Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Eid Mubarak


The View from Fez team sends best wishes for Id al Fitr to all our readers.

May the end of Ramadan bring peace, happiness and joy. May your heart sing with the music of life.

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Monday, September 29, 2008

Morocco to Spain undersea tunnel plan in doubt


A Spanish news report claims that the latest geological study has cast doubt on the feasibility of a project to build an undersea rail tunnel across the Strait of Gibraltar between Spain and Morocco.


Two clay sections under the sea would make it difficult to build the tunnel, the El Pais newspaper said, quoting a study recently presented to the Spanish public company SECEG, which is in charge of the project along with Morocco's SNED.

"It is not clear whether it will be possible," SECEG president Angel Aparicio said.

An engineer working on the project, Andrea Panciera, also said there were "huge uncertainties" and proposed building an exploratory tunnel from the Moroccan side up to the clay sections in order to carry out tests, El Pais quoted him as saying.

But such an option would add an extra billion dollars to the cost of the project, which is currently budgeted at five billion dollars (3.4 billion euros), and delay the start of construction by about eight years, it said.

"It is practically impossible to find an alternative solution," the paper said.

Rabat and Madrid commissioned a new study on the project in 2006, after a first plan was abandoned in the 1990s.

The mooted tunnel would be 38.7 kilometres long with 28 kilometres running some 400 metres (1,200 feet) under sea level.

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Moves toward Islamic Banking in Morocco



Dismissing criticisms on a clampdown of Islamic financial services in Morocco, the Moroccan financial authorities have now upped the ante on developing a more conducive platform for Islamic finance in the country. Currently, Morocco does not allow full fledged Islamic institutions and only conventional banks are permitted to offer Islamic financial services products, albeit, with a higher tax than conventional banking products. This will change soon.

Morocco financial authorities, criticised by powerful Islamist opposition for the slow start of Islamic banking, are determined to develop Islamic financial services, according to Morocco’s central bank chief.

“We have begun the experience of Islamic finance. We are assessing the result and will build on that to expand further Islamic banking services,” Abdellatif Jouahri (pictured left) told a news conference. Last year, Morocco authorised segments of Islamic finance partly to lure investment inflows from Gulf Arab states on which on their fast-growing tourism and real estate sectors depend.

Morocco has yet to allow fully-fledged Islamic banks to operate, with analysts arguing that Rabat government could be fearing that such banks might lend some backing to strong Islamist opposition.

Morocco now allows only conventional banks to offer Ijara leasing products, Murabaha contracts to buy and re-sell an underlying goods and Musharaka - co-ownership financing structures.

The government also imposes higher tax on Islamic financial products than conventional banking products.

“There is a problem with the tax and we are about to completely resolve it,” Jouahri said.

He dismissed Islamist critics that he and other financial officials were deliberately hindering the development of Islamic banking out of bias against Islamist groups.

“Banks had set up logistics structures to sell these financial services. They trained staff. All this was done because we want to develop Islamic banking,” he added.

Jouahri said Morocco has yet to authorise foreign Islamic banks because the authorities were put in awkward position by the high number of foreign investors willing to open Islamic banks there.

He said up to 10 investors from many Arab and Islamic states had expressed interests to open Islamic banks in Morocco.

Islamist-leaning Justice and Development Party (PJD), the main opposition group in the parliament, has said its members in the legislastive body would press the government to ease tax on Islamic banking and authorise Islamic banks to open.

PJD experts argue that developing Islamic banks and other related financial services would help Morocco adding up to 2.0 per cent growth on the top of average 4.0 per cent growth rate in the past decade.

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Saturday, September 27, 2008

Morocco shuts sixty Muslim schools


Authorities in Morocco have shut down about 60 Qur'anic schools belonging to a Muslim theologian who argues that girls as young as nine can marry. The authorities also plan to close down the internet site on which Sheikh Mohamed Ben Abderrahman Al-Maghraoui decreed earlier this month that the marriage of nine-year-old girls is allowed by Islam.


The sheikh said his decree was based on the fact that the Prophet Mohammad consummated his marriage to his favourite wife when she was that age.

Lawyers, the media, and finally Muslim scholars rounded on Maghraoui for effectively seeking to legalise paedophilia.

The authorities finally took action on Wednesday, shutting down his headquarters in Marrakesh and dozens of his small Qur'anic schools dotted around the country.

"The internet site 'Maghrawi.net' is going to be closed, while the headquarters of the Mohamed Maghraoui association in Marrakesh and his 'Qur'anic Houses' have already been closed," a security official said.

Sheikh Maghraoui's 'fatwa' or religious decree was condemned on Sunday by Morocco's top body of Islamic scholars. The High Council of Ulemas, which is presided over by Morocco's King Mohammed VI, labelled the sheikh an "agitator" and denounced his "utilisation of religion to legitimise the marriage of nine-year-old girls".

Rabat-based lawyer Mourad Bekkouri filed a complaint against Maghraoui and his fatwa earlier this month in which he said the decree damaged children's rights by increasing the risk of rape.

He said the theologian is undermining Islam and its followers and that he had requested the state prosecutor to speed up the case.

In related developments, Al-Ahdath Al-Maghribiya newspaper reportes that a Religious Ministry official has been fired in Marrakech for not catching al-Maghraoui's contentious fatwa.

None of the newspapers named their sources and Moroccan officials could not be reached Friday for comment. However the lawyer, El Bekkouri, confirmed the media reports.

Al-Maghraoui was not immediately available for comment, but his Web site appeared to be accessible from outside Morocco.

Several newspapers reported that al-Maghraoui's religious schools and his Web site were funded by Saudi Arabia, which promotes a particularly rigorous strain of Islam known as Wahhabism. Since suicide bombings in Casablanca in 2003 Morocco has been deeply concerned about rising levels of extremism, and in particular the Wahhabi schools set up by Saudi Arabian-funded preachers.


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Friday, September 26, 2008

Ahmed El Maanouni's 1981 movie "Transes" to screen at festival


Ahmed El Maanouni's 1981 movie "Transes" is to get a screening at the 35th edition of the Ghent Film Festival in Belgium, which runs from October 7th to 18th.

"Transes" is a 92-minute documentary that examines the immensely popular Moroccan Music group "Nass el-Ghiwane" and emphasizes the musical characteristics of this group inspired by Moroccan and African heritage.

The Belgian festival that will pay special tribute to African, Iranian, Afghan and Turkish cinema will also feature exhibitions dedicated to cinema.

Ghent Film Festival, themed "the impact of music on film", is the biggest annual international movie festival in Belgium, attracting many famous film producers from around the world. Over 200 films will be screened at this year's festival.

Dans les années 70, 'Nass El Ghiwane', provoque une explosion musicale qui devient pour les jeunes, le cri de leurs désirs, de leurs frustrations et de leur révolte. Ce film est l'itinéraire du groupe musical Nass El Ghiwane, formé à l'école de la rue, et qui utilise la transe, expression populaire rituelle des Gnaoua d'Essaouira, comme véhicule d'une expression moderne.



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Lulu in Marrakech - a bit ho-hum.



