Friday, September 30, 2011

Education for the Girls of the High Atlas in Morocco



An initiative to provide for the education of a group of young girls from remote villages in the High Atlas has made an impact in ways that were not necessarily anticipated, writes Derek Workman.

In 2006, Education For All was officially recognised as a Moroccan NGO and began to raise funds in earnest for their first boarding house in Asni, in the foothills of the High Atlas Mountains, forty-five kilometres from Marrakech.

The idea was that the organisation would provide for the educational needs of a number of young girls from the poorest families from some of the remotest villages in the High Atlas, for the three years required to complete their secondary education. An apparently modest undertaking, but one that would affect the lives of an initial group of twelve girls, increasing by the same number each year, in ways that may not have been considered.

A residence for the girls, Dar Asni, and the houses that were to follow, are all within a couple of minutes’ walk of schools, and take into account an anomaly of the Moroccan way of educational life for girls. Many boys will cycle to school and take their lunch with them. Sometimes a single class will be held in the morning and then another in the afternoon. Boys will simply stay at the school, but it’s considered unsafe for girls to do that, so they are expected to return home, which is impossible if they live far away. Often they’ve walked considerable distances, and on occasions when time-tabling is particularly erratic they’ll miss a day’s schooling completely. But the girls at the EFA houses can simply walk across the road.


In the beginning....

It’s very easy to make a fleeting comment about someone starting school in a new town, but behind that simple statement is a world of cultural and emotional complexity.

Think of yourself as the father of a young girl not yet even into her teens, and a group of foreigners come along to tell you that you should send her to a private boarding-house miles from home. “It’s for her benefit,” they say, but you possibly aren’t too well educated yourself, and the idea of putting your daughter into the hands of foreigners who aren’t part of your culture or religious beliefs might be something you are very wary of. Wouldn’t you rather take the counsel of someone of your own faith, a father himself and, even if not a direct friend, someone who has earned the respect of those who know him well?


Hajj Maurice, a small man with a large moustache and a winning smile, is well known and highly respected throughout the villages of the High Atlas Mountains, not just because he has made the pilgrimage to Mecca, which entitles him to the honorific ‘Hajj’, but for the work he has done as a mainstay of the Association Bassins d’Imlil. As the father of two daughters, he was aware of the importance of education for young women, especially following the sad loss of his eldest, who died of leukaemia while in her early twenties. For weeks Hajj Maurice walked the mountains, talking to fathers and families, trying to convince them that allowing these young girls to live at Dar Asni while continuing their education was not only the best thing for them as individuals, but also for their families, their future children and their communities. Some families accepted with alacrity; the only thing that had stopped them doing it in the first place was that they simply had no money. But others were less convinced, and despite all his wiles and arguments, Hajj Maurice sometimes had to leave without even the concession of “we’ll think about it.”

Now put yourself in the place of an eleven year-old girl, eager for new sights, friends and experiences, despite never having been outside the confines of your village. You speak only Berber, a language so different from the national language of Arabic in both its spoken and written form that you may as well be going to another country to study, not a village thirty kilometres away, because Arabic is the language all your classes will be in. And then imagine that for the first time in your life you will have your own bed to sleep in, your own cupboard to put your clothes in and a washing machine to wash them – no more going down to the river to pound them on rocks. The boarding house might seem like a palace, but your new life still takes some getting used to!

Karima Targaoui is Education For All’s longest serving volunteer, spending over a year with the girls before returning to her home in Vienne, near Lyon in France. She still works with EFA as the coordinator of volunteers.

“I began volunteering with EFA on November 2009. (It seems like it was yesterday!) When I arrived in Dar Asni I was surprised; the house is so pretty and the organisation directed by Latifa (the house mother) is really good. Everyone was so nice. A week later is was hard to leave them and go to Talat N’Yacoub.

"The first days were really hard. I was in the middle of nowhere, the girls didn’t know each other yet, EFA wasn’t well-known by the locals so they were suspicious, and the house wasn’t started. I really felt like I couldn’t do it. But I began to build a relationship with the girls and I realized how much they needed somebody to help them. That motivates me to succeed. Then Khadija, the gorgeous house-mother arrived, and I felt immediately comfortable with her. Together we did a lot of work; first with the girls, who now feel like sisters and have changed in many ways; secondly in the house, which became really nice and warm; and finally with the community around Talat N’Yacoub, who know us, respect us, encourage us and help us with our project. And all this with the help of the committee, of course, who is always present and helpful despite the distance. And I thank them for this and for the trust they gave me.


"I’m really proud to be a part of this project when I see how the girls have evolved, " says Targaoui.
"They didn’t only improve their marks at school, they became more open-minded, independent and have a better understanding of life. They are conscious that education is the key to their individual and collective future. They are becoming real women, the women who will change Morocco.”

Story and photographs by Derek Workman.

This is an extract from A Different Life, the story of Education For All. You can learn more here. 

Derek Workman is an English journalist living in Valencia City, Spain. To read more of his stories on Spain, visit SpainUncovered. Articles and books can also be found at DigitalPaparazzi. 


SHARE THIS!


If You Love Sufi Music... check this out


For those lucky enough to be able to tune in to BBC 3 this Sunday at 2200, Lucy Duran presents Sufi music from around the world recorded at the recent Transcender Festival at the Barbican in London. 

"The Ecstatic Journey: Music from around the Sufi world" was one evening gathering together classical traditions, ascetic mediations and exultant celebrations into a single, kaleidoscopic concert showcasing the Sufi songs of Morocco, Pakistan, India and Indonesia.


