Luxurious palace in the Fez Medina

Through this magnificent door lies probably the most luxurious house in the Fez medina that has recently become available to rent for a holiday of a lifetime. Helen Ranger visits Riad Misbah.


Riad Misbah offers just about every comfort you can imagine. Not only is the house impeccably restored and sumptuously decorated with Italian fabrics and antiques, but it is fully staffed, including a cook and butler.


Off the elegant courtyard is a swimming pool that can be heated in winter, and a large hammam (traditional Moroccan steam bath). Gardens and a magnificent zellij fountain surround the pool.




The library boasts Wifi, television, a music system and, of course, books. There's a large dining room in the Italian monastery style, as well as a Moroccan salon and a ballroom with a fireplace and imposing chandeliers.

The house sleeps up to ten people in five bedrooms that are all air-conditioned; three have their own bathroom while two share one. Uniquely for Fez, the house has an efficient central heating system.

Riad Misbah is perfectly situated between Place Batha and Bab Boujloud, yet retains an air of tranquility in the midst of a busy medina. Views from the roof terraces are spectacular.

Such luxury doesn't come cheap, of course. But when you do the sums, the price per person with a full house of ten is good value. Included are airport transfers, breakfast and dinner (or lunch), the staff, use of the pool and hammam as well as a massage and half a day with a medina guide. The only extras are pool heating if necessary, laundry and alcoholic drinks (available at cost price). There's a minimum stay of three nights, and children over the age of 12 are welcome.

For a virtual tour of the courtyard, click here.

Bookings through Fez Riads.

Women of Fes

Based on almost two years of fieldwork conducted in the city of Fez, Rachel Newcomb's Women of Fes provides valuable insights into the everyday lives of Moroccan women. Helen Ranger has been reading the book.

Rachel Newcomb is a young American anthropologist, currently an assistant professor at Rollins College in Florida, USA. She has spent time studying Sufism in Egypt, Turkey, Senegal and Moroccan. Married to a Fassi, Newcomb lived in the Ville Nouvelle of Fez for almost two years, where she had plenty of access to Moroccan women.


'At this moment in history', she writes, 'when images of veiled and "oppressed" Muslim women crowd the television and are used in support of policy initiatives ranging from economic development to war, public understanding, particularly in the United States, of what it means to be a Muslim woman is limited at best. The "Muslim woman" remains an essentialized entity, a hooded figure imagined to be subjected to a vindictive, patriarchal religion, tribal mores, and certain abuse from her husband. Sensationalized stories of honor killings, female circumcision, and women singled out for improper dress by the Taliban and brutally attacked, capture the public imagination and lead to the widespread impression that the Muslim world is a singular place where the lot of all women is appalling.'

Tellingly, Newcomb says, 'Particularly at this time, nuanced protrayals of women in Muslim countries are needed more than ever, if for no other reason than to highlight the complexities of their lives and to underscore the fact that they are not waiting to be "saved" by the West.'

The book contains a number of fascinating case histories of largely middle-class Fassi women living in the Ville Nouvelle. They include that of Hurriya, a matriarch who holds down a responsible administrative job as well as providing for her adult children and grandchildren; Naima, a disabled lawyer who also volunteers at a women's NGO; Layla, a singer who longs to be recognised for her talent as well as her 'modern' outlook on life, as well as insights into Newcomb's own adopted family.

Why Fez, and why women from the Ville Nouvelle? Newcomb chose Fez for her study as 'the provincial character of a city like Fes, with a population of ove a million residents, makes it an interesting area for inquiry' rather than the capital, Rabat, or a more cosmopolitan city such as Casablanca. And the Ville Nouvelle 'offers a unique opportunity to observe ... processes in urban areas of the Muslim world that are not considered central to political and economic operations of power'.

Newcomb maintains that 'the identity of Moroccan women is inextricably connected to the way Moroccans imagine their nation. How urban, middle-class Fassis, particularly women, construct their identities and gender space in response to ideologies in largely the subject of this book'.

Also central is the discussion that took place concerning reforms to the mudawana (the personal status code that particularly affects women with regard to their marital condition, divorce, custody of children and inheritance) that were mooted in the early 2000s and instigated in 2004. One criticism is that Newcomb's research was carried out between 2001 and 2002, which means that the results of changes to the mudawana are not recorded. But with that in mind, the study makes fascinating reading.

Women of Fes by Rachel Newcomb is published by University of Pensylvania Press. Read more about the author at www.rachelnewcomb.net.

Click here for the latest CNN news on women's rights in Morocco - this interview features Fatima Sadiqi.

Throne Day in Morocco

July 30 marks the tenth anniversary of the succession of His Majesty King Mohamed VI of Morocco and is celebrated with the public holiday, Throne Day.


His Majesty is in the north of Morocco, visiting the cities of Tetouan and Tangier, where he will officiate at Throne Day festivities. This week, he has been appointing new ministers and receiving several new ambassadors to the kingdom. Today, the King has pardoned 24 865 prisoners, a common occurence at this time.

The View from Fez wishes all Moroccans a blessed Throne Day.

Fes Festival's new director

Abdelhak Azzouzi (below) has been named new Director General of the Fondation Esprit de Fes (Spirit of Fez Foundation), and replaces Fatima Sadiqi who held the post for two years.


The Foundation organises various festivals including the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music, the Festival of Amazigh Culture, the Culinary Festival and the Fez Jazz Festival.

Professor of Political Science at the Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdallah University in Fez, M Azzouzi lectures in international relations at the Law Faculty, and is president of the Moroccan Interdisciplinary Centre for International Strategic Studies, and of the Fondation Ecoles de l'Espoir.

'I want to contribute to the building of the economic, social and cultural development of the city of Fez', announced M Azzouzi on his appointment, 'and to promote the image of this ancient city as a prestigious cultural and spiritual destination.'

He is keen to have the Foundation continue in its work to 'break down the barriers between ideas, thought and talents to make Fez a cultural crossroads for people from all over the world'.