Morocco is gaining in popularity as a backdrop for fiction. One of the latest additions for your Moroccan bookshelf is Lulu in Marrakech by Diane Johnson.



The narrator of 
Lulu in Marrakech, Diane Johnson's rather shallow, new confection of a novel, 
is a very unlikely CIA spy on assignment as an 
undercover agent in Morocco. The pretty Lulu is supposed to be collecting " humint - human intelligence" on Muslim 
terrorist networks and what better way than to infiltrate the affluent expat culture and listening to gossip over alcohol-soaked alfresco lunches. Oh really? Just the place you would find Al-Qaeda - not.

With a stock cast of characters who spend their time flirting, making love, talking to and constantly about each other there seems little need of a meaningful plot but Diane Johnson attempts to insert one and comes up with an unbelievable tale of dear sweet Lulu's role in the abduction of a terrorist suspect. 
Plausible? No, but then I suspect this book was never intended to be anything other than light and fluffy. At the end of the day spooks like Lulu probably deserve a change of occupation.


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Downturn in British visitors to Fez


We have reported in the past about the impact on tourist numbers in Fez of the withdrawal of the number of direct flights from the U.K. Now it appears the Moroccan government is taking the problem seriously although at this stage there is no indication of what concrete steps the government intends to make.

According to Mohamed Boussaïd, the Minister for Tourism (pictured left), the U.K. market is of paramount importance for Morocco.

During a meeting on Thurday with U.K. ambassador to Morocco, Timothy Morris, the minister raised the issue of the Air Passenger Duty whose impact has been "extremely negative" on Moroccan tourism, adding that the doubling of such a tax, imposed in 2007, has "clearly broken the dynamic of the growth in the number of British tourists."

Minister Boussaid also said destinations like Marrakech, Agadir and especially Fez have witnessed a significant drop in the number of British tourists.

For his part, Morris expressed total understanding of the issue, expressing hope that more British businessmen will choose Morocco as an investment destination, mainly in the tourism sector.

The U.K. is the third tourist exporter to Morocco after France and Spain with some 338,304 British visitors. The number is due to rise, reaching 670,000 in 2010.

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Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Moroccan Movie a Hit with American Students


John Hamilton reports from an American college where screening of a Moroccan film has opened cross-cultural bridges.

The mood in the Flavin Auditorium at the University of Massachusetts last Wednesday night could be described as both eager and anxious.

Anne Ciecko, a member of the Interdepartmental Film Program and curator of the Panorama event, provided a brief introduction to the film.

"A contemporary classic of Arab cinema, the film is an expression of Islam through a hybrid of classic Islamic teachings and popular Islamic traditions," Ciecko said.

Ciecko also pointed out that Farida Ben Lyzaid, the female director of "Sky," dedicated the film to Fatina Fihra, a Muslim woman and founder of one of the world's oldest universities, constructed in 10th century Fez, Morocco.

In line with her film, the director hoped to "acknowledge that women held important roles in Islamic history and culture," According to Ciecko.

The film depicts the journey of Nadia (Chaidia Hadraoui), a Moroccan emigrant who returns to her home in Fez after having left for Paris many years prior.

A mix of Thandie Newton and Cosby-era Lisa Bonet, Hadraoui's striking features and piercing black eyes express more longing and emotion than any 100-page screenplay could ever hope to convey.

Nadia arrives in Fez for her father's funeral dressed in black punk clothing, with streaks of scarlet dyed into her frizzy mop, and it first appears that this will be just another fish-out-of-water tale.

Surprisingly, the director does not follow the cliché plot points of a westernized woman feeling out of place in her Muslim home. Instead, Lyzaid approaches the story through a route less-often traveled: Nadia must come to terms with the idea that after years of searching for what she thought she could find in the western world, she may actually discover in the place that she had initially left behind.

The film makes oft-repeated use of the panoramic views of the city, a jigsaw puzzle of sandcastles eclipsed by distant gray mountains.

Through this technique, the audience is constantly reminded that they are watching a Moroccan film.

Constant prayer chanting is also heard throughout the film, serving as an ever-present soundtrack to the life that Nadia is taking on.

Initially meant to be an event showcasing two films, the first, a short film entitled "Under the Sun," experienced some technical difficulties, and could not be shown. Had it been screened, it would have been its New England premiere. Director Ali Mostafa, a graduate of the prestigious London Film School, produced this short as a senior project, and is currently working on his first feature-length film.

The Arab Cinema Panorama screenings will continue weekly through December.



John B. Hamilton can be reached at hamilton@student.umass.edu.


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Women, Language, and Power in Morocco


Fatima Sadiqi is well known to readers of The View from Fez as Director General of the Fes Festival of Sacred Music. However she has another life as a Professor of Linguistics and Gender Studies. For those lucky enough to be near Syracuse University there is a chance to hear her speak on Women, Language and Power in Morocco.

Fatima Sadiqi has written extensively on Moroccan languages and Moroccan women’s issues. She founded the Centre for Studies and Research on Women at the University of Fes. She is currently President and Founder of the ISIS Center for Women and Development and is Editor-in-Chief of Languages and Linguistics. Her books include Women, Gender, and Language in Morocco (2003), Migration and Gender in Morocco (2008), and Women as Agents of Change in the Middle East and North Africa (forthcoming Routledge, 2009). Professor Sadiqi serves on the editorial board of the journal Gender and Language.

DETAILS

Fatima Sadiqi
Professor of Linguistics and Gender Studies
Director General of the Fes Festival of Scared Music.
www.fatimasadiqi.on.ma
Thursday, October 2nd at 5pm
Peter Graham Commons, E.S. Bird Library
Syracuse University



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Monday, September 22, 2008

Molotov Cocktail Attack in Morocco


Three people have been injured in a bizarre attack on a car belonging to the head of the judiciary police squad in the southern city of Smara on Sunday night.

According to witnesses the attack occurred at 10pm on the main street of the Al-Aouda neighborhood, located on the outskirts of the city. Five home-made Molotov cocktails tossed in the direction of the vehicle carrying one officer and two noncommissioned officers.

"This heinous act, which has completely burnt the police vehicle, claimed three victims suffering minor burns: a police inspector and two citizens including a woman who, by act of citizenship, had tried to help the police," said a police spokesman.

Word is that there has been a massive police response with large-scale combing operations to identify and arrest the perpetrators. The police have stressed that the initial findings of the police were established in the presence of the representative of the General Prosecutor.

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Portuguese to open Lisbon to Casablanca service


The "TAP Portugal" airline will open a new service fromf October 27 with regular flights between Lisbon and Casablanca.

Six weekly flights will take place between the two cities according to the press release from Financeira agency.

The Mohammed V international airport of Casablanca is one of "the main platforms of correspondence with several West African countries," the same source added.

The launch of "TAP Portugal" flights to Morocco was announced last July in Lisbon during the 10th session of Moroccan-Portuguese high-level meeting.

Casablanca will be the 8th destination served by "TAP Portugal" in the African countries after Bissau, Dakar, Luanda, Maputo, Johannesburg, Sao Tome, Sal and Praia (Cape Verde).


