews; they wore only black garments, they were forbidden to ride horses, and only sandals were allowed them - no shoes. In addition they had to pay exorbitant taxes and were forced to live separately from the Arab population in Mellahs [Jewish quarter].
The Jews of Morocco fell into three categories. The mountain cave desert dwellers, those who lived in the Mellahs, and the so-called Spanish Jews.
The mountain Jews were extremely pious living in the spirit of Bibilical Palestine. Some would roam about the country, like pilgrims - looking for a “shochet,” or a “mohel,” others traveled about to bless every Jew they came across. Some knew a little Hebrew although Berber was their language.
Many wore gold earrings as a sign to the world that when the Hebrews in the wilderness forced Aaron to set up a golden calf and gave him ornaments to melt down - the ancestors of the present mountain Jews refused to do homage to the idol.
Eighty percent of the Jews of the country lived in a Mellahs of the cities and the towns. Mellah is the Arabic word for salt and folklore has it that the Jews were granted the protection of the Sultans in exchange for preserving the heads of their enemies is salt. All of the larger cities of Morocco had Mellahs - relics of older times. These were crowded - narrow winding streets - where the trading could be heard in high pitched tones, where there was a constant movement of figures in black and white turbans and tiny round skullcaps. Business was conducted on the sidewalk, with the Jewish artisans sitting in archways from early morning till late at night, sewing, stitching, patching shoes, and hammering gold and silver. Carving designs on bridal bracelets.
Modern Times
Prior to WWII, the Jewish population of Morocco reached 225,000. Although, Jews were not deported during WWII, they did suffer humiliation under the Vichy government. Following the U.S. landing in 1943, a few pogroms did occur. In June 1948, bloody riots in Oujda and Djerada killed 44 Jews and wounded scores more. That same year, an unofficial economic boycott was instigated against Moroccan Jews.
In 1956, Morocco declared its independence, and Jewish immigration to Israel was suspended. In 1963, emigration resumed, allowing more than 100,000 Moroccan Jews to reach Israel.
In 1965, Moroccan writer Said Ghallab described the attitude of his fellow Muslims toward their Jewish neighbors:
The worst insult that a Moroccan could possibly offer was to treat someone as a Jew....My childhood friends have remained anti-Jewish. They hide their virulent anti-Semitism by contending that the State of Israel was the creature of Western imperialism....A whole Hitlerite myth is being cultivated among the populace. The massacres of the Jews by Hitler are exalted ecstatically. It is even credited that Hitler is not dead, but alive and well, and his arrival is awaited to deliver the Arabs from Israel.
Fortunately this attitude no longer prevails. Before his death in 1999, King Hassan tried to protect the Jewish population, and at present Morocco has one of the most tolerant environments for Jews in the Arab world. Moroccan Jewish emigres, even those with Israeli citizenship, freely visit friends and relatives in Morocco. Moroccan Jews have held leading positions in the business community and government. The major Jewish organization representing the community is the Conseil des Communautes Israelites in Casablanca. Its functions include external relations, general communal affairs, communal heritage, finance, maintenance of holy places, youth activities, and cultural and religious life.
The Jews no longer reside in the traditional Jewish mellahs, but intermarriage is almost unknown. The community has always been religious and tolerant....The younger generation prefers to continue its higher education abroad and tends not to return to Morocco. Thus the community is in a process of aging.
In early 2004, Marrakech had a small population of about 260 people, most over the age of 60. Casablanca has the largest community, about 3,000 people. There are synagogues, mikvaot, old-age homes, and kosher restaurants in Casablanca, Fez, Marrakesh, Mogador, Rabat, Tetuan and Tangier. By 1992, most Jewish schools had closed, but Casablanca has experienced a bit of a renewal and now 10 schools serve more than 800 students there.
The Jewish community has developed a fascinating tradition of rituals and pilgrimages to the tombs of holy sages. There are 13 such famous sites, centuries old, well kept by Muslims. Every year on special dates, crowds of Moroccan Jews from around the world, including Israel, throng to these graves. A unique Moroccan festival, the Mimunah, is celebrated in Morocco and in Israel.