Of special interest will be performances by a group who made a big impression at the Fez Festival of World Sacred Music, last year. Ensemble Syubbanul Akhyar (pictured above) — will be heard playing a number of pieces. with performers: Nanang Kurnia Yasin (singer) Fuad Hasyim Sakiran (tamborine) Ahmad Ihfadz Zainie (dumbuk) Mursidi Zulkarnain Tohir (oud) Engkin Zainal Mutaqin (suling flute) Heru Firmansyah (hajir) Chaerul Muhammad Yusup (violin) Abdul Wahid Mohamad Yusuf (marawis).


Also appearing on the programme will be Sain Zahoor (lead Vocals, ektara Lute & ankle percussion) (pictured above), Riyasat Ali (chimta) Ranhja (tabla, vocals) Muhammad Ijaz (flute) Shaukat Ali (dholak, vocals) Muhammad Mushtaq (harmonium, vocals)

For full details of what is on offer check out BBC 3


Thursday, September 29, 2011

Tissa Horse Festival ~ Sneak Preview


Tomorrow (Friday) sees the start of the Tissa Horse Festival. Thanks to our colleague, the photographer Gerard Chemit, we are able to bring you a preview of the preparations in Tissa.

All Photos; Gerard Chemit 


The View from Fez still has a couple of seats available to go from Fez to the festival on Saturday, leaving at around 7 and returning after 5pm.. Please email us at theviewfromfez@gmail.com if you would like a ride to Tissa and back.

SEE OUR FULL COVERAGE OF THE TISSA HORSE FESTIVAL HERE


SHARE THIS!

Dance on Show in Fez



The 5th International Fes Dance Festival offers a wide range of styles from oriental to ballet; from contemporary to tango. 



Running from October 18-22 at the Al Houria Complex in Fez's Ville Nouvelle, the festival will feature the Kore Company from Hungary, Camy Dance from Morocco, Oeil Persan Company from France/Iran, Magali Lesueur and more.

The festival has been organised by Babylon Cult Art and the provisional program is:

Tuesday October 18 at 7pm

Souffles - With Bated Breath by the Kore Company (Hungary).

Wednesday October 19 at 7pm

Zan - Woman by Rana Gorgani, Oeil Persan Company (France/Iran).

Thursday October 20 at 7pm

Oriental Ballard by the Ruh Dance Company (Belgium).

Friday October 21 at 7pm 

Wislan by Camy Dance (Morocco).

Saturday October 22 at 10am

Panel discussion on The Elegance of the Body, moderated by Driss Katir and including Hassan Mnii, Ahmed Massaia , Abderrahmane Tankoul (Morocco), Rana Gorgani (Iran), Annick Bailleul ( Belgium) Magali Lesueur (France) and Vida Vrag (Hungary).

Saturday October 22 at 7pm 

Addict by Magali Lesueur Company.

More information: Commune de Fes

French President Nicolas Sarkozy in Morocco



French President Nicolas Sarkozy arrives in Tangier today (Thursday) to be present at the inauguration of work on Africa’s first high-speed rail line. His prescence is intended to highlight France’s role in delivering the project.

An agreement on the construction and operation of a 350-kilometer (219-mile) high-speed rail line linking Tangiers and Casablanca via the capital Rabat was signed during Sarkozy’s 2007 visit to Morocco. He vowed then that he would return to the country to help lay down the first stone when building work began.

Rabat says it expects the first leg of the rail-line to cost three billion euros ($4.1 billion), for which France has extended a 920 million euro loan.

The Tangiers-Casablanca line, scheduled to enter service in 2015, will eventually be extended to Marrakesh and Agadir, Moroccan officials have said.

The balance of the rail project is being funded largely by Arab states, including Saudi Arabia, the United Arab Emirates and Kuwait. According to Karim Tazi, a sociologist, the rest of the borrowed money will have to be paid for by future generations.

Some analysts question whether or not it is really worth Morocco going into further debt in order to reduce the train time between Tangiers to Casablanca from five hours, to two hours and 10 minutes.

In December, the French group Alstom inked a 400 million euro deal to provide Morocco with 14 high speed trains, a contract seen as a boost for the company after it was snubbed by Eurostar, which had elected to buy trains from Germany’s Siemens.

France is Morocco’s top trading partner, absorbing 25 percent of exports.

Sarkozy, in his scheduled four-hour trip to the North African kingdom, also plans to meet King Mohammed VI.

The Fes Festival of World Sacred Music 2012


The Fes Festival of World Sacred Music is one of the signature events of the Spirit of Fes Foundation. The aim of this Festival is to harness the arts and spirituality in the service of human and social development, and the relationship between peoples and cultures.



The 18th Festival takes place from 8-16 June 2012 with the theme ‘Re-enchanting the World’ and pays special tribute to the great Persian poet, Omar Khayyam.

The Fes Festival explores the vast repertoire of music and rhythms created across the globe since the dawn of time.

Le Festival de Fès des Musiques Sacrées du Monde est l'un des principaux événements de la Fondation Esprit de Fès. Il s'inscrit dans sa vocation de mettre les arts et les spiritualités au service du développement humain et sociétal et du rapprochement entre les peuples et les cultures.

La 18éme édition du festival qui se tiendra du 8 au 16 juin 2012 aura pour Thématique «Réenchanter le Monde » avec un Hommage particulier au grand poète perse « Omar Khayyam ».

Le Festival de Fès parcourt les vastes espaces des chants et des rythmes que les cultures du monde ont crée depuis l’aube des temps.