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Saturday, September 20, 2008

Morocco holds its legislative by-elections


Morocco holds its legislative by-elections between Friday and Sunday with over 800,000 out of 16 million registered voters to elect seven legislators at the lower chamber of the parliament which comprises 325 members.

These by-elections cover four electoral constituencies with two targeted zones – central Marrakech and southern Safi- where four seats are up for grabs.

The Safi constituency will be contested in a list system whereas the three others are governed by the one-seat rule.

There is "not much at stake" in these polls which are held after the illegibility of the candidates that contested the September 2007 legislative elections marked by a turnout of 37 percent.

A new political party, the Party for Authenticity and Modernity (PAM) runs for the by-elections to show its "electoral potential". The PAM is led by former Home Affairs vice-minister, Fouad Ali El Himma, who resigned from his post to vie for the 2007 legislative polls and headed a list which swept all the three seats.

According to observers, the turnout during the legislative elections will serve as a telling sign about the expected turnout during the 2009 communal polls.

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Thursday, September 18, 2008

Morocco and the World Economic Crisis



According to a Reuters report Morocco's Central Bank is more worried by inflation than by global financial markets turmoil originating in the United States.

Le Matin
reports sources close to the Royal Palace as saying, "For the time being, inflation remains a cause of concern because despite efforts to keep it in check, imported inflation has an impact. Inflation through costs has an impact and creates, with wage rises, a vicious circle".

Moroccan consumer price inflation rose to a year-on-year 5.1 percent in July from 4.7 percent in June, according to latest official figures released on August 18.

The annual inflation rate was 5.4 percent in May.

In June, the government said it forecast annual inflation of 2.7-2.9 percent, up from an initial estimate of 2.0 percent.

Commenting on a sell-off on Casablanca bourse prompted early this week by fears of contagion from global financial turmoil the source says, "We are not affected by the international crisis because we do not have subprime loans in our banks. We are not concerned by the mortgage crisis and our banks do not have such assets".

Moroccan stocks, mainly property shares, tumbled this week on concern that the global credit crisis could dry up foreign investment flow in the country's fast-growing real estate market, wiping out more than 50 billion dirhams in shareholder value.

Government officials played down investor fears of possible repercussions from the international credit crisis on the local property market, insisting that the domestic sector would continue growing in the next years.

"Where is the crisis when credits to the property market had risen 33 percent in July?" asked Finance Minister Salaheddine Mezouar in the business daily L'Economiste.

Morocco is immune to the subprime crisis for several reasons, notably the fact that the financial sector does not hold securities or loans in financial institutions or international investment funds affected by subprimes, Salaheddine Mezouar said on Thursday.

Speaking at the weekly cabinet meeting on the recent developments of national economy and international environment, Mezouar said that real estate loans in Morocco are mainly fixed interest rate loans with the possibility for variable interest rate loan beneficiaries to opt for fixing these rates under regulated and predictable conditions, Communication minister and Government Spokesperson, Khalid Naciri, said in a press briefing at the end of this meeting.

The financial situation of Moroccan banking institutions has significantly improved in recent years, thanks mainly to the strengthening of banking supervision in general and the stabilization of the public financial sector in particular, the minister said, adding that the upsurge in the energy and food products had an impact on our balance of payments and our public finances.

However, he noted, thanks to government support through the fund of compensation, the effects of this upsurge has had no impact on the purchasing power of our citizens, nor on production factors.

According to the minister, real GDP rose respectively by 7% and 6.7% in the first two quarters of 2008, which would allow for a growth rate estimated at 6.8% this year.

According to a report being run by Maghreb Arabe Presse, Morocco's cost-of-living index for August has edged 4.8% from the same period of last year, the High Commission for Planning (HCP) said on Thursday.

The rise is pinned on a 8.3% hike of the food product prices and a 1.8% progress of non-food product prices, the Rabat-based HCP said in its monthly bulletin.

Compared to July, the index edged 0.4%, inflated by a 0.8% rise of the food product prices and a 0.1% progress of non-food products, it said.

The year-on-year index for July had jumped 5.1% on the food price hike, which had rocketed 9.1%.

The highest rise was registered in the western city of Kenitra, with 1.3%, followed by Tangier, where the index rose 1.2% and Fez and Tetouan (1%), the commission said.


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1200 years of gourmet history in Fez!



Between October 23rd and 26th our wonderful city of Fez will host the 4th Culinary Arts Festival under the theme "1200 years of gourmet history in Fez."

The festival, which coincides with the commemoration of the 1200th anniversary of the founding of Fez, will highlight the arts, savoir-faire and rituals of Moroccan gastronomy, one of the world's finest.

This annual event is also meant to build bridges with other cultures and civilizations of the Mediterranean and other countries in the world.



The festival features a rich and varied menu, including lectures on the history of Moroccan cuisine, tasting ceremonies of dishes from France, Spain, India and Japan, presentations of local products, and screening of the "Sweet-Salty" movie by director Ang Lee, in addition to music concerts.


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Happiness mixed with sadness for freed blogger.


"The ruling today showed the situation of human rights has changed in Morocco and there is improvement in court dealings with cases related to rights of opinion and free press" Erraji's lawyer
There was relief in the media and blogging communities with the news that a Moroccan appeals court on Thursday cancelled the two-year jail sentence given to Mohamed Errajia for disparaging King Mohammed and the royal family. Last week, the blogger was jailed and fined 5,000 dirhams. He was later released on bail pending the appeals court ruling.

Erraji's "crime' was that he wrote in online newspaper, Hespress, that Morocco had been destroyed by the practice of handing out charity or gifts such as taxi licences to a lucky few, which encouraged people to beg.

From New York, the Committee to Protect Journalists welcomed a Moroccan court decision. On Monday the Committee had sent a letter to King Mohamed VI urging him to ensure that the court of appeal would overturn the sentence.

“I am very happy with today’s court ruling, which came after a summary and unfair ruling,” Erraji told CPJ. “But at the same time, my happiness is mixed with feelings of sadness, because it never occurred to me that one day I would be arbitrarily accused of showing disrespect toward the king, which is a grave accusation.”

Ahmed Belouch, presiding judge at the appeals court in the southern city of Agadir is reported as saying, "The case is not acceptable and the case was abandoned and thrown out of court." Judge Belouch cited flaws in prosecuting the case of the 29-year-old blogger, including the failure to summon him to attend trial 15 days before he actually appeared in court and his unlawful detention ahead of the trial. Erraji had no defence lawyer.

"The ruling today showed the situation of human rights has changed in Morocco and there is improvement in court dealings with cases related to rights of opinion and free press," said Abdellatif Ouammou, who was Erraji lawyer.

As we pointed out in an earlier story, Morocco is far from alone in prosecuting such cases. An American blogger has been sentenced to three months in jail for accusing a Singapore judge of "prostituting herself".

Gopalan Nair, 58, said he planned to appeal.

An official with the Supreme Court did not provide details but confirmed the sentence, which was issued Wednesday.

Local newspapers said Nair was given until Saturday to settle his affairs before he is taken to prison.

"I'm going to serve the sentence," Nair said, adding he has no regrets. "I only wrote a blog. I didn't go out and kill anybody."