Morocco is perhaps Israel's closest friend in the Arab world. King Hassan often tried to be a behind-the-scenes catalyst in the Arab-Israeli peace process. In July 1986, he hosted Israeli Prime Minister Shimon Peres in an effort to stimulate progress. Two months later, Hassan met with a delegation of Jews of Moroccan origin, including an Israeli Knesset member. In 1993, after signing the agreement with the PLO, Prime Minister Yitzhak Rabin paid a formal visit to Morocco.
In May 1999, King Hassan organized the first meeting of the World Union of Moroccan Jews, in Marrakech.
In April and May 2000, the Moroccan government sponsored a series of events and lectures promoting respect among religions.7 Andre Azoulay, royal counselor and a leading Jewish citizen, spoke about the need for interfaith respect and dialogue. In October 2000, two Moroccan youths tried to vandalize a Tangiers synagogue. King Mohamed VI publicly declared in a televised speech on November 6, 2000, that the government would not tolerate mistreatment of Morocco’s Jews. The youths were subsequently sentenced to one year in prison.
On May 16, 2003, a series of suicide bombers attacked four Jewish targets in Casablanca, and a fifth attack was made against the Spanish consulate. No Jews were hurt in the attack because it occurred on Shabbat when the buildings were empty of Jews. Twenty-nine Muslims were killed. Though the bombings affected the Jewish sense of security, they were viewed by most Moroccans as assaults on the country's social and political order, and a test of the young king's power, rather than an act of anti-Semitism. King Mohammed VI visited the site of one of the attacks the day it occurred and urged the Jewish community to rebuild. The government subsequently organized a large rally in the streets of Casablanca to demonstrate support for the Jewish community and the king reasserted his family's traditional protection for the country's Jews.
Editor's note: This article draws on material from several sources including, local accounts, Wikipedia and the Jewish Virtual Library
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
First woman governor in Morocco
In a further sign of the progress Morocco is making in gender reform, for the first time ever since Morocco's independence in 1956, a woman has been nominated governor of a district. According to Arab daily al-Sharq al-Awsat, Moroccan King Mohammad VI named Fawziya Amansar governor of the district of Ain al-Shaq in the area around Casablanca. The appointment was was the latest in a long string of promotions by the king, who is replacing many top local and central government officials.
Amansar is a formal state servant in charge of construction and urban planning in the provincial administration of Casablanca.
Ever since he was elected king, Mohammad VI has pushed for more rights for women.
In 2004, Morocco approved one of the most progressive laws on women's and family rights in the Arab world.
Under the reform to the 'mudawana' family code, polygamy became acceptable only in rare circumstances, and only with the permission of a judge and a man's first wife.
The new law also raised the age of marriage for girls from 15 to 18 and gave wives joint responsibility of the family with their husbands.
In related news:
The Moroccan education ministry has decided to scrap a Koranic verse from textbooks on Islamic education, along with a hadith - traditions relating to the words of the Prophet Mohammed important to determine the Muslim way of life - and the photo of a hijab-clad girl. Education minister Al-Habib Al-Maliki reportedly told the Moroccan parliament the move was aimed at preventing the rise of fundamentalism among youths.
The Koranic omitted verse reads: "And tell the believing women to lower their gaze and be modest and to display of their adornment only that which is apparent and to draw their veils over their bosoms..."
The scrapped hadith quoted the Prophet as cursing men and women who crossed-dressed.
The decision to remove the picture of the hijab-clad young woman reportedly followed strong pressure from women's rights groups.
It has also started promoting changes to school curricula - reportedly scrapping references to 'jihad' in Islamic textbooks, among other things - following the 9/11 attacks on the US
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Amansar is a formal state servant in charge of construction and urban planning in the provincial administration of Casablanca.
Ever since he was elected king, Mohammad VI has pushed for more rights for women.
In 2004, Morocco approved one of the most progressive laws on women's and family rights in the Arab world.
Under the reform to the 'mudawana' family code, polygamy became acceptable only in rare circumstances, and only with the permission of a judge and a man's first wife.