There have been plenty of changes over the last couple years in the Fes Festival's management. Three Directors General have left: Faouzi Skalli, Naima Lahbil and now Fatima Sadiqi. Also lost have been the sponsorship director, Amina Fassi Fehri; the USA director, Zeyba Rahman; Production Director, Ali Diouri; Artistic Director, Cherif Khaznadar (although current and past Artistic Director, Gerard Kurdjian, is still in his job), as well as two financial controllers and various press co-ordinators.

Dr Sadiqi said in a communique with the press that she herself had suggested M Azzouzi for the post. She plans to devote more time to her academic pursuits.

The View from Fez wishes M Azzouzi every success in his new post.

Fez Jazz Festival cancelled

The View from Fez has also learned that the Foundation has cancelled the Fez Jazz Festival which was to have taken place from 14-16 November. Reasons are not apparent at this stage, but are probably financial.

The fifth edition of this event, which recently changed its name to FesJazz, had plenty of stars lined up to play not only in medina palaces as in past years, but also in city restaurants such as Trois Sources and the Majestic.

Faces in the Medina - Gail Leonard

Over the years there have been a lot of different people offering cooking lessons in Fez. Tourists, chefs and foodies have the city marked down as a "must visit" destination because of the wide range of culinary adventures available in and around the Fez Medina. Gail Leonard decided that what was needed was a little coordination and a way for intending visitors to book their culinary explorations in advance. The idea has grown into reality and Fez Food is up and running.

Recently The View from Fez, food editor, Marcel, caught up with Gail. Here is his report:

Gail Leonard, fabulously 40, previously ran a drug and alcohol agency in Yorkshire following a lot of research around the world, most notably 10 years in Berlin and a year in Tokyo whilst studying.

Loving the buzz of such extreme cities, she came to Fez for the first time in 2004 with her then partner. When I asked her "why Fez?" her eyes lit up.

"I Immediately fell in love with Fez because of the mystery and madness that the city offers at every single turn!".

Now embarking on a whole new adventure she has set up FezFood to promote cooking lessons and foodie adventures in the Fez region. What better way to access the local authentic culture, than by exploring the food and drinks that sustain it! Her first client is Clock Kitchen, café clock’s new cooking school, other ventures include trips to the Middle Atlas to hand roll couscous, tastings and tours of Meknes wineries and more delights are in progress. "I'm always on the lookout for people offering new culinary adventures in the region," Gail says.

Her favourite street food – chalouine (or hoummus quiche!) hard to find but worth it!
Favourite cafe – Café clock ("The staff do a great job at looking after my toddler Francesca whilst Mummy gets stuck into researching the cake!")
Favourite restaurant – Fes et gestes for great Moroccan fare
Favourite getaway – anywhere by the sea with great food!
Favourite dish to cook – tanjia.

What was so special about tanjia?

"The first time I felt properly embraced by my local community was the time I cooked tanjia. The whole street got involved in helping me with shopping, spices, translation at the community oven (Feran) and finally at the hammam furnace. Amazing!"

Given the forty-plus days in Fez, I could not avoid asking how she remains so cool and energtic.

"My secret for surviving the heat? Eating the best ice cream in Fez at The Villa and total immersion therapy (in Francesca’s princess paddling pool !)


Contact Gail at: fezfood@gmail.com

Faces in the Medina - Abdellatif

Abdellatif Ait Ben Abdellah views the work on his house.

An historic house in Fez is brought back to life

Abdellatif Ait Ben Abdellah has been restoring the magnificient mansion in the heart of the Fez Medina, which used to be known as Dar Skalli, for the past three years. He says it means much more to him than simply a commercial venture. "It is close to my heart". When the 4 million dirham (US$500,00), project is completed, the house will open as a maison d'hote in "September, inshallah".

The house will have a name change to Dar Ben Souda, as there is already a Riad Dar Skalli. This would honour the house's most famous former resident - Sufi saint Sidi Ahmed Taudi Bensouda. It also stands opposite the Zouia that bears his name.


The mansion had fallen into decrepitude when Abdellatif bought it. While he was in negotiations to purchase, all the huge cedar doors, which he describes as "the jewels of the house", were removed by one of the brothers who owned the property. They were being transported at night on the backs of donkeys, when luckily they were spotted by local residents David Amster and Maria Riesterer. Through some wily detective work, David found out they had been taken to Rabat. He then purchased them back for 60,000 dirhams in the nick of time – one set had already been sold to a French couple who were dissuaded from taking them. Abdellatif then bought them from David.

Abdellatif operates a business in Marrakesh with a number of riads that offer accommodation, and has been restoring houses for more than a decade. He says this one has been his greatest challenge, due to the difficulties of access into the medina, obtaining the right materials and the costs involved. When finished, the riad hotel will offer nine rooms and two suites, with a restaurant, hammam, plus a swimming pool in an adjoining garden.

Workmen are, of course, restoring the valuable historic features such as the wonderful marsherabia, carved plaster work and zelij, while adding some modern touches such as ensuite bathrooms and a terrace finished in beige tadelakt. Abdellatif says, "you must respect the past. The role of anyone who owns such a building is simply to be one of the supporting walls.''

Morocco at a glance

Many of the emails received at The View from Fez are questions of how to fit in all of Morocco in a short one or two week trip. The answer is simple - you can't. However if you do have limited time, read on an make decisions about what to see and what to miss. The kingdom is as culturally rich as it is geographically diverse and cannot fail to impress. Here is a reposting of an article that will give you a taste of the treats that Morocco has to offer.

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Fez is the bustling cultural and spiritual centre of Morocco.

Without doubt, the main attraction in Morocco is Fez and central to that attraction is the medieval Fez Medina - the colourful old city, which has been continuously inhabited since the 10th century. It is a busy city which at first glance seems lost in the past with traditionally dressed Moroccans, and rich with the noise of buying and selling, veiled women going about their work and bell-ringing water sellers. However, spend some time observing and you find that it is also right at home with modernity. Almost everyone has a mobile phone and internet cafes are everywhere.

Fez is the last, intact, living and working medina on the planet and despite the modernity we referred to, the initial impression is that you have entered a time warp that takes you back hundreds of years. There are other medinas, but none approach the extraordinary experience that is Fez.