El Festival de Fez de Músicas Sacras del Mundo constituye el evento más destacado de la Fundación Esprit de Fès. Se inserta en su vocación de poner las artes y las espiritualidades al servicio del desarrollo humano y de la sociedad de un lado y de acercar los pueblos y las culturas del otro.

La 18ª edición del festival se celebrará entre el 8 y el 16 de junio de 2012 bajo el tema “Reencantar el Mundo” y será consagrada a rendir homenaje al gran poeta persa “Omar Khayyam”.

El Festival de Fez recorre los vastos espacios de cantos y ritmos que las culturas del mundo han creado desde los tiempo más remotos de la humanidad.

Join The View from Fez at the Tissa Horse Festival !


This Saturday, The View from Fez team are heading to the Tissa Horse Festival. We have four places available, leaving at 7am from Fez, spending the day in Tissa and returning from Tissa around 5 pm.

If you would like to join us, please email: theviewfromfez@gmail.com for all the details.


Wednesday, September 28, 2011

The Tissa Horse Festival - Latest Update


The View from Fez team are in debt to Michele of the travel company Yomikha Morocco who sent someone to Tissa to check. The latest news is that the first day of the festival is this Friday - September 30th. The festival (we are told) is now only two days and Saturday October 1 is the final day.

Photo: Gerard Chemit
 While this gives people in the local area plenty of time to make new plans, it is less good news for those coming from America, Europe, India and Australia. The View from Fez has had a flood of emails from both tourists and travel writers who have bookings for flights, internal transport and hotels or riads, based on the original dates.

While not everyone is happy with this disruption, at least one traveller who can not change flights quipped, "Well, I suppose I will just have to have a long weekend in Fez, and that can't be bad."

The View from Fez will attend the horse festival this Saturday, and report back for those unable to make it.

Our thanks to Michele for the update.


Important Breakthrough for Moroccan Bird Life


A workshop to develop a roadmap for the transition of BirdLife engagement in Morocco from a country programme to the typical NGO representation was held at the Hotel Ibis in Rabat over the last few days. The outcomes amount to good news for those working preserve bird life in the region.

The BirdLife Partnership has been active in Morocco for more than 15 years through a Country Programme managed initially by BirdLife International, then by RSPB, and later by SEO/BirdLife, with the engagement of other BirdLife Supporting Partners and the BirdLife Africa Secretariat. This has always been in close cooperation with the Moroccan authorities, particularly the High Commission of Water and Forest and Fight against Desertification . In keeping with its vision for developing national capacity, BirdLife International has had a long standing desire for the transition of the representation of the Partnership in Morocco from a country programme to a national Moroccan NGO.

Various efforts have since taken place towards this goal, involving the Council for the Africa Partnership, SEO/BirdLife, RSPB and VBN and the BirdLife Africa Secretariat. These interested parties developed a project titled “Strengthening BirdLife in Morocco: Conservation strategy and NGO development”, through which a plan and set activities were started in 2010, with the aim of transforming BirdLife representation in Morocco to a national NGO by 2012.

“A strong foundation has been set in the transition of the representation of BirdLife in Morocco from a country programme to NGO “ remarked Fred Wouters, Director of VBN and member of the BirdLife Global Council who participated at a workshop to work out modalities for the collaboration between the BirdLife Morocco Programme and GREPOM. “The pace of transition now rests with GREPOM and the BirdLife Morocco programme, who must work with the BirdLife Africa Partnership and Secretariat to signal when they are ready to advance towards BirdLife affiliation”.

“We have already lost a lot of time and wasted efforts working separately in the conservation of biodiversity in Morocco” remarked Prof. Mohammed Dakki, President of GREPOM while accepting to the road map. “ By bringing together the capacities of GREPOM and the BirdLife Morocco Programme and the international support from BirdLife, we will achieve much more conservation impact for birds and people in Morocco”.

“This workshop can be likened to the start of a courtship leading to a marriage between GREPOM and the BirdLife Morocco Programme to become one member of the BirdLife family” remarked Julius Arinaitwe, who delivered the message to Prof. Mohammed Dakki. “The letter can be considered as the blessing from the parents for the courtship to begin, and we are all looking forward to the wedding, when a BirdLife Affiliate in Morocco will be recognized”.

A visibly elated Asuncion Riuz, Director of SEO/BirdLife could not hide her pleasure. “This is a very happy occasion for SEO/BirdLife, who under a mandate from BirdLife Global Council is responsible for the BirdLife programme in Morocco. For a long time, we have worked hard to get the local capacity in place to lead in the very important bird Conservation issues in Morocco. This workshop is a concrete step in realizing this dream. We will continue to work hard, together with other partners , to support this initiative as much as possible for however long it takes. ”

 Photograph of Owl on Mt Zerhoune by Jearld F Moldenhauer,
courtesy Dar Balmira Gallery, Gzira Fes Medina. (Click image to enlarge)

Several presentation helped to set the scene, with a key one by Dr Hazell Shokellu Thompson, Assistant Director in charge of Network and Capacity Development, who explained BirdLife International and the key criteria that have to be met by GREPOM to become a BirdLife Affiliate and advance within the BirdLife Partnership. Dr Imad Cherkaoui presented a draft roadmap that has three phases, the first one focused on collaboration between BirdLife Morocco Programme and GREPOM, the second looking at admission of GREPOM as the BirdLife Affiliate for Morocco and the Country programme acting as a Secretariat for GREPOM and the final stage with the Country Programme fully integrated within GREPOM. This is a process that will take some time, and good collaboration.