The new law also raised the age of marriage for girls from 15 to 18 and gave wives joint responsibility of the family with their husbands.
In related news:
The Moroccan education ministry has decided to scrap a Koranic verse from textbooks on Islamic education, along with a hadith - traditions relating to the words of the Prophet Mohammed important to determine the Muslim way of life - and the photo of a hijab-clad girl. Education minister Al-Habib Al-Maliki reportedly told the Moroccan parliament the move was aimed at preventing the rise of fundamentalism among youths.
The Koranic omitted verse reads: "And tell the believing women to lower their gaze and be modest and to display of their adornment only that which is apparent and to draw their veils over their bosoms..."
The scrapped hadith quoted the Prophet as cursing men and women who crossed-dressed.
The decision to remove the picture of the hijab-clad young woman reportedly followed strong pressure from women's rights groups.
It has also started promoting changes to school curricula - reportedly scrapping references to 'jihad' in Islamic textbooks, among other things - following the 9/11 attacks on the US
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Wednesday, October 04, 2006
Travel writing about Morocco - part seven.
The View from Fez sighed a sigh of relief today - we finally discovered a really fine travel article on Morocco. More than that, it was a travel article on Fez. Not only was it well researched, but it was beautifully written.So we take our collective hat off to the New York Times and Philip D. Schuyler for a great piece of travel writing. Philip Schuyler is Assistant Professor of Music at Columbia University.
His article is a long one and well worth taking the time to read, especially if you are planning to visit the Fez Medina. Here is an excerpt.
Few places are as well-suited for a walking tour as the Medina, the old quarter of Fez. In fact, there is really no other way to visit the old city, since most of the streets are too steep or narrow to permit even a scooter to maneuver in comfort. Houses seem to have sprung up wherever there was space, leaving only small gaps between the buildings for traffic to slip through. Often the upper stories have been cantilevered out over the street, turning the passage into a tunnel. It is said that in some neighborhoods the maze of alleyways was deliberately designed to confound an invading enemy; whatever the case, the result has been an urban landscape of unparalleled beauty and complexity.
When Moulay Idris II founded Fez in A.D. 809, he chose his spot wisely. Blessed with abundant water and protected by the surrounding hills, the site lay at the intersection of two old and still active trade routes. Over time, settlers from Andalusia in Spain and Qairwan in Tunisia, gave Fez a reputation for erudition and craftsmanship. The city reached its peak under the Marinids, a Berber dynasty that, though often at war with Christian rulers in Andalusia, made Fez its capital in 1248, and the capital of Morocco in 1269; the city remained for centuries the political, religious, commercial and intellectual center of Morocco.
Today Fez is a sprawling agglomeration of diverse neighborhoods, from Fez Jdid (New Fez, founded in 1276) to French-style suburbs, but the Medina, separate and largely intact, remains the soul of the city.
More than 150,000 people still live and work in the Medina. Parking lots on the periphery and television antennas on the rooftops demonstrate that Fez has entered the 20th century. Nevertheless, many traditional crafts - indeed, whole segments of the economy - continue to operate much as they have for the last 500 years or more. The layout of many neighborhoods corresponds closely to descriptions of the city under the Marinids. As a result, the city can seem to be by turns a living museum, a larger-than-life sculpture or a vast puzzle.
No one, it seems, wants travelers to solve this puzzle for themselves. Guidebooks and travel articles caution that tourists are certain to get lost in the winding streets. Licensed guides, with their government-issued badges, repeat this warning to potential clients at the doors of five-star hotels. Young men and boys wait by the gates of the Medina, volunteering their assistance in half a dozen languages. The most enterprising have taken to cruising the outskirts of the city on motorbikes, trying to snare cars full of tourists as they pull into town.