In his blog, Nair had criticised a legal hearing at which Singapore founding father Lee Kuan Yew and his son, Prime Minister Lee Hsien Loong, testified in a defamation case they filed against an opposition party.

Nair was charged with insulting Justice Belinda Ang Saw Ean by saying she was "prostituting herself during the entire proceedings, by being nothing more than an employee of Mr Lee Kuan Yew and his son and carrying out their orders," a court document said.

Earlier story: Not Just a Moroccan Issue


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Anti-Semtic and anti-Muslim attitudes rise in Europe


The ABC in Australia have just posted a disturbing story about changing attitudes in Europe towards faith-based communities. Surprisingly it also shows a rise in anti-Christian feelings.


Anti-Muslim and anti-Jewish feelings are rising in several major European countries, according to a worldwide survey released overnight.

The Washington-based Pew Research Centre's global attitude survey found 46 per cent of Spanish, 36 per cent of Poles and 34 per cent of Russians viewed Jews unfavourably, while the same was true for 25 per cent of Germans, and 20 per cent of French.

In Australia the figure was 11 per cent.

Spain has not had a large Jewish population since expelling its Jews in 1492. The other four countries have a long history of anti-Semitism.

The figures are all higher than in comparable Pew surveys done in recent years, the report said, and "in a number of countries the increase has been especially notable between 2006 and 2008".

Opinions of Muslims are also dimming compared to previous years with 52 per cent in Spain, 50 per cent in Germany, 46 per cent in Poland and 38 per cent in France having negative attitudes toward them.

Associate director of the attitudes project, Richard Wike, said in an interview the poll did not try to find out why attitudes have changed, but other data indicates negative attitudes toward Israel could be driving anti-Semitic feelings.

He also said concerns about extremism and immigration may be a factor in negative views toward Muslims.

Britain was the only European country without a substantial increase in anti-Semitic attitudes, the report said, with just 9 per cent in that country rating Jews unfavourably.

In the United States 7 per cent had negative views of Jews.

But about one in four in the United States and Britain thought poorly of Muslims.

"There is a clear relationship between anti-Jewish and anti-Muslim attitudes," the report said.

"[Those] that view Jews unfavourably also tend to see Muslims in a negative light."

The findings were based on interviews with 24,717 people in 24 countries earlier this year.

The poll had error margins ranging from plus or minus 2 to 4 percentage points, varying by country.

The most extreme anti-Jewish feelings, the poll said, were found in predominantly Muslim nations, where favourable attitudes were only in the single digits among Turks, Egyptians, Jordanians, Lebanese, and Pakistani.


Suicide bombing support erodes


But in many predominantly Muslim countries there has been an erosion of support since 2002 for suicide bombing and other violence against civilians in the name of Islam.

In 2002, about 75 per cent of Lebanese Muslims said such attacks could often or sometimes be justified, but the figure dropped to about 33 per cent in the latest poll. Lebanese Prime Minister Rafiq Hariri was assassinated in a massive explosion in February 2004, setting off a wave of political murders.

The survey also said positive attitudes toward Osama bin Laden have declined in several countries but the Al Qaeda leader still enjoys high support in Nigeria, Indonesia and Pakistan.

The poll also found:


- France is the most secular nation surveyed, with 60 per cent saying they never pray and only one in 10 rating religion as important in their life.

- Anti-Christian attitudes have been on the rise in Spain where 24 per cent now rate Christians negatively, up from 10 per cent in 2005.

- Majorities in Indonesia, Pakistan, Tanzania, Lebanon, Egypt, Jordan and Nigeria say they are concerned about Islamic extremism.

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Travel Writing about Morocco #23

In our series on travel writing about Morocco we have often been critical of simplistic stereotyping and ill-informed information. So it was refreshing to discover a "foodie" article about Morocco. Cynthia Clampitt writes a couple of blogs as well as contributing to magazines. Her The World's Fare blog is certainly worth a look.

Here is her recent entry -


MOROCCO ROCKS!


By Cynthia Clampitt

My name is Cynthia Clampitt, and I am a writer, world traveler, and culinary historian. I am a fourth-generation foodie who grew up in a family that shared my love of good food and the open road. I have been to 35 countries on six continents, and I’ve studied food, history, and/or cooking in many of those countries.



In the market in Meknes, olives and preserved lemons are stacked in impressive displays

Granted, I fall in love with almost every place I visit, but Morocco really surpassed expectations. It was gorgeous, ancient, evocative, rich in culture, with friendly people and surprising scenery. I saw everything I expected and even more I didn’t expect.
I visited in March, and I tend to believe the locals who told me this was the best time of year to visit. The weather was perfect and everything was in bloom. As we traveled from Casablanca to Rabat, we were amazed at the beauty of the countryside: incredible greenery, fabulous wildflowers running riot in fields and on hillsides, olive groves, lush farms, and rows of trees interspersed between small towns. We followed the curve of the country, the Atlantic Ocean off to our left, and finally arrived in the medieval city of Rabat just after noon. It was lunchtime, so our first stop was, of course, a restaurant: Borj Eddar, a wonderfully weathered seaside establishment in an ancient, golden-stone building with a view of the ocean and the nearby walled city. We enjoyed a splendid meal of saffron-tinted fish soup, fresh, charcoal-grilled sardines, and a flavorful white fish for which we could acquire no recognizable name. Then it was off for a hike through Rabat.

Rabat is the capital of Morocco and one of the country’s four imperial cities. The city was founded in the 12th century. The fort here was the starting point for jihad against Spain. The city’s name is derived from the Arabic Ribat al-Fath, or “Camp of Victory.” After 1609, it became home to a large number of Andalusian Moors who had been driven out of Spain. It later became a pirate stronghold, base camp for the Sallee Corsairs, the most dreaded of the Barbary pirates. (Barbary comes from Berber, which in turn comes from the Roman “barbar”—the sound of a wild animal, and the source, also, of the word barbarian.)

We wandered through the narrow, labyrinthine alleyways, of Rabat’s medina (Muslim Medieval walled city), through the kasbah, or palace, and into the riad, or garden. A riad should include sound (fountains, birds) and color (flowers and fruit). This riad, ringed by high, crenellated walls, accomplished these goals, with tiled fountains, lawns dotted with flowers, and trees filled with incredibly bright oranges—which I in time learned was pretty much the standard in Morocco.

That night we dined at Dinarjat, one of Rabat’s best-known restaurants. Returning to the medina, we walked through long, narrow alleys, where we were met by a tall man in red who wore a fez and carried an old, brass lantern. He guided us to a magnificent, refurbished old mansion with high arches, wonderful tile work, and vaulted ceilings. Lavishly embroidered sofas surrounded low tables (which we were to learn was the classic and almost ubiquitous dining arrangement in Morocco, even in private homes.)

The meal started with traditional hand washing, as meals are eaten with hands (traditionally—it was not expected of us). A silver bowl filled with rose petals was held beneath our hands as warm rosewater was poured over our fingers from a silver kettle. Then dinner was served.