Morocco offers a tremendous diversity of habitats and climates which support a wide range of interesting species plants (almost 4000 recognised plants of which 17% are endemic), butterflies, amphibians reptiles (50% more than in the whole of Europe), mammals and, most notably, birds with 481 bird species.
Morocco harbours the last wild breeding colonies in the world of Geronticus eremita (CR), a formerly widespread species, and until recently, was a regular wintering site for small numbers of Numenius tenuirostris (CR). There are globally significant breeding and wintering populations of marmaronetta angustirostris (VU) and Falco naumanni (VU), and significant wintering populations of Lerus audonimii (CD).

Morocco is a bottleneck of a main migration route between Europe and Africa for tens of millions of western Palearctic migrants. Up to 200,000 raptors and 90,000 storks and Cranes have been recorded passing across the Straits of Gibraltar at Jbel Moussa in northern morocco. Most of the coastal wetlands and many of the inland waters are crucial resting and refueling stops, or overwintering sites, for water birds using the ‘Atlantic Coastal Flyway’ that descends the western seaboard of continental Europe and Africa from Norway to Senegal and beyond. A total of 46 Important Bird Areas (IBAs) is identified covering 30,338 km2, equivalent to 4.3% of the country’s land area.

Volubilis Visitor Centre ~ Progress at last?


The Visitor Centre at Volubilis seems to have been under construction for years. According to locals the problems centred around non-payment of contractors. However, now things appear to be back on track and the architects are happy with what they see.


The architects, Kilo, from Meknes, say that the project, set within the most visited archaeological site in the Kingdom of Morocco, seeks to enhance the historical and symbolic significance of this unique UNESCO World Heritage site. The site is an exceptionally well-preserved example of an ancient Roman colonial town and one of several antique sites in Morocco. Due to the lack of urban development in the immediate surroundings, the site today closely resembles what the Romans saw in their time. In order to highlight the dramatic visual impact of the antique ruins upon entry to the site, the volume of the museum is embedded into the hillside so that visitors do not initially perceive its presence.


The project is conceived as a narrow imprint on the perimeter of the ancient territory, eight meters wide by two hundred meters long. The building consists of a succession of wooden volumes along an extended retaining wall, simultaneously buried and suspended in relationship to the rolling landscape. The project behaves much like the ruins it houses, and the tectonics of its construction and the lifespan of its materials inherently propose a strategy for the building’s eventual disappearance.



Details:

Architects: Kilo Architectures
Location: Meknes, Morocco
Client: Ministère de la Culture
Structural Engineers: TESCO
Project Year: 2011
Project Area: 4,200 sqm
Photographs: Elio Germani, Luc Boegly

Morocco in the News ~ Press Round-up


A relatively quiet day in the media. The main focus of attention was ongoing reportage of the death of seven people during a disturbance at a football match in the deep south, the arrest of two men (one British, one Spanish) in possession of a huge amount of hashish and the return to the streets over the weekend of large numbers of protestors.

Sailing into Trouble

Moroccan law enforcement authorities announced the arrest of two foreign drug-traffickers, a Spaniard and a Briton, the Maghreb Arab Press News agency reported on Tuesday.

The operation was carried out when the two men were about to sail from the waters of Oued Laou (near the city of Tetouan in Northern Morocco) to Europe with one ton of cannabis resin stashed inside their yacht.

The two men, aged 50 and 33, were arrested by a patrol of Moroccan Royal Marines in charge of combating illegal emigration and international drug trafficking.

Ketama, in the Rif region, is the biggest area of cannabis production in Morocco. Since the early 1990s, Morocco has been making greater efforts and devoting significant resources to stop the spread of cannabis cultivation to other regions contiguous to Ketama.

And, in more drug news...


"Mad Danny" Arrested in Morocco

The story of the drug arrest was major news in Scotland as 66 year-old Daniel Healy – or ‘Mad Danny’ as he is known, comes from (Ardfern in Mid Argyll). Healy was arrested last week, as he went to drive across the border between Morocco and Sebta, the Spanish occupied city enclave.

Healy was travelling under the false name of John McLeish and was found by police to have 100kg of cannabis resin, said to be worth £500,000, hidden in the water tank of the campervan he was driving, protected in metal containers.

Since his arrest he has been held in the Moroccan prison of Tetouan.

Originally a Glaswegian, Healy has been a regular if erratic resident of Ardfern. When he arrived, he became an immediate local legend, turning up in the pub with a live parrot on his shoulder. His daughter, Siobhan Healy, a noted artist in glass blowing, a maker of quite breathtakingly beautiful objects, went to Ardfern Primary School.

According to reports in today’s press, he has told an acquaintance in Morocco – who says that Healy had no idea what was in his van – that he plans to plead guilty at his trial, which appears to be scheduled for Tuesday. This decision seems to rest upon questionable assurances he has been given that this plea will bring him no more than a year’s prison sentence.

The British Embassy and the Foreign Office say they are aware of his arrest.


Football Clashes Leave Seven Dead

Seven people were killed in a violent incident right after the end of a foot-ball game between Chabab Al-Mohammadia and local Mouloudia from the city of Dakhla in the Sahara.


Among those killed there were two policemen. Three people also died after being run over by four-wheel vehicles driven by people with criminal records, according to a statement carried by the Maghreb Press news agency.

The incident resulted also in damage to many local businesses and vehicles.

The clashes started when fans from both teams started attacking each other with stones, before they degenerated into deadly confrontations.

The local authorities have immediately opened an investigation into the causes of the confrontations and the instigators.

Anti-Corruption Demonstrators Return To Morocco's Streets

Thousands of protesters turned out in Casablanca on Sunday to demand deep political reform, unappeased by a recently-agreed package limiting the powers of King Mohammed VI.