The trouble with guides (both in print and in the flesh) is that they tend to focus attention on isolated destinations. To be sure, there are many impressive sights in Morocco, but in most cases it is impossible to view them as you would the Eiffel Tower or the Taj Mahal. Consider the Qarawiyin mosque. Since its founding in A.D. 859, the Qarawiyin has been the spiritual center of Fez. For centuries it was also the seat of the most important university in the western Islamic world. Successive dynasties expanded the mosque until it became the largest in North Africa, with a capacity of more than 20,000 worshipers. Compared with the great mosques of Isfahan or Istanbul, the design is austere. The columns and arches are plain white; the floors are covered in reed mats, not lush carpets. Yet, the seemingly endless forest of arches creates a sense of infinite majesty and intimate privacy. And the very simplicity of the design sets off to good advantage the finely decorated niche, pulpit and outer courtyard, with its superb examples of tile, plasterwork, woodcarving and painting.
Unfortunately, the Qarawiyin is largely hidden from sight. You cannot go inside: in Morocco, non-Muslims may not enter active mosques. Nor can you step back to take a look at the whole building: the mosque is hemmed in by streets only 6 to 10 feet wide. At best, you can stand at the main door, jostled by passing donkeys, for an impressive but unsatisfying view of the courtyard. When they are open, the other doors scattered around the perimeter afford no more than tantalizing glimpses of a tiled staircase or a row of arches. It used to be possible to look down over the Qarawiyin from the roof of the Attarine medersa, a former dormitory attached to the mosque. For the past few years, however, the upper floors have been closed for renovation. (The medersa, if anything an even finer sampler of Marinid decorative art, is still well worth a visit.)
If the Qarawiyin turns out to be a bit of a letdown, direct your attention instead to the shops and streets that crowd so tenaciously around it. Along with the tomb of Moulay Idris II, the Qarawiyin forms a sacred precinct. Within this precinct are candle makers, incense sellers and dealers in silk and silver, the most elegant merchants of the Medina. The passage around the mosque takes you through neighborhoods full of booksellers, leather workers, brass workers, blacksmiths, tinsmiths, and so on. In circumnavigating the Qarawiyin - a 20-minute journey - you can finally grasp, if only by inference, the immensity of the mosque.
More important, you begin to understand the social and economic complexity of the city and to sense the qualities - piety, pragmatism, craftsmanship and intellect - that combine to form its character.
The full travel article can be found here: Finding your way in Fez
Earlier Travel Writing stories:
Travel Writing Six
Travel Writing Five
Travel Writing Four
Travel Writing Three
Travel Writing Two
Travel Writing One
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Tuesday, October 03, 2006
From donkey to 4-wheel drive - Tangier's new image
Tom Pfeiffer writing of for the online IOL.CO says that it's time to rewrite the guidebooks on Tangier. For years visitors braced for the worst when they walked off the ferry in Tangier. The town was seedy and known for decades as the shady hideout of drug barons, its crumbling old town supposedly swarming with pickpockets and rogue guides.
Now says Pfeiffer it is a town beginning to rediscover some of the style and sophistication it enjoyed for centuries as a crossroads between the West and the Arab world, the Atlantic and the Mediterranean.
HERE IS AN EXCERPT:
After independence in 1956, the Moroccan authorities moved to close down Tangier's brothels, drug dens and gay bars, to the relief of conservative natives fed up with playing host to Europeans seeking an alternative lifestyle.
Economic decline set in as the international banks with offshore operations relocated to Switzerland or Spain.
When foreign owners of small businesses, cinemas, cafes and restaurants were told to take Moroccan business partners, thousands left, the gap they left in the economy filled partly by smugglers and cannabis barons.
"Tangier became practically a town of outlaws who couldn't care less about culture," said R'Miki. "This was a nouveau riche that went straight from owning a donkey to a four-wheel-drive."
Despite a government eradication campaign, Morocco still provides four-fifth's of Europe's cannabis, and hashish remains the Tangier region's biggest industry, experts say.
Fears that some cannabis dealers may be subsidising militant Islamist groups have led to a wave of arrests, but Tangier remains a hub for laundering drug money, say locals, who point out a surprising number of new, empty apartment blocks.
"This construction boom has virtually no relationship with the town's commercial development," said Michel Peraldi, an expert on Morocco's informal economy at France's CNRS research council. "It's all money-laundering."