This is not a place for a single day, so, if possible, give yourself at least a week. At first glance, a guided tour is the easiest way to tackle the buzzing hive that is traditional Fez, but if you are brave, you can negotiate the tiny alleyways, too narrow for cars whilst risking getting lost and then haggling with a local to be guided back out! After the first day or two you will be ready to explore on your own and for further information on how to do that, check out our post: Walking the Fez Medina.



See also our post of pictures from around the souks of Fez: Around the souqs and Faces in the Medina Also, if you want a unique experience: A visit to the hammam

The Tanneries: A visit to the souks will lead to a visit to Fez's famous tanneries, where one of the oldest arts in the world is practiced to produce the soft leather do characteristic of Morocco. Many people warn you that you’ll need a strong stomach for the smells given off during curing, while you look down on the fascinating tanners’ yard and its impressive 1000 year old vats of different coloured dyes and piles of skins. However it is not as bad as some sensetive souls insist! Open 9-6, admission free.

View Point: The best vantage point over the ancient walled city is from the ruined Merenid Tombs on a hilltop to the east of the city. From here you can see the skyline with its profusion of satellite dishes, and a general mass of palaces, green-roofed holy places, the tanneries, as well as the adjacent Karaouine Mosque. Sunrise and sunset can be wonderful times to get the best photographs.

Moulay Idriss ll: In the depths of the old city sits the shrine that houses the remains of the founder of the city of Fez, Moulay Idriss II. It is one of the holiest buildings in the city. Non-Muslims may not enter, but you can glimpse inside to see the saint’s tomb, which is receives constant devotional visits from groups of women who burn candles and incense.

A couple of hours from Fez you will find Volubilis: it was built on top of a previous Carthaginian city and dates back to around the 3rd century BC, being a centre of Roman administration in Africa. Volubilis was inhabited until the 18th century, when it was carelessly demolished to provide building materials for the palaces of Moulay Ismail in Meknes. This meant a great deal of Morocco’s Roman architectural heritage was lost. However, today the ruins include some well-preserved columns, a basilica, a triumphal arch and about 30 beautiful mosaics.

Marrakech


Walking through the alleyways and souks of Marrakech, particularly in the Medina of the old city, it is easy to believe you have been transported back in time to the “Arabian Nights”. It is this enchanting mood that brings thousands of sightseers to the most visited of Moroccan cities.

The Medina while not as interesting as that in Fez, is characterized by much noise, hustle and bustle with tradesmen and craftsmen going about their daily tasks of cloth dying, copper beating or leather working, as well as herbalists, perfumers and slipper makers. Snow-covered peaks of the High Atlas Mountains form a beautiful backdrop for the city, although they are often hidden by the heat haze.



Djemaa el-Fna: On the edge of the Medina. It is an irregular 'square' and a hub of action where tourists flock to soak up the busy atmosphere. Tourism, though, has not spoilt, but rather added to the complete picture. This large town square translated as “Square fo the Dead” offers a colourful scene and is a magnet performing artists, snake charmers, musicians, storytellers and healers, all vying for attention. Passing tradesmen offer anything from boiled snails, vegetable soup and kebabs to fresh orange juice. There are many cafés here from which to watch the busy scene, and from where you may then visit the souks to find some shade from the searing Moroccan sun.



Marrakesh has a modern side with its luxury hotels, banks and streets bursting with motor scooters, while it blends effortlessly with the past of the old city. Marrakech was founded in 1062 by Youssef bin Tachfine of the Almoravide dynasty, and his son perfected the city by bringing in architects and Andalucian craftsmen from Córdoba to build palaces, baths, mosques and a subterranean water system. The city walls were raised from the red mud from the plains.

Horse drawn carriages: Known as calèches, are one of the best ways to view the city when you are not on foot exploring in the Medina.

Koutoubia Mosque: This is the city’s main landmark and the 69 metre high minaret towers over the labyrinth of streets and markets in the Medina. The red stone mosque was first built in 1147 but it was knocked down and rebuilt in 1199 because it was had not been built correctly aligned with Mecca. The mosque is large enough for thousands to pray in.

Dar Si Saïd Museum: The Museum is housed in a palace on the Riad Ezzitoun El Jadid and shows the arts, crafts and culture of the Berber people, including displays of some Moorish cedar wood furniture, elaborate door and window frames and artefacts from every day life in the Sahara desert. Open 8.30-11.45 and 2.30-5.45 except Tuesdays. Admission Dh20

Saadian Tombs: Built in the late 16th century, this beautiful necropolis has 66 lavishly decorated indoor tombs. The central mausoleum has a high vaulted roof which is exceptionally ornate, including carved cedar panels and Italian marble columns. Open 9.00-11.45 and 2.30-5.50 except Tuesdays. Admission Dh15

Around Marrakesh

Oukaimeden: A ski resort in the desert with camels instead of ski lifts! Yes, thick snow envelops the Jabal Oukaimeden mountain peak during the winter months (usually January and February) and it is just a 46-mile (74km) drive from Marrakech. The town can be reached by taxi or car and is well equipped for skiers seeking restaurants, ski equipment hire, and comfortable hotels within a stunning alpine setting.

Ouirgane: A village in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains about 1 ½ hour’s drive from Marrakesh. It is a popular place to visit, where summers are cooler and winters are less harsh. The Berber villages are enchanting whilst set in forests with wild flowers, including the famous rose gardens, fruit trees and streams cascading from the High Atlas.

Essaouira: This popular resort town dates from the 18th century, and is easily reached by bus from Marrakech. The town is surrounded by a fortified wall and faces the sea. The beach is a wide, stunning stretch with pretty whitewashed houses, boat-builders’ workshops and art galleries. Visitors come for the laid-back atmosphere and the high wind that makes it a very popular centre for wind- and kite-surfing.

Essaouira is also famous for its wood carving tradition, mainly using local, fragrant Thuya wood. The harbour is a hive of activity at all times, particularly during the daily fish auction, attracting as many onlookers as buyers and sellers.