Demonstrators responding to a call from the February 20 Movement filled the city's Al-Harti boulevard, with a crowd police estimated at 5,000 and organisers at 15,000.
The movement, which takes its name from its first day of protest, was inspired by the pro-democracy groups that have sprung up across the Arab world.



Participants held placards reading "Corruption is Wrecking Our Lives" and "More Social Justice".

About a thousand people turned out in Tangiers and in Marrakesh, with a similar number taking to the streets in Rabat, where many called for the release of rapper "Mouad Al-Haqed" who was arrested during a major protest in Casablanca in June.

Don't Miss Out On Rabat !

Online, The International Business Times devotes their travel section to Morocco’s "Overlooked Capital City - Rabat."

(Photo: Katy Dutile)

Morocco and Spain may be separated by just 13km at the Strait of Gibraltar, but tourists enter a completely new world when they set foot in the North African country.

Many tourists head straight for the markets of Marrakesh or Fez, but these destinations can be overbearing. There are tons of foreigners and you will face a constant bombardment of sellers barking "you, buy this!" For an introduction - or break - from the Moroccan hustle, try visiting the capital, Rabat.

After a day or two relaxing in Rabat and practicing your bargaining skills, you'll be refreshed and ready to head back out and see all that Morocco has to offer.

It may seem unusual that the capital is often overlooked by tourists. However, it's mainly a city of governmental officials and foreign embassies. So, if you lose your passport, you'll be headed to Rabat as well!

The article goes on to highlight some of the "must-see" sights such as one of our favourites, the Kasbah des Oudaias.

Take out your camera, because the neighborhood of Kasbah des Oudaias will make you trigger happy. Enter through the enormous Almohad gate of Bab Oudaia, built in 1195, to a mainly residential community perfect for a stroll. Several "guides" will approach you and offer their services or say the neighborhood is closed. Just ignore them, as a guide isn't needed. Plus, there's no place better in Rabat to wander aimlessly. The neighborhood is reminiscent of Santorini, Greece, with blue accented whitewashed homes lining the cobblestone streets.

After finding your way through the maze of homes, there are spectacular views of the Atlantic Ocean and surfers catching a break.The beach is packed with hundreds of locals enjoying the ocean - but don't wear a bikini. If you do, you'll find Morocco is the land of a hundred stares. Like anyplace in Morocco, wear what the locals' wear (which often means wading in the water in your street clothes).

Check out the Kasbah Mosque, Andalucian Gardens, and cafes overlooking the ocean to make a great afternoon in Rabat.

You can read the full story here: Morocco’s Overlooked Capital City


The "mystical magic" of Morocco
 
Further afield, and on a lighter note The Australian newspaper has a feature (lifted straight from Lonely Planet) on the joys of Marrakech. Here is an excerpt.


Ali Ben Youssef Medersa

Insiders say Marrakesh's palaces can't compare with its wonders wrought for the glory of God. While local mosques and zaouias (saint shrines) are closed to non-Muslims, you can see what the insiders mean at this medersa (Koranic school). Founded in the 14th century, the Ali ben Youssef Medersa was once the largest in North Africa and is one of the most splendid. Look up in the entry hall to admire intricately carved cedar cupolas and mashrabiyya (wooden-lattice screen) balconies. To add an aah to that ooh, enter the medersa's courtyard. The arcaded cloisters are Hispano-Moresque wonders of five-colour, high-lustre zellij (mosaic) and ingenious Iraqi-style Kufic stucco, with letters intertwined in leaves and knots.

Facing stiff competition from medersas in Fez, the school closed in 1962. But in its heyday, up to 900 students lived in the 130 dorm rooms here and shared one bathroom. Upstairs, a 3sq m dorm room shows how students lived, with a sleeping mat, writing implements, a Koran bookstand and a hotplate.

You can read the full story in the Australian here: The mystical magic of Morocco

To Get You Thinking...

Finally - some words of wisdom delivered by the great Moroccan writer, Tahar Ben Jalloun, at the International Literature Festival in Berlin. This is what literature does—allows us to see what we otherwise wouldn’t see. And this is also why we need it. There are voices that would treat honest literature as “corrupt tendencies,” but “we need the novel,” said Ben Jalloun, “not only to explain the world to us, but also to accompany our historical times.” In other words, right now, “we must write more than ever…beautifully, powerfully, even if humankind increasingly wallows in a pseudo-reality, in mediocrity, and in ugliness.” Because despite all this, he said, literature and humankind can astonish and move us; “this is what happened in the Arab Spring.” Tahar Ben Jelloun’s words reminded me of those of Vladimir Nabakov: “The pages are still blank, but there is a miraculous feeling of the words being there, written in invisible ink and clamoring to become visible.”

Read more: Translating the Invisible

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Confusion Over Tissa Horse Festival!



Tissa Horse Festival ~ October 08, 2011 (All Day) -"Every October the quiet town of Tissa, near Fez, becomes the stage for one of the most loved events in Morocco. A medieval celebration of horsemanship, the Horse Festival attracts hundreds of owners, breeders and riders". - Press Release

The press release quoted above may well be wrong. The Tissa Horse Festival (see our story here) attracts people from many countries but this evening the event is mired in confusion. The official sites still all advertise the festival as taking place between the 8th and 11th of October - the traditional time for the Festival. However, earlier this week rumours started that (for some reason) the festival was being moved to an earlier date. One story had it that it would start on Thursday September 29th. Another "credible source" maintained that the Festival started on Saturday October 1.