The meal started with a “salad” course: potato with cilantro, cucumber with tomato, spinach, eggplant, beets with onion and cilantro, fava beans, and peppers with onions. Next, we were served the famed Moroccan specialty bestila, a pigeon pie with a flaky phyllo crust, dusted with powdered sugar and cinnamon. Then came briwat, small, fried pastries filled with meat. This was followed by three tagines—Morocco’s signature roast/stew. One was lamb with raisins and almonds, one was beef with artichoke bottoms, and one was chicken with preserved lemon and brown olives. Dessert was jawhara—a stack of crispy phyllo rounds layered with cream and milk, honey, almonds, and rosewater. It was delicious, the rosewater giving it an almost ethereal quality.


We were off the next day for more adventures. We visited Meknes, another of the four imperial cities. Meknes was built by Moulay Ismail, who was a contemporary of Louis XIV (the two once exchanged gifts). Moulay Ismail was a powerful and ruthless leader famous for his thriving white-slave trade. However, he was admired for bringing together the country, uniting independent states, tribes, and small kingdoms into the larger kingdom of Morocco. Meknes offers fabulous ruins and reminders of this period, but is also the site of a glorious market. In the great market near the Bab Mansoor Gate, handsome, tile-roofed stalls are piled high with tagines and pots, spices and confections, olives and preserved lemons, veggies, pastries, breads, meats, and cages full of chickens and pigeons. We wandered through the narrow, crowded alleys that wound between the lushly stocked food stalls, stopping to admire the skill with which everything was displayed—perfect piles in elaborate geometric patterns. Just stunning.

Spices are piled high at this shop in the souks of Marrakech

Continuing our travels through the country, we admired Moulay Idris, a cluster of white buildings perched among green hills that was the first Arab city in Morocco and toured Volubilis, the Roman city from which the Romanized Berber king, Juba II, and his queen, daughter of Cleopatra and Marc Antony, ruled the kingdoms of Numidia and Mauritania. The ruins were fabulous, and our guide pointed out that the ancient Roman olive oil presses still abundant at the site are virtually identical to the olive oil presses being used in rural areas of Morocco today. (And I must say, the olive oil we encountered in rural areas was amazing—thick, richly flavored, and surprisingly varied.)

Next, we reached Fes, another imperial city and the location of what is considered to be the most fabulous medina still in existence. The medina of Fes is like another world—and another time. This World Heritage Site, which covers 64 square miles, is home to 500,000 people—and 7,000 donkeys and burros. It is an incredible, ancient labyrinth—one where you really must have a guide, as there are 9,000 alleys, 850 of them dead ends.

The medina is a heaving sea of humanity. Everyone is bustling, going somewhere, carrying something, making something, selling something. Children carry dough to the communal ovens for baking (1/2 dirham per loaf, to have your bread baked). Students dash into the Koranic schools. Merchants cry to clients. Merchandise teeters in great piles, hangs from rafters, spills out of doorways. Heavily laden donkeys complicate transit through the narrow, crowded alleys. We listened for the cry of “balak, balak,” the warning that a donkey is being driven through, usually by someone whose view of the alley is blocked by the donkey’s burden.

Fes was definitely a highlight of the trip—but not the only highlight. We crossed the impressive, snow-capped Atlas Mountains. We drove along roads built by the French Foreign Legion. We dropped down into the Tafilalt Valley, the largest oasis in Morocco (kind of like the Grand Canyon filled with date palms), and finally went off road. We spent three nights camping in the Sahara. There were so many delights there: the incredible majesty of the undulating red-gold dunes, the Berbers, and Touaregs, and the almost overwhelming star-show at night. We visited a nomad family in their tent, and we even got to spend a morning traveling across the desert by camel.

We really did far too much for me to even hint at it all. We visited farms, schools, and private homes. We met locals. We got our hands hennaed. We bought fossils (Morocco is incredibly rich in fossilized sea creatures). We saw an astonishing variety of scenery—desert, ancient town, oasis, snow-capped mountain, pine and cedar forests, verdant farms, deep gorges, and seashores. (No wonder this is a popular place to make movies—from Lawrence of Arabia to The Man Who Would be King to Jewel of the Nile— everything you need is within a day’s journey.) We stayed in Tineghir and Ourzazate. We drove though the Valley of Roses and explored the magnificently ancient Aït Ben Haddou, a mud-brick city that was used as a set in, among other films, Gladiator.

We ended our journey in Marrakech, a wonderfully cosmopolitan city that is very Moroccan but still sufficiently Westernized to make you feel like you’ve begun your trip home. We did all the things one is supposed to do in Marrakech. We visited the famous museums, palace, and gardens, ate local specialties (mishoui, a pit-roasted, butter-and-herb basted lamb you eat with your hands, dipping it in freshly ground cumin and coarse salt, and chicken tagine au citrons, specialty of the restaurant Dar si Aïssa, and one of the best chicken dishes I’ve ever eaten), road around town in caleches, perused shops, and hung out in the fabulous town square, the famous Jemaa al Fna, where snake charmers and colorfully dressed water sellers vie for one’s attention.

Our farewell dinner was in a palace that had been turned into a restaurant called The Red House. Our feast began with brionates (fried, meat-stuffed pastries) and an array of Moroccan vegetable salads. For our main course, we were served traditional Marrakech pigeon pie (whole pigeon baked in phyllo pastry with onions and cinnamon), tagine of lamb with tomato and onion, and a vegetarian couscous. Dessert was the orange salad reproduced in this accompanying recipe. I felt certain that this orange dish must have been the ambrosia the Greek gods were eating on Olympus—the rosewater lifts the oranges to an entirely new plain.

It is hard to do justice to Morocco in one article. The layers of history, the physical beauty, the fascinating cultures and cuisine, and the friendly people made it a most memorable destination. One guide had given us a speech about how much our visiting Morocco means to the country, and how every penny we spent would help the economy and help keep the old crafts alive. Tourism is Morocco’s future, he said, and he hoped we would be taking good stories home with us. No problem there—for us, good stories were even more abundant than souvenirs.

This story originally appeared in a slightly different form in Hungry Magazine.

©2008 Cynthia Clampitt



Check out our earlier travel writing stories: TRAVEL INDEX



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Moroccan Blogger Mohammed Erraji is free!


Sanity prevails in Morocco and the Blogger Mohammed Erraji has been acquitted by appeals court on all charges and is now free.

Ouf de soulagement : La Cour d'appel d'Agadir a annulé jeudi une peine de deux ans de prison prononcée en première instance contre erraji.

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Is Morocco immune to the property crunch?



According to Property Wire, North Africa's fast growing property sector could be the next to be affected by the credit crunch and turmoil on Wall Street. Their front page headline warned: 

Booming property market in Morocco waits for Wall Street effect
North Africa's fast growing property sector could be the next to be affected by the credit crunch and turmoil on Wall Street.
As more US banks seek mergers to avoid the crash that brought Lehman Brothers down earlier this week, the effect on finance markets is spreading across the world. In Morocco, which has been largely immune to the global credit crunch, property stocks are tumbling.

Moroccan real estate shares fell as much as 6% on Wednesday amid concern that the credit crisis could dampen foreign interest in the North African country's fast-growing property sector.

