Sunday, March 31, 2013

Women's Mirror II Opens in Fez

Yesterday more than 150 people attended the Women's Mirror II conference, exhibition opening and concert 
Participants, ALC students and members of the public at the opening of Women's Mirror II

Women's Mirror II was organised by the ALC-ALIF Photography Club and sponsored by the American Language Center and Arabic Language Institute of Fes. Following on from last year's exhibition Women's Mirror I, this year 20 local women turned their cameras on the men in their lives. The aim was to give them a means to express themselves through the universal medium of photography. The exhibition can be seen at ALIF Riad until April 13.

The Women's Mirror II Conference began at 2 PM, and panel members included Touria Najmi from Batha Women's Shelter; Hicham El Gharrab, a teacher at Bensouda High School who has a Masters in Gender Studies and artist Violeta Caldres.


Touria Najmi from Batha Women's Shelter and artist Violeta Caldres at the Conference

Touria said that women have long been restricted from being able to fully express themselves by their economic situations. Hicham said that the Islamic religion is not the problem in Moroccan society - it's the way it has been traditionally interpreted and used to suppress women. "The text has been misinterpreted," he said. All the panel members agreed that social media has given many women a voice that has previously been denied them. Translations were provided by American researcher Meri Miyoshi and journalism student Hanan Touzani.

Left to right: photographers Touria Najimi, Eloudie Dufour-Merle; Boushra Laktami; organiser Omar Chennafi; photographers Siham Baroudi; Inass El Arabi and Violetta Caldres

At 5 PM the Women's Mirror II exhibition opened, and the space buzzed as members of the public and the women photographers and their families looked eagerly at the results of their work, presented in groups in handsome black frames.

Fatema Zohra Hajji records the event

Awatif Maqboul, Darifa Khedaoui and participating photographer Khadija Maqboul
University students Boushra Laktami and Othman Benhaddouch
Artist Violeta Caldres hennaed Arabic sayings on many hands
Participating photographer Siham Baroudi

At 6 PM more people poured in and the courtyard was packed as the Songs for Fes Concert began, fronted by oud player Leo Fabre-Cartier, accompanied by a classical guitarist and tabla player. Painter Abderrahim El Hassani did a visual interpretation to the Andalusian-style music in the form of a speedily executed abstract painting.

Oud player Leo Fabre-Cartier entertained the crowd, along with other Andalusian musicians
Abderrahim El Hassani executing a speed painting during the concert
The courtyard of ALIF Riad was packed for the Songs from Fes Concert
When: Daily after 4.30 PM, until April 13 
Where: ALIF Riad, 6 Derb Drissi, Batha, Fes 
Info: 0659661502 or www.alcfezbook.com
Cost: Free


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Morocco ~ Another View of Easter



Easter in Morocco? Yes, there are Easter eggs, and rabbit (just ask your local butcher).  In most cases however it is more a question of chickens (coloured) than eggs.

It's understandable that some of the local Moroccans find Easter a rather confusing idea. As one Moroccan told The View from Fez, "First it was a pagan festival, then a religious festival and now a commercial festival, like Christmas".
Finally, we are in debt to the many readers who saw the image below on the internet and decided it was healthy (rational) food for thought while you munch on easter eggs and heat up the Easter-bunny rabbit stew...


Whatever your belief - we wish you a happy and peaceful Easter.

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Friday, March 29, 2013

Bertrand Bellon exhibition at the Musée de Marrakech


From 1 April to 30 June, the Musée de Marrakech – Omar Benjelloun Foundation will organise an exhibition dedicated to Bertrand Bellon, titled “Les Ombres de Majorelle.”


Bertrand Bellon is a French painter and photographer who lives and works in Paris. As a researcher in social sciences who turned towards painting in 1980, he stated the following about his background: “As an academic, I have always linked research, teaching and practical onsite actions in very diverse cultural environments. This in turn led me to use different media to enable the integration of such situations. I have consistently used the camera, the pencil, even pastel and charcoal to help me in my research.” He regularly exhibits his work just about anywhere in the world, in France, in Morocco, in China, in Tunisia, in Vietnam, in Japan as well as in Pakistan.