The View from Fez is on the case and can report that our spies in Tissa tell us that a huge marquee is being erected and the contractors doing the work report that it is in preparation for Saturday. Tomorrow (Wednesday) is the normal souq day for Tissa and we have a contact travelling to Tissa to ascertain the real situation.


It may well be that the Festival dates have been changed, but we would certainly like to know who changed them and why there has been no official announcement. If any of our readers have further informaton, we would like to hear from you.

Photographs by Gerard Chemit

Monday, September 26, 2011

Great Job at a Top Fez Riad



Riad Laaroussa, one of the top guest houses located in the Medina of Fez, is looking for an experienced waitresses or waiter who is a fluent English speaker. If you are interested, send you resume to Fred Sola: solafred@gmail.com


Riad Laaroussa (maison d’hôtes dans la médina de Fès) cherche une ou un serveur expérimenté parlant l’anglais couramment - Envoyer votre CV a solafred@gmail.com

How to Spend 24 Hours in Fez


Some great advice from Lonely Planet on how to spend your time in the Fez Medina if you are only able to spend one day here.


Yes, it’s almost criminal to think of spending just one day in this wonderful Moroccan town, but if that’s all you’ve got to work with, we can help. Taken from the Fez Encounter guide, our authors have mapped out an itinerary that will squeeze every last sun-drenched drop out of a day in Fès.

Enter the medina through Bab Bou Jeloud and wander down Talaa Kebira, stopping to visit the Bou Inania Medersa. To get into the medina swing of things, stop for a caffeine fix on the terrace at Café Clock, located opposite the medersa. Continue down the slope, investigating the shops, souks and street stands along the way.

Passing through Chrabliyine, turn right into Derb Fakharine to discover the Henna Souk and Nejjarine Sq, home to the Nejjarine Wood Museum. Then through Bab Moulay Idriss to the Moulay Idriss Zawiya and on to the kissariat (covered markets) near the Kairaouine Mosque & University. Returning to Talaa Kebira, veer left (north) into Derb Rhabt l’Qaïs, through the Blida neighbourhood and then onto the Chouwara Tanneries. From here, make your way to Seffarine Sq and celebrate a great morning’s sightseeing over a mint tea or fresh juice at Cremerie la Place.

After your morning exploring the length of Talaa Kebira, catch a taxi from Bab R’cif to Batha, where you should note the location of the Batha Museum for an after-lunch visit. Lunch is first though – try Thami’s, a street café on Derb Serrajine. After lunch make your way back to the museum and enjoy viewing its collection before catching another taxi, this time to the Hotel Les Merinides to enjoy a drink on the terrace while watching the spectacle of the sun setting over the medina.

Later in the evening, have a sumptuous Moroccan meal and enjoy listening to live music at La Maison Bleue or Riad Fes.

Fez Photo of the Day


Photograph by Jearld F Moldenhauer, courtesy Dar Balmira Gallery, Gzira Fes Medina. (Click image to enlarge)

Men with mules

Cleaning Up Morocco ~ Village by Village


Today's guest contributor on The View from Fez is freelance journalist, Derek Workman. He gets to grips with an environmental issue in a small village in the Atlas Mountains. Rubbish disposal is a problem that many parts of Morocco are grappling with. Derek's story shows that with hard work and motivation, progress can be made.



“He who has health has hope, and he who has hope has everything.” Anon.

The roads that lead to Imlil
Unlike Rome, all roads don’t lead to Imlil. In fact, once you get there, all you can do is come back. To the passing eye it might look like just any other slightly ramshackle Moroccan village – which just goes to show how wrong the passing eye can be.

Imlil is 66 kilometres south of Marrakech in the Atlas Mountains. Perched on a peak above the village, with the stunning Jbel Toubkal as a backdrop, the Kasbah du Toubkal looks like yet another chi-chi hotel. It’s gorgeous, of that there’s no doubt, but the five percent it adds to the bill of everyone who stays there has created a fund to enhance the lives of every single person in the Imlil valley and for kilometres beyond – the Association Bassins d’Imlil.

Ask Hajj Maurice, who has been involved with the Association since day one, what he thinks the most important projects the Association has been involved in are and he will reply, almost without pause for breath, the rubbish collection service and the ambulances.

Getting my hands dirty

Omar Auuzal picks me up in his wagon at the bridge in Imlil for our day out collecting rubbish in the neighbouring villages. Mohamed Bokare, the second collector in the team, hangs onto his platform at the rear of the truck as we set off for our first stop, Tamatert.

We park at the side of the road and scramble down a rocky path into the village, armed with a couple of large blue nylon sacks. The tiny alleyways are steep and uneven, and the routine is to walk to the bottom of the village, turn around and clamber back up, picking up the rubbish as you go. This makes perfect sense; why start at the top and have to lug a heavy bag all the way back up the hill again to the truck? And it’s not just the ‘streets’ we clean, but also the tiny cultivated terraces at the sides; everything collected and dropped into nylon bags.

For a couple of hours we traipse the village collecting the rubbish; worn-out trainers, odd socks, tattered plastic bags, weathered cardboard boxes; even the donkey dung heap gets picked over for wind-blown waste. There’s nothing much different to the basic detritus of anywhere in the world, but the age of double- and triple-wrapped everything hasn’t arrived here yet, and despite the simplicity of the collection process, there’s probably less litter here than you’d see in plenty of European villages. It’s slow and laborious, but it works.

For the next part of the route we’ll be tackling a new destination on Omar and Mohamed’s collection run, and one infinitely more nerve-wracking for me.