Agadir: Is a major seaside resort south of Marrakech. It is new and modern with magnificent sandy beaches. Its “newness” is largely due to an uncharacteristic earthquake that shook the town in 1961, and it has now been re-modelled as a popular package holiday destination as well as a major fishing port. Agadir boasts 300 days of sunshine and a huge supply of hotel beds, reputedly a quarter of the total in Morocco. But be warned you may find the locals outnumbered by tourists.

Rabat

Morocco’s capital city is characteristically modern with wide, conservative boulevards, gardens and large blocks of flats. The king lives here in a beautiful palace surrounded by trees and flowers.

Despite having a rich history dating back to 7th century, Rabat is a far cry from the magical backstreets of Fez or the hubub of Marrakech. However the old part of the city has a Medina and a Kasbah.

Rabat is located on the Atlantic coastal plain, opposite its twin city of Sale, and it is near some beautiful sandy beaches.

For those who enjoy chasing around a little white ball, Rabat’s Dar Es Salaam Golf Course is world-renowned.

Kasbah des Oudaïas: A Kasbah is a “village within a city” and is a good place to take in the sights of the city. It is guarded by the impressive arched gate built in 1195. The Palace and Andalucian gardens and the terrace gives beautiful views from the Kasbah mosque, over the river and sea. The Palace Museum and gardens date back to the 17th century. The museum houses Moroccan art such as Berber jewellery, costumes and carpets.

Citadel of Chellah: Located in the new town of Rabat, the ruins of Chellah, once a Roman port, provide interesting sightseeing. Just inside the gate are Roman ruins dating from 200 BC, which includes a forum, a temple and a craftsmens’ quarter.

Hassan Mosque: You will see the towering 50 metre minaret of the Hassan Mosque from many parts of the city. Each façade of the minaret is intricately patterned with different motifs on each face.

Mausoleum of Mohammed V: The mausoleum was inaugurated in 1967. Located opposite the Hassan Mosque, it is one of the great monuments of modern Morocco. The deceased king lies in a white onyx tomb, surrounded by royal guards, while and hundreds of Moroccans pay homage each day.

The Medina: This medina was created by Muslim Andalucian refugees from Badajoz, Spain. It was essentially the first “seed” of the city until the arrival of the French in 1912 who began creating the new town. Not on the scale of Fez, but you certainly won't get lost!

Archeology Museum: Here you can find a collection of Roman bronze figures, dating from the first and second centuries and recovered from Volubilis. Also other artifacts from Phoenician, Carthagian and Roman settlements throughout Morocco are to be viewed here. Open 9.00-11.30 and 2.30-5.30, closed Tuesdays.

Casablanca: This is a huge, busy European style port city and has attracted much immigration from the Moroccan countryside. People are modern with little sign of traditional dress or modesty. The old town is small but similar to all the other bazaars found in Morocco.

Photo credit: Zany
The impressive Hassan ll Mosque is the 3rd largest religious monument in the World, with fantastic views over the Atlantic Ocean. This is one of the few mosques that non-Moslems may enter - and it is worth it. One of the great buildings of the world.

Temara: Lies on the coast, some 13Km from Rabat. It is a favourite weekend spot for city dwellers. Temara has a sandy beach, along with many hotels, nightclubs, restaurants, a zoo and other leisure facilities to entertain visitors.

Tangier

Tangier was once a playground for the rich and famous seeking a fashionable café culture as well as a tax haven. When Spain relinquished Tangier back to Morocco in 1960, its duty-free status went with it, along with the fashionable crowd. The decayed grandeur of today still has much to offer and slowly Tangier is regaining its splendor as an attractive tourist destination.

Grand Socco: Socco means Souk in Spanish and it is named so due to its Spanish heritage. A Souk is a market to us and is an interesting place to watch passing Rif people in colourful costumes selling vegetables and fresh mint. It begins at a busting square and the medina is entered from the square, through a large arched entrance.

Kasbah: dates back to the 17th century and it is interesting to wonder through its little alleyways, patios and hidden terraces. The Kasbah Mosque boasts an unusual octagonal minaret.

Sultan’s Gardens, Rue Riad Sultan, just north of the Kasbah Mosque, are a pleasant place to visit and watch the local craftsmen at work while sipping mint tea and enjoying views across the Straits of Gibraltar to Tarifa on the Spanish coast, only 14.5 Km away.

Dar el Makhzen: This is a 17th century palace containing and impressive collection of art from all regions of Morocco.

Forbes Museum: This is located in the Marshan Villa district, about 20 minutes walk from the medina. The museum is the former palace of United States multi-millionaire and media magnate, Malcolm Forbes. The house is open to the public and houses Forbes’ collection of 8,000 miniature soldiers!

Chefchaouen

Chefchaouen was first settled by Spanish Muslim refugees in the middle-ages and has retained its distinctive Spanish character. It is just an hour’s drive from Tangier in the Rif mountains.


The medina is beautiful and bustling with craftsmen working diligently and tradesmen selling the usual fare of carpets, leather goods, pottery and copper utensils. The Great Mosque, in the middle of the medina dates to the 17th century sits on a picturesque square with restaurants and cafes.

Asilah

Located south of Tangier, Asilah is a very poplular seaside resort, famous for its nearby Paradise Beach. Paradise Beach is a short taxi or a fun horse and cart ride from the village and is famous for its enormous expanse of unspoilt white, sandy beach.

Despite growing numbers of visitors, Asilah has retained its relaxing atmosphere. Asilah is known as the Artists’ Village and here you can find many locally painted canvases adorning the souks of its 15th century medina. The town is small enough to explore on foot or by donkey cart and is renowned for its great seafood restaurants.

In Conclusion - whatever you do on your trip make certain you get to meet the Moroccan people. They are warm, hospitable and will make you feel welcome.

Yoga in the Fez Medina

Feel like a bit of toning, stretching and relaxation? While yoga classes in Fez are not easy to find, The View from Fez reports on the sessions held at Cafe Clock.

Leonora Vero (known as Nora) is a yoga teacher from the UK who now lives in the Fez medina. She is a trained Ashtanga Vinyasa teacher who studied under well-known yogi, Godfrey Devereux, and also spent time in a Kerala ashram learning the Sivananda Vedanta techniques.