Tangier government officials say the property sector is driven by market needs and a growing number of big international firms are taking part.
Officials say creating jobs is the best hope for attacking a cannabis industry reliant on cheap, seasonal labour. They hope for a shift in Tangier's economy from next year when ships begin docking at a big new port complex, Tanger-Mediterrannee.
The terminal will slash costs and delivery times, linking up with a chain of free trade zones to attract companies wanting a cheap production base close to European markets.
"This is going to restore Tangier's role as an international crossroads from Asia to Europe and America," said Tajeddine El-Husseini, a Moroccan professor of international economic law.
The terminal will be joined by a new motorway and upgraded rail link south to business hub Casablanca, part of an attempt by King Mohammed's government to revitalise the economy.
"Our volume of activity is doubling every year," said Jelloul Samsseme, a regional investment official. "Everyone's trying to position themselves and grab the opportunities."
The new Tangier may disappoint tourists searching for the edgy, experimental 1950s world of beat generation writers Jack Kerouac, Allen Ginsberg and William Burroughs, who wrote his drug-fuelled novel The Naked Lunch in a Tangier hotel room.
That world is long gone, said Thor Kuniholm of the American Legation Museum in the city's old town. "What's really exciting is this city is changing. Factories are opening, schools are getting better, a whole new middle class is being created."
However, the growth has left central Tangier ringed with tatty suburbs where scant social services and high unemployment have fed into support for radical Islamist groups.
"This town is growing fast," said R'Miki. "We must be very careful not to allow the suburbs to degenerate into favelas with no rule of law."
READ THE FULL STORY HERE:Tangier shakes off its louche reputation
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Monday, October 02, 2006
Polanski to head Marrakech film fest jury
Polish actor, writer and director Roman Polanski will head the jury at this year's Marrakech International Film Festival.
According to a press release from the organisers, this year, the festival will continue its quest for new talent and will make of Marrakech a meeting point for international cinema makers.
The official list of participating films will be revealed in November.
After paying tribute to Morocco in 2004 and Spain in 2005, this year's festival will honour Italian cinema and will highlight the achievements of the Italian cinema since the 40s.
This, the 6th Marrakech International Film Festival, will be held on Dec. 1-6 in the ochre city.
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Morocco to host international Rolls Royce show
It will be one of the strangest sites seen in Morocco for a long time. Imagine a convoy of Bentley and Rolls Royce cars - each probably valued at more than an average Moroccan can earn in a lifetime - travelling from Tangier and on through the cities of Boufakrane, Blessed-Mellal, Bin El Ouidane, Marrakech, Tizinit, Taroudant, Agadir, Essaouira, Oualidia, El Jadida, Casablanca and Rabat.
According to organisers, owners of the cars from Britain, Belgium, Canada, France, Germany, Monaco, the Netherlands, Norway, South Africa, Sweden, and Switzerland will attend "Morocco Extravaganza". The first international Rolls Royce and Bentley auto show will be held in Morocco from October 25th to November 6th.
Organisers said the 600,000-euro show "has no commercial goal for the Rolls Royce brand, but is mainly aimed at promoting the image of Morocco".
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
According to organisers, owners of the cars from Britain, Belgium, Canada, France, Germany, Monaco, the Netherlands, Norway, South Africa, Sweden, and Switzerland will attend "Morocco Extravaganza". The first international Rolls Royce and Bentley auto show will be held in Morocco from October 25th to November 6th.
Organisers said the 600,000-euro show "has no commercial goal for the Rolls Royce brand, but is mainly aimed at promoting the image of Morocco".
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Sunday, October 01, 2006
Morocco's dream of EU membership.
Morocco's metamorphosis in recent years owes much to its dream of one day joining the European Union. Former King Hassan II made this explicit 20 years ago, though at the time the ambition seemed almost laughable. This had less to do with the fact that Morocco lies in Africa, not Europe, and more to do with its record on human rights and lack of democracy. Today, no formal request for Moroccan membership sits in Brussels, but Prime Minister Driss Jettou is quoted in an interesting article in Newsweek as saying: "We want to be the southern rib of Europe."