"to call it a 'road'....
Only a few weeks earlier a new road had been completed up to Arghen, a village on the opposite side of the valley to Tamatert, which until then had no access other than centuries-old mule tracks. To call it a ‘road’ is euphemistic at best; it’s simply a one-vehicle-width track, bulldozed in a series of tight zigzags. This is definitely a road where you don’t want to meet someone coming the other way.

In first gear Omar hauls the truck up the mountainside, following the tracks of other vehicles that have compacted the rough stone into something vaguely resembling a surface. Some of the bends are so tight that even our short wagon has to make three-point turns, which Omar manages with a lot more confidence than I feel. When we arrive at Arghen, he executes a nerve-wracking series of turns to face downhill. The road is little more than a metre wider than the wagon is long, with a terrifying tumble down the mountainside as reward for the slightest misjudgement. As he shuffles the vehicle around and the rear wheels begin to spin and dig holes in the loose surface. I cover my nervousness with the pretence of taking photos.

Is this the wildest rubbish collection on the planet?
We park on a cut-away above the village and meet Hassan Aitjetame, a member of the Arghen Village Association (known as Tagmatte, The Family), and who is responsible for rubbish collection. I watch the clouds come rolling down from Jbel Toubkal, bringing the rain with them. It’s cold and wet, and I’ve forgotten to bring a jacket; this is going to be an uncomfortable experience. Fortunately, the rains drift on down the valley, leaving only a light surface mud for us to slip around in, and soggy waste for us to pick up.

Hour after hour of rubbish collection
The routine is the same as in Tamatert, walking the village street by street, collecting discarded rubbish as we go along, but Arghen is much steeper than Tamatert, and at some points we are scrambling over scree that moves unsettlingly below my feet. Omar, Mohamed and Hassan, and the couple of young boys who have joined in the fun, walk this sort of ground on a daily basis so are used to it, and politely overlook my staggering. It occurs to me that refuse collectors from European countries who belly-ache about the difficulties of having to tow a wheelie-bin two metres to an automated lift on the back of their wagon should be forced to spend a week with Omar and Mohamed.

When we get back to the truck with our load, a crowd has gathered. It’s almost a party atmosphere, and Omar is congratulated on his tenacity in getting the truck up to the village for the first time. He smiles, as if the skidding and sliding had been nothing.

And yet another five point turn!
As we begin our descent the rains return, leaving great splashes on the windscreen to obscure the view and wetting the rough stones of the road. At each tight turn, Mohamed jumps off his stand at the back and shepherds Omar as he makes his cautious three - and sometimes five - point turns. I don’t comment, but a sideways glance at Omar tells me that he’s only marginally less nervous than I am. With an almost audible sigh of relief, more on my part than Omar’s because I only have to do it this once whereas he will be making the trip weekly, we arrive back at the main road and scuttle off to the smouldering incineration area on the edge of Imlil.

Rubbish dumped, I thank them both, and leave. Ten minutes later, while I’m sat under the awning of a café taking a glass of mint tea, I see them driving up the main street, and wave.

* * * 


This is an extract from Reasonable Plans, the story of the Kasbah du Toubkal and the work it does with the Association Bassins d’Imlil and the villages of the Imlil Valley.

Derek Workman is an English journalist living in Valencia City, Spain – although he admits to a love of Morocco and would love to up stumps and move here. To read more of his stories about Spain visit www.derekworkman-journalist.com and Spain Uncovered. Articles and books can also be found at Digital Paparazzi.

The View from Fez welcomes guest contributions. Your story and photographs (jpeg) should be emailed to theviewfromfez@gmail.com

Sunday, September 25, 2011

"The Hidden Waters of Fez" ~ How you can help!




And the water... following its countless courses behind the partitions of earth and stone. Seldom visible but nearly always present, it rushed beneath the sloping alleyways, here gurgled, here merely dripped, here beyond the wall of a garden splashed or dribbled in the form of a fountain, here fell with a high hollow noise into an invisible cistern, here all at once was unabashedly a branch of the river roaring over the rocks (so that sometimes the cold vapor rising was carried over the wall by the wind and wet his face), here by the bakery had been dammed and was almost still, a place where the rats swam.



This beautiful description of the Fez Medina can be found in the Paul Bowles' novel The Spider's House.  While the protagonist cannot see the water, its presence is everywhere. Years on, the sound of water in Fez is now rare. The waters have become hidden. But now we can report that filmmaker, Joe Lukawski is embarking on a project  called “Les eaux cachées,” or “Hidden Waters”. The View from Fez asked him to explain.



The waters of Fez first interested me when I heard the enigmatic story of the water clock just off Tala’a Kbira – a mechanism no one really knew too much about, except that it was driven by underground water and that it told time quite precisely. From then on, stories of underground water channels and of medieval Fez’s reliance on the plentiful waters flowing through the city built up until it was evident that a film must be made – a film on the history of Fez’s waters, on the rich cultural forms that have taken shape around this vital life-giving resource and on the preservation of such a resource and its place in Fassi life - from Fez’s brilliantly tiled fountains, to the running water the river once provided all homes.

“Les eaux cachées,” or “Hidden Waters” will take the shape of a 52 minute documentary film, produced over the next nine months in and around Fez to address the issues of water conservation and the urban restoration taking place around Fez’s waters. In this, one of our principal aims is to bring Fassi tradition and folklore alive as we explore some of the dying trades linked to the old water system and to a way of life played out increasingly in the shadow of modernity. The Kwadsi, who have the closest relationship with Fez’s medieval water channels – literally crawling though them with long hooked poles – are but one genre of tradesman whose stories “Hidden Waters” will seek to tell.