Analysts said the Moroccan stock market had been stagnating for several months as investors felt share prices had outpaced earnings expectations, especially for property stocks. Shares in real estate firm Addoha ADH.CS were suspended after tumbling 6% to 162.05 dirhams. The stock has lost 45% of its value this year.

Other key companies including Cie. Generale Immobiliere CGI.CS, a property unit of state investment vehicle CDG, and Alliances Development Immobilier ADI.CS, also all suffered falls of around 6%.

'Analysts have said the market is overvalued and a correction would be healthy,' said a Casablanca analyst who asked not to be named.

He said that property stocks were seen as among the most overvalued, and are also a source of particular concern given the global credit crisis.

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Wednesday, September 17, 2008

What the Chrome is happening?


"Jordanian blogger Qwaider writes of his prediction that Chrome will eventually outdo Firefox in the browser wars." - Jillian C York posting on Global Voices
Syrian Yaser Sadeq says Google new browser Chrome is not available in Syria because “our friends in Google corp. have decided or agreed to withhold their services from Syrian users as part of the embargo by the U.S government against Syria.” - Amira al Hussaini on Global Voices
Bloggers around the world have been quick on taking up the latest browser in the market. As Qwaider in Jordan wrote:

Microsoft, killed Netscape navigator. Eight years later, Google is doing exactly the same thing to the popular browser, Firefox. This time using their own browser -er, excuse me, Application Shell. Relying on it's dominance of the search and services market.

According to recent amazing statistics from StatCounter, based on 250 Million page views globally, Chrome, is killing Firefox, Safari and Opera.

Surpassing Safari and Opera in it's first day, and going after Firefox next. Snatching a precious 4% of Firefox's market share in 3 days.

Surprisingly, IE's share grew 4% also, at who's expense do you think?

I still expect Google to play dirty. See your Google Analytics? Google has confirmed that it has been filtering out Chrome hits before it's release date. Which makes you wonder, what else is Google hiding? Or what will they hide next. But most importantly, are they going to be biased towards their own browser when comparing it to others in Analytics? You bet!

Chrome not so shiny - yet.

So is all of this important to day to day bloggers and web surfers? On the surface Chrome (in its present form) is basic in the extreme and yet if I was Microsoft I would be a little concerned about its rate of uptake and its potential down the track.

On the plus side Chrome it is extremely easy to use, super-fast and crash free. However on the negative, those of us who have been enjoying Firefox with all its plug-ins and little extras can only hope that Google have them waiting in the wings. At the moment it feels like going out in your underwear rather than in a nicely tailored outfit.

Early reviews have as "minimalist in the extreme", easy-to-use, crash-free and super-fast, but some have criticised its lack of support for certain features - most notably plug-in extensions - and poorly worded terms of use.

Essentially Chrome allows Google to put all its goodies in the one basket with the company's web applications including its search, Gmail and word processing tools accessed through the web browser. The obvious implication is that Google will have the ability to direct its users away from Microsoft which means web surfers will be exposed more frequently to Google ads.

Asher Moses in the Sydney Morning herald quotes Microsoft's general manager of Internet Explorer Dean Hachamovitch telling The New York Times he thought Internet Explorer 8 was better "for what people do every day again and again".

Speed test applications provided by Google show Chrome as being 10-15 times faster than competitors Internet Explorer, Firefox and Safari.

However, Firefox creator Mozilla fired back with its own test results showing an upcoming version of Firefox performing up to 30 per cent faster than Chrome.

Both tests were based on the performance of JavaScript, the programming language that powers most internet applications.

The Wall Street Journal's Walt Mossberg said his tests found that Chrome was slower at loading web pages than Firefox and Safari but faster than Internet Explorer 8.

CNET's Molly Wood, on the other hand, said Chrome was so fast she thought it must be a trick. "The tabs almost seem to click themselves; the autocomplete is so speedy that I thought it was reading my mind," she said.

Chrome in Morocco

Chrome is available and works in Morocco and our first (admitedly unscientific) trial-runs in the notoriously slow internet Fez Medina certainly showed off Chrome's speed. For Maroc telecom subscribers the speed will certainly be a plus. The lack of extensions and other plug-ins remains a problem but Google are certainly aware of this and will be on the case.

However I doubt that the uptake will be particularly fast in sectors other than the blogging community. Time will tell.

We would love to hear your thoughts on Chrome V Firefox (or Safari and Internet Explorer.)



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Moroccan online journalism training


Un programme sur le journalisme en ligne à Ifrane, Fès, Oujda, Nador, Marrakech, Agadir, Tétouan, Errachidia, Casablanca et Rabat au profit de 200 journalistes marocains nationaux et régionaux.

A program on online journalism will be held in Ifrane, Fez, Oujda, Nador, Marrakech, Agadir, Tetouan, Errachidia, Casablanca and Rabat for 200 journalists working at national and regional levels.

Un programme de formation sur le journalisme en ligne et les techniques de publication sur internet, sur les blogs, les podcasts et les techniques de rédaction sur internet, sera organisé au profit de 200 journalistes nationaux et régionaux, par la société « MIT Media» basée à Technopark de Casablanca et ce, à partir du mois d’octobre 2008.

The training program will include online journalism and publishing technologies on the internet, on blogs, podcasts and writing techniques for the Internet. It will be organized by the "MIT Media" a company based at the Technopark in Casablanca beginning in October 2008.

Cette formation, parrainée par l’ambassade des Etats-Unis au Maroc et financée par «l’Initiative de partenariat avec le Moyen-Orient – MEPI» sera étalée sur six mois.

This training is sponsored by the Embassy of the USA in Morocco and financed by the "Partnership Initiative with the Middle East - MEPI" and will be phased in over six months.

Chaque formation, qui durera deux jours, sera centrée, entre autres, autour de la technique de recherche et de la rédaction sur Internet, la création et l’animation d’un blog et d’un podcast ainsi que les outils de travail collaborateur (téléphonie sur IP, bureaux en ligne, listes de diffusion).

Each course will last two days and will focus around technical research and writing on the Internet, creating and running a blog and a podcast as well as working tools collaborator ( Voice over IP, offices online mailing list setc).

Les jeunes journalistes de la presse écrite, la radio, la TV et la presse régionale, basés à Ifrane, Fès, Oujda, Nador, Marrakech, Agadir, Tétouan, Errachidia, Casablanca et Rabat, bénéficieront de cette formation, qui sera conduite par le journaliste Rachid Jankari, journaliste et consultant en formation sur les nouveaux médias et e-journalisme.

The young journalists involved in print media, radio, TV and the regional press, based in Ifrane, Fez, Oujda, Nador, Marrakech, Agadir, Tetouan, Errachidia, Casablanca and Rabat, will benefit from this training, which will be led by Rachid Jankari journalist, a journalist and consultant in training on new media and e-journalism.

Pour les journalistes intéressés, le blog www.ejournalisme.com est mis à leur disposition.

For Journalists, the blog www.ejournalisme.com is available to them to download kits training and practical work of various workshops.. Il leur permettra, par ailleurs, de télécharger les kits de formation ainsi que les travaux pratiques de différents ateliers.

Ledit projet prévoit, également, « une session de formation des formateurs de trois jours pour le compte de 20 journalistes.