"We combine a few breathing exercises, sun salutations, sequence postures and balances, and end with some relaxation," says Nora. "The aim is for participants to have fun, stretch out, try some new asanas (yoga positions), tone up, detox, build strength, lose weight and enjoy themselves."

Classes are given from 10h30 to noon every Tuesday, Thursday and Friday on the terrace at Cafe Clock in Derb Margana off Tala'a Kebira, opposite the Bouanania Medersa. There's a canopy to keep the sun off, and the classes cost Dh50. You don't have to be an expert - all levels are welcome and mats are provided.

An inverted yoga posture at The Clock

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Moroccan News Briefs - Air crash kills four

Moroccan News Briefs.

Four killed in aircraft crash.

Four people died on Monday after the small aircraft they were flying in crashed near Casablanca on a flight from Tangier. According to Gendarmerie Royale, the pilot is thought to have lost control of the aircraft one kilometre before it was supposed to land at the airstrip of the flying club of Tit Mellil.

The aircraft, which came from Portugal, had stopped in Tangier before heading to Casablanca.

The victims, two Portuguese nationals, a French citizen and a Moroccan, died at the scene. An investigation was launched to establish the circumstances of the accident.


'Bamun Love' opens Khouribga African Film Festival

The twelfth African Film Festival of Khouribga kicked off on Sunday with the screening of Cameroonian Daniel Kamwa's movie, "Bamun Love" - originally titled Ma Sâsâ (Mâh Saah-sah).

The View from Fez says:

Bamun Love takes place in a Bamun village, in Cameroon. Ncharé is only 16 when his father passes away. He is taken in then by his uncle Achirou, and lands in a new village where on his arrival, he crosses the glance of a 14-year-old girl named Mapon. That was the beginning of their mutual love.

Today an adult and a sculptor on bronze, Ncharé wants to deserve to be the official fiancé of Mapon, but some persistent rumours have it that he might not yet be circumcised. And he has to compete with the other pretenders during the periodic rite of the dance of seduction, under eye witnesses of all the villagers, and in the presence of Nji-Mâh'Nkam, the High Dignitary of the village. It is a delightful film, full of surprises.

Ma Sâsâ

Eleven other feature movies, representing nine African countries, Senegal, Ethiopia, Burkina Faso, Guinea, Mali, Cameroon, Tunisia, Egypt and Morocco, will compete in the festival, scheduled to run from July 18 to 28.

The jury, chaired by Mauritanian film director Abderrahmane Sissako, also includes Nadia Al Fani (Tunisia), Lydie Diakhaté (France), Leocata Salvador (Belgium), Mano Rioual (India), Latifa Ahrar and Yassin Adnana (Morocco).

The event, held by the African Cinema Festival Foundation, is meant to celebrate different African cultures. It also aims to make Khouribga a center for African cinema. Khouribga is 205km south of Rabat.

Forest fire destroys 942 ha northern Morocco

In the latest news the figures have been increased to a total of 942 hectares destroyed by the 193 forest fires that have broken out so far in Morocco, according to the Interior Ministry.

One hundred twenty hectares were destroyed by the forest fire that broke out on Friday and continued to burn on through Saturday in the rural commune of Arekman, 40 Km east of Nador.

Firefighters along with the Gendarmerie Royale (rural police) and the forest protection services managed to partially contain the fire that spread over 4700 m2.

Fire containment was not plain sailing due to the wind and the difficult terrain in the area.


Three new swine flu cases confirmed in Morocco

Three patients out of a group of seven tested on Sunday, proved positive to the A/H1N1 flu virus.,

According to the Health Ministry, the first two cases involve a 12-year-old Moroccan boy and a 6-year-old girl both returning from the United Kingdom and hospitalized in Casablanca and Rabat respectively. The third infected person is a 41-year-old women who came from Canada and was also admitted to a hospital in Rabat.

This brings the flu toll to 31 cases, 23 of whom are reported to have made a full recovery.

The remaining eight patients are being treated for the disease without showing any serious symptoms.

Fez hit by heatwave and then storm.

Fez sweltered under 42 degrees Celsius today. Thankfully the temperature did not get to the expected 46 degrees. However two more hot days are promised.

Just before six in the evening the heat was broken by a severe thunderstorm that sent down some much needed heavy rain.

Tomorrow's forecast has now been downgraded to only 40 degrees. Have a nice day!


Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Moroccan hospitality?

If you have an early flight out of Casablanca, or arrive in the country late at night, it makes sense to stay at a hotel conveniently situated at the airport. With a new Atlas Hotel about to be built in Fez, The View from Fez has been looking into the performance of the Atlas Hotel at Casa's Mohamed V airport. Helen Ranger reports.

The three-star Atlas Hotel at Mohamed V airport, Casablanca

The Atlas Hotel is the only one at Casablanca airport. While the hotel group's own website has no description of Atlas hotels situated in Agadir, Ifrane, Marrakech as well as at the airport, you can book through asia.com where the blurb states "Atlas Airport Hotel in Casablanca has opulent guestrooms that have all the amenities that are found in any three star hotel. The in-room amenities include mini bar, satellite television, international direct dial telephone, hair dryers, writing tables and many others. All the rooms have cozy beds featuring soft pillows and blankets. This modern hotel offers a homely atmosphere. The rooms are spacious and are decorated with carpets, rugs and curtains made from fine fabric. The serene ambience of the rooms make it the ultimate comfort zone where you would like to retreat after a long day.

Every room has an attached bathroom with modern bath amenities. Luxury toiletries are found in the bathrooms. The ensuite bathrooms are regularly cleaned by the hotel staff keeping in mind the hygienic factor."

All well and good, until you read the reviews. Mr Hayes from the UK stayed there in February, and wrote:

"The room was filthy. The hotel staff were unhelpful and rude. The lunch buffet was a joke. I would not feed my dog the food they served ... Needless to say, I will never travel through Morocco again for business or any other reason!!!"

Sarah Reynolds of the US echoed these thoughts with:

"It was absolutely filthy. One of the worst rooms I have ever stayed in. They have not cleaned the bathroom floors or shower in years. They didn't even have a towel in the bathroom. Everything was broken, I was sure we would come home with bugs in our bags. It has fancy photos and high price tag, but if at all possible, do not stay at this hotel."