The Musée de Marrakech – created through the initiative of collector, philanthropist and patron Omar Benjelloun – is located in a palace built at the end of the 19th century. It is dedicated both to heritage and contemporary creation. Its collections are comprised of archaeological, ethnographical and historical objects, retracing the evolution of the Moroccan civilisation. It also houses several works by orientalist artists, and a contemporary art collection including a large ensemble dedicated to Moroccan artists.

Musée de Marrakech
Fondation Omar Benjelloun
Place Ben Youssef - Marrakech-Médina

Tél.: +212 24 44 18 93
Fax: +212 24 44 19 01
mail: musee.de.marrakech@menara.ma


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Thursday, March 28, 2013

Moroccan News Briefs #93


Increased security level to stop jihadists fleeing northern Mali.

There is concern in Morocco over the possibility of hard-line fighters entering Morocco after fleeing Mali, especially after the appeal made in a recent statement from the Al-Qaeda in the Lands of the Islamic Maghreb (AQIM). It was the first statement to be issued by AQIM since the beginning of the African and French military intervention in Mali.

In recent weeks, Moroccan security agencies investigated a group of individuals affiliated with the Salafi jihadist movement. Authorities released them without charge after taking their statements. The investigation was a precautionary step.

Earlier this year, Moroccan authorities arrested several networks that were recruiting and sending fighters to Mali and Syria.

Recently, Salafi jihadists have been circulating video footages showing Moroccan recruits carrying weapons and fighting in Syria and Mali. The jihadists use the footage in order to promote and publicize their activities in Mali and Syria.

Moroccan security analysts believe that since Morocco has no direct joint border with Mali the threat posed by jihadists is small when compared with that posed to Algeria and Mauritania.

Moreover, the Al-Qaeda threat in Morocco is not as severe as in other North Africa countries. Abdallah Elrami, a Moroccan researcher at the Royal Institute for Strategic Studies, specializing in Islamic groups, believes that Al-Qaeda failed to establish a foothold in Morocco because of the heavy blows it received at the hands of Moroccan security agencies.

According to Elrami, "The groups that left Morocco for Mali were small in number, unlike the people who we saw leave Mauritania and Algeria. It will be difficult for them to return home because the security authorities are monitoring them. On the other hand, there is no favorable environment or strong and organized networks that would harbor them in Morocco as is the case in Algeria where the head of the AQIM command is based."

Elrami added that senior AQIM officials, led by the organization chief Abdelmalik Droukdel himself, said that they failed to establish channels of communication, coordination, and logistical support with Salafi jihadists in Morocco because of the security agencies continuous monitoring, which has prevented the setting up of an Al-Qaeda branch in Morocco.


Rising costs cause pilgrimage problems.

Travel agencies specializing in spiritual tourism, including Umrah (pilgrimage to Mecca), have been having a tough time lately. Tour operators say that the increasingly competitive market has become something of a nightmare with some pilgrims becoming the victim of scams.

Majdi Khalil, President of the Federation of Travel Agencies in Morocco (FNAVM) says  "The demand is there, but travel agencies in Morocco do not have a clear picture of this vital niche market. Annually an average of more than 50,000 Moroccans average perform Umrah pilgrimages. Yet we have only 30,000 identified in our Haj operation".

Clock Hotel Mecca
In addition, the hotel sector in Mecca has been undergoing changes. Hundreds of hotels have been demolished as part of a large redevelopment project underway to accommodate 10 million pilgrims by 2020 against 3 or 4 million today. Over the past decade, the face of Mecca has changed considerably. Modern buildings surrounding the Grand Mosque, such as the "Mecca Clock" a prestigious hotel of 120 floors inspired by Big Ben in London and other projects designed by the Saudi authorities to provide pilgrims prayer spaces have resulted in a price increase.

"The hotel industry has become more expensive. During the period of Ramadan 4 and 5 star hotels charge exorbitant prices,"says Majdi.

And it is not just that prices that will discourage Moroccans.

"Booking hotel rooms has become increasingly difficult. You must have a good network in Saudi Arabia on site in order to save the day. And people must be aware that prices have risen more than 35%," says Mustapha Kaddouri a tour operator in Oujda where pilgrims go for direct flights to Mecca.

The direct flight demands of tourists are only available through Royal Air Morocco (RAM) and Saudi Arabian Airlines, while airlines like Turkish Airlines, Lufthansa, Qatar Airways all make stops in Istanbul, Cairo or Dubai, which are not always the preference of pilgrims.