The draft provides, too, "a training session for trainers of three days on behalf of 20 journalists.

Son objectif est de constituer une pépinière de journalistes en mesure de dupliquer cette expérience dans leur centres de travail », a dit M. Jankari.

Its goal is to build a nursery journalists able to duplicate that experience in their work centres, "said Jankari.

Le développement des médias et du journalisme au Maroc est tributaire de l’appropriation des technologies de l’information, un facteur déterminant pour un meilleur accès à l’information et un vecteur accélérateur de diffusion de l’information.

The development of media and journalism in Morocco is dependent on the ownership of information technology, a critical factor for better access to information and a vehicle accelerator dissemination of information.

M. Jankari a conclu que «nous avons privilégié une approche de proximité dans la mise en œuvre de ce programme de formation continue dans la mesure où ce sont dix villes qui sont concernées par ces formations avec un traitement spécial pour la presse régionale ».

Mr. Jankari concluded that "we have emphasized a local approach in the implementation of this training program continues insofar as they are ten cities that are affected by these formations with special treatment for the regional press."

Pour plus d’information, prière de consulter www.ejournalisme.com

For more information, please consult www.ejournalisme.com

Contact presse : Press contact:

Rachid Jankari 

212 22 450 457 

212 61 14 68 51 

rachid@jankari.org

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Air Arabia Moroccan hub - update


Following on from our earlier story, Merième Addou, AfricaNews reporter in Rabat, reports on the detail of the Air Arabia moves into Morocco.

Air Arabia is set to launch a new hub in the Moroccan capital of Rabat that will allow it to carry passengers to North Africa, Middle East and Europe. It is a low-cost airline of the United Arab Emirates (UAE). It is expected to begin operations by the close of 2008 or early 2009 with a dedicated fleet of A320 aircraft.

A management agreement between Air Arabia and Regional Air Lines, the leading private carrier in Morocco has been signed.

Under the terms of the agreement, Air Arabia intends to assume management control of the Morocco-based carrier and it will apply its successful low cost business model to the management of Regional Air Lines. Also, it will jointly establish a new low-cost carrier that will provide affordable and convenient service to a broad range of international destinations.

With this new agreement, Morocco expects to welcome an estimated 10 million tourists a year by 2010 since the agreement provides the opportunity to reach into fast-growing markets in North Africa and across the Mediterranean into southern Europe.

Launched in 2003 and modeled after leading American and European low-cost carriers, Air Arabia is the first and largest low-cost carrier in the Middle East and North Africa and currently provides services to 41 destinations.

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Ramadan - careful how you drive!



Amira Al Hussaini, writing on Global Voices has collected the thoughts of Arab bloggers about the upcoming end to Ramadan. Included is an interesting blog entry on driving standards during Ramadan:

From Saudi Arabia, Stilettos in the Sand posts a similar complaint about driving. She explains:

Driving While Fasting… Dangerous. Driving in the Sandbox is scary under the best of conditions! To say that driving, here, is challenging is the understatement of the century if there ever was one - and you literally take your life in your hands the moment you step into a vehicle, whether as the driver or as a passenger. The chances of being in an accident are exponentially multiplied during Ramadan as “drivers, eager to reach their destination, throw all driving sense and caution to the wind.” Yep. ‘Tis true. Today's Saudi Gazette has an article that says, “The standards of driving are known to be erratic in the country and it only gets worse in the holy month of Ramadan.”


Read Amira Al Hussaini's article here: Arabeyes: Ramadan Thoughts


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Tuesday, September 16, 2008

The festival of Madih and Samaa in Fez




The festival of Madih and Samaa September 29 to October 1 in Fez

Madih style songs are eulogies to the Prophet Mohamed and in Samaa’ are spiritual poems.

La ville de Fès abritera du 29 Septembre au 1er Octobre le festival du Madih et Samaa, organisé sous le thème "Madih et Samaa, science, art et éducation", à l'initiative de la commune urbaine de Fès.

The city of Fez house of 29 September to 1 October festival Madih and Samaa, held under the theme "Madih and Samaa, science, art and education" at the initiative of the municipality of Fez.

Cette rencontre culturelle et artistique annuelle verra la participation de troupes spirituelles et musicales de plusieurs villes du Maroc, du monde arabe ; notamment du Liban, de la Tunisie, de la Libye, du Pakistan, de la Palestine et du Sénégal.

This cultural and artistic encounter is held annually and will involve the spiritual music of several cities in Morocco, the Arab world, including Lebanon, Tunisia, Libya, Pakistan, Palestine and Senegal.

(Photo credit: Sandy McCutcheon)

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Teaching English or evangelising in Morocco?


Guest Opinion from Mourad D, in Fez, Morocco.

Evangelising via English

Morocco has had a long history of religious tolerance and is unique in the Islamic world for its protection of religious minorities including its Jewish citizens. However there are laws in place protecting Moroccans from Christian evangelists hell-bent on converting (saving?) Muslims.

Over the years evangelists have tried all kinds of ways of getting into Morocco to "spread the word". Some methods have been plain stupid (smuggling bibles in the door panels of cars) and others, like setting up business fronts, quite sophisticated. In Fez, we have even seen houses purchased in order to set up prayer meetings.

Recently I came across the story of Jennifer Beck who spent five weeks in Morocco this summer traveling and teaching high school English. Now had this been all she was doing it would have been fine. And if she talked to people about her faith in her own time it would not be a problem. However, Jennifer returned home and talked to the University website; Whitworthian and what emerges is a disturbing picture

According to Ms Beck, she chose a Christian organisation called TeachOverseas as her program because it offered her an opportunity to teach in Africa during the summer months.

“I wanted to go through a Christian organization, but not one that was all about door-to-door evangelism. I liked that they chose to go out and represent Christ through teaching,” Beck said. “The organization works with countries that are ‘unreached’ groups where Christianity isn’t a part of the culture.”

Before leaving for Morocco, Beck met up with her three other female teaching teammates in Pasadena, Calif. There, they were taught cultural norms, taught how to teach English and make lesson plans. Even over a week of training, Beck said she was unsure of what Moroccan culture would be like.

One thing that continually surprised and confused Beck was how to interact with people of the opposite sex in Morocco’s predominantly male-dominated culture. The differences were compounded with the problem of combating the widely held belief in Morocco that U.S. women were promiscuous.

“In public, if a man says anything to a woman, a woman cannot reply or else it is seen as a sexual advance and for us, it was really odd to adjust to this,” Beck said. “We would be followed or stared at for very long periods of time.”As a resident of the Open Door theme house, Beck is no stranger to the concept of hospitality.

The members of the Open Door theme house make it their goal to keep their home available as a refuge for Whitworth students. At any time, students are encouraged to come over for a place to relax, do homework and fellowship together.

The theme house has a prayer room, where anyone can come and pray in a quiet location out of residence halls. Additionally, three nights a week, students can sign up to come over for free home-cooked meals.

The Moroccan locals also used food as a means of ministering to Beck and her fellow U.S. teachers. The school maids often invited the teaching team to their homes to learn how to prepare Moroccan food.

So what is this English Language teaching organisation?