Mr Compen from the Netherlands was blunter. "Warning: don't stay here!"

The View from Fez checked out the hotel on Tripadvisor too, where reviews range from praising the shuttle bus to the airport to complaints about high prices and "Bad service, lousy food, worst beds, snotty workers, the only reason to stay would be because it is close to the airport. They have amenities, but not always available. The food in the restaurant is lousy and the waitstaff are terrible. You pay too much for crap. Avoid if at all possible".

Now while you can't always rely on sites like Tripadvisor as they can be manipulated, there are enough bad reviews on both of these sites to convince us to stay in downtown Casablanca, even if it means getting up before dawn to take an early train shuttle to the airport.

New Atlas Hotel in Fez

What is of great concern here is the new Atlas hotel that's being built on the approach road to the medina of Fez. Will this government-run hotel be as bad as the one in Casa? How do such appalling standards reflect on the country's ambitious plans for an increase in tourism to 10 million visitors by 2010?

Moroccans are justly famous for their hospitality - come on, Atlas, wake up and provide the kind of food and service that weary travellers need!

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Swimming or melting in the Fez Medina.

When the hot weather arrives in Fez, it does so with a vengeance. This week the temperatures are expected to top 40 degrees Celsius and shop vendors, tradespeople and tourists alike are seeking shade and options for cooling down.

Suddenly the fountain looks inviting

Fans and air conditioners are not available for everyone and for many locals that means a trip to the municipal pool. For others, lucky enough to have a fountain, some relief can be gained by a little gentle immersion.

Riad Alkantara's pool

The folk at Riad Alkantara are only too familiar with how cooling a dip in a pool can be and have decided to open their magnificent facility to the public. To announce this and to draw attention to an other innovation - a new bar - they held a pool party.

Likely local lads salivating

The new bar will be managed by Pippa Smith. Pippa, originally from Norwich in the UK has been living and working in Dublin, but now calls Fez home. Being gregarious and super-efficient makes her a perfect person for the position.

So next time the heat is getting to you, remember there is now another alternative to jumping into fountains... mind you, swimming from end to the other does take longer.

Pippa and the new club style bar.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

International Volubilis Festival

Today is the second day of the five day festival where history and music blend together. Musicians from around the world have arrived at the Roman town to take part in the 10th Intenational Volubilis Festival.

The lineup includes artists such as Carlo Aetis Dato Quartet (Italy), Kadi Diara (Burkina Faso), Lashkari group (Georgia), Eva Manzono group (spain), Les Doigts de l'Homme (France) and NMB Brass Band Funk Hip-Hop (USA), in addition to Saudi band of popular arts, Al-Quds band (Palestine) and a myriad of Moroccan artists who will share the stages of this event.

It will be an opportunity for singers and music fans to discover the Roman town, which was proclaimed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997. In antiquity, Volubilis was an important Roman town situated near the western border of Roman conquests. It was built on the site of a previous Carthaginian settlement from (at the latest) the third century BC, but that settlement overlies an earlier Neolithic habitation.

Volubilis regained fame when Martin Scorsese made it a feature location for his film, The Last Temptation of Christ, shot in 1988.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Dutch treats - Air Arabia flies to Casablanca

AVIAREPS, the leading international representation company, has announced that it will handle all future sales, marketing and ticketing activities for Air Arabia (Maroc) out of its headquarters based in Munich. The two companies have recently signed a GSA agreement for the German market effective from 1 July 2009.

Air Arabia (Maroc)’s first flight out of the Netherlands to Casablanca (Morocco) will take off from Amsterdam’s Schiphol airport on 3 August 2009. This route will initially be operated three times a week (Monday, Thursday and Saturday). On 24 August 2009, a fourth frequency - on Tuesday - will be added to this connection. Air Arabia will be deploying brand new Airbus A320s in one class configuration for these flights from/to the Netherlands. Ticket reservations can be made by phoning the German call centre on +49 89 552 533-45 or by making the booking online at www.airarabia.com.

Air Arabia (Maroc), a joint venture company and member of the Air Arabia Group, is Morocco’s new low-cost carrier based at Mohamed V Airport, Casablanca. ?The airline was launched on 29 April 2009 and currently operates direct flights from its base in Casablanca to seven European cities: Milan, Paris, Lyon, Marseille, Brussels, London and Barcelona.

Air Arabia (Maroc) focuses on offering customers comfort, reliability and value-for-money air travel from and to the Moroccan city of Casablanca. The carrier operates a fleet of three brand-new Airbus A320 aircraft offering its passengers the best economy configuration with 31-inch seat pitch, the highest of any economy cabin on the market.

Through Air Arabia’s main base at Sharjah International Airport, UAE, and its new hub at Mohamed V Airport in Casablanca, following the launch of Air Arabia (Maroc) customers now have the opportunity to benefit from real value-for-money air travel across the Middle East, North Africa, the Indian subcontinent, CIS and Europe.


Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

The dynamics of women in Morocco

A new book, Gendering Religion and Politics, features a paper entitled 'Language, Gender and Power in Morocco' written by Fatima Sadiqi.

The book is edited by Hanna Herzog and Ann Braude of Harvard University, and is published by Palgrave Macmillan (July 2009).

Fatima is Professor of Linguistics and Gender Studies, Director of the Isis Centre for Women and Development, and a UN consultant. She is also known for her sterling work as Director General of the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music. She has this to say about her contribution to the book:

'This paper considers the complex interaction between language, gender and power centers, especially religion and politics, in Morocco. The argument I make is that languages in Morocco are tied to the social positions of women in relation to power centers, that women are learning the power of language and that they, according to their differentiated resources, manipulate it to their advantage. My main emphasis is on (i) the origins of multilingualism in Morocco, which stems from its religio-political history; and, as a result, (ii) women's strategies and possible gains. On the basis of this argument and emphasis, I seek to highlight the fact that in Morocco language dynamics impact the triangle of women-religion-politics in significant ways.'