For the European Union's part, says Benita Ferrero-Waldner, EU commissioner for external relations, "We already have a very, very close relationship with Morocco, and we're studying giving them even more advanced status."
Signs of Morocco's European-style openness are everywhere. The current government is the most democratic in the country's history. Next year's elections are expected to produce a popularly elected prime minister for the first time—previously, leaders of government were appointed by the king—and Morocco's notoriously poor human-rights record is getting a makeover. Cases of torture and arbitrary arrest are down dramatically; there are fewer political prisoners. "We see Morocco as a mixed picture—which is a very favorable comment," says Joe Stork, a deputy director of Human Rights Watch. Earlier this year King Mohammed VI won praise after his groundbreaking Equity and Reconciliation Commission criticized the torture and brutality that were commonplace under his father's 44-year rule. "We are all committed to never, ever again," says Jettou, though it should be noted that the commission declined to name names.
Women's rights are now among the most progressive in the Arab world, with recent reforms to the Sharia-based family law giving women equality within marriage, the right to file for divorce and the ability to pass their citizenship onto their children. The press has unprecedented freedom, with magazines publishing once-censored accounts of the royal family's finances and internationally respected film festivals freely screening controversial work. Attesting to the practical reality of these sweeping changes, prominent Moroccan writer and political dissident Abdelmoumen Diouri returned home after 35 years in European exile last month.
Yesterday, in THE VIEW FROM FEZ, we examined the impacts of mass tourism. The Newsweek article quoted above also has something to say on this.
Not everyone welcomes the influx. Budget airlines such as Europe's RyanAir and Jet4You offer dozens of flights for as little as £60, and recently there's been talk of a Eurostar-like train linking southern Spain to Tangier via a tunnel under the Strait of Gibraltar. But critics worry that Morocco will become a touristic North Africa Disneyland, with its own culture submerged in Marbella-style oases and loud British bachelor parties. "I'm worried that Marrakech will be flooded by package groups," says Dyer, who runs a guest house in the city's Kasbah.
Still, the biggest challenges Morocco faces are homegrown. Foremost among them is jobs, says the World Bank's Ahlers. Although unemployment has dropped significantly in recent years, it's still disproportionately high among Morocco's educated urban young. Thirty-five percent of university graduates are jobless—prompting many to seek work abroad. Poverty and social marginalization come next on Ahlers's list. Fifteen percent of the population, some 4.5 million people, lives below the poverty line. Successfully tackling these two problems, says Ahlers, is the only way to improve the quality of life in Morocco, curb illegal immigration and stem the appeal of Islamic extremism.
Even if those problems were indeed resolved, would Europe let Morocco into its club? It's more a pipe dream than a possibility, most experts agree. "Some people would simply find the idea too alien," says a senior Moroccan diplomat, who asked to remain anonymous because of his position. Nevertheless, a decade ago few could imagine Romania and Bulgaria being invited in—yet last week they were. The EU's official consideration of Turkey proves that Morocco's Islamic identity is not an unassailable hurdle either.
Prime Minister Jettou fantasizes about a future where Morocco is a de facto member of the EU, whether or not it wins bona fide membership. "In 10 years, we will be a full-fledged partner in the EU family," he predicts. "When Romano Prodi [the former president of the European Commission] proposed his European Neighborhood Policy in 2001, he meant that we should benefit from all the advantages of the EU—just without the institutions." Thanks to the free-trade agreements now being negotiated in Brussels and Rabat, Morocco will soon take a big step in that direction. According to EU Commissioner Ferrero-Waldner, Europe also aims to bring Morocco increasingly into the fold on major political discussions too, including immigration, social issues, foreign affairs and terrorism.
This "deepening relationship," as European diplomats put it, is proving to be something of a regional model by illustrating what other North African and Arab countries can hope to gain through EU cooperation. Many of the countries that signed up to the Euro-Med Partnership in Barcelona in 1995—like Algeria, Jordan and Syria—have slowed intended liberalizations and remained outside the new European "neighborhood." Part of the reason, says Erwan Lannon, a member of the Euro-Mediterranean Study Commission in Brussels, is because Europe expected them to reform economically and socially—but without the "golden carrot" of possible EU membership. Morocco's booming economy and improved living standards show that even without the "member" title, there are palpable benefits to linking up with Europe.