According to their website:

TeachOverseas is a unique interdenominational ministry that offers you the wisdom of experience with a cutting edge sensibility. Since 1981, we have transformed lives in a dozen different countries through hundreds of summer and year-long programs teaching conversational English.

Each year, we train and send hundreds of Christians to teach English, Business and other subjects in: China, Czech Republic, Hungary, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Morocco, Russia, Slovakia, Ukraine and Vietnam. To date, over 100,000 students around the world have benefited from our teachers' commitment to excellent teaching and Christ-like service. We are an openly Christian organization and have developed an excellent reputation with national governments and local school administrations.

Teaching English is perhaps the best overseas opportunity for Christians. It deals with people face to face; leads to discussions that point to truth; and is needed everywhere in the world. — Ralph Winter

Teaching English as community service is a very worthwhile vocation, but using teaching of English as a way of evangelising is at best dubious, at worst subversive. It is hard to find anyone in the Moroccan Government who is aware of this program's Christian purpose. Christians are very welcome in Morocco - Evangelists not.


Here is a list of earlier stories on evangelical work in Morocco;

German Evangelist Flees

Evangelists Target Morocco

Smuggling Bibles

New Christian Crusade in Morocco


France's supreme court outlaws veil for Muslim women



France's supreme court upheld a decree that refused citizenship to a Muslim woman from Morocco, ruling that she had failed to assimilate French culture. It was ruled that her radical practice of Islam is incompatible with French values.

On June 27, 2008, the Council of State (Conseil d’Etat), the French Supreme Administrative Court, upheld a Prime Minister’s decree refusing citizenship to a Moroccan woman who was married to a French national and had two French children. The Council’s decision was based on the grounds that the woman lacked assimilation to French society because of her radical practice of religion, deemed incompatible with the essential values of the French community, in particular equality of the genders. These findings were supported by elements in the court file that the Moroccan woman was a Salafist Muslim and wore the Burqa.

Citizenship is not a guaranteed right for foreign spouses under French law and the authorities can deny it under the control of administrative courts for reasons of lack of assimilation. However, this does not mean that the State can discriminate and deny citizenship because of the practice of a religion. In this case, the Council of State did not base its decision on motives of public order, such as membership in extremist groups like it has done in the past, or because of problems of identification because the Burqa covered the woman’s whole face, but has ruled for the first time on the basis of the domestic practice of a religion, thereby entering the sphere of private life and beliefs. Such a decision contravenes international human rights standards.

This is a potentially dangerous trend which could lead to further discriminatory evaluations in the area of private religious practice. However, the case law of the Council of State has not followed such a trend in the past. On the contrary, for years it has played a neutral role concerning the wearing of the Muslim veil.

This decision must be understood in the context of French history, where longstanding conflicts have opposed the partisans of moderate secularism and those who wanted to eradicate the manifestation of religious beliefs from the public place under a radical interpretation—or extrapolation—of secularism.

The same argument—prevention of proselytizing—used by these radicals to claim the prohibition of the clerical robe during the debates for the vote of the 1905 law on separation of Churches and State has been used to enact the 2004 law prohibiting wearing conspicuous religious signs in public schools. This latter law was passed in order to reverse the jurisprudence of the Council of State, which used to be neutral and respectful of international human rights norms by defining secularism as neutrality of teachers and programs along with freedom of conscience of the pupils, including their right to express their religious beliefs.


After the vote of the 2004 law, the Council of State’s case law has been totally re-oriented, considering prohibitions against "the insignias and attire, including the Islamic veil, the Jewish kippa, or big crosses, the wearing of which by itself expresses conspicuously a religious adherence." With these grounds, it has upheld expulsions from public schools, sanctioning wearing any version of the Islamic veil and the Sikh Keshi (under turban).

Certainly, the law on religious insignias violates international human rights norms. The United Nations Human Rights Committee, as part of its periodic review of the Member States compliance with the International Covenant on Civil and Political Rights has excoriated the law in its Concluding Observations of July 22, 2008 by finding that "respect for a public culture of secularism would not seem to require forbidding wearing such common religious symbols [as] a skullcap or kippa [or] a headscarf or hijab." The Human Rights Committee recommended that France review its law, which infringes on Article 18 of the Covenant.

The Council of State’s jurisprudence has followed a similar trend concerning accession to citizenship. Under laws passed in 2003 and 2006 promoting "selected immigration," the construction of "lack of assimilation" has been extended to include the June 27, 2008 decision, allowing assessment by authorities and Courts of religious practices to determine if they conflict with French Republic values. Not to mention the fact that the finding by the Council of State that Salafism is a "radical practice" of Islam amounts to deciding an internal conflict within Islamology.

Such an evaluation contravenes the European Court of Human Rights case law as well as international human rights standards. The European Human Rights Court has consistently ruled that the States have a duty of neutrality and impartiality and that "the right to freedom of religion as guaranteed under the Convention excludes any discretion on the part of the State to determine whether religious beliefs or the means used to express such beliefs are legitimate."

It remains to be seen to see if an application is filed with the Human Rights Court to challenge the decision of the Council of State and, if so, what the outcome will be.

The author of the article, Patricia Duval, is a contributor to the Cutting Edge News and a member of the Paris Bar.

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Air Arabia to launch Moroccan hub.



Sharjah-based low cost carrier Air Arabia’s launch of a hub in Morocco with a dedicated fleet of A320s is “very imminent”, according to the airline’s chief executive officer.
“We don’t have a firm date yet, but it is likely to be at the end of this year or early 2009,” Adel Ali said on Sunday.

Air Arabia announced, at the end of last year, that it would establish a hub in Morocco’s capital Rabat, providing a platform to reach Europe, Africa and those parts of the Middle East beyond it’s reach in Sharjah. Air Arabia operates 15 Airbus A320 with 49 on order.

Ali said four were being delivered per year but it was likely to place an order for more A320s for the Morocco hub, which will require it’s own fleet and aircraft.

He said Air Arabia would also look at leasing planes to fill any gap or delays of delivery.“We’ll need more aircraft for Morocco and we’ll stick with the A320s as we’re happy with them.” “It’s always a good option to have a mix of leasing or purchasing.”

The airline has already signed a management agreement of Morocco’s leading private carrier Regional Air Lines, as part of its hub plans. While Ali recognised that high oil prices had put pressure on airlines worldwide, he said Middle East airlines had benefited from the economic boom that came with high oil prices.

Despite a “challenging year” for the airline with fuel prices and the economic downturn, Ali said the carrier expected “reasonably good profits” and it’s expansion plans and aircraft orders were on track.

“While oil does put pressure on us, Air Arabia has a strong balance sheet,” Ali said.“Middle Eastern economies are good and people are still traveling in this region.”He denied concern regarding the competition posed by low cost carrier FlyDubai.

“One more airline will bring more business. There are already ten – they’ll be eleven. They have to work hard as well.” Air Arabia established Nepal as its second hub in January with majority-owned Nepalese unit FlyYeti.com.

However, services ceased due to a change of government and there is no date set for the services to resume.

“The challenge was a change of administration. We weren’t sure of the new policies. We just want to make sure it’s all addressed before we go back in there,” added Ali.

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