Fatima's website is www.fatimasadiqi.on.ma

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Moroccan party demands strike in Marrakech mayor row

The first female mayor of Morocco's key tourist destination Marrakech lost her seat after a court ruling that has outraged her party and prompted calls on Wednesday for a stike to protest the decision.

"Her election reflects the image of modern Morocco" - secretary general of PAM, Cheikh Mohamed Biyadillah

On Monday a Moroccan administrative court ordered the cancellation of the vote that elected Fatima Zahra Mansouri, a 33-year-old lawyer, as the first female mayor of Marrakech, after ruling the vote in the city’s Menara district was fixed.

The court found that some ballots were distributed before the legal date and some vote records were destroyed.

The probe into the vote began after an opposing candidate from the Front of Democratic Forces’ party filed a complaint about irregularities in the election.

Following the court’s decision Mansouri lost her seat on the municipal council and would be unable to assume the position of mayor of Marrakech.

Call for 48 hour strike.

Mansouri's Party for Authenticity and Modernity (PAM), which swept the local elections last month, said in a statement that the 48-hour strike had been called to "protest the plot against the democratic process."

Mansouri's selection as mayor in a municipal council vote on June 22 was only the second time a woman has taken a mayoral position in the North African kingdom. Mansouri studied law in France, and is a daughter of a former assistant to the local authority chief in Marrakesh, which has a population of more than one million.

"Her election reflects the image of a modern Morocco," the secretary general of PAM, Cheikh Mohamed Biyadillah, said at the time.


Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

A Pool Party in the Fez Medina!

Riad Alkantara is opening its garden and swimming pool next Saturday July 18th from 19:30 for a barbecue party for only 150 dirhams. It is an opportunity for everyone to meet new friends. Don’t forget to bring your swimsuit! Towels will be provided.

Riad Alkantara ouvre son jardin et sa piscine aux amis qui veulent rencontrer d’autres amis le 18 Juillet à partir de 19 :30 pour seulement 150 dirhams. Un délicieux buffet vous attend au bord de la piscine. N’oubliez pas vos maillots de bain ! Les serviettes de bain seront mises à votre disposition.

Riad Alkantara inaugura su jardín y piscina el próximo Sábado 18 de Julio a partir de las 19:30 con una deliciosa barbacoa por solo 150 dirhams. Una estupenda oportunidad para conocer gente nueva. No os olvidéis el bañador ! No hace falta traer toalla.



Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Fez - Makes the Top World Tourist Cities List

For the first time Fez has made it on to the list of the world's best tourist cities.

Each year Travel + Leisure Magazine publishes the results of its surveys into airlines, cities, hotels and resorts. This year Fez was ranked the 15th best tourist destination in the world, thus surpassing London, Paris, Barcelona and Marrakech four popular destinations which did not even crack the top 20. Fez was #2 in Africa and the Middle East.

Readers ranked the Indian city of Udaipur as the most tourist-friendly destination. Nicknamed "the Venice of the East" due to its canals and palaces, Udaipur unseated Bangkok as the top tourist city. The Thai capital finished third in the poll by the magazines's online readers. The second best tourist city chosen was Cape Town, South Africa.

Top 10 Cities Africa and the Middle East
RANK NAME SCORE

1 Cape Town 87.69
2 Fez 83.82
3 Jerusalem 83.23
4 Marrakesh 82.05
5 Cairo 77.32
6 Essaouira 77.12
7 Tel Aviv 75.96
8 Rabat 73.05
9 Amman 70.69
10 Tunis 70.12

Morocco was also recently named Africa's tourism destination of the year at the annual African Business Awards.

The country was recognised for the innovation it has shown in promoting its tourism industry with initiatives such as its Vision 2010 strategy, which aims to attract some 10m visitors to Morocco by 2010.

As part of the project, six new purpose-built resorts are set to be opened across the country, providing tens of thousands of extra beds for holidaymakers.

The first new property, Mediterrania-Saidia, opened last month, while Mazagan, which is being developed by Sol Kerzner in El Jadida, will begin welcoming guests in October.

Commenting on the award win, Ali El Kasmi, director of the Moroccan tourist board in the UK, said: 'We are delighted to have won such an accolade. Morocco offers a quality product and a cultural destination full of energy, mysticism and spice.'


Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

How many streets are in the Fez Medina?

They warned us a thousand times as we entered the ancient medina in Fez: do not take your eyes off the rest of the group. Otherwise, a 9th-century maze of 12,000 lanes, alleyways and dead-end streets would swallow us up, and no one - not even our omnipresent, all-knowing tour guides - would know where to find us. - Sarah Maguire, Sydney Morning Herald

Photo: Suzanna Clarke

"There are more than 9000 narrow streets in old Fes creating a maize that you are bound to get totally lost in. It's useful to get a guide at least for a day." - About.com

"Fes el Bali contains more than 9500 alleys and lanes" - Frommer's Morocco

"Classé au patrimoine mondial de l'Unesco, Fès el Bali regorge de monuments et de lieux historiques éparpillés dans les 9500 ruelles de la médina." - linternaute.com

How many streets and alleyways are there in the Fez Medina? It is an interesting question that does not appear to have a definitive answer. The most quoted numbers in the better guide books are 9000 and 9500 but could it simply be an urban myth that has turned into fact by repetition?

Photo: Suzanna Clarke

Does it matter? Well, that is up to you to decide. In the meantime, your challange to day, should you choose to accept it, is to go out into the Medina and start counting. Get back to us when you have completed the task.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Swimming to Morocco!

Among mountaineers there exists a supreme challenge - the Seven Summits - which entails successfully scaling the highest mountains in each of the seven continents.

However, if you prefer your challenges at sea level, there is the "Ocean's Seven". It appears that nobody has yet completed the seven open water crossings and when you look at the list it is easy to see why.

The "seven" are: the Irish Channel between Ireland and Scotland, Cook Strait between the North and South Islands of New Zealand, the Moloka’i Channel between O’ahu and Moloka’i Islands in Hawaii, the English Channel between England and France, the Catalina Channel in Southern California, the Tsugaru Channel between the islands of Honshu and Hokkaido in Japan, and the Strait of Gibraltar between Europe and Africa. It is this last one that particularly interests us.