It is hoped it will be a two-way street. Moroccan influences are already being felt in European fashion, for instance, with clothing designers discovering kaftans and traditional tribal textiles. "Europeans are fascinated by our culture," says property developer Wafaa Snibla. "Their houses are more Moroccan than mine."
READ THE FULL STORY HERE:
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
For the European Union's part, says Benita Ferrero-Waldner, EU commissioner for external relations, "We already have a very, very close relationship with Morocco, and we're studying giving them even more advanced status."
Signs of Morocco's European-style openness are everywhere. The current government is the most democratic in the country's history. Next year's elections are expected to produce a popularly elected prime minister for the first time—previously, leaders of government were appointed by the king—and Morocco's notoriously poor human-rights record is getting a makeover. Cases of torture and arbitrary arrest are down dramatically; there are fewer political prisoners. "We see Morocco as a mixed picture—which is a very favorable comment," says Joe Stork, a deputy director of Human Rights Watch. Earlier this year King Mohammed VI won praise after his groundbreaking Equity and Reconciliation Commission criticized the torture and brutality that were commonplace under his father's 44-year rule. "We are all committed to never, ever again," says Jettou, though it should be noted that the commission declined to name names.
Women's rights are now among the most progressive in the Arab world, with recent reforms to the Sharia-based family law giving women equality within marriage, the right to file for divorce and the ability to pass their citizenship onto their children. The press has unprecedented freedom, with magazines publishing once-censored accounts of the royal family's finances and internationally respected film festivals freely screening controversial work. Attesting to the practical reality of these sweeping changes, prominent Moroccan writer and political dissident Abdelmoumen Diouri returned home after 35 years in European exile last month.
Yesterday, in THE VIEW FROM FEZ, we examined the impacts of mass tourism. The Newsweek article quoted above also has something to say on this.
Not everyone welcomes the influx. Budget airlines such as Europe's RyanAir and Jet4You offer dozens of flights for as little as £60, and recently there's been talk of a Eurostar-like train linking southern Spain to Tangier via a tunnel under the Strait of Gibraltar. But critics worry that Morocco will become a touristic North Africa Disneyland, with its own culture submerged in Marbella-style oases and loud British bachelor parties. "I'm worried that Marrakech will be flooded by package groups," says Dyer, who runs a guest house in the city's Kasbah.
Still, the biggest challenges Morocco faces are homegrown. Foremost among them is jobs, says the World Bank's Ahlers. Although unemployment has dropped significantly in recent years, it's still disproportionately high among Morocco's educated urban young. Thirty-five percent of university graduates are jobless—prompting many to seek work abroad. Poverty and social marginalization come next on Ahlers's list. Fifteen percent of the population, some 4.5 million people, lives below the poverty line. Successfully tackling these two problems, says Ahlers, is the only way to improve the quality of life in Morocco, curb illegal immigration and stem the appeal of Islamic extremism.
Even if those problems were indeed resolved, would Europe let Morocco into its club? It's more a pipe dream than a possibility, most experts agree. "Some people would simply find the idea too alien," says a senior Moroccan diplomat, who asked to remain anonymous because of his position. Nevertheless, a decade ago few could imagine Romania and Bulgaria being invited in—yet last week they were. The EU's official consideration of Turkey proves that Morocco's Islamic identity is not an unassailable hurdle either.
Prime Minister Jettou fantasizes about a future where Morocco is a de facto member of the EU, whether or not it wins bona fide membership. "In 10 years, we will be a full-fledged partner in the EU family," he predicts. "When Romano Prodi [the former president of the European Commission] proposed his European Neighborhood Policy in 2001, he meant that we should benefit from all the advantages of the EU—just without the institutions." Thanks to the free-trade agreements now being negotiated in Brussels and Rabat, Morocco will soon take a big step in that direction. According to EU Commissioner Ferrero-Waldner, Europe also aims to bring Morocco increasingly into the fold on major political discussions too, including immigration, social issues, foreign affairs and terrorism.