Tour operators warn that with the present problems pilgrims need to be careful as some have become victims of scams.


Airline in charity drive.

Air Arabia Morocco has linked up with SOS Children's Villages. The airline has formalized its partnership with SOS Children's Villages and launched a project called "Cloud Charity Morocco".


The aim is to raise funds for the association and create shelters, provide care and offer a better education in Africa. The low cost airline will invite passengers to donate through a system of envelopes handed out on their flights.

By the end of February Moroccans had raised over 3.3 million dirhams, or about 300,000 euros.

SOS Children's Villages (German: SOS-Kinderdorf) is an independent, non-governmental international development organisation which has been working to meet the needs and protect the interests and rights of children since 1949.

It was founded by Austrian Hermann Gmeiner. According to the Financial Times, the 2004 turnover of SOS Children's Villages altogether was US$ 807 million, and it was ranked 33 out of a 100 global NGOs for "global accountability". Its international umbrella organisation, SOS-Kinderdorf International, was founded in 1960, after national associations had been established in France, Germany and Italy in addition to the original Austrian association. Over a hundred national associations across the world have since been established.


OPINION - Beware taking some tripadvisor reviews at face value.

A recent posting on Tripadvisor has been pointed out to The View from Fez as an example of just how damaging one person's jaundiced point of view can be. While in no way wanting to stop people expressing their point of view, some things are simply just wrong.

Fez - "a glorified slum" ?

In the recent case a gentleman from Melbourne Australia launched into an attack on Fez that was unwarranted and so far from the facts that one wonders where he actually visited.

"A slum is a slum by any other names (sic)"

His review of Fez started with ...

A slum is still a slum by any other names. This place in Fes may be a world heritage site with few changes since its beginning, but it is still a dirty dangerous place. Colourful tourist brochures or travel documentary may paint it exotic and fascinating but when there in person the reality hits you when accosted by the smell and rubbish everywhere together with the brashness of the people waiting to empty your pockets.

Yes, Fez, like anywhere else does have a smell. Sometimes it is the earthy smell of donkey droppings, at others the smell of spicy food being cooked, of cedar being used by woodworkers and at the time of writing, the sweet smell of orange blossom in bloom.

"A dirty dangerous place"? - Rubbish collection in Fez is a daily occurrence, unlike Melbourne where it is only once a week. And as for danger, figures released by the Victorian Police show Melbourne to be a far more dangerous place with murder, rape and assault figures numbering in the hundreds. Fez by comparison is a haven of tranquility. Even nationwide the figures are impressive. The average of 59 people murdered by firearms per year in Australia compares to 1 in Morocco.

A tourist checking out a donkey on a nice clean street in Fez!

It is a large labyrinth of ancient buildings, characterized by endless winding narrow slippery laneways, strewn with wet and dry rubbish, even animal dung on uneven cobbled stones. No motorized vehicles can get through nor allowed except perhaps motorcycles. The usual mode of transport would be hand drawn carts or donkeys. 

The description  "large labyrinth of ancient buildings, characterized by endless winding narrow slippery laneways" is part of the charm of Fez. That this is a characteristic of the Medina is what has made it such a Mecca for tourists. The animal transport in the medina is a constant delight and it would be hard to find a single tourist who has not wanted to photograph the animals. An increasing number of tourists also visit the American Fonduk, the charity veterinary hospital that cares for the working animals of the Medina.

Artisans in Fez 
Small shops and tourist outlets abound to sell local handicrafts, carpets, leather goods, clothing, brass wares, jewellery, food and drinks. 

The so-called tourist outlets are patronised by local Moroccans who far out number tourists in purchasing. It is an orientalist view that local handcrafts are simply for tourists. Around 90% of sales in the Medina are to Moroccans.

Once you start the journey in there’s no turning back. You need a good old pair of shoes and be prepared to get them dirty. There’ no place for you to sit and rest along the way and of course you’ll be in trouble should you need the toilets.

This is just wrong. Toilets and washrooms are available. One only has to ask. There are lots of places to sit, in fact, sitting over a glass of mint tea and watching the passing throng is a favourite pastime.