Recently we posted a story about the ferry service between Spain and Morocco, but if you are fit, resolute and have very little luggage, you might like to attempt the swim.

According to 10K Swimmer.com Tom Hecker from Carmel Valley, California crossed the Strait of Gibraltar in 3 hours, 40 minutes back in 2006. There are ferry services that are slower!

Again according 10K Swimmer.com the shortest journey across the Strait of Gibraltar is between Punta Oliveros in Spain and Punta Cires in Morocco. Most attempts are made from Tarifa Island due to the influence of strong currents, a distance of 18.5-22K (10-12 miles)

However, it is not simply a matter of strapping on your floaties, goggles and flippers. The route is 14.4K (8 miles) across an eastern flow of water from the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea with an average of 3 knots (5.5 km per hour). Heavy boat traffic, logistical barriers and surface chop confront swimmers throughout each attempt.

The best time of year is June to October. There may still be high winds and unpredictable water conditions so it is understandable that only 185 successful one-way crossings and 7 double-crossings have been made to date. The first was by an English woman back in 1928. The most crossings by an individual stands at eight by Spaniard Pere Estatuet Llorens. The fastest time to date is 2 hours 36 minutes by Czech, David Cech.

By this stage in our research The View from Fez team were packing their swimming costumes and heading for the Med.

Then we discovered the THE GIBRALTAR STRAIT SWIMMING ASSOCIATION. Yes, we kid you not, it exists.

To quote from their website: The Association is engaged to carry out all the bureaucratic procedures for the Spanish and Moroccan Maritime Administrations, as well as to arrange, by means of payment of the corresponding expenses, the human and material means legally demanded for the development of the event. At the end of this, The Association will facilitate the necessary documentation that certifies the achievement of the objectives and will proceed to include the swimmer in the official list of those swimmers who have crosses the Gibraltar Strait in its different categories. Impressive.

Oh... and don't forget your passport as the Moroccans will check!

We are in debt to one of our readers for this amazing bit of synchronicity: Jalil Mounir Belcaid was the 1st Moroccan swimmer to swim across to Spain in 3 hours & 45 minutes and he did so yesterday, the 10th of July!

For more details on how to register for a swim to Morocco go to http://www.acneg.com/index.html

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Moroccan Press Protest with Blank Editorials.

Twenty Moroccan dailies and weeklies were released without editorial Friday in protest against the recent court decisions handed down against three Arabic newspapers and a monthly economic francophone magazine, convicted of defamation.


The daily Annahar El-Maghribiya, El-Jarida El-Oula, El-Mounaataf, Ettajdid, El-Ahdath El-Maghribiya, Akhbar El-Yaoum, El-Massae, Aujourd'hui le Maroc and Le Soir, and the weekly El-Ousbouâ, El-Ayam, El-Michaal, El-Hayat, Nichan, El Watan, Le Canard Libéré, Le Journal Hebdomadaire and Tel Quel came out on Friday without editorial.

The dailies will repeat the operation today.

Three Moroccan independent newspapers accused of “defamation” by Libyan leader Muammar Gaddafi, were sentenced by a Moroccan court to pay three million Dirhams (270,000 Euros) in damages on 29 June

The three newspapers El-Jarida El-Oula, El-Ahdat El-Maghribia and El-Massae were prosecuted in separate folders for criticizing Muammar Gaddafi in press articles.

On 30 June, the monthly Business & Enterprise has been ordered to pay 5.9 million Dirhams (approx. 550,000 Euros) to a furniture company, Primarios, near the royal palace as part of a complaint for defamation.

The Moroccan Federation of Newspaper Publishers (FMEJ) Tuesday strongly denounced a “judicial blind escalation which does not serve the state of law.”

According to the FMEJ, “the importance of fines required clearly shows that the objective is the bankruptcy of these press companies.”

In a statement, the FMEJ said it strongly condemned this judicial blind escalation which does not serve the state of law and also denounces the existence of a repressive and criminal policy which violates the freedom of expression.”


Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Spain to Morocco by Ferry

One of the quickest and cheapest ways of getting from mainland Europe to Morocco is by ferry. Travel times are from several hours to as little as 35 minutes, but faster travel by catamaran is much more expensive.

Approximate Travel times.

Tarifa to Tangier by FRS, approximately 35 minutes
Algeciras to Tangier by FRS, 70 minutes
Algeciras to Tangier by Acciona, 2.5 hrs
Algeciras to Cueta with Acciona 35 minutes by fast ferry. Normal ferry 1.5hrs
Algeciras to Ceuta by Euroferrys (catamaran) 35minutes.
Malaga to Melilla with Acciona approximately 7 hrs .

The services between Algeciras and Tangier run eight times a day, from Ceuta, ten times.

Prices vary, but are all reasonable. For example, Algeciras to Tanger is from 46 €, Almeria to Nador from 50 € and Almeria to Melilla from 33 €.

You can book and pay on line at FRS who have special deals and also at Maroc Ferry.com. You will find a links at the bottom of this post. The sites are in English, French and Dutch.

Ferry routes

While there are many possible routes, here are some examples of departure times.

ALGECIRAS TO TANGIER
Departure at 06h30 - Arrival at 07h00
Departure at 07h00 - Arrival at 08h30
Departure at 09h30 - Arrival at 11h00
Departure at 11h30 - Arrival at 12h00
Departure at 15h30 - Arrival at 17h00
Departure at 16h30 - Arrival at 17h00
Departure at 18h00 - Arrival at 19h30
Departure at 21h25 - Arrival at 22h00

CEUTA TO ALGECIRAS
Departure at 07h30 - Arrival at 08h15
Departure at 09h30 - Arrival at 10h15
Departure at 10h30 - Arrival at 11h15
Departure at 12h30 - Arrival at 13h15
Departure at 13h30 - Arrival at 14h15
Departure at 15h30 - Arrival at 16h15
Departure at 16h30 - Arrival at 17h15
Departure at 18h30 - Arrival at 19h15
Departure at 19h30 - Arrival at 20h15
Departure at 22h30 - Arrival at 23h15

More info: FRS WEBSITE

Maroc Ferry dot Com

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news