This "deepening relationship," as European diplomats put it, is proving to be something of a regional model by illustrating what other North African and Arab countries can hope to gain through EU cooperation. Many of the countries that signed up to the Euro-Med Partnership in Barcelona in 1995—like Algeria, Jordan and Syria—have slowed intended liberalizations and remained outside the new European "neighborhood." Part of the reason, says Erwan Lannon, a member of the Euro-Mediterranean Study Commission in Brussels, is because Europe expected them to reform economically and socially—but without the "golden carrot" of possible EU membership. Morocco's booming economy and improved living standards show that even without the "member" title, there are palpable benefits to linking up with Europe.
It is hoped it will be a two-way street. Moroccan influences are already being felt in European fashion, for instance, with clothing designers discovering kaftans and traditional tribal textiles. "Europeans are fascinated by our culture," says property developer Wafaa Snibla. "Their houses are more Moroccan than mine."
READ THE FULL STORY HERE:
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
Travel writing about Morocco - part six.
Regular readers of The View from Fez will be aware that we have been publishing the best and worst of travel writing about Morocco. Today, we continue that tradition, but with a difference. We are in debt to a reader for sending us the link for the following story.
THE JOYS OF TRIPADVISOR.
Previously we have mentioned how the website Tripadvisor needed to be approached with some caution, as many reviews for hotels and riads appear to be written by the owners or their very, very, close friends. We also observed that competitors have been known to post critical reviews.
Today we have two offerings: the first is a critical review.
April 6-9, 2006 We stayed in Riad Pasha. Located in Medina, Fes garden Tour starts near it. Has nice lobby and dining room. But rooms are not very comfortable. For the price 100 Euro per night they do not provide any room cleanup, no towel exchange, any soap or shampoo. Sheets and towels rather grey then white. In our room we had air conditioner and TV, 2 beds, but without any chairs or tables. Other available room was bigger, but with windows to the common area it was too noisy. Riad has 11 rooms, all was full and even in our room on the top floor you will not sleep until all diners are left and you will wake up when early raiser start breakfast.
Now the only thing to note about this review is that maybe the person writing it had English as a second language.
But then consider the follow-up review. Read it carefully - there will be a test!
I remained at Riad Al Pasha with my husband during five days. I reserved directly by the Internet and we arrived the morning, Loubna accommodated us as if we were long-term friends and the continuation Pasha which we were affected was still better than it looked on the Web site. The architecture of this riad so beautiful and is well maintained. The rooms are well maintained and comfortable, a beautiful terrace of roof with sights above the city and the surrounding mountains.
Riad received a reward for its restaurant. The only thing is that you must let them know in advance that you will come to the dinner or the lunch so that they prepare with you. It is normal in all Riads. after having tested a meal in their restaurant, we decided to dine our there each night. Food is excellent and the menu is the typical dishes not only of Tagine and Necks which you see in the majority of the restaurants, but there are more traditional dishes as well which are to be discovered interesting.
I must say that the personnel of Riad Al Pasha is incredibly interesting and the service is fabulous. We really liked the place. The total stay at Riad Al Pasha was pleasant. The owner Rachid and Loubna are very quite informed and have a bottom extended in the field of hospitality. Congratulations with the owner and the personnel of this Riad for a so pleasant and accessible place.
Test Questions.
1 - Who do you think wrote the review?
2 - What kind of food is "Necks"?
3 - Translate the following phrase - "The owner Rachid and Loubna are very quite informed and have a bottom extended in the field of hospitality."
4 - Was the review translated by Babelfish?
Send your answers to The View from Fez. The author of the most interesting answers will receive a free breakfast of "Necks" at Restaurant Thami in Fez!
Earlier Travel Writing stories:
Travel Writing Five
Travel Writing Four
Travel Writing Three
Travel Writing Two
Travel Writing One
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
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