Fez - plenty of places to sit and watch the passing parade of people

We were warned to be alert for pick pockets. Somehow you feel unseen eyes watching your every move and at one stage we got pebbles thrown in our direction. Frankly, I would avoid this place but if you insist on visiting a medina in Morocco, the one in Marrakesh is better, cleaner and less intimidating.

We read this paragraph and wondered why the gentleman did not simply stay at home. The paranoia about people watching is laughable and as the Moroccans will tell you, the tourists are watching us far more closely! And you are more likely to be robbed in St Kilda than in Fez. As many Australian women travelling alone in Morocco have noted, they feel safer at night in Fez than they do in most Australian cities.

We are not going to get into a Marrakech versus Fez discussion - it is much like the rivalry between Sydney and Melbourne - but Marrakech while not being the cultural and spiritual heart of the country, is a delight for shopping although the Medina now has few working artisans - a big difference from Fez... and did we mention the Marrakech motorcycle menace...?

Of course he is welcome to his opinion, but it was interesting to note that out of the 700 plus reviews of Fez, only 16 people appear to agree with the gentleman from Melbourne. We hope he returns and lets us offer him an alternate view of Fez


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Wednesday, March 27, 2013

Celebrate Women this Weekend


This Saturday in Fez from 2.15 PM you are invited to a special event - Women's Mirror II

It's a packed afternoon and evening - building on the success of last year's Women's Mirror I exhibition, this year the ALC-ALIF Photography Club and organiser Omar Chennafi have expanded the program.

2.15 PM Panel discussion on Women's Right to Self Expression. During the presentation, artist Abderrahim El Hassani will be doing some instant creativity related to the topic. 

4 PM Hunna - an insightful documentary about violence against women and the resilience of individuals. 

4.30 PM. Exhibition Opening. This year more than 20 local women have reversed the gender perspective, turning their cameras on the men in their lives. 

5.45 PM Songs for Fes free concert - a diverse range of artists combine talents to celebrate women. 



So, come along to ALIF Riad, and enjoy the vibrant and uplifting atmosphere this Saturday. The hardworking members of the ALC-ALIF Photography Club will be on hand to welcome everyone.

This event is sponsored by the American Language Center and Arabic Language Institute of Fes.

When: Saturday March 30 from 2.15 PM. Exhibition opens at 4.30 PM. 
Where: ALIF Riad, 6 Derb Drissi, Batha, Fes 
(Meet at Batha Fountain at 2 PM, 4.15 PM or 5.45 PM).
Info: 0659661502 or www.alcfezbook.com
Cost: Free

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Boxing Workshop in Fez - a smash hit!


Boxing teacher Christophe Tendil

Last weekend an area of the Fez Medina resounded to the grunts and thumps of glove hitting glove and, occasionally, contact with flesh, writes Suzanna Clarke

Fourteen people participated in the three day boxing and kickboxing workshop, on Saturday to Monday mornings, held at Jardin des Biehn. Participants ages ranged from 14 year olds through to those in their 60's. The tutor was the extraordinary Christophe Tendil - a veteran boxer with nine titles under his belt, including World Champion in kickboxing (1997 & 1998) and World Champion in boxing in 2007.


Suleman and Brice get into the swing of things

Tendil isn't a huge man, but has incredibly quick reflexes; he moves like a cat. He proved to be an excellent teacher - patient and informative. As well as showing the practical side, he spoke about having respect for one's opponent and boxing being a sport of strategy, rather than agression. And it was true; the combinations of moves required, while at the same time anticipating what could come back at you, made it resemble a complex dance. 

Christophe and Zorah show how it's done

A playful mood pervaded the terrace, and there was a lot of laughter. Towards the end of the three hours every day, however, things quietened down as people concentrated on preserving their energy to last the distance - while Tendil appeared tireless. 

Kleo and Zorah slug it out

For beginners like myself, having Tendil teach me boxing was a bit like asking Mozart to teach a child "chopsticks".  But he didn't discriminate between those with experience and those without, and was encouraging and attentive to all.

Paul's height was a definite advantage
Kleo lands a punch - with her eyes closed! 

Last weekend was a rich and rewarding - albeit exhausting - experience. Let's hope Tendil can be persuaded to do another workshop in Fez sometime. 

To see our previous story on Christophe Tendil, CLICK HERE. 