Having spent some time in Fez before, I have returned on a Fulbright grant for the project and have linked up with some creative folks to make this project happen. Over the next three months I will be researching the old water system and its role in medieval Fez – photographing and taking video that will be shared on the film’s blog (see here). These first months are also your chance to take part in this one of a kind documentary.



Kickstarter, a website dedicated to the “crowd-sourcing” of creative projects, has given us the opportunity to raise funds for the film directly, by engaging you. Crowd-sourcing works like this: we set a goal for our fundraising, you visit our kickstarter page, check out our video and our presentation of the project, and donate by clicking “back this project.” As you’ll notice on the site, your donations do not go unrewarded. Depending on the level of donation, backers receive one of a kind gifts and will all have their names in the films credits.


Our goal is not only to make a film that will be interesting for international crowds, but to create a community around the film that is willing to help us share stories of some of Fez’s most interesting spaces, people and folklore. As disrepair to the old water channels threatens buildings and makes access to water expensive for some medina residents, so modernity obscures Fez’s beautiful history with water.
- Joe Lukawski, director of "Hidden Rivers"
Photographs: Omar Chenafi

The View from Fez is supporting this project  and will have regular reports on its progress. We would urge you to join us in donating to assist Joe in making the film. Contributions can be made at the project's KICKSTARTER PAGE.


Moroccan Poets Unite with the World


Thirty-five poets, musicians and keen listeners turned out for the 100,000 Poets for Change event yesterday afternoon. Held at Cafe Clock, it was one of many affiliated events world-wide on the same day.  - Suzanna Clarke reports.

Fez poet Ahmed El Inani reads his work
 The aim was to encourage people to "slow down, think, listen and feel more deeply," according to poet Fatima Bouhraka, President of the Moroccan House of Poetry Association.

Fatima Bouhraka reading
 One of the event organisers, Mustafa Bokkoli Ferchokhi, said that the Fez event was one of two in Morocco, with the other occurring in Agadir. "Our main purpose is to re-direct social and political discourse - to sensitise people to social issues such as poverty. The world has always been changed by language. We hope (with events such as this), we can bring about increased awareness."

Event organiser Mustafa Bokkoli Ferchokhi
 While most poets were from Fez, some had travelled from far to share their work, giving readings in Darija and French. There were even a couple of poems in English.

Kacem Loubay from Kenitra, winner of this year's Naji Naaman Literary Prize, said that "to be a poet is to feel like an exile - it is important to try and connect with the wider community."

Said Abdelhadi, from Rabat, said that "poets have always articulated the desire for freedom. Words can make a difference".

Between readings, participants and listeners - many of whom were aspiring writers - enjoyed traditional Moroccan music and sipped on orange juice and other refreshments, provided courtesy of the American Language Center.

The View From Fez team was represented in the poetry readings by Sandy McCutcheon, who read a poem he had composed while walking to the event. It included the lines:

My poems are refugees from literature...
My poems bleed onto paper
White as a winding sheet for the dead
My poems feed on one word
That word is hope.



Photographs: Suzanna Clarke


Saturday, September 24, 2011

The Morocco Mall Casablanca - set to open soon


Spread over ten hectares, the Morocco Mall in Casablanca is the largest shopping centre in Africa and the Middle East. The Aksal Group which is 100% Moroccan owned, has invested over 2 billion dirhams in the complex which will open October 20, 2011. Designed as an extension of the main Casablanca waterfront promenade, the shell-shaped shopping center also houses the first Galeriés Lafayette store in Africa, set like a gem in the shopping centre. The exterior is adorned with a number of skylights, open gardens, trees and water areas.



The Morocco Mall, which officially opens on October 20th in Casablanca, promises big things. The complex is characterized by the novel concept of "retailtainement" .

North Africa's First Imax Cinema

Not only will the mall offer a mix of retail outlets - fashion, beauty, luxury goods, culture, technology, health,  interior design, food, crafts, services, leisure, relaxation and food - the site will have a huge entertainment component. This will include an aquarium, an adventure and amusement park, Imax, the first 3D cinema in North Africa and the third largest musical fountain in the world after North America and Asia.


The diversity of entertainment and leisure activities is extraordinary, with a food court with forty restaurants, a health: spa, an ice rink, Aquapark, and fun park.

If retail-therapy is your thing, then you will be well catered for as this mega centre will bring together brands such as Massimo Dutti, Zara, Mango, Promod, Okaïdi, La Vie en Rose, Aldo, La Senza, Stradivarius and many more. Dior and Gucci will be represented by boutiques. In total, more than 85 brands will be available, some for the first time  in Morocco. In addition  there ia a hypermarket with an area of one hectare.


 In a major coup, the Askal Group have lured the famous retail outlet Galeries Lafayette with a flagship store of 10,000 m² and more than 320 brands of ready-to-wear clothing and beauty products. This is only the third store on foreign soil after Berlin and Dubai. Galeries Lafayette are not the only major French franchise to come to Casablanca. The well-known retailer Fnac is also on board, offering a huge selection of books, records, computers, audio, video and photography.

While this may provide numerous employment opportunities, it will be interesting to observe how it will affect the surrounding retail environment. In other countries, the opening of major shopping malls - designed so that the customer spends as long as possible in the complex - has led to the closure of nearby small businesses, which cannot compete with the advertising power of the major brands. 

Meanwhile, just outside Rabat...







Photographs by Gerard Chemit - Click images to enlarge

Share your photographs on The View from Fez - Email jpegs to theviewfromfez@gmail.com