Hind and Mohamed hard at play


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France and Morocco Enhance Tax Links


In attempts to improve Morocco's improve tax system and in order to attract investors, Morocco recently lowered corporate and individual income tax rates and simplified tax legislation. The aim of the Moroccan Government is to improve tax transparency and to enhance relations between taxpayers and the tax administration. It is hoped that once the improvements are completed, the tax system will be in line with the best international standards.

An area seen as being very important is the tax relationship between Morocco and France. According to Morocco’s Director General of Taxation Abdellatif Zaghnoun (pictured left), there is "very intense" cooperation between France and Morocco in the area of taxation and customs.

Following a recent international gathering in Paris, Zaghnoun alluded to the "unique" and "multi-faceted" relationship between the Moroccan and French Finance Ministries. Zaghnoun explained that regular meetings take place between the two tax administrations, to identify areas for further cooperation and development and to share expertise and knowledge.

Zaghnoun stressed that there exist close tax ties between Morocco and France, and the Government's commitment is to strengthening these relations and to encouraging mutual investment. The Moroccan Government is constantly striving to introduce fiscal measures aimed at facilitating investment in and encouraging French investors to Morocco, Zaghnoun said.


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Tuesday, March 26, 2013

Master Musicians Of Joujouka Festival 2013



The Joujouka Festival began in 2008 to mark the 40th anniversary of the visit by Brian Jones of the Rolling Stones and has been held annually since. Jones recorded the group during his stay and the resulting Brian Jones Presents The Pipes Of Pan At Joujouka is widely regarded as one of the first world music albums. 


Other visitors to the village over the years include writers and artists Brion Gysin, William S Burroughs and Timothy Leary, who all wrote of their experiences after being entranced by the sacred music. There are plenty of reasons why the Joujouka festival is unlike any other you’ll experience but one is that it’s a festival in reverse: a small number of people watch the same band for three days. Up close.

So, when you come to Joujouka for the festival, you’re not just following in the footsteps of Paul Bowles, Brion Gysin, William Burroughs, Brian Jones and some of the world’s most challenging artists. You’re experiencing the unique healing power of the music of the Masters in its purest possible form.


The next Master Musicians of Joujouka Festival takes place from 14-16 June 2013 For the last six years Moroccan sufi trance group the Master Musicians Of Joujouka have held an annual festival for an international crowd of music lovers to experience their music in an intimate setting. This year's event still has a limited number of spaces available.

The festival is held in the Musicians' village, based in the picturesque rolling hills of the Ahl Serif mountains in northern Morocco, near Ksar El Kebir, offering guests a unique opportunity to witness the music of the “4,000 year old rock n roll band” over three days and nights.


The music played in the village is said to date back to the 15th century, when the Sufi saint Sidi Ahmed Schiech arrived and taught the Masters' ancestors music which could heal. Today's group of Master Musicians are blessed with the Baraka or spirit of their saint, who is buried in the village. In 2011 the group travelled to England to perform on the main Pyramid stage at Glastonbury. For the annual festival in Joujouka visitors spend three days with the Musicians in their homes.


For more information and booking details visit: http://www.joujouka.org/


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Monday, March 25, 2013

Understanding Hammam Heritage


Hammam al Hussaynia - Cairo 2008 (Photo: Dr. Magda Sibley)
A lecture this Wednesday at 5 PM at the American Language Center will explore the architectural and cultural significance of the hammam
Hammams, or bath-houses are an important part of Moroccan culture; in common with other countries such as Turkey and those in the Middle East. They are not only a place where people can relax and socialise while getting clean, but also have architectural significance.

On Wednesday Dr Magda Sibley, from the Manchester Architecture Research Centre at The University Of Manchester, will deliver a lecture, Learning from the past, innovating for the future: Lessons of Sustainability from Courtyard Housing & Public Baths in North African and Middle Eastern Heritage Cities.

Dr Sibley has been researching hammams and courtyard housing in the heritage cities of North Africa and the Middle East from 2007 and 2012, and has written books and lectured widely about them. Her research examines how these two types of buildings, inherited from Roman times, have contributed to cultural, social and environmental urban sustainability and how they can be of benefit in the future.

She teaches architecture and urbanism and her approach aims to increase students' awareness of buildings as part of urban landscapes and contexts rather than single sculptural objects.

When: Wednesday March 27 at 5 PM
Where: American Language Center, Room 1, 2 Rue Ahmed Hiba


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